Dutch stove: varieties of designs and recommendations for masonry
Despite the perfection of new technologies that have found their application in modern boiler plants, much interest continues to cause heating devices that came to us from the past. stoves. They are good in that they do not require water heating systems and everything associated with them, and at the cost of building a stove can compete with modern heating. There are several types of them, schemes and designs of stoves have been known since ancient times and are freely available. A small country house can easily heat a Dutch oven made of bricks.
Detailed instructions for assembly
Build a Dutch oven with their own hands is not so difficult. our step by step guide will help you in this. We will use a simple scheme of a small-sized stove for small buildings. For example, you can use it to heat the cottage. Start assembling it is necessary to begin with the simplest. with the purchase of tools and necessary materials. To assemble the stove you will need:
Using high-quality fireclay bricks is not a whim, but a guarantee of reliable fire safety. So it is not worth saving on its purchase in any case!
- Regular bricks. a few hundred pieces.
- Fireproof (fireclay) bricks. a few dozen pieces.
- Clay for clay mortar. used to bind bricks.
- Doors for the furnace, the ash-pan and the grate. sold in hardware and specialty stores (go where they sell stoves and accessories for building your own saunas and saunas).
You will also need tools. a hammer for knocking up bricks, a trowel to work with mortar, a spirit level to level the masonry, string to control the vertical position of the masonry, tools for cutting bricks, steel wire to tie the doors and asbestos cord to gasket between the brick and the doors. The rest we will remember and mention as we go along.
Preparation of the foundation
In this review, we will focus on the traditional unit without a cooking surface. Dutch oven with a stove with their own hands collected in a similar way, but according to a different pattern. You only need to find a suitable assembly scheme. You will also need to buy a cast-iron cooking surface. such things are sold there, where the doors with grate grates (we wrote about it a little above).
Prepare the site for the foundation. the Dutchman must stand on a solid base of concrete, not on a wooden floor. This is the main difficulty in carrying out the work. It is necessary to dismantle the floors and reach the base of the house, build a wooden formwork and pour the future foundation. If there are no floors yet, feel free to dig a hole 50-60 cm deep. Next, we lay the layers:
The future screed should be reinforced. Buy rebar with a diameter of 8-10 mm, cut it into bars of suitable size with an angle grinder, make a grid with a mesh size of 10×10 cm. The grid must be placed in the thickness of the concrete screed. Pour the concrete. the height of the base above the ground is 15 cm. Our foundation for a Dutch oven is ready, but don’t rush to assemble it. let the concrete harden.
As for the clay mortar, leave it for the professionals. they know how to properly prepare the clay and how to make a strong mortar of it. For amateurs there are special refractory mixtures for fireplaces and stoves on sale.
Small Dutch oven masonry
We will assemble the oven according to the following furnace layout. It consists of 36 simple rows. At the output we have an impressive stove with enough power to heat a small house.
The first two rows are solid. they form the base of the Dutch oven. Simply lay the bricks as shown and join them with mortar. Tap the bricks with the back of a hammer or wooden mallet, and fill the gaps between them with clay or refractory mixture.
On the third row lay the side cleaning doors. through them the internal flue ducts of the Dutch oven are cleaned. From here the chimney ducts begin. On the fourth and fifth rows we put the ash door. Pay attention to the attachment of the doors. they are tied with steel wire, the ends of which are put between the bricks. Asbestos cord is placed between the metal and the bricks.
In the sixth row the chimney channels go on, and in the seventh row there is an innovation. here starts the masonry of refractory brick that forms the beginning of the combustion chamber. At this stage we fix the grate. Starting from the eighth row the Dutchman furnace is widened in depth. In the next rows we continue laying the smoke channels. On the thirteenth row we finish the construction of the combustion chamber. It is narrow, but quite high.
Rows 14, 15 and 16 are similar. Starting from the 17th row the firebox of the Dutchman stove ends and in the 18th row it is gone. Next in the row 19 we install another cleaning door. Their abundance allows you to clean the flue ducts at any time without destroying the stove. The main body of the Dutchman ends on the 24th row. starting from 25 up goes the chimney.
There are many versions of masonry stoves of Hollandka type. In any case, you should have a compact vertical unit. Dutch oven round in a metal casing requires skill in working with a welder for its assembly. Such models are characterized by increased compactness, and the cooking tops are usually absent.
Finishing work
It is not forbidden to use special logs “Chimney Sweep” for cleaning the Dutch oven. Read the instructions for the log. this will help avoid mistakes.
Our Dutch oven is ready, but it is still a long way to go. First you need to let it dry usually this stage is 21 days. During this time, the concrete screed will fully mature, the refractory clay mortar will harden. If a beautiful smooth brick is used for lining, you can start testing. If you plan to finish with ceramic or tile, feel free to begin the work.
Testing of the Dutch oven starts with checking the draught. To do this, a piece of paper or a newspaper is lit in the firebox. If the design corresponds to the scheme, the draught will be excellent. After that, we sweep out the ash, put in large pieces of wood, and put scraps of paper and small chips between them. We kindle the fuel, close the furnace door, open the ash-pit. Now our Dutch oven has to heat up. As soon as it gets warm in the room, the draft can be reduced. close the ash-pit. Now it is necessary to put more and more firewood in the furnace from time to time.
Remove ash from the ash-pan as it is accumulated, it is recommended to perform this operation at least once every 1-2 days. Two or three times a year the furnace should be heated to the maximum, which will help to avoid the tar.
In the classical version, the Dutch oven is purely a heating stove with a one-brick wall, it has a rectangular shape, with extended chimney channels above the furnace. That is why it heats well with low fuel consumption: The hot smoke heats the bricks of the inner channels and significantly cooled comes out the chimney. In the beginning, these ovens were originally tiled.
This is how the classical Dutch oven without the grate and the ash drawer look like from the inside. The peculiarity of any stove of this type is the presence of the smoke channels in the upper part
In the same classic Dutch stove, the outlet of the flue pipe is on the side: the Dutch paid taxes on smoke, so there were several stoves in a common pipe. And there is no problem with smoke formation in less heated stoves: long flue ducts are not easy to blow, even with a reverse draft.
So look modern stoves tiled with tiles (the prototype of tiles)
All this, and even plasticity of design has led to the fact that there are many forms of furnaces-hollandok: in addition to the traditional rectangular and square, there are triangular, trapezoidal and round. Just as many use options: purely heating, heating and cooking, with a log cabin, one, two or three stories, with a fireplace, a water heating tank and with a water heating tank. No wonder this design is popular. And everything is so simple that anyone who has laid a brick wall with banding at least once can lay a hollandka with his own hands. If you want to try your hand as a stove-maker, choose a Dutchman poryadovka and get to work.
Advantages and disadvantages
- For masonry stoves-hollanders require little material. about half as much than a similar Russian stove. The result is a low weight, which can withstand almost all types of floors without too many problems.
- Its design is such that it can be adjusted to the required size, without much fear of significant degradation of performance. The minimum size of the Dutch oven. 5050 cm.
- It is undemanding to the quality of materials: margin of safety and design are such that stoves-hollandsky not afraid of the possible thermal deformations. It is desirable to use quality fireclay bricks for masonry firebox, for the body can take any more or less normal corpulent ceramic brick.
- Plasticity of design: in the area of the chimney channels you can build a water tank, an oven.
- The ducts above the furnace can be pulled out for several floors: two or even three floors is not a problem.
- After the long downtime of the Dutchman, it does not need to warm up slowly. Immediately you can sink to warm up the room: there will be no cracks. It heats up quickly and cools down slowly (if you do not forget to close the damper).
There are many advantages, and all of them are weighty. But there is nothing without disadvantages. This miracle of heating technology also has them:
- Demanding to the quality of fuel. In the sense that to heat with wood or coal, not with garbage or garbage. It is optimum in the smoldering mode, but not in the burning mode, and when burning sawdust, brushwood or straw there is nothing to smolder.
- If after the heating period you forget to close the grate, it cools down very quickly: The heat is carried away through the channels.
- Low efficiency. about 40%.
- Since it takes a little brick, the heat capacity is also small. Therefore, to maintain a stable temperature, it is necessary to heat it at least twice a day. And it can not overheat: it can even go carbon monoxide.
- If you use wet low-quality fuel, the ducts quickly get soot and have to be cleaned often.
As you can see, the main disadvantages are associated with the peculiarities of operation. If done right, a Dutch oven is an excellent heating device.
And this miracle is also a heating stove galanka in the chambers of the metropolitan
Materials and tools
For the effective work of the stove to calculate its size. They will depend on the size of the heated room.
Important information! Based on the results obtained materials are purchased.
Brick variants
To build a Dutch oven, which will heat a room with an area of 40 m2. you need the following items.
- Two hundred ordinary bricks;
- 50 pieces of refractory bricks;
- Door and wire to fix it;
- roofing felt;
- Metal pipe for the chimney;
- latch.
- trowel;
- level;
- pick;
- tape measure;
- plumb line;
- angle piece;
- Asbestos cord;
- Capacities for mortar;
- stairs.
With the cooker
If it is planned to install a hob in the stove, it must be included in the list in advance. Other tools and materials remain the same.
Foundation and rowing
Ideally, the foundation should stand for 30 days, at least 7 days. A roofing felt is placed on it to prevent the ingress of moisture. With the help of a level, cover the sand (up to 5 cm). Now the foundation is fully prepared for laying the bricks.
The layout of the stove
Before laying in its place, the brick is immersed in water for 2-3 seconds (then it will not absorb water from the mortar).
- Lay the 1st row of bricks without mortar, and the 2nd and 3rd. with mortar. The position of normal red bricks. horizontal.
- Starting from the 4th row, bricks are placed with an edge. Here you need to use the yellow refractory brick. Joints should not be more than 0.5 cm.
- To clean the ash on the back side a dismountable wall is made (bricks are not cemented with mortar) or a door covered with a non-combustible material is installed.
- The 7th row is placed in the same way as the 1st and 2nd rows, except for the back wall (it is placed with an edge).
- The 8th row is laid obliquely to “tie” the firebox.
- Row 9 is slightly shifted for possible installation of a hob.
- The future chimney is embedded in the 10th row.
- 29 and 17 rows. install the damper. 11th row. install the damper, make out the chimney entrance in the furnace.
- In the 16th and 17th rows holes are laid for cleaning.
- From rows 18 to 24. the channels of the stove are formed.
- 25-28 rows. overlaps of the channels are laid, leaving the chimney hole.
- 29th row. the shutter is put in place.
- 30th row. the chimney brickwork is completed.
The finished construction is painted and decorated. The gaps between the Dutchman and the floor are closed with a skirting board. The stove can be used in 2 weeks.
Important: all this time it will dry.
If desired, you can build such an oven with a fireplace or a stove. But in this case you will have to change some familiar to the Dutch stove parameters (including the expansion of the base).
Floor plan
The layout of the Dutch oven can be seen in picture 4.
Basic rules of arrangement
Unlike the Russian stove, which is very versatile, as source of heat, and laying, and a place to cook food, the Dutch oven was originally created only as a means of heating.
In order to maximize the functionality of the foreign hearth, Russian stove builders added a cooking surface. Such a Dutch oven with a stove and an oven is ideal for a small house, as well as in case you do not want to clutter the room with a voluminous stove.
The technology of the unit is quite simple. The stove is placed in the niche of the structure, just above the furnace, about the third fifth row. The oven is built parallel to the furnace.
Opinion of the expertNikolai DavydovStove with 15 years of experienceIf the cooking surface is not needed, then the oven is placed directly above the furnace, but still advise you not to ignore the stove: firstly, it will never be superfluous, and secondly, there are excellent design solutions for furnace arrangement, where the cooking surface perfectly complements the appearance of the Dutchman.
Photo furnaces Hollandok with a stove and oven (located at the same level as the furnace):
LAZY MAN’S POT ROAST
“Small Dutch oven for country houses
Such a compact design can be heated with coal and wood, and heat a room with an area of 16-20 sq. meters. You can see what the layout looks like in the picture below.
Repeating the belt 17,19, 21 and 18, 20, 22 rows, the size of the stove can increase in height. A small dacha Dutch oven is made with the dimensions 520×520 millimeters.
The preparatory stage. arrangement of the foundation
Despite the relatively low weight of the Dutch oven with a stove, the stove needs to be pre-equipped with a foundation. It can be made in two ways. with bricks or cement mortar. Each option has its own characteristics:
- With free ingredients in the form of sand and gravel, pouring a cement mixture will cost less. Although the process is characterized by increased labor intensity, even when using a concrete mixer.
- The foundation for the Holland brick foundation will cost more, but it is much easier to make it.
Let’s take a closer look at the method of forming a foundation for a stove with a slab based on concrete mortar. It is necessary to do the following steps:
- Prepare a foundation pit of no less than 0.5 m deep. The area of the base must be slightly larger than the size of the future Dutch oven.
- Make a bed of gravel 10-15 cm thick, which must be carefully compacted.
- To install the formwork and make the reinforcing frame of metal rods 1 cm thick.
- Prepare the cement-sand mortar and gradually pour the reinforcing structure.
- In the end of the process the foundation of the hollandaise is covered with cement powder.
Depending on the region and weather conditions, the slab stove foundation should build up strength. The period can last from one to four weeks.
Tools and building materials
To build a Dutch oven with your own hands will require the following materials:
- Raw materials for creating the foundation base;
- mortar for bonding;
- Refractory and plain solid bricks;
- oven doors;
- sheets of metal;
- steel wire;
- asbestos cord.
Basic tools are needed: a trowel for applying mortar, a hammer or sledgehammer for tamping, an angle grinder for trimming bricks, plumb, level, tape measure.
For the construction of the Dutch House is quite acceptable building material of low quality, and even previously used. When chipped bricks are used, the rough side is set on the outside. As for the mortar, in terms of consistency it should resemble sour cream. You can make it yourself from sand, clay and water, or buy ready-made in a construction store.
Cement does not have a high resistance to heat, so you should not use it for masonry. When making the mortar yourself, break the clay into small pieces, pour in water and wait for it to be absorbed. Mix it with sifted sand in the ratio of two to one. Stir well and add water. 1/8 of the total volume. Prepare the mortar a couple of days before the start of construction.
