What convenience does the water heater provide?
Maximum comfort is not a whim, but a necessity, so the range of various equipment is already quite great. Such abundance forces future owners to carefully study almost all designs. If we talk about boilers, more often users are interested in the question of why do we need a boiler in the heating system. They do not understand why buy an additional device, if there is a two-circuit boiler, which is quite able to cope with their tasks. heats the coolant for the heating circuits and provides water preparation for hot water supply.
Is it worth it??
Yes, the purchase of a boiler seems unreasonable, illogical waste of money. But only at first glance. In fact, boilers often become indispensable elements in private homes and cottages, where there is no opportunity to connect to centralized systems. One type of such devices becomes the only way to guarantee an uninterrupted supply of hot water to all its consumers. They are in the role of the coolant is an external source of heat. the central heating, boiler, etc. п.
Boilers are often installed in apartments where during repair and maintenance of communications hot water is disconnected for a long enough time. In addition, many residents of apartment buildings know firsthand about the disruptions that occur in the supply of hot water. Owners of private homes are often forced to deal with the organization of almost all engineering systems on their own. The most important of them. heating and DHW.
The discomfort of a two-circuit boiler is often experienced by large families, especially those with small children. However, all the problems with “then hot and then cold” water, surprises in the shower can be avoided by adding a boiler to the system, even a small one (35-50 liters).
What the presence of a boiler promises?
Boiler. a device that allows you to provide water to the owners, but do not depend on the work (interruption) of central communications and main equipment. Its advantages:
HOT WATER HEATING: How to Use a Tank-Style Water Heater
- hot water reserve for DHW;
- extremely low coefficient of heat loss;
- water heating that occurs in automatic mode;
- absolute safety of a correctly installed device;
- The chance to get hot water on the second floor, but not to pull a “string” of DHW there;
- ability to stay with hot water in case of breakdown of the main equipment;
- ease of operation: all that is needed is source of electricity and running water;
- possibility of raising the water to the upper floor if the boiler does not have sufficient capacity;
- versatility: boilers can be installed in apartments, vacation homes, cottages, offices, etc. д.;
- the chance to use the water heater as an expander in case of low pressure in the water mains, if the boiler does not perceive it as working pressure.
Boilers in the category of water heaters include heating boilers (gas heaters) that run on natural fuel. gas, or use electricity. The work of the first depends on the ability to connect to the gas mains. The latter devices are classics, because electricity is a “luxury” that is allowed in any home.
Where to place the device
Installation begins with the choice of location. It is recommended to place the heater near the heating boiler or outlet of central heating. The closer the unit is to the boiler, the more effective will be the process of heat transfer from the heating system to DHW.
Indirect floor heating boiler (left), installed next to the heating boiler (right).
Indirect water heater is located in the boiler room, and there are ways to mount and in the hallway, bathroom and other utility rooms. In these options is a significant loss of heat. If the consumers of hot water will be closer to the indirect heating boiler, the heat loss on the DHW will be significantly reduced and the time of delivery of hot water in the system without circulation will be reduced.
General rules of BNH placement
- The wall on which the boiler will be located, must be of the load-bearing type of concrete or brick. The unit must not be mounted on the foam concrete, wooden, plasterboard walls.
- The location is recommended to choose the closest to the distribution of central water communications.
- An electric socket must be nearby for easy direct connection.
- In the place where the device will be located, you should allow some space for easy repair work and maintenance.
- It is better to place horizontal or vertical types of equipment in an area close to the sewage pipes for water outlet from the storage system.
STB installation in the boiler room
There are four ways of installing an indirect heating boiler in the boiler room wall-mounted, horizontal, vertical and floor.
The first has a fitting for attaching to the wall surface, the second such detail of fastening is absent, in the complete set there are stands for floor location.
Wall-mounted models are small in size with a volume of 30 to 200 liters, floor models from 2001500 l. The system of installation on the wall is the same as that of a conventional electric water heater the same anchors and installation.
Important! When installing a boiler indirect heating, you must place pipes for supply and outlet coolant in the boiler side. Otherwise you will have to build a complex system of pipes, loops, angles and the pipeline will come out wrong. There should be two straight fittings that come from the heating system.
In contrast to conventional water heaters with this device the inlet pipe (for cold water) is mounted at the bottom of the storage tank and the outlet pipe (for hot water) is mounted on top.
Thus, the circulating fluid in a closed heating loop should circulate at a fixed temperature, which is achieved in the upper part of the tank.
Boiler of indirect heating with connection to the boiler
The main difference between such a device and a conventional water heater for heating the presence of an extraneous source of heating fluid. This can be solar panels, a boiler, central heating.
From such an auxiliary source on the coil, passing through the inside of the boiler, the coolant passes, which, in turn, heats the liquid in the tank.
This system is protected by a thermal insulation layer.
Features and review of heating boilers for private homes
Residents of apartment buildings rarely face heating problems, as they are connected to the central system and do not think about whether to heat the house with wood, gas or electricity. But in private homes have to install boilers, to reduce the financial costs of use and installation of which can be achieved through the use of heating electric boiler. Thanks to it the efficiency factor is improved. Also, the water supply becomes uninterrupted and the amount of water increases.
Boiler for heating private homes
Heating boiler has its own heating element inside the tank, usually electric. The device must be powerful. For each 10 m 2 dwelling requires 1 kW of heater capacity. For heating a small house or summer cottage, a capacity of 3-5 kW is enough. Boilers are available on sale, oriented to work in heating systems. Their power in specialized boilers raised to 7-10 kW, the volume of the tank has become more, it ranges from 10 to 450 liters. 150-250 liters are enough to heat a medium-sized house. The water inlet and outlet pipes are at different heights. In heating boilers their diameter is increased to 1.5-2 inches (30-48 mm). This provides better water circulation. If the length of the pipes of the heating system is long, the installation of a circulation pump.
Modern heating system is necessarily equipped with instrumentation and automation. A sensor for the temperature of the water in the storage tank is always installed. Automatics monitors this parameter and turns the heaters on and off at the right time. In this way the set water temperature is maintained in economic mode.
There is also a very important function. automatic continuous control of the load on the network. This is done to protect the power grid from overheating and increases fire safety.
When installing equipment in the system, the outlet pipe of the storage tank is connected with the inlet to the system or pump (if available), and the inlet. with the outlet of water from the heating system. The installation of shut-off devices for water shut-off during tank filling is obligatory. For hot water extraction, a separate outlet should be installed.
When installing the electrical scheme, it is necessary to provide an individual electrical switchboard with a circuit breaker and RCD installed in it.
After installation it is necessary to check the system for leaks, and after inclusion in the work to monitor it for 10-15 days to adjust the modes.
A simple way out of a difficult situation: how to make heating from a water heater with your own hands?
Not all private homes have a centralized hot water supply, especially when it comes to cottages.
Apartment buildings also sometimes suffer from the lack of hot water if the line is broken or for other reasons.
There is a simple way out of this situation installation of indirect heating boiler. It is economical, because it does not work in the heating season from the mains.
Flow-through water heater
A good solution for residential and technical facilities of small area flow-through water heater. The average capacity of the unit with a capacity of 2 kW is 12 l / min up to a temperature of 60 ° C. This device is suitable for both private cottages and holiday homes with non-permanent residence. It is used to provide hot water and heating. The advantages of a flow-through water heater:
- compact size, allowing to place the equipment at any free area of space;
- The small value of the inertness of heating;
- possibility of regulation of a temperature mode;
- integrated system of automatic shutdown of heating elements in the absence of coolant;
- a variety of models, differing in capacity and price.
The only disadvantage of such a unit is low efficiency, associated with a high cost of electricity.
Electric heating boiler
Since it turns out that so many people really (in all seriousness) want to make heating from improvised means, I am writing this warning.
I don’t like the idea of using various heaters inappropriately, and I strongly advise no one to do that in reality. This answer is only a theoretical discussion (blah, blah type).
A good question. The answer to that is “In most cases you can’t!”. But I will allow myself to get a hold of this issue and a little bit of theoretical.
What is a heating boiler in general and an electric heating boiler in particular? This is a sealed vessel, usually made of metal, which has an input for cold water and output for hot water. Here is a schematic picture of it:
Why have I pictured the cold water inlet at the bottom and the hot water outlet at the top?? Because the water rises as it heats up, and at the highest point, it is the hottest.
If you plan to do gravity heating, another condition is imposed. Inlets and outlets must be quite large in diameter. On factory heating boilers, including electric boilers, 20-50 kw, these diameters are at least 2″.
If your storage water heater has this configuration, it means that it is made just for heating water in the heating system. However, there are water heaters designed for heating water in water supply systems. They have a slightly different design. An example of such boiler design is shown in the following diagram.
We see the following principal differences.
These differences obviously will not allow us to use such a heater, even theoretically, in a gravity heating system, where water movement is due to the difference in density of hot and cold water. However, there is no problem if we will do the heating with a circulating pump and the heating scheme itself will not be too large and branched. For a heating system of a large house, more than 150 sq.m of heated area, it is necessary to increase the diameter of inlet and outlet pipes.
Thus, to build a small heating circuit with a circulating pump, you can use a storage water heater for water supply systems. You only need to increase its capacity. The power of such a heater can be calculated by referring to special reference books, but I do not think it will be less than 1 kW per 10 square meters of your heated space.
Here’s a question. Is it possible to use a flow heater for such a heating system? I suppose that the flow-through water heater is even better, because it already has the necessary capacity. Do not forget that we are considering a not very large heating system with a circulation pump.
As a conclusion, please note that these thoughts are theoretical in nature. If it is a question of saving money on the tank for heating, then I would make it myself, namely I would order in a factory according to the first scheme given. No special steel and no anti-corrosion treatment is needed for the heating tank. This circumstance makes such a homemade tank is definitely cheaper than the factory storage tank, and, moreover, a flow-through counterpart for water supply systems.
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Комментарии и мнения владельцев (24)
Hello,Could you advise whether the water heater can make a heated floor? And what is better, storage or flow?
Through a storage tank. likely not than yes. Power is not enough. Yes, and its function is different (storage). And here through a flow-through rather you can than can not. But you also need to look at the power. Yes, and automation is needed. You do not need boiling water in the floor.
Please tell me. There is a flow-through water heater for 6KW.Heated space of 50 sq. km.м. Can it be used for heating without installing a tank. What should be the connection scheme: open or closed? Thanks.
Actually, you can try. But there are nuances.
In fact, the flow heater is made to run not so long. Hands washed, turned off. It is absolutely unclear how it will work in the heating boiler mode. Well, let’s say, to wash their hands, wash and so the whole family. is 1 hour a day. And you want to turn it on around the clock, and for the whole season, probably?
What temperature will it maintain and whether or not the temperature will be somehow controlled? There has to be control!
I’ve always been against using things inappropriately. Something might not work as you’d like it to, or even be a risk to life and property. Either the device will simply wear out very quickly.
And an open system is not much different from a closed one. Closed system is just more comfortable, convenient and easier to live with. In a closed system, you can not refill the water as often as in an open system, for example.
Anyway, I wouldn’t recommend it! Or if you really experiment, then only after a thorough study of the issue. And if there is nothing else to do, that is in hobby mode.
Hello. Can you please tell me if there is a storage water heater principle as shown in the figure of 1.5 kW capacity and 60 liters would like to connect through it at least one radiator. In general, the whole system of connecting I understand that only one question worries the water heater will always be in heating mode or not. Since the circulation part of the heat will be lost.
nonsense full of nonsense for what to let the water heater for heating? (don’t reinvent the wheel)!
In general, all my Комментарии и мнения владельцев above are about the same, only in other words. But I’m not against creativity! You just have to do it without getting scalded and burning the house down.
Yes, I understand that you have a good understanding of this, but many people who are faced with this, often do not always read to the end and begin to globalize. But it doesn’t work. People spend a lot of money and effort. Why am I saying this? Because I work as an installer. In practice, a lot of heaters seen that make the inflamed minds. It gets creepy!
I mean, it’s better to ask an expert to explain. In theory “maybe it’s possible” and in practice “yes or no”.
YOU CAN NEVER PUT A HOT WATER HEATER ON THE HEATER!
People! Listen to the words of a professional! You can see that the man really saw a lot of things!
So, the water heater (as in figure 2), I can use in the heating system, but only with a pump?The heated area is 17 sq.m.м. An expansion tank and a safety group must be installed?
The second picture shows a heater for hot water
You can’t! It is not designed for this purpose it may not hold the load and that’s it !
Titanium can not be used as a boiler in principle.In a simple boiler outlet is up and there is usually a safety group with an air vent so the system is not airy. And in titanium how to do it? The hot outlet is from the bottom.The pipe goes up the tank. How do you get the air out of there?? No way. After a short circulation time air will collect there and the pump will stop pulling water, and it will not pull air to dump it somewhere else. I’ve been thinking about it myself.к. There are two 2kW titans lying around. I thought that would be enough for 40 square meters. But I did not even try just turned on my head. Good luck to those who want to try. The Plumber.
Guys, everything is much simpler than the devil you see here! First of all it is necessary to make the heat balance equation. We will proceed from the volume of space heating, heat loss of the same room, the presence of “boundary” walls, type of heating radiators, the diameter of piping, heat output of one section of the radiator. They write that the capacity of the storage water heater 2.5 kW is not enough. Why?? It won’t be cold water from the pipeline, but heated by the boiler and fed into a “homemade heating main”. Have to resort to the method of iteration, that is to take and count everything on a piece of paper. To improve the quality of water flow and get rid of the problem of collecting air in the storage tank, the circulating pump should be placed not after the tank, but before it, at a distance of 1-2 meters, in the line after the pump must include the tank-extender to avoid explosion of the boiler or bleeding coolant through the safety valve. Let’s start with a rough estimate. For example, an apartment has three rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom. In total it turns out that in the apartment 5 radiators. Radiators, as a rule, everyone’s home is different. You can ask the manufacturer of your radiators about the amount of heat given by one section into the room. If we multiply the heat emission of one section by the number of sections, we get the heat emission of one radiator in the pile of. If all sections are the same, just multiply by N more pieces. As a result, we have a heat output of the whole system. Do not forget to take into account the coeff. heat loss in the pipeline between the radiators and as a result we get the temperature at the end of our closed loop. Recall that the water in the tank will not go to 10, and even less degrees Celsius, and say 40, that is, the tank will need to heat it is not 1.5 hours, and say 25 minutes. That is, the tank will not work to the wear and tear. But for a more correct operation in the electrical circuit of all the equipment you will have to put a timer-relay. This relay will work on the condition: if, say, the temperature of the incoming water flow is more than 45 degrees, turn off the circulating pump, otherwise circulate further. The second condition: the downtime of the home heating system: if the automation stands idle for more than, say, 20 minutes, it will turn on. The scheme is not perfect, there are times when the inlet temperature will be a long time below the proper, you will have to work a little and manually with the tank automation, that is, set the temperature higher and adjust the timer-relay itself.
Smart people will say that it’s all fantastic, but who has time for such a hobby, you can try. Above, someone wrote in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев like why such a freak, put self-contained boiler, the answer: not allowed, only the court and it is unlikely to give permission, they can all take away in the gas or something else. The electric boiler goes on the power of 5 kW and above. And he uses 100% of the power all the time? no. Here I have an apartment 4 rooms, all December was warm outside, and I paid for heating 640 hryvnia. although the temperature in the apartment did not rise above 18 degrees, complaints to the plumber’s office gave nothing. This begs the question: why do I have to feed these freaks? Even if I do it based on 2 boilers, a month I will go no more than 350 USD for electricity. The most important thing in the implementation of the bold idea of self-made heating based on the boiler, choose the optimal size of the storage tank, because they all depending on the volume will be different time of heating water to a predetermined temperature. For selection of an optimum variant it is necessary to calculate approximately how much heat carrier will circulate through pipes and radiators. If you take bimetallic radiators in 10 sections, the average is 1.5-2 liters per radiator (this is not useless cast iron). Multiplying 5 radiators by 2 liters we have 10 liters in the radiators, and having the cross-sectional area of the pipes and their length, we find the volume of water in the pipes. Let’s take roughly another 10 liters.
Total system will be 20 liters of coolant tank volume. Optimal would be the volume of 80 liters, because for 4 circles of fluid in the system, I think the temperature of the radiators markedly increased and the timer-relay with a temperature sensor, there will be a command “stop machine”, have our there 50 or whatever degrees.
The biggest problem. system breakdown in winter. Have to Batman run to the store for a broken part (most likely related to heating water in the tank). Who knows? It’s all theory, although I think in practice to calculate the whole thing. On the nose will be a trial with the HOA to give the green light to the gas boiler, if not. get a headache)))). What’s up? Break the thought down completely. bringing it up for general discussion. If you have any questions. taras1005@
It’s really very simple. The minimum possible heat loss is 1 kW per 10 square meters. Perhaps in the apartment in the Ukraine this is observed. is no longer followed. Costs more. The house is even bigger, because there are more exterior walls.
Thus, for an apartment of 30 square meters in Ukraine and not very cold period should really suffice three kilowatts. But in this case they’ll work all the time. Without switching off. Total per day we get 24 hours for 3 kilowatts. Total 72 kWh. We have electricity in the suburbs at 4 rubles per kilowatt hour. The way I see it. it is 1 UAH. Thus, per month we get 2160 UAH. or 8,000.
It’s cheaper in practice. Why? I don’t know. Maybe you really have to try and everyone will have a different outcome. I was recently in one house on electric heating. Nice house. Warm. The same 8 thousand a month. But 110 squares.
Now the air. The air can’t be pumped out. And there’s nothing to try. Where not to put. there won’t be any circulation.
And the last. If you’re really looking for efficiency. So then you should not heat water in the boiler, but to hang convectors. Then there will be no unnecessary costs of heat and the efficiency is really close to 100%.
Well done, Taras. You know math well, but you probably have no idea how the water flows through the pipes. You can beat the air if you hang the titanium upside down :-)).