An electric kettle burns but does not warm

Repair of electric kettles

Good afternoon dear readers! Electricians have firmly entered our life with you and are one of the main apparatus in the kitchen. Modern electric teapots have a diverse shape. Their housing can be made both of stainless steel and from heat.Resistant plastic.

electric, kettle, burns, does, warm

Most electric kettles when boiling water are turned off automatically, there are outdated models with manual shutdown. Consider the principle of operation and repair of electric kettles with your own hands.

And so the water heats up in the kettle with the help of a heating element. It is attached to the case with a threaded sleeve, or metal nuts, or screws that press it to the waterproof base. In different models they are washers, gaskets or bushings. Due to their damage, water leaks often occur.

The most widespread teapots with a disk heating element. When boiling water, steam through a small hole enters the bimetallic plate, which bends and affects the electric kettle switch.

Many teapots have a special protection that will turn it off when water boiling or if it is forgotten to pour water into it before turning on. In order to control the water level in the teapots, special indicators of water level are provided.

The heater is connected to the network using a flexible cord or wire equipped with a block of connector, and with another fork. In the unstable teapots, the power connector block is located on the stand, which is connected to the network using the cord. Such a kettle can be taken without disconnecting it from the network.

For the durable operation of the kettle and safe operation, it must be correctly filled with water. Before pouring it with water, turn off first of all the plug from the network. Be sure to remove from the stand.

If you do not want to pour complete the kettle, pour water into it due to that the water completely covers the heating element. Pour no less than a glass of water into a kettle with a disk heater. With a lack of water, the heating element can burn out, or the protection against overheating will work.

Overflow the kettle is also strictly prohibited. This can cause burns when boiling water, as the water will splash out of it. And now we will directly consider the malfunctions of our favorite electric ketters.

There are extraneous particles in boiling water.

The appearance of extraneous particles in the boiling water is caused by damage to the mesh filter. It is installed in the vast majority of teapots and is designed to filter water from scale particles. Remove and inspect the filter. If it is damaged or scored, replace with a new.

The kettle cover is poorly closed. As a result, pairs do not fully affect the bimetallic plate. As a result, the plate cannot turn off the switch. After filling the kettle, always close the lid tightly.

Why does a thermopot boil water: the causes of the breakdown and repair with your own hands, this increases the electrical safety of the structure, since the reduction transformer is used, which serves at the same time galvanic denouement from the mains. Ask, I’m in touch!

The electric kettle does not turn on? Causes of breakdowns and methods of elimination

The electric kettle today is very popular. It can be found not only in home kitchen, but also in offices and various production bases. The device allows you to boil water for coffee or tea in a short time. But any even the most reliable and high.Quality electric kettle can sooner or later fail. It is very important in this case to correctly establish the cause of the breakdown, which led to the fact that the electric kettle does not turn on.

Before proceeding with independent repair, you must first understand the principles of technology work. Despite the fact that today a huge number of various models of teapots are presented, they work almost all according to the same scheme.

The equipment is connected to the power supply through the wire. The voltage to electric kettle comes from the outlet. The kettle itself is placed on a massive platform, on which there are special KR1 contacts. There is a special connector at the bottom of the kettle, through which the thermostat is interacted with the contact group.

Electric kettle included in the outlet

Each electric kettle is also equipped with a SA1 thermal switch. It can turn off the device in manual or automatic mode after boiling water occurs. In order to ensure the safety of the device, a special switch for thermal protection is installed in it. It should always be in working condition, and if you turn on the kettle without water, automatically turn off the device in order to prevent it from overheating.

After the kettle is connected to the power supply, the current will move towards the tubular heating element. The fact that the equipment is in working mode will indicate a special light indicator. On different equipment models, it can be on the body of the kettle or on the platform.

Important: as soon as the water boils, the light turns off. This happens as a result of the fact that the steam begins to gather between the water and the lid of the kettle, that is, in the free space.

Then it enters the special channel to the bimetallic plate. It is made of 2 different types of metal, so after heating occurs, the plate with contacts begins to bend, which leads to the opening of contacts. As a result of this, the electric kettle is turned off. This is the correct operation of the equipment.

Reasons why the kettle is not turned on, and ways to eliminate them

But there are several common reasons, because of which the device does not automatically turn off after the water boils. These include:

    The lid of the electric kettle is not fully closed. That is, a large gap remains between it and the body. It is quite simple to solve this problem: for this, you should always carefully check how tightly the details are adjacent to each other.

In addition, automatic protection against boiling could work in electric kettle. As a result of this, any attempts to turn on the device will not be able to crown up success. Typically, this option works in automatic mode in the following situations:

Disconnecting this function will not be difficult. To do this, you need to remove the kettle from the stand and collect water into it. When the device is installed back on the platform, it will be able to resume the war in the usual mode.

Important: when the kettle is not turned on, what to do in this case, everyone wants to know. In some cases, the equipment can be fixed independently, subject to certain rules and safety precautions. But before starting the repair, it is necessary to correctly establish the cause of the breakdown in order to know what to do.

Why does the electric kettle turn off after the water has boiled?

One of the most common defects in the operation of the device is that it is disconnected premature. The equipment is not able to bring water to a boil. As a result of this, the owners begin to think that the kettle has finally deteriorated and is not subject to restoration. Before you throw out the equipment, it is necessary to understand the reasons that lead to the fact that the electric kettle does not turn on or is constantly turning off. Among them:

    Bimetallic plate malfunction. Since the metal from which it is made is subjected to constant expansion and narrowing, after a while the plate will begin to deform, which will lead to the loss of its original properties. That is, the kettle does not warm the water and turns off even before its boil. Typically, this problem is observed in teapots that have worked for more than one year, or in poor.Quality Chinese models. You can eliminate the breakdown by bending the plate into the correct position. But this problem for a short time will again make itself felt, so the best solution will be to buy a new device. Replacing the bimetallic plate will cost very expensive.

You can disassemble an electric kettle on your own at home only to a person who is at least a little versed in an electrician. Otherwise, you can finally break the technique. If there are doubts about the correctness of their actions or the reasons for the breakdown are not clear, then it is best to take the equipment to the repair workshop. There, qualified experts will help to quickly find a breakdown and make every effort to eliminate it as soon as possible.

How an electric kettle works?

Before proceeding with independent repair, you must first understand the principles of technology work. Despite the fact that today a huge number of various models of teapots are presented, they work almost all according to the same scheme.

The equipment is connected to the power supply through the wire. The voltage to electric kettle comes from the outlet. The kettle itself is placed on a massive platform, on which there are special KR1 contacts. There is a special connector at the bottom of the kettle, through which the thermostat is interacted with the contact group.

Electric kettle included in the outlet

Each electric kettle is also equipped with a SA1 thermal switch. It can turn off the device in manual or automatic mode after boiling water occurs. In order to ensure the safety of the device, a special switch for thermal protection is installed in it. It should always be in working condition, and if you turn on the kettle without water, automatically turn off the device in order to prevent it from overheating.

After the kettle is connected to the power supply, the current will move towards the tubular heating element. The fact that the equipment is in working mode will indicate a special light indicator. On different equipment models, it can be on the body of the kettle or on the platform.

Important: as soon as the water boils, the light turns off. This happens as a result of the fact that the steam begins to gather between the water and the lid of the kettle, that is, in the free space.

Then it enters the special channel to the bimetallic plate. It is made of 2 different types of metal, so after heating occurs, the plate with contacts begins to bend, which leads to the opening of contacts. As a result of this, the electric kettle is turned off. This is the correct operation of the equipment.

DIY electric kettle repair: how to disassemble and eliminate the causes of breakdown

An electric kettle is a simple and inexpensive household device, which in the case of a breakdown is most often thrown away, acquiring a new new model in return for an old model. However, if the owner belongs to the category of “home craftsmen” who can independently repair small household appliances, then he can try to restore the operability of the kettle. After familiarizing yourself with the design and the principle of its work, making the repair of electric kettle with your own hands will not be difficult.

Modern electric ketters are assembled on the basis of one electrical circuit and differ from each other with an original design, power or volume. Over, they all constructively consist of two parts. The kettle itself and stands.

Design

Cabinet parts of the electric kettle are made from various materials:

The electric kettle is connected to the supply power supply when installed on a plastic stand, to which a network cord with a fork is brought up. The connection is carried out through a 3-contact group located inside the stand in such a way as to exclude the user’s defeat with an electric current. At the same time, the device removed from the stand is completely de.Energized.

In the body of the teapot, which is closed from above, the lid is installed:

  • Contact group for connecting with the response part of the stand;
  • Disk heater or open spiral (s or u-shaped);
  • Switch (thermostat);
  • LED indicator (can be mounted in a switch);
  • Automatic shutdown device with bimetallic contacts.
  • Additional filters that cleanse water from scale are made of stainless steel (Siemens TW60101) or nylon (Tefal BF2632 Vitesse);
  • An internal flask that does not contact with a kettle body, which is made of heat.Resistant glass or stainless steel and plays the role of a thermos;
  • Thermal relay, capable of maintaining a given water temperature in the range from 60 to 98 ° C for at least 4 hours (thermopot mode).

Important! Structurally, all the details that are under voltage during the operation are reliably protected from contact with water and exclude the possibility of random contact with them of the user.

Operating principle

The supply voltage from the AC network is supplied to the kettle when installing it on a stand through spring.Loaded contacts that are located in the center of its bottom. In the lower part of the case there is a heating element that heats the water when pressed on a switch, which can be located both in the upper and lower part of the kettle.

The connection diagram provides for the presence of a blocking device that protects the device from overheating. It consists of two contact pairs, which are connected to the heater. Each such pair consists of contact and a bimetallic plate (glued from two thin plates with different linear expansion coefficients), capable of bending in different directions when temperature changes.

The bimetallic plate of one pair is in contact directly with the body and provides the junction of the connection when it is overheated. In the normal position, this pair is constantly closed. It works only if a kettle without water is connected to the network.

The second pair of contacts provides a shutdown of the device from the mains when boiling water. This happens under the influence of a hot pair that affects the bimetallic plate. In this case, hot air is supplied through a special channel, as which the cavity of the handle is most often used. However, in some models, a separate tube of round or square section is installed for the supply of steam.

Repair of electric kettle

Despite the apparent simplicity of the design, the service life of the electric kettle is not eternal. Sooner or later comes the moment when, turning it on, the user discovers that the device has stopped working.

Frequent malfunctions

The list of frequently found faults and the causes of them are given in the table.

Ÿ The sealing elements have become unusable (in the presence of open.Type heating element).

Tip: Parts and components that have become worthless are not repaired, but are subject to replacement.

electric, kettle, burns, does, warm

When starting to repair, the kettle must be disassembled what is sometimes more difficult than fixing.

How to disassemble an electric kettle

Operations for disassembling the electric kettle and/or its stands are not difficult. To do this, it is enough to prepare only a set of screwdrivers: cross.Shaped, flat and possibly Spanne (double.Tooth fork).

Attention! Before proceeding to disassemble the electric kettle, you need to remove the plug of the network cord from the power outlet of the power supply network.

    Dismantling of the bottom cover of the electric kettle.They begin to disassemble the electric kettle by removing the lower cover (bottom). To do this, unscrew all the screws available there. Typically, the lower lid is attached with self.Supporting screws (self.Tapping screws) with a cross.Shaped head. However, sometimes you can find screws with a head under the screwdriver Spanne. So manufacturers of electric kettles are trying to protect the device from independent repair. In the absence of such a screwdriver, such screws can be carefully twisted with tweezers or lateral.

In addition, screw heads can be closed by decorative plugs that are easily removed with a sharp object. After all the screws are unscrewed, the lower cover should be easily removed. If this does not happen, then it is additionally fixed with plastic latches. They must be carefully squeezed, using a flat screwdriver for this. The lower lid of the stand is removed in a similar way.

Tip: Removing plastic parts of the handle must be very careful. They are fragile and can easily break.

The sequence of execution of operations to eliminate the reasons why the kettle stopped working is almost the same for all modern models. The order is as follows:

  • The stands and performance of the stand are convinced of the serviceability of the electrosnur;
  • Check whether the heater works;
  • Start checking the switch (thermostat).

Problems and ways to eliminate them

Possible causes of problems and methods of elimination are given below:

Often there is such an unpleasant situation as the exit of the teapot, and at the most inopportune moment. You can pass the failed electrical appliance for repairs, but it will take time. There may also not be free masters and you will have to do without a kettle even longer. Or, perhaps, the reason for the failure could be a petty, easily acceptable malfunction. Then it would be a pity to be thrown out for the repair of funds.

In general, why not try to carry out repairs yourself, while saving time and means? In this article, we give recommendations that will help determine the malfunction of the electric kettle and, if possible, eliminate it.

Electric circuit and principle of operation of electric kettle

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electric, kettle, burns, does, warm

Most electric kettles, regardless of their cost have a similar design. For clarity, we give a typical electrical circuit:

In order to find a malfunction of the electric kettle, it is necessary to understand the principle of its work. We will briefly describe the principle of operation according to the given scheme, showing clearly all the elements of the scheme. Electricity from a household network comes through a plug fork and a wire to a stand.

Further, the current goes from the stand to the kettle through the special contact part. Directly in the electric kettle, the ground conductor is connected to the metal parts of the electric kettle. Zero and phase conductors in a special node are displayed to terminals 1 and 2 (see. Scheme).

In the same node there is thermal protection. Thermallane. The electrical circuit shows that the thermallela is in the rupture of the phase conductor.

Thermal protection serves to protect the heater of the teapot from damage in the case of a teapot without water, or if the kettle cover is open, and it works for a long time without automatically. In normal mode, the contact of the thermallela is in a closed state. It opens in case of excessive overheating for the above reasons.

Further from the terminal 2, the voltage comes directly to the heating ground to the terminal 4, and from the terminal 1 to another terminal of the heater to terminals 3, but not directly, but through the button for turning on the kettle.

The teapot button allows you to manually turn on and turn off the kettle, it has a bimetallic plate, which when a certain temperature reaches the button, that is, when water boiling, this button automatically shut off the electric kettle.

In parallel to the terminals of the heater, an indicator lamp or backlight is connected. Depending on the design features of the electric kettle. It can be an ordinary lamp or LED backlight connected through the power driver.

So, we start searching for a malfunction. First of all, it is necessary to make sure that the reason for the non.Operational capacity of the kettle was not a trigger of the above thermal protection. If the operation was, then you need to wait until the defense returns to its original state. That is, until the contacts are closed. If there was no defense operation, we proceed to search for a malfunction.

Checking an electric kettle stand

Do not rush to disassemble the kettle. Very often the reason why the kettle does not warm is the lack of contact between the contact elements of the electric kettle and the stand or a violation of contact in the supply wire and fork.

Unscrew the screws on the stand and remove the lid. We take the multimeter, put in the call mode and check the integrity of the cord from the plug to the contacts. In inexpensive electric kettle, the manufacturer to save puts the cord with a cross section that is lower than the allowable electric kettle.

For example, for a 2 kW teapot, a supply wire with a cross section of 0.75 kV is installed. Mm, and in fact there may be even smaller section. During the operation of the electric kettle, such a wire heats up that it can ultimately lead to damage or firing at the place of connection to the fork.

If the call showed the wire break, then it is necessary to purchase a new wire of a larger section, which corresponds to the load of the kettle. For example, for 2 kW of a kettle, there will be enough wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 kV. Mm. It is also necessary to purchase a new fork. A Eurovilka designed for load 16 A is suitable.

Next, it is necessary to evaluate the state of the contact part of the stand. If traces of carbon monoxide are visible, this indicates a poor contact of the stand with the contact part of the electric kettle.

Regardless of whether this is the reason why the kettle does not work at the moment, you should clean the contacts from the carbon and bend them a little, ensuring the greater stiffness of the contact with the electric kettle.

You should put a stand on the kettle, while paying attention to the contacts. They should bend when installing the kettle on the stand. If the contact is not pressed, then it is glorified, and it must be slightly bent upward. Contacts cannot be much bend very much, so as not to shift them from the place.

Collect the stand and check the performance of the electric kettle. If the kettle still does not work, then we move directly to the search for a malfunction inside the electric kettle.

Checking the operability of Ten Electrochin

There may be a situation when the indicator light (backlight) of the teapot glows, and the kettle itself does not warm. In this case, there are two reasons. The heating site was burned out or the contact is violated at the place of connection to Ten. Remove the lid of the kettle, unscrewing several screws. Separate types of teapots, including those considered in this article, in addition to screws, have special grooves that hold the kettle cover.

Without the experience of opening electrical appliances, you can damage the electric kettle, adding another one to the existing malfunction. To remove the lid, you must cook it inside. Inserting the screwdriver into the available holes. First into the holes 1 and 2, then in 3 and 4. Bending the lid inward, the grooves of the cover of the lid come out and it is removed.

What is a thermal

Thermopotus is an electric kettle with a heat.Saving case and pump for supplying water and the function of maintaining a given temperature. That is, it is a combined household device that not only boils water, but also maintains its temperature at a given level.

Thermopote is a “cross between an electric teapot and a thermos with a pump

So, the functions of a thermopote. Warm up /boil water and maintain its temperature. To reduce the cost of maintaining temperature, the case is done with isolation. True, it is not vacuum, as in good modern thermos, but air. So there are still more losses than in the thermos. But this device is convenient where hot water is often needed.

This purpose is reflected in the names. Thermopote is transliteration from English Termo-Pot. Where Termo is translated as heating, and Pot is a pot or kettle. You can also find names such as heated thermos, electrothermos, kettle-termmos, kettle with temperature, thermal mushroom.

There are household thermopotes for 2-6 liters. There is also a larger water capacity, but they are usually used already in cafes, restaurants, are in offices, etc. D. To reduce the cost of maintaining water temperature, the case has two walls with an air gap. So even a two.Liter version has quite large sizes. To hold and turn it over to pour water is completely inconvenient. Therefore, thermopotes are supplied with pumps for supplying hot water.

The pump can be electrical or mechanical. Temperature regulator step or smooth. There are also models with electronic control (buttons or a mantry panel). In this case, there may be a remote control.

Principle of operation

Electric kettle device. Standard. Inside the removable case, a heating element with a power of up to 2 kW, a 2-3 liter flask and a thermostat are placed inside. Connection to the electric network provides a stand with a flexible cord. The difference between individual models is manifested in the type of heating element. A stainless steel or closed disk, as well as the location of the switch (below or at the top of the handle).

The electrical circuit of teapots works according to a single principle:

  • The network voltage is supplied to the contacts of the stand when the cord is included in the outlet;
  • Loaded contacts of the stands after installing the kettle on it are closed with the electrodes of the case;
  • After turning on the power button, the voltage is supplied to the disk or spiral heater in a kettle with a pass through the elements of thermal protection;
  • The bimetallic plate closes the circuit until the signal is received from the steam sensor.

An additional element of thermal protection is optional and absent in a number of models. It is introduced into the diagram to turn off the device during overheating risks and is triggered only in the absence of water in the device. In the working mode, the teapot should burn back, in the state off, all contacts, except for the spring.Loaded on the stand, open up.

The electric kettle does not turn on in the absence of a connection on any of the listed areas: loose adjustment of the cord or stand, opening contacts when trying to heat an empty device. In such cases, the backlight does not burn, but the device itself can be contact. If the kettle does not work after these reasons are excluded, the device needs to be diagnosed. Disassembly and consistent call of individual elements of electrical wires.

DIY thermopot repair: Popular malfunctions

Can a thermos boil water himself? Of course it can, if he is a thermal. This is a combination of electric kettle and thermos. He is like any technique, subject to breakdowns. Therefore, it is necessary to figure out whether the thermopote repair is possible on their own?

Device and principle of operation

Thermopot is a smart kettle. The difference is that:

  • In his case, in addition to the water tank, there is an electric pump;
  • There is a control module;
  • The flask retains heat and works like a thermos.

If in a regular thermos, hot water gradually cools down, then our unit will keep the given temperature until the device is included in the outlet. Therefore, all models are equipped with two heaters. One heating water boils water, the second supports the given temperature. The exception is inexpensive devices that have only a boiling function.

There are models with different thermostats. The device is responsible for the temperature of the liquid. There is a stranded regulator that smoothly increases heating from 60 to 100 degrees Celsius. And there is a steppe, which has a fixed position in advance. Many models use only three modes to control temperature indicators.

The pump is needed to supply hot water from a container into a cup.

Control module is attached under the lid. The fee is responsible for repeated boiling using the time relay. And for lowering the network voltage for the correct operation of the pump and the time relay.

Any model has a thermal switch that is controlled. Such protection is needed from overheating and combustion. Parts are attached at the bottom of the device case and side wall.

Thermopotist scheme

If you have no knowledge or experience in the repair of electronics, it is advisable to contact the service center. But it’s good to have a general idea of ​​how the thermopot is arranged. Then it will be possible to eliminate small malfunctions without a special education. For example, fix the network cord, fall out and replace a faulty capacitor or independently replace a burned out heating element or pump.

There is a power supply in a thermopot. It consists of a pulsed transformer and a diode bridge. We do not advise climbing inside. Even experts are unlikely to want to do repair. Most likely they will insist on the full replacement. Elements of an electric circuit connecting electric parts include: capacitors, resistance, diodes, transistors, etc.D. They are mounted on an electric board.

We have already mentioned an electric pump, control module and thermal protection. They are also included in the scheme. Let’s analyze several cases of repairs that do not require in.Depth knowledge.

How to disassemble the device

Before trying to repair anything, you need to correctly disassemble the unit. This is necessary, firstly, to find and get to the malfunction. Secondly, to correctly assemble the device back. Otherwise, already repaired thermopot will simply not work.

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Almost all models are arranged the same. Knowing the general principle, you can visually understand yourself. In order not to forget anything and not confuse when dismantling, we’ll make a step around the whole way:

  • Before proceeding to disassemble, turn off the thermos from the network, pour water out of it. Then turn up the bottom up and turn out all the screws.
  • Flat screwdriver or other convenient item, it is necessary to remove the plastic ring from the latches. Wraps under it, which also need to be unscrewed.
  • Now you can remove the pallet. We recommend the whole process to photograph step by step. Then you will not get confused when assembling.
  • We opened access to the pompo. To disconnect the hoses from the pump, you need to remove the fasteners from them. Cut them with scissors.
  • Remove hoses from nozzles.
  • Remove the top cover neatly and without excess strength.
  • We install the unit stable upward, take for a printed circuit board. Unscrew it and push it to the side.
  • Remove the gasket, turn two more screws.
  • Now the metal pallet is free and ready to extract. We take it out with the bottom.
  • Unscrew the last 8 screws that hold the protective cover. Then, using a screwdriver, remove the protection. Access to the heating element is open.
  • Disconnect and take out the heater.
  • Disconnecting the part we need, you need to check its performance. We call the whole electronics a tester. We check the case visually for cracks through which the liquid can flow.

Frequent malfunctions

That it may not work and how to understand the reasons.

  • Not a single indicator bulb burns on the display, the kettle does not turn on. Check the network cord and each wire connection. We also check the thermostat, a fuse that controls the module.
  • When you press the button, water is not supplied to the cup. The reason is in the pump.
  • Secondary boiling does not work, thermos does not warm the water. Check the power supply module.
  • The main boiling does not work. Check the thermostat.
  • Only heating works. Check the heater for boiling.

Now a little more. How to check it and what can be done so that everything will work on a new one.

Chip

There are two modules in any thermopot. One for food, the other to control. We look through the details on the gate boards, and we check for the presence of microcracks themselves. The burned parts are charred, the capacitors are swollen.

The details can be dropped and replaced by workers. Smell the cracks with a soldering iron. If the replaced part burns again, then it means somewhere a short circuit and you will have to change a whole block.

Heating elements

To check the condition of the heater, you first need to fall out, and then call it up. If he still burned out, then it is difficult to fix the heating element with his own hands. It is easier to replace with a new.

Does not pump water, the pump does not work

May not download water due to elementary blockage.

It is easy to eliminate such a breakdown by dismantling and cleaning:

  • Remove the hoses from the pump, disconnect the pump.
  • Unscrew the impeller from the body.
  • Remove the scale on the impeller.
  • Remove the impeller, clean the magnet from dirt.
  • If after cleaning the pump continues not to work, then perhaps the winding has burned out on the engine, then you will have to buy a new pump. When installing the hoses back to the nozzles, securely fix them with clamps to exclude leakage.
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