How to make a mushroom on the chimney with their own hands
The chimney takes out of the room gases from heating the building. protects the tenants from poisoning by harmful fumes. And what protects the chimney so that precipitation (rain, snow, hail), dust, birds, debris does not get inside through the chimney hole? Mushroom on the chimney solves the described problems.
Simple design, consisting of a “cap” and the cap for the chimney, protects the brickwork chimney from wind damage, increases the efficiency of the chimney to 20%, increases the draft.
Principle of operation of the fungus on the chimney
The air flow hits the walls of the upper cylinder and wraps around it. The air stream slides over the surface of the mushroom, rushing upwards. the smoke from the pipe is sucked in and expelled. The air in the chimney moves more intensely. the draft increases.
Solid-Fuel Boiler Presentation CGI animation
Wind streams may not move horizontally, but vertically or at an angle, but vane will work and in this case: the air streams will penetrate into the upper cylinder through the gap, carrying away smoke. Exception. downwind: under the hood will appear mini-vortices, slowing the exit of the smoke.
The purpose of installation determines the choice of design. a mushroom on the pipe ventilation can be in the form of a cover, an umbrella. Two other varieties. drip trays and water outlets. Umbrella shapes, covers protect the chimney opening from precipitation and dust. Drip pipes, water outlets localize trickling water, do not allow it to enter the building, prevent the icing of the upper fragments of the chimney in winter.
Forks are made of metal (colored, black) and vary in thickness, the presence of forged decorative elements. The most common variant. the product of galvanized sheet metal. Unitary design allows you to make such a mushroom on the chimney with their own hands for an hour and a half, if you have experience. for 10 minutes. The product can be ennobled by painting in harmony with the color of the roof shade.
Black steel. the material is expensive, but it looks modest due to the color, so steel models weathervane decorated with forged elements. The disadvantage of steel products. a large mass, so this option is not suitable for every roof.
On the market there are mushrooms from alloy steel, copper, strength. plus, high cost. minus. That is why such models are in limited demand.
The choice of material for the fungus. rather a matter of material capacity, as the functionality depends on the structure of construction. Buy a ready-made product. a quick solution, but if you want to make a mushroom yourself, it is not difficult. Let’s deal with the algorithm of actions.
Mushroom on the chimney with his hands
Before you start, prepare the necessary tools and supplies:
- Rubber or wooden cudgel,
- Sheet metal (thickness. 10 mm),
- metal scissors,
- Marker in a color that contrasts with the selected metal,
- metal corner (length. 1m, width. 0.5m),
- a pair of gloves for protection and convenience while assembling the product.
Before you start, measure the chimney. If there are several outlets for air / smoke on the roof, to measure each of them separately. Cap should be put on the chimney without effort, the basis of the cap make with a margin of 4-5 cm in diameter. preventive measures will not allow gas and smoke accumulate under the cap of the cap, creating a “dead zone”. Too tight a fit of the base to the chimney forms a thermal plug, preventing the escape of gases.
Tip: Before you make a mushroom on the chimney with his own hands, we recommend that you prepare a drawing on cardboard, try on the workpiece.
- Take a sheet of metal, measure out a rectangle of the desired size, cut it off.
- Make a blank for the cover in the form of a circle with a cut edge. from a rectangle cut a circle, cut a corner of 45 ° to the center.
- Bend the edges of the plate with a mallet (perimeter is optional, the sides of the cut triangle-corner. necessarily).
- Give a sloping bend to the workpiece. use the corner of the desk or a stable flat surface of an iron angle.
- Connect the workpieces along the fold lines, finish with a mallet.
- Correct the errors in shape, re-passing the workpiece on a flat surface. the cap is ready.
Tip: Before final assembly, check the flatness of the cap. place the cone on a flat surface (the edges should fit tightly, without swelling and crashes). If you intend to paint the product, before assembling clean the workpiece, prime, paint with rust-preventive compound and 2-3 coats of exterior paint.
If such a model you will conquer the chimney, you can try forces with more complex designs. Consistency is the key to success. Make your own fungus, ensure the comfort and safety of your home is easy. try it.
Properties of the construction
This design was invented along with the stovepipes. After the first structures were hit by snow, rain and even birds, protective caps were invented, which eliminated these problems. Over time, such a device began to complement the aesthetics. Since then, chimney caps have not only protected ceramic chimney pipes, but also beautified homes.
Cap on the chimney on the roof
How to clean the chimney of a solid fuel boiler from soot
Solid fuel boiler works only in conjunction with the chimney. With its help combustion products of fuel, namely harmful chemicals are discharged outside. If the chimney is not used properly or due to the peculiarities of its material it becomes clogged over time. Lack of cleaning can lead to extremely serious consequences, so at certain intervals it is necessary to rid the chimney of the products of combustion of fuel. How to do it, and are there nuances that must be adhered to during the chimney cleaning?
Should the chimney of a solid fuel boiler be cleaned?
Why clean the chimney of a solid fuel boiler ? First you need to understand the principle of the chimney. The point of installing a boiler is autonomous heating. Solid fuel boilers run on charcoal or wood, which as a result of combustion emit harmful gases. You can not allow them to get into the house, so you install a chimney. the chimney. Gases that move into the chimney, a very high temperature, and the air that enters the chimney, mix and form on the wall droplets. condensate. Since condensate consists partly of the vapor chemical elements of the products of combustion, it, settling, causes damage to the internal coating of the chimney. Condensation corrodes metal structures.
But condensation is not all that can happen to the chimney if it is not cleaned regularly. When burning fuel (fuel briquettes or wood) in addition to the gases remains and soot, and in large quantities, and if you are using wood from the resinous species, even more heavy volatile resins. All of these harmful components, moving along the chimney, combined with condensate and settle on the walls. When the boiler stops working, the chimney cools, and the resulting tarry crust hardens. And each time there is more and more of it. The passage of the chimney is narrowed, which leads to reduced draft, and reduced draft. not only a decline in the efficiency of the boiler, but also the possibility of harmful gases into the room, not to mention the possibility of ignition in the glowing. Therefore, take a responsible approach to this issue and periodically clean the chimney.
Ways to clean
How to clean chimneys and what you‘ll need to do it? The following are ways in which you can remove dirt in the chimney.
You cannot cope with lingering soot or soot deposits on the chimney walls using a normal powder or gel, since they only have a superficial action, and you need to completely destroy the hard tarry crust. Therefore, special chemicals are used here. They are presented as:
All of the above remedies do not have to be applied manually in any way. They are added directly to the firebox. Burning together with firewood, these reagents release special substances that, together with the gas rise up the chimney, settle on its walls and corrode plaque. Soot loses its density and adhesion to the chimney wall and simply crumbles down. You only need to clean the furnace from impurities afterwards. All of the above remedies are thrown into the furnace together with the wood in certain proportional ratios.
Solid fuel steam generators Wichlacz automatic fuel supply boiler
But you must understand that with a strong black hard layer adherence alone chemical solutions can not be saved, they will need to be combined with mechanical methods.
Even if you regularly clean the chimney with chemical solutions, without the mechanical cleaning you still can not do. Soot and a thick layer of tarry crust is not easy to remove, so the deposits must first be softened, and to achieve this effect can be just the same with special chemical solutions. For mechanical cleaning of the walls of the chimney are used:
Scraper used to clean the chimney walls, while brushes or brushes are more suitable for heat exchangers. If there is no revision hole or cesspool in the chimney, you will have to climb on the roof. First you will need to remove the chimney cap and use a scraper to scrape off dirt in accessible places. To get below, use a core and rope. By lowering and raising the rope, restore patency of the chimney. Before you perform the work necessarily take care of your safety. use safety equipment on the roof, wear gloves, safety mask, goggles and non-slip shoes.
How to prevent fouling
We have identified the cause of dirt in the pipe. It is impossible to prevent them completely, but it is possible to reduce their volume. How to do it?
- First, the chimney should be insulated. This can be done in different ways. with mineral wool, bricks or plaster. A small temperature difference between the outside and inside will reduce the amount of condensation.
- Secondly, carry out preventive cleaning of contaminants.
- Thirdly, do not use resinous varieties of wood as fuel, as they release heavy corrosive resins that create a dense crust when deposited on the surface of the pipe.
- Fourthly, do not throw trash, polyethylene and other debris into the boiler.
- Fifth, do not use wet firewood with a rate of more than 20% in order to prevent increased release of moisture and condensation.
In addition to the chimney also requires periodic cleaning of the boiler and heat exchanger. They also tend to get clogged, which leads to a deterioration in the performance of the heating system.
Also, the production of soot can be reduced by complete combustion of fuel, so the boiler should work at full power, if the heating system allows. And all of the above recommendations for eliminating dirt in the chimney should not be observed separately, but as a whole. Not unimportant is also the type of chimney itself, as well as what material it is made of. The pipe made of brick is the most susceptible to fouling.
The nuances of chimney cleaning
Before you start cleaning your chimney, first familiarize yourself with important details that will allow you to do the planned work quickly and efficiently.
- Before you begin mechanical cleaning of the chimney, first soften the impurities with chemical powders.
- Chimney cleaning should be performed when the boiler is completely cooled down.
- If there are too many deposits, then carry out cleaning with warm coolant for easier removal.
- Measure the diameter of the chimney before buying a brush or brush.
- Cleaning is carried out through a special technological plug (if available) and there is not always a need to climb on the roof.
- When using chemicals. powders, granules, briquettes, be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging.
- Chimney cleaning should be performed regularly before the start of the season and starting the boiler, as well as after the end of the heating season. If there is a heavy accumulation of soot and a thick layer of dirt, clean it every 2-3 months.
Following these simple tips will allow you to achieve the desired result. quality cleaning of the chimney and ensure proper operation of the boiler. After all the work be sure to check how you coped with the task, to do this, use a flashlight. Also inspect the chimney for its integrity, if you have not damaged the walls when lowering the core. This also applies to the furnace of a solid fuel boiler, check that no pieces of rope or particles from the ruff fell into the furnace from above. Quality cleaning is also evidenced by the absence of unpleasant odor after starting the boiler.
Basic mounting rules
Installing the chimney directly depends on the design features of the supplementary element and the chimney, as well as the material used in the manufacture. On the basis of standard rectangular sheet steel, it is easiest to create a four-sided pyramidal umbrella by bending a sheet of material a couple of times in a diagonal direction.
This option is traditional for the arrangement of chimney pipes on four pitched roofs, but to attach posts and further installation is necessary to use additional elements in the form of angles, as well as drilled holes.
Have a less complicated structure simple vaulted umbrellas with a minimum number of folds and notches. Fixation of such a flue on the oval chimney pipe is carried out at the expense of the presence of racks bent from sheet steel of sufficient thickness or made with the use of standard metal corners.
Regardless of the method of manufacture, the posts can be secured in several ways:
- on metal and asbestos chimney pipes you can use a metal clamp or make your own conventional wire frame;
- The wire for the frame base should be as strong and reliable as possible;
- The posts have mounting holes drilled into them;
- the leads of the twisted wire frame are passed through the fixing holes on the posts and twisted until the smoke umbrella is completely secured.
On brick chimneys for fixing the “umbrella” can be used even standard galvanized nails of sufficient length, embedded directly in the masonry. However, as practice shows, it is best to pre-drilled holes in the posts of the umbrella to drill holes in the brickwork, and then fix the cap on the chimney with steel pins or galvanized self-tapping screws.
In this case, if necessary, you can quickly and with minimal effort yourself to dismantle the umbrella for cleaning or replacement.
Keep in mind that when using as a stand-alone heating gas system, installing an umbrella on the chimney is categorically not recommended.
What to put at the tip of the chimney umbrella or deflector?
According to building regulations deflector on the outlet of gas boilers can not be put. This is due to the fact that in winter due to low temperatures of the outlet flow on the horizontal parts of the pipe icicles are formed, worsening the draft. Deflector same picture only worsens. Therefore, at the exit of gas boilers are placed only simple umbrellas to protect against debris and precipitation.
Aerodynamic hoods on the chimney. One of the options
Deflectors experts recommend installing on the metal pipe boilers that run on solid fuel. In all other cases, chimney caps are recommended. The form of the hood is chosen according to the shape of the chimney: round umbrellas are usually put on round, square and rectangular. in the form of a small pitched roof. Keep in mind that the chimney-sandwich chimneys should have a special skirt that will cover the insulation. For brick chimneys, it is recommended to make a cap with a base that will cover all the bricks that protrude above the roof.
Not a very good attitude among experts to weathervane: the constant vibration and considerable weight rather quickly destroy even capitally built pipes. So if you wanted to have a weather vane, think carefully about it: it not only adversely affects the chimney, but also itself quickly worn out due to the constant friction.
Do you need a chimney cap for a gas boiler?
Canopies on chimneys photo
For what you need a cap on the chimney?
Now on the market a huge selection of canopies. They can have a cone shape or be made in the form of a vane, differ in appearance, size and other parameters. To make a simple design from stainless steel sheet with the tool and minimal metalworking skills can be done independently.
Hoods are installed on the chimney caps for this purpose:
The design prevents wind from blowing into the chimney, which can lead to back draft and combustion products inside the room.
Hood for the chimney can serve as a decorative function and complement the exterior of the house, to emphasize its special architectural style. In this case, install areas with decorative ornaments.
The umbrella protects the brick structure from precipitation and wind, so it can last for a longer time.
The visor prevents leaves and other debris from getting inside.
Canopy with a mesh. an effective solution to prevent birds from nesting inside the chimney.
Do not believe the manufacturers claims that the installation of the cap allows to provide a good draught. The element of metal not only does not improve the draft, but also worsens it, since it prevents the outflow of combustion products outside. The only exceptions are constructions with deflectors, but that is a completely different story.
Insulation of the chimney of the solid fuel boiler in a private home
Autonomous heating system involves not only the installation of boiler equipment, but also the installation of the chimney to flue harmful gases that result from the combustion of fuel (wood or fuel briquettes). If the chimney is not placed inside, but outside, it is mandatory to insulate it. Insulation can be carried out by different materials, but it is important to follow a certain order. Proper chimney operation will not only extend its life, but will also increase the efficiency of the solid fuel boiler.
Should the flue of solid fuel boiler be insulated?
If you have purchased a chimney in the form of sandwich pipes with insulation, then you can not worry about their functionality. They are made in the form of cylinders, which are already filled with insulation. For all other options, you should think about how to insulate the chimney pipe? Why at all insulate flue ducts of solid fuel boilers? ? Since solid fuel boilers operate at high power, they provide heat production at extremely high temperatures, resulting in gases from the combustion of fuel moving into the chimney, the walls of which are also heated. And since the outside temperature is much lower than inside, condensation is formed.
Especially dangerous action of condensate becomes in the spring, when the thawing of pipes.
Condensate. is not just water, it is a liquid with low acidity, which, settling on the walls of the structure, can destroy it. In addition, the release of soot in the chimney and other chemical elements from the products of combustion, they join the condensate, solidify and form a crust. A large amount of it leads to a narrowing of the passage, which reduces the draught. Lack of proper draught in the chimney will not only lead to reduced efficiency of the boiler, but also to the penetration of carbon monoxide into the room, which can pose a threat to the residents of the house.
Advantages and disadvantages of insulated chimney
What advantages you get if you insulate the chimney?
- It eliminates the accumulation of condensation on the walls of the chimney and its destructive effect on the coating of pipes.
- Warming allows harmful vapors to escape faster after burning fuel.
- Decreases the temperature drop between the outside and inside walls of the chimney, which increases its service life.
- Increases the strength of the construction.
- Insulation acts as a reinforcing frame in bad weather conditions if the chimney is located in the street.
- The energy-saving effect, which will reduce heat loss in the chimney and thereby save on fuel for heating the chimney.
As for the disadvantages, there are virtually none, and you can not call them disadvantages. Thermal insulation, firstly, affect your budget, as you will need to purchase the necessary materials, and secondly, the pipe with a thick layer of insulation weighs much more, and its weight can cause damage to the roof or foundation. So take care of this issue in advance.
Materials for insulation
What can be used to insulate the chimney? What are the ways you can properly insulate a chimney used for venting a solid fuel boiler?
If you have a chimney lined with brick, then the appropriate option for insulation will be plaster. This method is called “insulation plastering”. Prepare in advance a slag-lime mortar, which is applied layer by layer to the brick chimney. However, between the layers you need to use a reinforcing mesh, because without a frame such insulation will crack very quickly and lose its functional abilities.
The total number of layers should be at least 3, and preferably 5. They are applied with a trowel, in the usual building variant. Each layer should not be more than 3 cm thick. But before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must dry. With this method you can minimize heat loss by 25%, but it is not considered the most effective and is inferior to the basalt insulation. In addition, under the influence of high temperatures and bad weather conditions plaster deteriorates over time.
The method of insulation with broken bricks is used quite rarely. It is suitable for metal chimneys. For its implementation, you need a casing of steel or zinc, which is created around the diameter of the pipe. The difference between the diameter of the chimney and the diameter of the casing should be at least 120 mm. In the resulting empty hole is filled with insulation. broken bricks. But before you fill the brick, it is very important that the casing consists of several sections, and the height between the sections did not exceed 150cm. This will allow a tightly tamped brick. Sections are inserted into each other, like links, and the very last one is cemented.
Insulation of the chimney with basalt wool is considered the most rational and effective solution. Basalt wool is an environmentally friendly product and does not emit hazardous substances when heated strongly. It retains heat well, eliminates fungus and rotting. The coating is not afraid of moisture and ultraviolet light. Compared with other listed methods of insulation of the chimney, basalt wool takes first place.
To work with basalt insulation you will need a minimum set of tools. You will only need to have a knife, tape measure and tape. The wool should be placed around the chimney without gaps. If the size of the plates was larger than required by the crate, then use a knife to trim a little. The most effective is to lay basalt wool in several layers, but then after the second shift coating so that the joints do not coincide, and were in different places, thereby not giving access to air. The joints are glued with a construction adhesive tape. After completing the installation of insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. The final stage is cladding with metal siding or plaster.
Basalt wool is considered the best insulator for solid fuel boilers. In addition, it is a budget option that will serve you for decades.
All of the above methods for insulating the chimney are effective and will reduce heat loss chimney is practically twice. But if you evaluate all the advantages of each material, the first place is taken by the basalt wool. Regardless of the chosen method of insulation, it is important to follow safety precautions. The result of insulating the chimney is its reliable and durable operation without destructive effects on the heating system.
Hargassner Heating Technology. Wood log Boilers
What kind of thermal insulation to choose
Properly selected and correctly installed insulation will improve the quality of the heating system and its protective functions. As for the choice of insulation for the chimney, then take into account the following recommendations:
- For chimneys made of ceramic, steel or asbestos, basalt wool is ideal, but only if it is used properly as insulation will it meet all the stated characteristics.
- If the chimney is made of brick, you can use plaster or foam blocks.
- Before buying insulation, study its degree of resistance to high temperatures, humidity and UV.
- If the chimney goes on the roof, then give preference to lightweight materials. polyethylene or foam.
- Take into account the configuration of the pipe and its location.
Thus, when choosing insulation for the chimney, consider several important evaluation criteria. Also compare between each material’s listed pros and cons. In addition, not all of the presented types of insulation will be suitable for different pipes and their designs. For example, for chimneys placed in the ground or in the street, the threat of rats, which can not dig only glass wool. So approach the issue of choice comprehensively. Well if you compare all the presented materials, the first place can safely be given to basalt wool. It is superior to brick and stucco in all respects, and everyone can afford it.
What to do if condensate forms in the chimney of solid fuel boiler
The result of firing up the boiler is the formation of condensation not only in the heat source, but also in the chimney At first glance it may seem. and that there is no problem? In the process of burning fuel (fuel briquettes or firewood) the released chemical gases and soot combine with condensate (light acid solution) and a solid crust appears, which is destructive to the chimney system and the solid fuel boiler How to reduce the amount of condensate mass, to what the lack of preventive measures to eliminate condensate and what are the main causes of this phenomenon?
Where does condensation come from?
What is condensate?? The first thing we think of when we hear the word “condensate” is water. Yes, it is a liquid that forms on the walls of the surface in the form of droplets. However, the condensate in the heating system from the combustion of fuel has a different chemical structure. It consists of low concentration acid. Where does it come from?? There are several reasons for that:
- First, water is released from the air that enters the boiler, the temperature of which is much lower than that of the gases released during the combustion of fuel, so it settles on the metal walls of heating equipment.
- Second, when a solid fuel boiler starts up, the water that is in the system is still cold, and the one in the boiler warms up much faster. Condensate forms as a result of a large temperature difference.
- Thirdly, when using wet firewood for kindling, moisture is also released, which subsequently settles on the walls of the chimney. Although the manufacturers specify that the percentage of humidity of firewood should not exceed 20%, but not all users of solid fuel boilers comply with this requirement.
- Fourthly, the formation of tarry droplets in the chimney is due to the use of fuel based on resinous species, such as pine and spruce.
But apart from the above mentioned reasons, the most frequent one, which causes rapid destruction of the boiler walls, heat exchanger and chimney, is wrongly calculated capacity of the solid fuel boiler.
How it happens in practice? Often users knowingly install a more powerful boiler, to delay the time of throwing in the next portion of fuel, but do not think about the fact that in the combustion chamber due to reduced demand it does not burn completely, but simply smolders for a longer time. The result of slow smoldering is the formation of tar drops on the inner walls of the boiler, which do not evaporate, harden and eventually turn into one big crust, which reduces the efficiency of the boiler and leads to rotting of its walls.
Possible problems with the chimney
So, condensate is not just moisture, but a weak acid solution, which settles not only on the walls of the boiler, heat exchanger, but also the chimney. On the walls of the outlet pipe condensate accumulates either because of improper operation of the boiler, or because of the wrong choice of chimney. In both the first and the second cases, the chimney will collect up to 60% of the condensate during firing. Most of all immune to such consequences chimneys made of stainless steel, where moisture flows down the walls of pipes, but for brick, cast iron or ceramic materials, such a problem can not be avoided.
Condensate that is not eliminated in time, hardens, turns into a crust that requires cleaning of the chimney from soot It not only destroys the coating of the chimney, but over time, narrows its passage, and thus reduces the draft. If the chimney is heavily contaminated, the draft may disappear at all. In such a case the operation of the heating system is not possible.
It is also necessary to remember that condensate consists not only of resins, which harden when the temperature of the walls decreases, but also contain acidic masses, they slowly corrode the metal coating, especially if you bought an inexpensive chimney, not covered with corrosion protection. Thus, the presence of condensate in the chimney is no less destructive than on the boiler. In both cases it can lead to poor operation of the heating system or its complete cessation.
How to get rid of condensation
It is important to understand that you can not get rid of condensate completely, but you can significantly reduce its volume, which will not so aggressively affect the operation and efficiency of the heating system. Here are two of the most effective ways.
Proper operation and strapping of the boiler
First it is necessary to understand the cause of condensation. If you have a very powerful boiler, you must connect a heat accumulator. It can absorb a part of the energy produced in excess and prevent the fuel from smoldering for a long time. The presence of a buffer tank will not only lead to savings on heating, but also allow the boiler to work at full, while reducing the residual soot. Working in intensive mode allows you to create an extremely high temperature, at which the condensate evaporates and does not remain on the walls of the boiler, heat exchanger and chimney.
If you have a heat accumulator installed, but the problem with condensate is not solved, then it is worth to properly bind the boiler. The scheme of action is as follows:
- When you start the heating system after it has cooled down completely, do not start the circulating pump immediately, but only when the temperature reaches 50 degrees. However, this method is only suitable for boilers with a steel heat exchanger, but in no case for cast iron, as it simply can not withstand the pressure and break.
- Don’t forget the safety group that allows you to control pressure and temperature levels. Safety and control elements are installed together with the mixing unit.
- Thermostatic valves, which also help control the temperature level, can help with the condensate problem. They can be distributive and mixing. The latter is installed on the return loop system, closer to the solid fuel boiler, and the distribution. on a small loop, after the circulating pump.
If the boiler is tied up in accordance with the above scheme, then 20 minutes after starting the system the coolant will flow into the main circuit. Small differences in temperature will avoid extremely large condensation.
The meaning of this scheme is that with the participation of the distribution valve, the coolant flows through the small circuit, and after heating slowly passes to the large heating circuit. Such strapping allows to warm up the system smoothly and avoid overheating of the coolant, thereby reducing condensation to a minimum. And if the temperature in the heat exchanger will be at 50 degrees, then the formation of condensation is not terrible for heating equipment.
Choosing a quality fuel
In the causes leading to condensation, we listed the output of moisture contained in the wet wood or the use of wood from resinous species of trees. spruce or pine. All of this must be completely eliminated. Particularly dangerous for the chimney. What is best to use to fire a solid fuel boiler?
All of the above fuel is not only safe for the boiler and chimney, but also burns longer, creating a high temperature. Be sure to check the fuel for dryness and exclude resinous wood to be as safe as possible from condensation production. It is best to give preference to pellets, but because of their considerable cost not everyone can afford this type of fuel. As a good alternative is coal. It has high technological parameters, practically does not emit any harmful substances, it is quite convenient and profitable in kindling.
What happens if you don’t remove the condensate
As you have understood, condensate is not just water, it is a low-concentration acid, which can quickly corrode the walls of the metal structures of heating equipment, including the chimney. In the absence of any action, condensate can destroy the surface in a season of active operation of the boiler: improper strapping boiler, the lack of heat accumulator, the use of unsuitable wood and other operational violations.
Condensate does not just stick to the walls of the boiler, heat exchanger or chimney, it attaches particles of soot and gases during the fuel processing, which are routed through the chimney. Each time there are more and more of them, they form a thick layer, which is very dense and reduces the functional characteristics of the heating system as a whole.
- Firstly, it has destructive properties for the metal coating.
- Secondly, the thickening of the crust reduces the efficiency of the boiler.
- Thirdly, it disrupts the heat transfer from the boiler to the heat transfer medium.
- Fourthly, sticking to the walls of the chimney, makes the passage narrower, thereby reducing the draft.
In addition to all the negative effects of condensation and the formation of dense tarry deposit create a fire hazardous situation, since the products of combustion stuck on the walls of the boiler can ignite.
Thus, you should not neglect such a process, as the formation of condensation during heating. It can settle not only on the chimney, but also on the metal walls of the heating equipment, which will subsequently lead to destruction. So you should do regular cleaning, at least once a month. And if the boiler has a shaped heat exchange system, even more often. Regulatory work to remove the tarry crust is carried out with special chemical solutions.