The main error codes of the gas boiler Bosch (Bosch) and ways to eliminate
Since there is very little space on the equalizer of such a boiler, the errors are signaled by short codes, which usually consist of letters and / or numbers. The following will be discussed how to identify the different types of errors for heating boilers brands Bosch, Bosch Gaz, as well as Bosch Eurostar or Junkers Bosch.
EA error is the most common Bosch boiler error code, showing no flame in the heating unit.
To clarify what exactly the fault is and what is the cause of such a malfunction, it is necessary to check several hypotheses:
- No gas supply (you need to look at the position of the gas tap and open it all the way if it was closed);
- Insufficient pressure (if it turns out that the pressure is lower than required, you should call a service technician to adjust the pressure);
- no electricity (make sure that the voltage in the electrical network is present, but if it has dropped below normal, you can use an autotransformer or a special stabilizer);
- there is no contact (inspection of the wires and cleaning them will help);
- The chimney is clogged or broken (check the chimney for permeability, clean it if necessary);
- the ignition electrode is dirty (it is necessary to check the electrode for distortion or contamination by cleaning it from soot);
- The gas control sensor is defective (to check for short circuits or breaks, you will need a multimeter);
- The heat exchanger is out of order (check this assembly for scale and clean it, if necessary);
- The gas fitting is leaking (if this happens, you should call a master to replace the obsolete part or unit); the electronic board is broken (in this case, you need to replace the part).
So, gas boiler Bosch 6000 with error EA, as well as other similar models, is repaired according to the above algorithm. If a Eurostar series boiler is broken, the EA code most likely indicates a lack of ionization current.
Error C6 is often found in gas boilers Bosch Gaz6000 24h 24 kW. It indicates an open differential pressure switch that should come into operation when the fan is switched on. Before troubleshooting it is necessary to check this relay, as well as inspect the connecting pipes and the exhaust device. You can remove condensate from the tubes with a hair dryer. It is also not superfluous to check the chimney for clogs in the form of ice, dust, cinders.
Error F00 or F0 indicates a malfunction in the internal circuitry of the appliance. It is necessary to check the good connection of wires to the electronic board of the boiler. Not only connections can be broken but also oxidized. Replacing the board or stripping the contacts of the boiler Bosch 6000 24 kW in this case can help get rid of this annoying problem.
Error E9 of Bosch gas boiler signals the user of problems with the temperature of the heating device. If the temperature limiter has tripped, a number of simple steps should be taken to correct the problem:
- check the place of contact connection to the board for physical damage and chemical malfunctions (i.e. oxidation), if necessary. clean the wires and reconnect them;
- Inspect the temperature limiter of the unit’s heat exchanger and make sure the core is intact; if necessary, replace the wire or stripe it and reattach it tightly;
- Perform a detailed analysis of the condition of the flue gas limiter, which controls its temperature, if melted or torn part. replace it with a new one;
- Check the pressure of the entire system, if the value (drop) will need to fill until it becomes normal;
- Start up the system to check the operation of the pump (if it is stuck, the pressure gauge must be repaired or replaced);
- Check the fuses on the board, as well as on the power supply cover;
- assess whether too much air has entered the boiler, which will need to be removed if necessary;
- Inspect the water system (if there is any scale formation it must be thoroughly removed and the heat exchanger must be flushed).
Service of gas boilers Bosch with appeared CE code is to increase pressure in the system. If the indicator reaches the “red” part, it is necessary to add more water using the make-up tap. If there is a CE error and the pointer is in the green area, the pressure gauge will most likely have to be replaced or repaired. Also the problem could be in the microswitch or in the diaphragm.
Error ER22 when working boilers company Bosch does not occur, because this code is provided for cooking plates of the same brand.
How to reduce the pressure in the boiler
There may also be a question of how to relieve excess pressure in the gas boiler, as a constant increase provokes emergency shutdowns, and this can lead to failure of the boiler. The pressure can be lowered by means of the Mayevsky cock. You also need to check and fix the makeup valve or secondary heat exchanger.
To prevent an increase in pressure in the circuit can be installed brass safety group for 3-4 bar. It is recommended to add corrosion inhibitors in heaters to eliminate clogged filters.
This manufacturer has a bypass element, which allows you to solve the question of how to raise the pressure in the Ariston boiler during a power outage.
It allows you to reduce excessive heating of the heat exchanger due to insufficient water flow. The flow of the coolant in the system is started, bypassing the circulating pump.
Please Note! At the first start of the heating medium in the system the boiler can give error E10, it passes automatically.
These Korean boilers are designed for pressure drop up to 0.1 bar, which minimizes emergency shutdowns. Such units are ideal for high-rise buildings. Boiler is equipped with a system of nozzles, safety systems and supply devices that allow it to operate at a reduced pressure up to 4 mbar. The pressure can be regulated by a remote control.
How to raise the pressure in the boiler
If the pressure drops due to the expansion tank, it means that its volume is incorrectly calculated or the internal membrane is damaged. The situation can be remedied by a more accurate calculation of the required volume or by replacing the tank.
If the pressure in the heating system drops immediately after the first start, it is normal. A newly filled circuit, if it has been filled with regular tap water, is full of air. As soon as it is converted into bubbles and removed from the pipes, the circuit parameters will normalize. You can also try to remove bubbles manually, using a manual air bleeder.
Worst of all, if there is a pressure drop in the system laid inside walls and floors. pipes are often camouflaged and completely buried in building structures. If something happens to them, you will have to thoroughly trouble to locate the fault. Prevent the situation by a more careful choice of materials for the construction of the heating circuit.
Before you raise the pressure, you need to check the system for leaks. To do this, you need to inspect:
- All radiators. often leaks form where they connect to the pipes. There may also be leaks between individual sections;
- Pipes. microcracks often lead to coolant leakage, so the pressure gradually drops;
- Fittings. another common place of formation of leakage of the coolant;
- Boilers. two-circuit models have a complex internal structure, it is necessary to inspect the circulation pump, three-way valve and heat exchanger.
It is best if the inspection of two-circuit boiler will take care of a specialist.
High pressure in the heating system causes unbalanced operation of equipment, frequent blockages of the boiler. As a result, individual elements are subjected to an increased load, which leads to circuit failures and equipment failure. Why the pressure in the heating system is growing? There are several reasons for this phenomenon, most often it is caused by leaks, unbalanced operation of separate elements, malfunction of automatics or incorrect settings.
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The expansion tank in a boiler Bosch WBN 6000 C RN
It’s not a boiler, it’s a pain in the ass. He’s always got diarrhea and scrofula. This time it was the expander. The symptoms are that a month or two ago, the system lost pressure again. Then just turned off the boiler. was not up to it. About three weeks ago I had time and started looking for leaks, found a number of small ones, fixed them. I have Thermagent Eko which leaks from the smallest of leaks and can only be contained by flax paste and anaerobic sealant.
First time checked the expansion tank, empty, pumped to 1 bar, pumped 1.7 bars of antifreeze and I had to go away for a couple of days. When I get there, I get the CA error (insufficient pressure in the system) and the gauge is zero. Been looking for leaks again, found a couple more small ones in new places. Checked the pressure again in the expansion chamber, zero again. I think maybe I was pumping with the cocks closed and underpumped. I open taps, start pumping the tank to the bar and from the drain valve on the system almost all leakage is displaced, and it is about 5 liters. I’m pumping antifreeze back into the system. Checked the spool and it didn’t seem to be leaking. Starting to get confused by the noise of air in the pump, but I write it off, maybe somewhere in the system, it will run out over time. But the noise can be the second source. a punctured membrane in the tank. And this thing is not as easy as a hydraulic accumulator can not change, or rather not change it in any way.
It’s been a busy week. I have xital, so I was looking at the system. The temperature in the cottage was within the set limits, so I thought that the boiler is working normally. But I arrive this weekend and first thing in the boiler room the boiler is not in error, but the pressure is in the red zone. I turn it off, bleed the rest of the pressure from the system, measure the pressure in the expander. I see. best case is a leaky spool, worst case is a leaky diaphragm. Went looking for a spool and wrench around the neighborhood. Found it, trying to unscrew it, it’s dead. I sawed a custom wrench for the spools from an m4 bolt. And with it the spool makes a crunch Bummer You can’t get a broken spool out. I did not even look at the price of the factory tank, it is clear that it will be a fat copeck. There’s only one thing left. to shut off the standard and hang an external tank. Had to return from the country and buy a new tank of 8 liters. I could have gone for 6, there is only about 30 liters of antifreeze in the system. The tank, bracket, hose nut. nut 3/4 stopper 1/2 on the boiler pump cost 2100. The original now looked at the cost of 6000 master dismantling the boiler, for disassemble the gas apparatus I wonder.
Started disassembling in the morning. Barely got to the expansion nut, unscrewed.
Started to put the tank, the good thing I had on the return manifold 1 stopper “just in case”. What a nerve-wracking job that bracket did. I don’t care if it leaks or not. I used everything. anaerobic sealant, linen and paste, linen and sealant (my kolhozny know-how, for particularly brain-dead places). And the only thing that sealed the leak on the fourth try was the fumigation tape. Unguided turner, who turned this thing. I remember all your relatives up to 7 knees with a bad word, I wish you a chisel between the buns.
Fault code deciphering
The code E09 on the screen of the appliance indicates a problem with the heating element. Notes that it was not just a malfunction, but the electric heater burned out. The heating element in the dishwasher is very different from those in washing machines. The part is built into the recirculation pump and not replaced separately from it. When the dishwasher is operating, the pump pumps water, which then passes through the electric heater. The hot water pressure created this way and washes the kitchen dishes.
The unit of the device, consisting of a heating element and a pump, repair specialists call the “warm” motor of the machine. To carry out the replacement, you need to know the model of the machine, since the error code E09 appears only in household appliances belonging to the third generation.
In rare situations, the error indicates a failure of the temperature sensor and indicates incorrect operation of the main module. This error code occurs when the electrical wiring that goes from the water heater to the module is damaged.
What to do?
The problem is solved by adding liquid to the system, but first it is necessary to eliminate the leak itself.
To do so, follow these prompts:
- Leak in the radiator section. turn off the heat, flush the water as much as possible, and then disconnect the battery. Mark the place of the leak, dry it, clean it and seal it with cold welding. If the hole is too big, you can simply remove that section by disconnecting them from each other.
- Leak in the panel radiator. you can try to fix the leak with cold welding, but in most cases you will need to replace the panel with a new one.
- Leaky joints. soldered structures are cut off, and a new piece of pipe is made from a new one. Solder with a special soldering iron.
- Leaking taps. replacing the element with a new one.
Causes of increased pressure when the boiler is damaged
A person who is inexperienced in the maintenance of heating systems, it is difficult to independently determine the true cause of why the pressure rises in the heating boiler. However, to get an idea of possible malfunctions, a list of probable causes is provided.
- Increase the pressure up to 1 atm. can occur as a result of a depressurisation of the heat exchanger. Cracking in the casing during continuous operation leads to this consequence. Cracks can be caused by factory defects or poor material strength, consequences of water hammer or equipment wear and tear. In this case, the volume of coolant is systematically replenished. However, it is impossible to visualise the leakage point because the fluid evaporates quickly when the burner is in operation. This fault results in the replacement of the heat exchanger.
- The increase in pressure can occur when the make-up valve is open. A weak internal pressure at the boiler contrasts with an increased pressure in the pipe system. This results in an additional water supply through an open valve. So the water pressure will gradually increase until the pressure is discharged. If the value of the pressure in the pipeline decreases, the water supply to the boiler is blocked by the coolant, reducing the pressure in the circuit. The make-up valve should be kept closed, and if it is broken it should be replaced.
- An increase in the pressure can occur due to a faulty three-way valve. Such breakage leads to the flow of water into the circuit from the expansion tank. Periodically debris collects on the valve, which can cause it to break. It is necessary to periodically clean this element, and in case of failure to replace it. A simple angle filter can be installed to prevent contaminants from the water supply.
- If all signs indicate that the pressure in the circuit increases, and the hand of the manometer does not respond, it means that it is out of order. A broken device eliminates the ability to control the system and needs to be replaced.
Excessive pressure in the heating circuit is determined by the manometer, if the indicator exceeds the allowable level. you need to take immediate action. Besides the pressure gauge, the overpressure can be indicated by the pressure relief valve from which water will start to flow if the pressure is too high.