Build a brick oven with your own hands

Important nuances and tips

Experienced bakers sometimes ignore the stage with dry masonry, but for novice masters it is mandatory. This will help to understand the internal structure of the furnace, all its channels and cavities, to prevent possible errors.

In practically every row some bricks are adjusted to the size of the furnace. Experienced masons advise to put the elements of each row separately when dismantling dry masonry. You can also take a marker and write the number of each brick and the number of the element in the masonry.

Instead of mortar in dry masonry it is most convenient to use wooden laths of equal thickness. They will be useful in the future, too, in order to control the amount of mortar between bricks.

• Each row during the “wet” masonry first laid dry to once again check the position of all elements.
• Place the narrow slats used previously on the sides of the bottom row.
• A layer of mortar about 10-12 mm thick is applied on top.
• Lay the brick and nail it with a rubber hammer until it settles on the mortar to the level of the laths.
• Continue in the same manner.
• After the laths are removed, fill in the cavities with mortar.
• The newly formed fresh joint should be immediately grouted in order to make the masonry look aesthetically pleasing.

Remove the slats only when the row is the third or the fourth one from the top. Now they can be reused. About four sets of such laths are needed for the work.

Each row, laid on the mortar, should be checked with level and plumb line for position relatively to the horizontal and vertical.

Do not use mud bricks for the parts of the furnace exposed to constant temperature stresses. In general, it is undesirable to use in the construction of the array and the chimney elements with cracks and chips. Chipped bricks may be used only in the backfill of the foundation of the stove.

Old bricks, obtained from the disassembly of demolished structures, will be suitable for masonry foundation, if it is not badly damaged.

The quality of masonry largely depends on the strength of the bond between the bricks and the mortar.

To improve this point, experienced craftsmen recommend:

• Before masonry red bricks soak for 7.10 min. Chamotte should only be dipped in water and shake off the drops.
• Lay the brick in place in one clear movement, without shifting or tapping it.
• Apply only the required amount of mortar to the masonry site. Joints in the array should not be more than 5 mm, in the firebox no more than 3 mm.
• In the process of masonry must be “swabbed”, i.e.е. Grind the inside surfaces of the chimney and furnace chambers with a stiff brush to create the smoothest possible surface along the flue gas path.

If you could not immediately put a brick in place, you should completely clean from the mortar and the element itself, and the place where it is installed, and masonry perform on a fresh layer of mortar.

When masonry chimney allowed to use only red full-body brick, which is well tolerated the effects of acid deposits and temperature fluctuations. The flatter the inside surface of the chimney, the better the draft and fewer clogs. You can treat the inside of the pipe with liquid glass.

On our site there are articles with a detailed description of the technology of construction of different types of brick stoves, we advise you to read it:

Preparatory work before starting to build a brick oven

Need to choose the scheme poryadovki. To determine the exact number of bricks, it is better to carry out first the process of laying on a dry. This is important especially for those who are doing such work for the first time.

The process of masonry on a dry. is a preliminary work to assess the correctness of the ranks and the amount of selected materials. When laying a brick wood-burning stove with their own hands, the poryadovka, borrowed from the reference literature, will help to assess the scale of work and labor costs, as well as determine the amount of material spent and cost.

How to build a stove with your own hands from bricks: a step by step guide

No country house is not without a stove, because it both feeds and heats. Today, many villages have gas mains, and it would seem that you can switch to a more convenient way of heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to give up brick stoves, which give a completely different, special heat. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, there is an opportunity to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

How to build a stove with your own hands out of bricks

To learn how to fold a stove with your own hands from bricks, you need to study in detail the scheme and technology of masonry. Before proceeding to study a particular option, you should consider several models, as there are compact and massive constructions. Choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions required in the household.

There are quite a few models of brick ovens. Experienced stovesmiths can make their own changes to the finished designs, because they know by heart where and how the internal ducts through which the smoke should be carried away. Thanks to their proper placement in the construction of the stove, it will heat evenly and give most of the heat into the room. Beginners are better to follow exactly the already made schemes-arrangements, not deviating from them not a single step, because even one wrong brick can ruin all this rather time-consuming work.

Types of Brick Stoves

There are three main types of stoves: cooking, heating and stove-heating. Choosing a suitable design, you must first decide what exactly will be required of it.

A typical example of a cooking stove, although it also has a considerable heating effect

Cooking stove has a cast-iron panel for cooking and heating water. Usually such furnaces are small and popular for installation in small private houses and cottages. Of course a cooking stove can do more than cook, it can also heat a small room.

Heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive construction

Heating and cooking stove can warm the house or cottage with a large area, and its design sometimes includes a couch, and in addition to the stove is built in an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying fruits and vegetables.

Heating furnaces are usually quite compact in design

The heating-oven variant is always compact. It does not include a hob and serves only to heat rooms. Such a structure is able to warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the best place to place the stove

Choosing the right stove model, you need to look for a suitable place for it. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desire of the homeowner.

• Stove standing in the middle of a large room can divide it into two different zones, for example into kitchen and dining room or living room. The cooking stove will go into the kitchen, and a flat wall with a well-done masonry will be a design decoration for the living room. It is possible, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to build a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms. in this case, the partition must be insulated from the stove with non-combustible material. You can use sheets of asbestos for this purpose or install masonry.
• It is undesirable to build the stove by the outer wall, as it will quickly cool down there.
• When installing the stove between two rooms, it should also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The intended place of construction should be well measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation must be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the area of the base, you also need to calculate the height of the structure, so that it fits well into the room in all parameters.
• In order to work more easily, to the selected model, it is necessary to find a scheme-arrangement.

After deciding on the model and the place of installation, you can buy materials for construction and prepare the tools.

Stove is good, but a barbecue is better!

We recommend that you read the latest article on our portal how to make a barbecue with their own hands.

But before moving on to the barbecue article, be sure to read how to lay bricks here.

Tools, building materials for masonry brick oven

Depending on the size of the stove, it requires different amounts of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the masonry tools are the same.

Of the tools and appliances for the construction of any stove will be needed:

“Goat” is a scaffolding that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient in that on them the master stove-maker can not only rise, but also put a container of mortar next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of the work.

The goats will be needed for the masonry of the upper rows

Another option of a stand, more compact is the goat. You need to have two of these devices, since if you put them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick planks on top, you will get the same platform. It is possible to use separately. as ladders.

You can also make do with a couple of more compact little trestles, making a temporary boardwalk on them

Of the tools you will need to prepare the following set:

Tools you will need for masonry furnace

строим печь-барбекю из кирпича своими руками. building a brick oven BBQ with your own hands

Brick pick will be needed for dividing and bricking.

Broomstick. made of loofah, to remove dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and to mop inside the masonry.

The angle will help to bring the corners of the inside and outside of the furnace exactly to 90 degrees.

A plumb line is needed for checking wall verticality.

The brick hammer is also needed for splitting bricks into parts and chipping away small protrusions of cured mortar.

Pliers will be needed for bending and straightening wire.

A rubber mallet is needed for tapping bricks in the masonry if they are difficult to fit.

A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as for taking apart old masonry.

Trowel (trowel) of different sizes for applying mortar and removing the surplus material.

A ruler will be needed for leveling the surface of the foundation.

A lead scriber is used for making a marking, especially if the stove will be tiled.

A tapping block is a piece of pipe that is also used for deburring tiles, instead of a hammer, it is used to hit the knife.

A wooden shovel for kneading and grouting the mortar.

A metal drawing rod to make the markings.

A level is needed to check the level of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

A rasp is used to remove lumps and lapping.

Masonry mortar is needed for the accurate design of seams, if the furnace will not be plastered or decorated with decorative tiles.

A strainer, which will help make the masonry mortar thin.

The number of materials will depend on the chosen stove, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating look will not need a cooktop, a cabinet-oven, a water tank. But usually a standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

The usual set of cast iron and steel parts for masonry heating and stove

Of the other metal elements you may need:

Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

Directly for masonry will need to purchase:

Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-to-use dry heat-resistant stove masonry mix.

You will need cement for the foundation. Rubble, sand, and material for the formwork and a sheet of roofing felt for waterproofing.

You will also need heat-resistant material for the protective finish of the walls of the house and metal sheet or ceramic tiles for the floor.

Preparing the site for the construction of the stove

The oven foundation is usually poured at the same time as the foundation of the whole house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it is often the case that the oven is erected in the finished building.

The next steps depend on what kind of floor in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and poured completely, on the principle of the plate, and the structure of the furnace is not conceived too massive, you can start laying the furnace directly on the concrete floor, preliminarily laying under the masonry sheet of tar paper.
• If the foundation is strip foundation or the floor is wooden, you will have to build a foundation from scratch.

My first Pompeii Brick Pizza Oven. Time Lapse Video

Foundation

The foundation should be deepened into the ground. This is done by marking the place for the furnace on the floor and then removing the boards or the thin concrete floor.

• The excavation is dug in the opened soil, with a depth of 400 500 mm.
• At the bottom of the hole is a “pillow” of 100 mm of sand, and then a similar thickness of crushed stone, the layers are well tamped.
• Next, around the perimeter of the pit is arranged formwork for filling the concrete, it must rise above the main floor at 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The bottom layer of the foundation, about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed evenly over the entire area, and left to harden.
• Once the lower layer has set well, the upper layer, which will consist of thinner mortar, can be poured. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and smoothed with a rule, and the upper boards of the formwork will serve as a lighthouse for this. The foundation must be well dried and gain the required strength. For this it is necessary, starting from the second day, to moisten it with water, which will improve the uniformity of maturation of the cement mortar and prevent the formation of cracks.

• When the foundation is completely finished (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) it is covered with roofing felt to create a waterproofing layer. Then the shape of the furnace base is marked on this surface and the first row will be laid according to it.

Dry masonry

• Experienced masters recommend to the novice stove-maker not to hurry to lay bricks on the mortar, so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is to be done for the first time, it is best to take the entire furnace structure out to dry.
• Making this process carefully, with constant attention to the existing scheme, you can understand the internal structure of the chimney ducts and the layout of the furnace and blower.
• For masonry dry it is necessary to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks it will be filled with mortar during the main masonry, forming the joints.
• Once the entire stove model up to the chimney is laid out, it is dismantled again, with the bricks of each row stacked separately, if there is enough room for it, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if the bricks were adjusted to the proper size when dry masonry.
• It should be noted immediately that in the final laying each of the rows is also better to control first, to lay it dry again, and then immediately mount it on the mortar.
• In addition, you should know that, laying bricks on mortar, its thickness is approximately 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, knock with a rubber mallet. Immediately use a trowel to remove the surplus mortar.
• After laying two or three rows, until the mortar has not hardened, the seams are made out with grouting. If suddenly the mortar was not wet enough, it can be sprinkled with water from a sprayer.
• Do not forget that during the masonry, it is necessary to constantly monitor the verticality and levelness of the rows.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to masonry.

The video shows the scheme of constructing a compact heating furnace, which is suitable even for a very small room. But it does not have any additional features:

DIY Multi-function Oven at home. Design and Structure Pizza Oven

The compact Swedish style

“The Swede is the neatest and most compact stove for small rooms. This stove can be quite called a heating and cooking stove, because it has a high body with chimney ducts located inside, which means. When it burns, the walls will be well heated, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows the Swedish style stove, which has a wider pediment than the second picture, because it is extended with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows, there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a Swedish stove, but with a slightly different design

The layout shown below corresponds almost exactly to the furnace in the picture below, with a few exceptions: the two cleaning windows above the hob have been replaced by a niche, the location of the pipes is slightly different on the other side of the structure, and the corners are rounded. If this masonry layout is used, the stove will look like this.

Lay the structure according to the design scheme:

Arrangement diagram for laying a compact space heating smorgasbord

Although this diagram shows that from the first row begin to lay out the ash-pan chamber, it is still worth to lay it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row you can begin to work on the ash-pan chamber. But, not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the scheme, and the first continuous row can be called a zero.

• So, from the first row begin to form the ash-pan chamber.
• On the second row they put the ash door. The door is fastened to the wire and propped up with bricks until it is bricked up on all sides.

• Starting from the fourth row, two cleaning chambers are put out and the doors are also put in place.
• On the fifth row the grate is placed.

• The firebox hatch is also attached to the sixth row with a wire, which is also temporarily supported by bricks set on the grate. If necessary, a support is also put on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row the beginning of the vertical flue ducts are laid.
• On the ninth row, the firebox hatch is blocked with a brick, and the wire with which it is fastened is removed into the joints between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, the cooker hob is placed on the opening left, and strips of asbestos are placed underneath its edges. The front bottom edge of the cooking chamber is framed with a steel corner.
• The twelfth to sixteenth rows take the cooking space.
• On the seventeenth row, metal strips are placed and the top edge of the row is framed with a corner.
• The next two rows are placed as one continuous row, leaving only three smoke channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and the cleaning chamber and the drying niche begin to form.
• On the 22nd row the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row the chamber is completely covered, and at the end of it an opening is left to continue the flue duct.
• On the 24th row, metal strips overlap the drying niche.
• On the 25th row we install the cleaning chamber door.
• On the 27th, the door is closed with masonry.
• On the 28th, the whole chamber is shut off.
• On the 30th row, two sliders are placed on the chimney channels. First the frame of this part is placed on the mortar, and then the shutter is inserted into it.

• From the 31st to the 35th row a part of the chimney is laid.
• From the 35th to the 38th starts the construction of the pipe partition.
• Next, goes masonry chimney, which already has its own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, but you must be very careful to watch the evenness and internal cleanliness (from the remnants of mortar) of the flue ducts. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row put another door on the cleaning chamber.
• On the 27th row another flue pipe latch is placed.
• On the 29th, the chimney is widened by one row and on the 30th bring it to its original shape.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the chimney is laid, which leads through the roof.

When passing the chimney through the attic floor, it must be insulated from it with fluffy materials it can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, buried in a box located around the perimeter of the pipe.

Hole in the roof, through which the pipe, after construction must be closed waterproofing material, which is applied to both the pipe and the roof.

You may be interested in this

We recommend you read the article, how to make a fireplace with their own hands out of brick.

In addition we recommend you to read the article about fireplace decoration.

Installing other furnace elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the furnace, so it is worth considering how to install some of them.

If there is an oven, it is often installed on the same level as the furnace or the stove. This is important to heat it quickly and evenly.

• In the place where it will be installed, first mount the metal corners they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord, this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet to last longer.

for masonry mixes and adhesives for special purposes

The tank for heating water can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the design of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located near the chimney, from which the water and will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you must provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. The water tank should preferably be made of a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon it will go yellow water, unsuitable for water procedures.

A hot water tank can be a good addition to the stove design

Another option for installing this water-heating element is to install it at the same level as the stove, above the furnace, when it will be heated only from below. In this case, under the tank, it is best to lay a cast-iron or thick steel plate, otherwise its bottom will burn very quickly. In this installation option, the tank is not embedded in the walls of the furnace.

The disadvantage of such a setup is that there is less space for the cooktop, or the furnace will have to do more deep, and therefore. The total dimensions of the furnace will increase, which is not always possible in cramped quarters.

Choosing the stove model for your home, you need to think in advance what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. On this basis and should choose the design of the building with the scheme-arrangement.

It should be noted that masonry furnace is a real art, and not even every experienced craftsman is always “perfect”. Therefore, if there are no skills in this work, it is better to invite a specialist who will help to do everything correctly.

dry masonry

Knowing all these nuances, you can go directly to masonry.

The presented video shows a scheme of erection of a compact heating river, which is suitable even for a very small room. However, it does not have any other additional features:

The compact Swede

Convenient, versatile and quite compact furnace Swedish

“The Swede is the neatest and most compact stove for small rooms. This stove can be fully called a heating and cooking stove, because it has a high body with internal chimney channels, which means that when it is heated the walls will be well heated, giving the heat into the room. At the same time the design includes a hob.

The first picture shows the “Swede”, which has a wider gable than in the second photo, as it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows over the stove is made a niche for drying. This version of the furnace is twice as wide as the second model.

This is. Also a Swedish style stove, but of a slightly different design

The pecking ordering shown below is almost identical to the furnace in the picture below with some differences: two cleaning windows above the hob, slightly different location of the chimney and the ash-pan on the other side of the structure. on the other side of the construction, and rounded corners. If this design is used, the stove will look like this.

Pave the structure, based on the scheme-arrangement:

Scheme for laying a compact space-heating and cooking Swedish style stove

Although this diagram shows that from the first row begin to lay the ash-pan chamber, it is still worth to lay it in a continuous plane and only from the second row you can begin to work on the ash-pan chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the scheme, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

• And so from the first row begins the ash-pan door.
• On the second row the ash-pan door is placed. The door is fastened to the wire and propped up temporarily with bricks until it is covered on all sides with masonry.
• Starting from the fourth row, the two clearing chambers are placed and the ash door is also placed.
• On the fifth row, the fire grate is placed.

Immediately place the grate in the correct place

• The firebox hatch is also fastened to the sixth row with the help of wire, and also temporarily propped by the bricks set on the grate, and, if necessary, propped on the front side of the hatch.

If necessary, when installing the firebox hatch, it can be temporarily braced with a support

• On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical chimney ducts are laid.
• On the ninth row, the brick overlaps the door of the furnace, the wire which it is secured, is removed in the joints between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, the hob is placed on the opening left, and strips of asbestos are placed underneath its edges. The front bottom edge of the cooking chamber is framed with a steel corner.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row, the cooking space is moved out.
• On the 17th row, metal strips are placed and its upper edge is decorated with a corner.
• The next two rows are laid as one continuous row, leaving only three chimney channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is placed, and the clearing space and drying space begin to form.
• On the 22nd row, the hob door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row the chamber is completely covered and at the end of it the hole is left that will continue the flue duct.
• On the 24th row, metal strips are used to cover the drying niche.
• On the 25th install the cleaning chamber door.
• On the 27th row the door is blocked with brickwork.
• On the 28th row the whole chamber is shut off.
• On the 30th row, two sliders are installed on the chimney channels. First the frame of this part is placed on the mortar, and then the latch is inserted into it.

Installing the gate valve on the chimney ducts

• From the 31st to the 35th row a part of the chimney is laid.
• From the 35th to the 38th starts the construction of the pipe partition.
• Then comes the masonry chimney, which already has its own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, only need to be very careful to monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from mortar residues) of the flue ducts. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, they install another cleaning chamber door.
• On the 27th row, another slide of the chimney is placed.
• On the 29th they widen the chimney by one row and on the 30th they bring it to its initial shape.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid which leads through the roof.

If the chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be insulated from it with non-combustible materials. It can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay embedded in a box located around the perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof, through which the pipe passes, after construction is necessarily closed with a waterproofing material, which is applied to both the pipe and the roof.

Maybe you will be interested in this article, how to make a fireplace with your own hands out of bricks. In addition, we recommend that you read the article about finishing the fireplace.

Masonry mortars. what they should be?

Before folding the stove with his own hands, you should understand the compositions that will ensure a reliable fixation of bricks and the entire structure. Usually use masonry mortars based on sand and clay (white kaolin or chamotte marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

Components of the composition for masonry stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that from chamotte clay is any smell (unpleasant or pleasant), do not take it. Aroma indicates the presence of organics in the raw material. Such clay is not suitable for masonry. Take any sand, most importantly, that it had no extraneous impurities.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined by experimentation, conducting special tests on the following scheme:

• Pour 1 kg of clay with plain water and leave it for 24 hours, until the composition sours;
• Knead the clay to the state of plasticine (by adding water to the souring mixture);
• divide a mix into 3-5 parts and add sand (from 10 to 100% by volume) in its different portions
• mix mortars (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3,5 hours.

Then the samples should be carefully rolled out into 30-40 cm long sausages about 1.5 cm and wrap them around a round workpiece of larger diameter. After that wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). All that remains is to analyze the quality of the mortars.

If there are microscopic cracks formed on the sausage, or there are none at all, feel free to mix the clay and sand in the proportions used for this sample. With cracks no deeper than 2 mm mortar can be used for masonry those areas of the heating structure, which are not heated above 280-300 ° C. If the sausages are covered with rips and deep cracks, it means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is forbidden to use it for the construction of the furnace.

An even simpler option is to buy in a construction store ready-made mix for stove work. Do not want to bother with creating the perfect mortar yourself, just buy it and proceed with the construction of a brick oven.

Building materials for a mini oven

Prepare the clay beforehand. To do this, it is poured with water and left like this for about a day. You can speed up the process, and to do this, thoroughly mix it every five to seven minutes, preferably using a mixer drill, for an hour. Sieve through a sieve. The sand also needs to be sifted beforehand.

To build a heating mini stove, which will occupy an area of 0.4 square kilometers, you can accelerate the process. meters, will be needed:

• 20 liters of mortar;
• 60 pieces of red stove bricks;
• 38-40 pieces of fireclay bricks;
• firebox door;
• an ash door;
• fire grate;
• hob;
• chimney slide.

The doors, grate and hob must be cast iron.

If you do without fireclay bricks, then it will be a model of mini stove on firewood, not on coal. Even the highest quality red bricks will deteriorate over time from the high temperatures created by the coal fuel. In general, to make a mini Russian stove with your own hands, you just need to adhere to the recommendations.

The nuances of performing the furnace finishing

The walls of the stove, built of good bricks, and even decorated outside, do not need to finish: whitewash and plaster. If there are no chips and cracks on the masonry elements, the construction followed the vertical with the horizontals, the heating installation will look great as it is.

On the stove masonry of quality bricks is enough to perform grouting and carefully expand the joints. Without extra finishing, the heating and cooking structure looks better.

If the furnace walls are still a complaint, there are defects on them, and masonry is not perfect, then the finish is very necessary. Before finishing work, the outer surface is thoroughly swabbed, grouted with a piece of brick to improve adhesion, and then wait for it to dry out.

Dried out aggregate can be plastered using the clay-sand mortar used in masonry. To increase the strength of the composition is allowed to add 1% of asbestos crumbs. Heating versions of stoves are lined with tiles. this is the most reliable and gas-proof, but also the most time-consuming type of finish.

Classification by intended use

• Heating. Such stoves are used only for heating the room as the only or additional heater. Heating furnaces circulate and heat air.
• Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used both for heating the room and for cooking instead of the stove.

Straight-flow.

The principle of operation of such furnaces is as follows: The air moves into the ash-pit, goes up and, bypassing the grate, comes out through the chimney.

Ducted.

This kind of stove is an improved type of straight-flow stove. That is, due to the set of ducts, the warm air does not go straight into the chimney, but, following them, warms the room. When installing channel ovens, a linear dependence of their efficiency on the length and the number of channels should be taken into account.

Hooded stoves.

Such furnaces serve for keeping the heat in the room. In accordance with the laws of physics, the warm air tends upwards, where it is kept by the hood. As it cools, the air currents become heavier and go down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it escapes through the undercurrent.

• Provide uniform heating of the room due to their design.
• Soot can be easily removed because it accumulates in one place. under the hood.

Brick

• Autonomy. That is, once you “fill up” the furnace, you can not worry about it for a long time.
• Heat retention. Brick structures do not conduct heat well, so it remains in them for a long time.

Cast iron

• Easy to install, requires no foundation.
• No fire hazard.
• Compact.
• They heat up quickly.
• Huge selection of stoves by appearance.
• No need for additional cladding.
• There are automatic cast iron stoves that independently regulate the temperature.
• High efficiency.
• Efficiency is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
• Low price.

Furnace with their own hands from bricks: for heating the house, the scheme of poryadovki, step by step instructions

Brick stove. is a familiar stove for heating and cooking, its reliability and efficiency has been proved by time. In the absence of gasification of the house and frequent power outages. It is an inexpensive way to cook and keep warm.

Brick oven is a time-tested way to warm up during the cold season and retain heat. It is suitable for heating a house for permanent residence, as well as for a cottage, which is visited once or twice a month. The design of the hob and oven allows the furnace to combine the functions of heating and a heat source for cooking. Although today more and more remote settlements are being gasified, the problem of natural gas availability is still acute. Even in the Moscow region, many garden communities and isolated estates and farms are far away from gas mains.

Build a furnace with their own hands out of bricks means at the lowest cost to solve the problem of heating in the house in a well-proven way. There are also situations when even the presence of gas on the site still does not make a brick stove a useless anachronism. I mean a bath. Unlike the Finnish sauna, which can also be electric, the Russian bath must necessarily be with a stove, and a brick oven is a traditional option, which only the convinced, consistent adherents of bathing art recognize. Therefore, the construction of a brick oven with their own hands will come in handy in the household, regardless of the conditions.

In addition, the real masters of the stove becomes less and less with time. Trust the masonry stove unproven specialist to risk not only the finances, but also the subsequent comfort and even fire safety. Isn’t it better to temporarily retrain as a stove-maker in conditions of shortage? At least you will have only yourself to blame for the mistakes you made.