Brick bath stoves with their own hands

Materials and their quantity

You must know that the basic material is brick, and the construction of the sauna stove with a firebox from the anteroom consists mostly of it. Therefore, the choice of bricks is worth the lion’s share of time. On this material it is by no means necessary to save, for the furnace you need a quality base.

Experts recommend the use of fireproof bricks. It comes in these sizes:

Chamotte bricks of straw color are the best.

In addition to bricks you will need to have:

• Clay for the mortar;
• classical size grates. 5-7 pcs;
• a door for the hole with an underblow;
• a door for the firebox opening. 25 by 28 cm;
• A door for another compartment with stones;
• Fireclay products. 7-8 pcs.;
• Standard-sized steel corners. 5-7 pcs.;
• classic size corners for the slab;
• A sufficient amount of sand. both river and quartz.

These materials are enough to confidently get to work.

Fabrication guide with masonry plans

It is easy to make a brick sauna stove with a closed or open sauna heater. Choose the material and know the whole process.

Masonry of an open stove

When the concrete base is completely ready you can proceed to further work. Below are the basic construction work on the masonry stove heater for the bath with his own hands from bricks and the scheme of action.

Poryadovka brick sauna stove with its own hands with an open heater can be seen in the photo below:

Photo instructions for laying of an open stove for the sauna:

Layout of a closed stove-saver for the bath

Description of masonry closed stove-saver for the bath:

• The first row must be perfectly flat. Then using plumb line to check the verticality of the walls.
• The ash drawer is made. It is necessary for waste that remains in the process of burning fuel.
• At the level of the third row, the ash drawer is secured with a steel strip. Usually it regulates the burning process: if you open the damper, the flame starts burning more intensively.
• On top of the fifth row lay the steel corners for the grate.
• After this start the masonry work of the firebox.
• In the sixth row, the firebox is laid with fireclay bricks. The height of the firebox is usually 25 cm, and the width is slightly more. 30. On top of the grate of the grate is placed.
• Then the area of the firebox is gradually expanded. The outer masonry is narrowed with the refractory brick.
• To create the holes for the secondary air supply. To do this, the side bricks are cut with prongs.
• The laying of the outer bricks continues.
• The doors of the firebox are overlapped.
• Partition for the chimney is installed.
• Water tank is installed.
• At the level of the fifteenth row, the top of the firebox is covered with a slab of durable material, on which the stones will be placed.
• Masonry compartment where the stones will be placed, it should be quite large.
• The chimney must be made of fireclay bricks and gradually narrowed to the top. Install the damper. The chimney stove can be installed through the roof or wall. To do this, it is necessary to put a layer of thermal insulation in places of its passage. The chimney may become dusty with precipitation from the fuel during operation. A tin cover can be made to prevent this.

After installation, it is necessary to dry the device well. Open all the doors and leave the stove to air out for a few days, if not longer than a week.

Do not immediately use the heating device to its full extent. All moisture must be removed. To do this, heat the stove for a few days with small logs for a few minutes at a time. If there are no wet drops on the flap. the appliance is ready for use.

A type of masonry sauna heater

The design of a brick heater may vary. The option is chosen according to the size of the sauna, the skills and financial capabilities of the owner. The following construction types can be distinguished:

• Permanent. are characterized by a thin-walled structure and a small number of stones heated to 300-350 degrees. They can work with gas or electricity. The design is equipped with a protective automatic unit. To put it into operation is possible only after obtaining a permit from the fire inspectorate.
• Intermittent action. performed by thick masonry, a lot of stones are used, the temperature of their heating is much higher. Keep the heat well.
• For solid fuel. equipped with a partition that prevents combustion products from getting into the room.
• Compact brick stove for a small bath with their own hands can be made in several variants. The easiest way is to make it from a laundry oven. Pebbles are put in the tank instead of liquid. The combustion chamber is thin-walled. The problem can be solved by laying bricks.
• Design with double walls and water tank. It can be placed on top (on the stove) or bottom (the end part to the furnace).
• You can make an oven without a water heater. The partition wall in this case is built of a cast-iron pot. Stones in such a construction are heated quickly. The fuel tank is lined with refractory blocks.

Some designs provide for a reservoir for heating water, others do not. The choice depends on the availability of hot water and preferences of the owner

What kind of brick to use for a sauna stove?

It should be understood that the stove in the bath will work in more extreme modes than a conventional stove for heating the house. This means that masonry bricks must be of good quality, without damage, chips and cracks, and preferably with smooth spoon faces (see picture below). figure below). For the construction of furnaces 2 types of bricks are used: red ceramic solid brick and refractory (fireclay). The dimensions of standard bricks. 250 x 120 x 65 mm, the approximate weight. 3.5 kg.

1 m3 of standard ceramic bricks contains approximately 480 stones with a total weight of 1,700 kg. However, some brick oven designs may involve the use of irregular sized stones as shown below:

Advice. Buying a brick, take it with some reserve for rejection. The value of the reserve depends on the quality of the material, and also. on the skill of the master to accurately and correctly prick or cut it. The inexperienced stove builder needs more stock.

Masonry process and installation

Bath stoves with their own hands made of bricks with a water tank are stacked on special mortars with high clay. For masonry chimney and foundation use lime or cement mortar. Preparation of the clay mortar is a very responsible procedure. The most important thing in the process is to choose the right components. Too greasy mixture will crack when drying, and if too much sand, the joints will crumble.

Water for the furnace is best to take the rainwater. The sand must be fine-grained, sifted through a sieve. Soak the clay for a day to ensure plasticity and stir it occasionally. Experienced stove-makers can determine the proportions of the mixture by eye. For those who work with clay recently, we advise to make a few test samples and then mix the main batch.

Arrangement of a brick oven for a bath with a water tank:

The masonry of the stove is done in the following order:

Build an outdoor wood stove from bricks and cement

• 1 row. A solid row, laid on a layer of waterproofing on the zero layer of the foundation.
• 2 row. Let’s start to lay the wells for the ash-pan and the cleaning door. Fasten the doors with wire whiskers.
• 3-4 rows. Fix the ash-pan according to the diagram.
• 5 row. The grates are placed on this row. The grate should lie with a gap, so that when it expands it will not damage the construction.
• 6-8 rows. Install the door of the furnace compartment and water tank. The tank is wrapped with asbestos tape. Secure the door with a wire.
• 9-13 rows. With these rows we build up the height and close the water tank. When it is complete, the cast-iron plate is placed. This slab serves to separate the furnace and chimney parts. A stone container is placed on the slab.
• 14-15 rows. The transition to the furnace narrowing is performed.
• 16-21 rows. A ventilation duct is laid. In the 18th row a damper is put.

Before the first heating it is necessary for the brickwork to dry properly. The natural drying process can be accelerated by better ventilation.

Brick oven for the bath with his own hands drawings and photos

Brick sauna stove with your own hands drawings and photos

The easiest option for heating the steam room is a brick stove for the bath, but not every beginner will be able to fold the correct furnace at the first time.

First of all it is worth finding the perfect design, choose good bricks and mix the mortar properly. There are several varieties of stoves that differ in design.

manufacturing process

Stirring

In order to understand in general terms how to make a brick oven for the bath, it is necessary to clarify for yourself that the task will not be easy. Even in villages, where the furnace heating is a familiar moment and without exaggeration part of life, for the manufacture of stoves are taken only a few. The secrets of the process are transmitted orally and require long practice. Although on the other hand, to make a simple stove, with the right amount of knowledge and experience in principle is possible. Work in this case can be divided into several stages, which should be carried out sequentially.

Preparing

Refractory Bricks

One of the most important moments of any business is the preparation. In the case of installing a stove in the bath, it is a question of procuring all the necessary materials and preparing tools. Here everything seems to be simple, but there are some nuances:

• First of all, it is important to note that for the manufacture of the furnace will require several varieties of bricks. For example, to install the furnace requires heat-resistant (fireclay) brick, and for the manufacture of chimneys you can do with the usual.
• At this stage also prepare all metal parts of the furnace, such as doors, plugs, grates, etc. It is important to check that the parts do not have cracks, as this will reduce the operating life and the risk of fire hazards.
• If you plan to install a heating boiler for water, then this should also be taken into account in the preparatory phase, because depending on where it will be located will be somewhat different and action. By the way, you can do without the heating tank equipment in order to provide visitors with hot water.
• Also at this stage it is necessary to determine the location of the future furnace and to dismantle the floor covering, as well as to saw the beams, if the floor is already installed.

Installation of the base

Foundation for a brick oven

In order to ensure that the oven will stand for a long time and perform its functions qualitatively, you can not do without the installation of a solid and level base.

• To do this, remove the flooring and joists at the place of the future installation and slightly lower the foundation according to the shape of the future oven.
• Then in the recess is performed cement-sand screed. It should be taken into account that the thickness of the screed should be no less than 30 cm, and its layer should be reinforced by steel reinforcement, the thickness of which should be at least 10 mm.
• After the screed dries it is necessary to lay the first layer of bricks, which will play the role of the base of all subsequent masonry.

Here we can add that work associated with the cement mortar can hardly be called clean, so if there is a desire to protect surfaces from contamination, such as the floor, they must be covered with a film.

Further installation

Masonry work in the sauna oven

Once the foundation is ready, you can start laying the subsequent rows of bricks. By the way, a complete and detailed ranking of the brick oven for the bath will vary depending on the chosen design. Its detailed description is a separate material, below we will only give an approximate order of operations.

• First the first row of bricks is laid. Already at this stage it is necessary to reflect all the design features of the furnace. Here we have in mind the air ducts, the exact location of the furnace, the future chimney and so on. Bricks are laid side by side on the mortar. Remove the remnants with a trowel.
• Then the following layers of bricks are placed in a similar way in the rows up to the point where the first air vent door is installed. After installing it, the laying of bricks continues. Here we can add that if you perform not just a duct, and over the ash-pit to leave a free place, with its help you can solve the problem of hot water in the washing room. Inside this space is placed a corrugated metal hose, which leads the ends outward. When the heater is heating, the hose will be accordingly much heated. If you run water through it, the output will be hot water. Thus, there is no need for a heating tank, which is especially important for rooms of modest size.
• Thus, moving gradually along the rows, the “body” of the stove is formed. When it is time to install the grates, for convenience, you can choose a space in two bricks, equal to the thickness of the grates and install them in this place.
• Once the furnace space is formed, in accordance with the furnace project, you can either cover it with bricks, or lay a metal base, on which the stones will later be placed.
• In the next row, the exhaust pipe is laid out in a similar manner, on the very top of which a metal pipe can be connected and led through the roof to save material.

Brick stove for the bath with your own hands

Although a brick oven takes longer to heat up than a metal oven, it can provide a more evenly heated steam room and no “cold zones”. Experienced steamers argue that it is comfortable to stay in such a room even at high temperatures.

Brick stoves are quite complex devices, and their masonry requires special skills. You can make it with your own hands, but only with the exact observance of the laying scheme (poryadovka) and knowledge of certain subtleties.

Brick oven: how to reduce heat loss

One of the ways to reduce the heat loss when making a brick heater is to install the chancellors at the very bottom of the heater, at the ash-pit level.

Chancellors are blind channels whose main purpose is to reduce the contact of the bottom of the furnace with the floor and the basement. The air inside the channelling acts as a thermal insulator.

In addition, it is possible to improve the convection of air in the problem area at the bottom of the furnace with the help of channelling. By taking some of the heat from the brick mass, the ducts give it back to the room. There is no unnecessary heat accumulation in the depth of the stove.