Volkswagen Polo Sedan 2012, petrol engine 1.6 л., 105 л. с., Front-wheel drive, automatic transmission. observation
Volkswagen Polo, 2014
Комментарии и мнения владельцев 63
Same thing, 0 degrees is nothing, the temperature rises and no airflow, so it turns on, my friend in Japan, even at idle the fan turns on every 20 seconds, runs for 10 seconds and then turns off and it is normal. It’s different on the Polo, it gets up to 97 degrees, turns the fan on speed 1, condemns it to 87 and stops. The 2nd speed is turned on at 103 degrees, it is for safety, it is written in the book if it is turned on at 103 degrees, then you need to look at the radiator or not.
radiator was disassembled and the situation is unchanged after changing both thermostats I guess I was worried about nothing but normal working of cooling system
At low RPMs and speeds the temperature will rise, you can’t cheat the laws of physics!
I am concerned that at 0 degrees the engine lacks cooling antifreeze
The antifreeze itself does not cool the engine, it is a coolant. If the radiator is not properly cooled, the antifreeze will not be able to cool the engine.
All right. Same thing. 88 steady when the air conditioner is off. If it’s off, it’s 88-97 and back.
normal case.low speed of the vehicle. less coolant (air) goes through the radiator.When air conditioner is on. airflow speed increases. temperature drops.
“In summer, the climate is always 85” That’s because when you turn on the compressor, the coolers ALWAYS turn on.
From the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below.1) the engine is “hot” on wagons, the cooler turns on after 95C2) thermostat is not involved, they die in 99% open, and with this failure the car will not overheat, but rather warm for a long time. The remaining 1%. the car will boil.
It is also quite possible clogged condenser (radiator)! Dust or fluff, you need to start with cleaning (blowing and washing) the condenser.
Yesterday the radiators were all washed even between them
Thermostats are out of order.The fan should actuate at 93 degrees
If you have MTS, then you can call me 7 913 375 64 91 ( if you have bezlimitische) or give me yours, but only MTS I will rezone you and explain everything Respectfully Alexander.
Thank you) it’s too late to call now) I’ll call tomorrow night)
So if you remove the thermostat under the sensor, the coolant will constantly circulate through the radiator, I think which is closer to the cabin at all unnecessary thermostat, it is generally where and where the flow closes?
Polo Sedan Engine Overheating, Cooling System Check
The thermostats are not working properly and the engine is operating at an optimum temperature. If there is a problem with the cooling system, it could cause the engine to overheat. If you miss this point, there can be unpleasant consequences: a breakdown of the head gasket, warping of the head, and as a consequence, a difficult repair of the engine.
Your vehicle has a warning light for overheating in the engine cooling system (with a red filter). If the system is overheated, check the radiator cap, and have the cause of the overheating corrected.
Checking the cooling system of Polo sedan
At the first sign of overheating, if the temperature gauge arrow is approaching the red zone of the scale, but from under the hood do not burst clouds of steam, turn on the maximum mode of heating the cabin on the heating, air conditioning and ventilation. This is necessary in order to reduce the temperature of the coolant in the engine cooling system.
Pull out the brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, and then using the momentum of the vehicle try to move carefully to the edge of the road and pull over to the right of the road or, if possible, beyond the edge of the road. Let the engine run a couple of minutes at normal speed of the crankshaft at idle with the heater on full power.
Do not stop the engine immediately! The only condition. Keep tightness of the cooling system. If you burst or popped a hose or formed another place of leakage, other than the release of fluid from under the cork expansion tank, the engine will have to stop immediately.
After stopping the overheated engine the coolant overheats locally in the points of contact with the most thermally stressed parts of the engine and begins to form vapor plugs. This phenomenon is called thermal shock.
Open the hood and look under the hood. Determine where the steam escapes from. When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, the integrity of rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat.
If a coolant leak is detected, the burst hose can be temporarily repaired with adhesive tape.
Especially suitable for this purpose is reinforced (e.g. silver colored) adhesive tape, which can be purchased in auto shops.
Leaky radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to fix on the spot, so in such a situation, you need to refill the cooling system with water and closely monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system.
Use of water instead of antifreeze for a long time leads to scale formation in the engine cooling system, worsens cooling of the engine and shortens the service life
Never add cold water to an overheated engine. It should cool down with the hood open for at least 30 minutes
A broken or loose alternator and water pump drive belt tension almost always results in the engine overheating. If the belt is intact. check tension. If a belt breakage occurs or is so worn that the tensioner range is insufficient to tension the belt properly, replace the belt
The engine can overheat if the thermostat, which regulates the flow of liquid in the cooling system through or past the radiator, fails (to warm up a cold engine faster).
To check the thermostat check the temperature of the hose connecting the thermostat to the radiator with the warmed engine. If radiator hose is cold, the thermostat is defective, no circulation through radiator.
In many cases the cause of overheating of an engine with a cooling system equipped with an electric fan, is the fan failure. Check engine temperature and whether cooling fan blows on if engine overheats. If the fan does not turn on, blown fuse, or faulty trigger relay could be the cause.
The blinking of the fan leads to a burned out electric motor or oxidized contacts in the wiring harness
Replace the fuse in the wiring block in the dashboard.
9 or in the assembly block of fuses and relays installed in the undercarriage space. If after changing fuses the fan did not start working, check electric motor, and for this purpose take two additional wires and feed it directly from the accumulator battery. Ensure the cables are securely fastened and insulated.
Do not allow wires to be shorted to each other!
Pay attention to polarity of connection: the electric motor must rotate in such a way that the fan blows air through the radiator onto the motor, and the directions of air stream and air flow coincide. If the motor starts, there is a problem with the wiring, fuse, or relay to turn on the cooling system fan; if not, there is a problem with the wiring, fuse, or relay to turn on the cooling system fan. the wiring or the electric motor itself is also defective. Relay, fuse, and motor are not repairable, replace them. 10 Electrical equipment, c. 179).
There are two valves on the expansion tank plug. intake and exhaust. The exhaust valve plays a vital role in maintaining optimum engine temperature. The BVM is designed to maintain system overpressure of at least 0.145 MPa (1.45 kgf/cm2) to raise the coolant’s boiling point and prevent heavy vapor buildup. Unfortunately, when the valve is jammed in the closed position when overheating occurs, excessive pressure can be greatly increased. If the pressure exceeds 0.15 MPa (1.5 kgf/cm2), expansion tank rupture or bursting of one of the hoses can occur. Valve jamming in its turn in open position leads to premature boiling of coolant.
Therefore, once a year flush the cap of an expansion tank with running water, and also periodically check mobility of a piston rod of the exhaust valve by pressing on the valve disk with your finger. When in doubt, replace the plug. It is obvious that if you remove the plug of the radiator with an overheated engine, and this action coincides with a thermal shock, then the boiling of the liquid and the formation of airlocks in the cooling system will be guaranteed.
Once a year blow through the radiator cells with a stream of compressed air (for example, from a compressor), directing the jet first toward the advancing air stream, and then in its direction for removing the dirt, stuck on insects and road debris from the radiator surface. This is how you can partially restore the effectiveness of the radiator.
Why the engine cooling fan often turns on
The vehicle fan is not the primary, but only an auxiliary cooling system mechanism, unlike a household fan that runs on hot days in apartments and offices. The main role in the water systems (and such are equipped today the vast majority of cars) all the same plays the coolant. antifreeze, and the state of the circuit in which it is. The fan, as a rule, is switched on only when other units (thermostat, radiator) are unable to cope with the cooling of the engine.
- Mechanical. The blades are either mounted on the crankshaft pulley, or have a permanent belt drive. The most reliable, but outdated circuit, is used today mainly in special vehicles or heavy trucks (although in the past it was equipped with cars). A significant disadvantage is the constant cooling of the engine, which leads to insufficient heating at low temperatures.
- Viscocoupler. Further development of the mechanical design. The basic part of the fan has a permanent belt drive, and the blades are connected through special bimetallic plates, when heated, the two parts are connected by a viscous gel, which transmits the rotation similar to an automatic transmission torque converter. The main disadvantages are the low accuracy of temperature control and the complexity of design. Currently not used.
- From the coolant temperature sensor, located in the radiator. First variant of the electric circuit of connection of the fan. Was used in carbureted cars and the first generations of fuel-injected cars. The main disadvantage is the irrelevance of temperature control, especially when the radiator is damaged and then emptied.
- From the ECU, the engine control unit. the most accurate and adequate method, is used in modern cars. On most cars, the ECU receives data from several sensors located in different parts of the engine, and based on their readings it supplies current to the electric fan motor.Heating up the cooling system gradually. First the small circuit is heated: the engine cooling jacket and pipes going to the passenger compartment and some attachments. When this circuit reaches a temperature close to the working temperature, the thermostat opens the way for fluid to the large circuit: a radiator and its nozzles. The radiator cells in contact with atmospheric air give off their heat. When natural airflow becomes insufficient, a forced airflow is connected using a fan.Modern cars are mostly equipped with two (often identical and interchangeable) cooling fans. But it does not always mean the possibility of double cooling: more often one fan is responsible for the cooling system and the other one for a conditioner which radiator (condenser) is located before the main radiator. This fan is activated when the freon needs to be cooled.
CAUSES OF TOO FREQUENT SWITCHING ON OF THE FAN
The air conditioning does not turn on when the engine is hot;
- Thermostat. the device regulating the fluid passage through the cooling system can jam either in closed (in this case coolant will circulate in the inner circle and will not get into the radiator), or in half-closed position. the antifreeze movement will slow down in this case and the heat sink will become worse. The engine starts to overheat more quickly, respectively, the fan will turn on more often.
- Water pump (pump). Insufficiently efficient pump operation also causes cooling fluid circulation speed decrease and as a result. engine overheating. This is a very serious symptom, in addition to the problem with the fan turning on too frequently, usually a sign that this is a precursor to its imminent final failure.
- Radiator. Dust and dirt from the road clogs up the space between the radiator cells and leads to less antifreeze cooling and overheating of the system. In this case it is necessary to clean the radiator, preferably with its dismantling.
- Clogging of cooling system channels. If all of the above-mentioned systems are operating normally, but the fan is still turning on too frequently, the ducts may be clogged. Change antifreeze and flush the system.
- Airlocks in the cooling system. They can form when the coolant is not changed correctly, as well as due to leaks in the system. If there is air, the antifreeze is heated unevenly, resulting in unstable fan operation.
WHAT TO DO IN CASE OF MALFUNCTION
Do not drive a vehicle with a cooling fan that switches on too often, even if the temperature readings do not reach critical values. The situation can be caused by local overheating outside the temperature sensors’ area of responsibility. You need to get busy identifying problems and fixing them as quickly as possible.
If frequent inclusion of the fan caught on the way, it is necessary to take measures, allowing the engine to cool in a normal mode:
- drive at low revs, but at quite high speed (60 km/h or more if possible), in a straight or upshift gear;
- switch on a heater, the radiator of which will also take heat from the system, and an air conditioner. its fan will help the main one;
- If available, monitor the temperature readings with a scanner;
- at a critical rise in temperature to stop, but do not turn off the engine immediately, let it idle. Never open the radiator cap or expansion tank. it may cause antifreeze spillage and burns. It is also not recommended to open the hood in hot weather. it will not contribute to engine cooling.
The optimal solution to problems with the fan will be a visit to the service station. best of all, one of the service stations of the Wilgood network of smart car services. Our skilled craftsmen will quickly identify the cause and eliminate it, preventing overheating and costly engine repairs.
Frequently turns on the engine fan. causes
In case of Chevrolet Aveo 1.2 ECOTEC 86 HP, presented for the incorrect operation of its fan, corresponded to a simple and easy troubleshooting. Therefore, the owner of the vehicle can talk about big luck. It happens that behind the symptoms of this type is a faulty fan module. And this, unfortunately, is associated with a definitely higher price for the original part! And although it seems like a huge amount, compared to the fan for BMW 520d E60 costs up to 48,000 at the dealership!
Frequently turns on the engine fan. the reasons
However, if we look for substitutes, we can clearly reduce this one (with the housing). And that means almost 5 times the difference in cost! No wonder that customers very rarely decide to buy an original part for this type of repair.
Many people wonder why the cooling fan is constantly running or often turns on. After all, this is an indication of poor operation of the cooling system. This can lead to overheating of the motor and its failure. This problem is quite serious, in some cases, in order to fix it, we would even have to partially disassemble the engine. The smooth functioning of the power unit depends on how quickly you can locate the fault. To check and repair does not require special skills, any person can cope with it. The main thing is to know how to search for the cause of such behavior of cooling system.
Why the cooling fan constantly runs or often turns on, it becomes clear from the principle of its operation. It is activated by a sensor located at the bottom of the cooling radiator. This sensor reacts to an increase in the temperature of the coolant, as a result, the fan turns on. It creates an additional air flow that enhances the cooling of the liquid in the radiator and, consequently, the engine itself. On the basis of this, it is clear, the fan constantly works, only on overheated power units. To avoid engine failure, it is necessary to respond to the problem in time, and fix it.
At what temperature does the fan on the Polo sedan
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The same thing, 0 degrees is nothing, the temperature rises and no airflow, so it turns on, my friend in Japan, even at idle the fan turns on every 20 seconds, runs for 10 seconds and then turns off and it is normal. On the Polo it is different, it gets up to 97 degrees, turned the fan on speed 1, condemned to 87 and stopped. 2 speed is turned on at 103, it is for safety, in the book it is written if it is turned on at 103 degrees, then it is necessary to look at a clogged radiator or not.
The radiators were disassembled, they were clean, changed both thermostats situation has not changed, I assume that I was worried for nothing is the norm of the cooling system
At low revs and speeds, the temperature will go up, you can’t cheat the laws of physics!
I am concerned that at 0 degrees, the engine lacks cooling antifreeze
The antifreeze itself does not cool, it is a coolant. If the radiator does not have proper cooling, the antifreeze will not be able to cool the engine.
Normal. Same thing. With the air conditioner off, 88 is stable. If off 88-97 and back.
normal situation.slow car speed. less coolant (air) flows through the radiator.Cooler turns on. airflow speed increases. temperature goes down.
In summer, the climate is always 85 because when you turn on the compressor, the coolers are ALWAYS running.
According to the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below.1) the engine is hot on cars, it will start after 95C2) thermostat has nothing to do with it, they die in 99% open, and if it breaks, the car will not overheat, but stay warm for a long time. The remaining 1%. the car will be boiling.
It is also possible that the air conditioner’s radiator is clogged! Dust or fluff, you should start with cleaning (blowing and washing) the condenser.
Yesterday all radiators were washed even in between
Thermostats are out of order.The fan should turn on at 93 degrees
There are two of them. Now be very careful!The first one is the one under the temperature sensor! That’s most likely the one that failed! 87 degrees. holds it like in the block and then opens and lets the fluid into the radiator, I just threw it away 4 years ago!and painless for the engine bonus the heater became much warmer t.к. Circulation through the system without it is faster and softer (no sudden changes in the system).)The second is the main 83 degrees. should be in working order ( it has a very clever two way opening valve operation ) first the bypass opens and then it opens fully.I have 4 cars running on the MAIN thermostat (without the first additional thermostat)! )2 of them are on the climate, one with automatic, one without a/c. All of the fans are responding at 93 max.(in motion with ( heater ) 85min.Try it, I think my 30 years of experience will help you. GOOD LUCK.
If you have MTS, then you can call me 7 913 375 64 91 ( if you have bezlimitische) or give them, but only MTS I perezonyu and will explain everything Respectfully Alexander.
Thank you) it’s too late to call now) I’ll call tomorrow night)
There are 2 of them. Now be very careful!The first one is the one under the temperature sensor! It is most likely the one that failed! 87 degrees-holds like in the block and then opens and lets the fluid into the radiator, I just threw it out 4 years ago!and painless for the engine bonus heater is much warmer t.к. Circulation through the system without it is faster and softer (no sudden changes in the system).)The second. THIS is the MAIN 83 degrees. must be in working order (it has a very tricky two-way opening valve operation) first the bypass opens, and then it opens fully.I’ve had 4 cars go on the MAIN thermostat ( without the first one extra! )Two of them on a climate, one with automatic, one without a conditioner. All fans are triggered at 93 max.in motion with ( heater ) 85min.Try it, I think my 30 years of experience will help you. GOOD LUCK.
so if you remove the thermostat that is under the sensor, the coolant will be constantly circulating through the radiator, I think that is closer to the cabin at all unnecessary thermostat, it is where and where closes the flow?
No it’s not what you think. The one closer to the passenger compartment is the MAIN for all engine work.It keeps the heat of the whole engine and circulation through the big radiator perfectly. The fluid flows through the heater all the time. The one under the sensor, it’s holding 87gr. on the unit
You don’t have to worry about it in any case. If there is any overheating you will hear a beep and the temperature will be shown on the screen. You don’t have to worry about it until then.
That’s the thing, there was a beep and that scary number 95 appeared on the screen. I just didn’t pay attention to the sound, thought I was being signaled that it was 4 outside. The notification sound is the same.
Т.е. It was the child’s fault? To the dealer, I understand, not to go and tug yet. Car is under warranty, 18 year, automatic (forgot to mention that in the beginning)
Get one of these and you’ll know what the temperature is
My working temperature is 86° with the fan blowing 97°. It’s regular antifreeze. It’s 108°, depending on what kind of temp it is. That’s why 110° is the beginning of boiling.There’s worse antifreeze that has a lower boiling point. Go to the dealer and get the fluid changed.
There’s very little data! No indication of what the baby was fed, whether his stool is normal after feeding, what the wife did for half an hour. Maybe there is a reason to sin. Or it is sinful, then there is a reason to buy a convertible. And the temperature of 95 degrees is normal, as well as the periodic switching on the fan during prolonged idling and in traffic.
And before that, what was displayed on the dashboard? It’s not the coolant temperature, is it?? At overheating, a separate indicator light on the dashboard. a red thermometer. comes on.This is most likely what happened. Coincidence. No. It’s up to you to decide
Convertible for St. Petersburg is not the best solution, so I prefer to keep driving a Polo. The temperature may be normal, but I just did not see the number 95 on the screen, so I worried.
The number 95 appeared on the screen, as I understand it is the temperature of the coolant, not the engine. The overheat warning light is not lit on the dashboard. The fan worked for about 10 seconds, turned off and the screen is 90 degrees again.
What is the problem?? So it went up to 95gr? I often get that temp on the dirt road. If you were driving on the highway and 95, then yesAnd in your mode, I do not see a crime with the coolant temperature
It went up to 95g by itself? What was on the screen before?It makes no difference, it’s the same thing.I could easily see 105 on the highway. How to fry
Yes I did not see more than 95g in the summer with the cardboard. Even the fan was on full blast, it was beating like a beast, but not for long
Yes, 95 appears by itself, regardless of the fact that the BC was a couple of times in traffic.
I’ve always got the speed on the BC.
Well, I’ve had a little break and it’s all good. I’m just going on a long trip to our glorious enclave called the Kalina area. There, of course, all the time to drive on the highway without traffic, but I always try to reassure myself. One time I rode there in a Jazz with a row of coils disconnected. It was a pleasure ))))
When the engine is running, a functioning cooling system maintains optimum temperature. Cooling system malfunctions can cause the engine to overheat. If to miss this moment, there can be unpleasant consequences: puncture of a gasket of the block head, warping of the head, and as consequence, engine repair.
In a combination of devices of your car there is a signaling lamp of an overheat of liquid in system of cooling of the engine (with a light filter of red color). If the light comes on, stop, let the engine cool down, and correct the cause of the overheating.
Checking the Polo sedan cooling system
At the first sign of overheating, if the temperature gauge arrow is approaching the red zone of the scale, but from under the hood do not burst clouds of steam, turn on the maximum mode of heating the cabin on the heating, air conditioning and ventilation. The interval between the first and last change in the engine coolant temperature should be less than 10 minutes.
Pull out the engine oil and filter, check that the oil level is within the operating range of the engine, and disconnect the capillary tube if necessary. Let the engine run a couple of minutes at normal speed of the crankshaft at idle with the heater on full power.
Don’t stop the engine right away! The only condition is to keep the cooling system airtight. If a hose burst or popped, or if there is a leak other than fluid escaping from under the expansion tank plug, stop the engine immediately.
After stopping the overheated engine begins local overheating of the coolant in places of contact with the most thermally stressed parts of the engine and the formation of vapor plugs. This phenomenon is called thermal shock.
Open the hood and look under the hood. Determine where the steam is escaping from. When inspecting the engine pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, the integrity of rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat.
If a coolant leak is detected, the burst hose can be repaired temporarily with masking tape.
Especially good for this purpose is reinforced (e.g., silver) adhesive tape, which you can buy in auto stores.
Leaky radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to fix on the spot, so in this situation you need to add water to the cooling system and carefully monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system.
Prolonged use of water instead of antifreeze leads to scale formation in the engine cooling system, cooling deterioration and, consequently, reduction of the service life
The engine should cool down with the hood open. The engine should cool down with the hood open for at least 30 minutes
A broken or loose alternator and water pump drive belt almost always causes the engine to overheat. If belt is intact. Check tension. If the belt breaks or is so worn that the tensioner range is insufficient to keep it under tension, change the belt
The engine can overheat if the thermostat, which regulates the flow of liquid in the cooling system through or past the radiator, fails (to warm up a cold engine faster).
To check the thermostat on the warmed up engine check the temperature of the hose connecting the thermostat with the radiator by touch. If the radiator hose is cold, the thermostat is defective and there is no circulation through the radiator.
If you leave the engine running with an electric blower, it often causes the blower to malfunction and causes overheating. Run the engine, watch the temperature and pay attention to whether the cooling fan turns on when the engine overheats. If the fan does not turn on, a blown fuse (fusible link), or a faulty on-off switch can be the cause
Oxidized contacts in the wiring harness, blown fan auxiliary resistance or burned out electric motor
The blower fan can only turn on briefly if the blower is off
or in the assembly block of fuses and relays, installed in the under-hood space. If the fan does not start after replacing the fuses, check the motor by taking two extra wires and powering it directly from the battery. E1wires must be securely fastened and insulated.
Do not allow wires to be short-circuited with each other!
Pay attention to the polarity of the connection: the electric motor must rotate so that the fan blows air through the radiator onto the motor, and the directions of the generated air flow and the incoming (track) air flow coincide. If the motor is running, there is a fault in the wiring, the fuse or the cooling system fan switch; if not, there is a fault in the wiring or in the motor itself. Relay, fuse and motor cannot be repaired, replace with new ones. 10 Electrical Installations, s. 179).
The expansion tank cap has two valves: an inlet valve and an outlet valve. The inlet and outlet valves play a big role in keeping the engine at the optimum temperature. It maintains in the system an overpressure of at least 0.145 MPa (1.45 kgf/cm2), providing an increase in the initial boiling temperature of the coolant and preventing intensive vaporization. Unfortunately, if the valve is jammed in the closed position, overheating will cause significant overpressure exceeding 0.15 MPa (1.5 kgf/cm2), which can cause the expansion tank to rupture or one of the hoses to burst. If the valve is stuck in the open position, the coolant will boil over prematurely.
Therefore, once a year flush the expansion tank plug with running water, and also periodically check the mobility of the exhaust valve stem by pressing on the valve plate with your finger. If in doubt, replace the plug. It is obvious that if the radiator plug is removed on an overheated engine and this action coincides in time with a thermal shock, liquid boiling and formation of air locks in the cooling system will be guaranteed.
Once a year blow through the radiator cells with a jet of compressed air (for example, from a compressor), directing the jet first towards the incoming air stream, and then in its direction to remove dirt, insects and road debris from the radiator surface. So you can partially restore the efficiency of the radiator.
Temperature of engine cooling fan actuation on cwva
Since buying a Rapid always amused by the temperature of the coolant displayed on the dashboard. The gauge always stays at 90gr when warm. Even when pushing in traffic, when the fan kicked in. Not a degree higher!)On my previous 2114, the temp arrow always clearly tracked the temp changes. running back and forth.Of course I heard that on many foreign cars there is such a feature. the dashboard does not show the real temperature so as not to unnecessarily stress the driver )I wanted to check how we have all been neglected : )
While owning the 2114, was purchased a wonderful Chinese device. ELM 327 adapter version 1.5 with wifi interface.
Paired with a great program. OpenDiag it allows you to do a lot of interesting things. And the main thing is to skim diagnostic logs. But it doesn’t work with Rapid. t.к. works with internal VAZ protocols other than standard OBD-2.So I had to look for something new. Of all the variety of OBD-2 OBD-2 readers for Android, the Car Scanner is the most liked.completely Russian interface. t.к. The developer is ours. Support of many OBD-2 protocols for different makes and models, taking into consideration their features. Quite operative feedback from the developer, in case of problems and questions. And the most important thing. this program can write diagnostic logs and export them to.csv format, understandable for Exel. Certainly it will not get into the dealers’ protocols, and it will not even show such parameters as “Injection pulse duration” or “Ignition timing rollback”. But even available. about 50. parameters are enough to assess some moments of the engine.
Returning to a theme of temperature of coolant, it has turned out the following interesting moments.
There was recorded a log of the journey of about 12 min. No traffic jams on the way. Stopping only at traffic lights. In the graph of the log shows that the TPL fluctuates in the range from 87 to 96 gr. And on the dashboard at the same time. clearly 90))
interesting. Decided to see at what temperature will turn on the radiator cooling fan. When parked, I turned on as many electric consumers as possible to increase the load on the engine to warm it up faster, and waited. The fan turned on when the temperature was over 107gr. and shut off after dropping the temperature to about 100.
On the former 2114, the fan was on at 101gr. And reset it to 96. WAG engines are hotter.
And what about the dashboard readings? And there, as you may have guessed by now:
Further it was interesting to compare the correspondence of readings at lower temperatures.The instrument begins to display the temperature from 50gr. And then the readings change in steps of 3 grams.compared to the OBD reading: 50gr. on the scanner. 50 dashboard 60gr. on the scanner. 68 dashboard65gr. on the scanner. 77 dashboard 70gr. The dashboard reads 90.Well and then up to the fan activated readings dashboard hold at 90. Т.е. in the range of 70-108 grams the dashboard will give you a clear reading of 90.
So what is the point of such an “accurate” device?) You could have just left the “engine warmed up” light on.Like some people.
Well and by the way, that’s probably why there are rumors that the cooling system on tazakhs is imperfect, because.к. temperature is always bouncing up and down. In foreign cars, it stays on
When the engine is running, a functioning cooling system maintains the optimum temperature. Disturbances in the cooling system can lead to engine overheating. If you miss this point, there may be unpleasant consequences: a puncture of the head gasket, warping of the head, and as a consequence, a difficult repair of the engine.
Your vehicle has a warning light for overheating in the engine cooling system (with a red filter) in the instrument cluster. When the light comes on, you should stop, let the engine cool down, and eliminate the cause of overheating.
Check the cooling system of Polo sedan
At the first sign of overheating, if the temperature gauge arrow is approaching the red zone of the scale, but puffs of steam are not escaping from under the hood, turn on the maximum mode of heating the cabin on the heating, air conditioning and ventilation. This is necessary in order to lower the temperature of the coolant in the engine cooling system.
Switch on the alarm, depress the clutch pedal, then, using the inertia of the car, try to move carefully to the edge of the road and stop as possible to the right of the curb, and if possible, outside the roadway. let the engine idle for a few minutes at normal rpm with heater on full throttle.
Do not stop the engine immediately! The only condition is that the cooling system remains airtight. If a hose has burst or popped or if there is a leak other than the fluid escaping from under the expansion tank cap, stop the engine immediately.
After stopping the overheated engine the coolant overheats locally in the points of contact with the most thermally strained engine parts and vapor plugs form. This phenomenon is called thermal shock.
Open the hood and look under the hood. Determine where steam is escaping from. When inspecting the engine pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, the integrity of rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat.
If a coolant leak is detected, the burst hose can be repaired temporarily with duct tape.
Reinforced tape (e.g. silver colored), which is available in auto shops, is particularly suitable for this purpose.
Leaky radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to fix on the spot, so in such a situation you need to refill the cooling system with water and closely monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system.
Never add water to the engine coolant system until the engine coolant has cooled down sufficiently, resulting in shortened life-span
Never add cold water to an overheated engine. It should cool down with the hood open for at least 30 minutes
A broken or loose alternator and water pump drive belt almost always causes the engine to overheat. If belt is intact. Check the tension of the engine. If there is a breakage or the belt is so worn that the belt tensioner range is insufficient to ensure normal belt tension, replace the belt
The engine can overheat in case of thermostat failure, which regulates the flow of liquid in the cooling system through the radiator or past it (to accelerate warming up of the cold engine).
To check the thermostat check the temperature of the hose connecting the thermostat with the radiator with the engine warmed up. If the radiator hose is cold, the thermostat is defective and there is no circulation through the radiator.
If the radiator hose is cold, the thermostat is defective and there is no circulation through the radiator. Stop the engine, watch the temperature and pay attention if the cooling system fan blows when the engine overheats. Failure to turn on fan may be due to blown fuse, defective on-off relay, or blown fuse.
7 oxidized contacts in the wiring harness, blown fan auxiliary resistance or burned out electric motor
Постоянно работает вентилятор. Volkswagen Polo
Replace the fuse in the fuse box in the dashboard.
9 or in the underhood fuse and relay assembly. If the fan does not start after replacing the fuses, check the electric motor by taking two additional wires and feeding it directly from the battery. Wires must be securely fastened and insulated.
Do not allow wires to be shorted to each other!
Pay attention to the polarity of the connection: the electric motor must rotate in such a way that the fan blows air through the radiator onto the motor and the directions of the generated air flow and the air flow coming in (oncoming) coincide. If electric motor starts working, there is a defect in wiring, fuse or relay of cooling fan activation; if not, there is a defect in wiring or motor itself. Relay, fuse, and motor cannot be repaired, replace split. 10 Electrical equipment, with. 179).
The expansion tank cap has two valves: an inlet valve and an outlet valve. The exhaust valve plays a major role in maintaining optimum engine temperature. The valve is designed to maintain an overpressure of at least 0.145 MPa (1.45 kgf/cm2) in the system to raise the temperature at which the coolant begins to boil and prevent excessive vapor buildup. Unfortunately, if the valve is jammed in the closed position when overheated, the overpressure exceeds 0.15 MPa (1.5 kgf/cm2) and can cause the expansion tank to rupture or one of the hoses to burst. If the valve is jammed in the open position, it can cause the coolant to boil prematurely.
Therefore, once a year flush the expansion tank cap with running water, and also periodically check the mobility of the exhaust valve stem by pressing the valve plate with your finger. Replace plug if in doubt. Obviously, if you remove the radiator cap on an overheated engine and the timing of this action coincides with a thermal shock, then the boiling of the fluid and the formation of air locks in the cooling system is guaranteed.
Before you leave the car, check to see if the radiator is cooled properly and if it is still working properly, check to see if the radiator is debris, dirt, insects, and road debris. It is possible to partially restore the effectiveness of the radiator.
It is known that various malfunctions of the engine cooling system do not allow the engine to reach optimum temperature. The engine can overheat, which is fraught with rapid failure, or remain cold, that is, do not reach the operating temperature.
Modern cars use a combined internal combustion engine cooling system: liquid and air cooling. By liquid should be understood the circulation of the coolant or antifreeze through special channels in the cylinder block and cylinder head of the engine.
The coolant circulates thanks to the pump. For additional cooling, the coolant can also circulate in a small circle (inside the engine) and in a large circle, i.e. through the radiator.
However, quite often drivers are faced with the question of why the cooling fan turns on when the engine is cold, the engine fan is triggered in the winter, or rotates constantly. In this article, we will talk about the reasons why the cooling fan turns on in the cold engine, the engine cooling fan does not turn off or the specified fan does not work properly.
Volkswagen Polo constantly running cooling fan
The situation when the cooling fan constantly runs may be caused by several reasons: failure of the coolant temperature sensor or its wiring, breakage of the fan start relay, damage of the drive motor wires, “glitches” of the electronic engine control unit (ECU) and some others.
To understand how the cooling fan should work properly, you need to know what temperature is programmed in the control unit to turn it on. Or look at the data on the sensor on the fan, located in the radiator. Usually it is within 87 95 °C.
In this article we will consider in detail all the main reasons why the radiator fan does not run only when the coolant temperature reaches 100 degrees, but always when the ignition is off.
|Failure of ignition gauge or damage of its wiring||Engine running in emergency mode|
|Wires shorted to “ground”||Engine running, the fan may turn on/off in case of contact loss|
|Shorted wires to “ground” at two ignition sources||Engine started (first sensor) or ignition on (second sensor)|
|Defective relay of fan switching||Engine started in emergency mode|
|“Glitches” of ECU||Different modes, depends on specific ECU|
|Heat dissipation of the radiator is impaired (contamination)||With the engine running, on a long trip|
|Defective sensor of freon pressure||When the air conditioner is on|
|Low efficiency of the cooling system||With the engine running|
Why the cooling fan is constantly working
If the engine fan is running all the time, there may be 7 reasons for it.
- Coolant temperature sensor failure or damage of its wiring. If there is incorrect information from the sensor to the ECU (over- or understated signal, lack of signal, short circuit), ECU generates errors, as a result of which the control unit transfers the engine into emergency mode, in which the fan “flails” constantly, so as not to overheat the engine. You can tell if this is the cause of the problem by seeing if the engine starts up when it is not yet warmed down.
- Shorted wires to the “ground”. It is not uncommon for the fan to run constantly if its minus wire is frayed. Depending on the design of the engine, it can be in different places. If the design of the engine provides two ignition probes, then in case of rupture of the “minus” of the first sensor the fan will “flail” when the ignition is on. If the insulation of wires of the second ignition sensor is damaged, the fan runs constantly when the engine is started.
- Defective relay of the fan switching. In most cars the fan power consists of the “plus” from the relay and “minus” from the ECU, according to the temperature from the thermo-regulator. The “plus” is constantly fed, and “minus” when the antifreeze reaches operating temperature.
- “Glitches” of electronic control unit. In its turn, ECU wrong functioning can be caused by malfunction in its software (for example, after firmware flashing) or at hit of moisture inside its case. As a moisture can be banal antifreeze that got into ECU (it is actual for “Chevrolet Cruze” cars, when antifreeze gets into ECU through a torn pipe of throttle valve heating, it is near ECU).
- Dirty radiator. it concerns both the main radiator and the radiator of air conditioner. Very often the fan is always on when the air conditioner is on.
- Sensor of freon pressure in air conditioner. If it fails and there is a refrigerant leak, the system “sees” that the radiator is overheating and tries to cool it with the continuously running fan. Some motorists have a cooling fan which always works when the air conditioner is on. Really it should not be like that, because it indicates either a clogged (contaminated) radiator, or problems with the freon pressure sensor (freon leak).
- Low efficiency of cooling system. Breakdowns can be associated with a low level of coolant, its leakage, a faulty thermostat, pump failure, depressurized radiator cap or expansion tank. With this problem, the fan may not run all the time, but for a long time, or turn on frequently.
What to do if the cooling fan is working all the time
When the engine cooling fan is running all the time, it is worth to find fault by making some simple diagnostic actions. You need to check it one by one, based on the most probable causes.
- Check the presence of errors in the ECU memory. For example, error code p2185 points out that there is no “minus” at fuel pre-ignition sensor, and some others (from p0115 to p0119) point out other faults in its electrical circuit.
- Check the continuity of wires. Depending on the design of the motor, individual wires associated with the fan drive may be damaged (usually frayed insulation), resulting in a short circuit. So you just need to find the place where the wire is damaged. This can be done either visually or with a multimeter. As an option. insert two needles in the contacts of the chip and short-circuit them between each other. If the wires are intact. the ECU will generate an overheating error.
- Check the detonation sensor. When all is well with wiring and sensor power, it is worth to check coolant temperature sensor. Along with checking the sensor itself one should also check the contacts on its tip and quality of the tip’s connection (is the ear/latch broken). If necessary, clean oxide off the contacts on the terminal.
- Check relay and fuse. Check if the power comes from the relay to the fan with a multimeter (pin number can be found in the diagram). There are cases when it “jams”, then you need to replace it. If there is no power, it is necessary to check fuse.
- Cleaning of radiators and cooling system. If the main radiator or a/c radiator are covered with debris. you need to clean them. The engine radiator can also clog internally, then it is necessary to clean the entire cooling system with special agents. Or dismantle radiator and wash it separately.
- Check the cooling system. The fan can run continuously if the cooling system and its separate elements are not effective. That’s why it is desirable to check the cooling system, and if there are any breakages. to repair or replace its parts.
- Checking the freon level and operation of the refrigerant pressure sensor. For these procedures and to eliminate the cause it is better to visit the service.
- Checking ECU is the last resort when all other units are checked. In general, the control unit must be dismantled and its housing disassembled. Then check the condition of the internal board and its elements, if necessary clean it with alcohol from antifreeze and garbage.
Most often the radiator fan rotates constantly because of a short circuit in the starting relay or its wiring. Other problems are less often. Accordingly, you should begin diagnostics with relays, wiring, and presence of errors in ECU memory.
Why does my Volkswagen Polo overheat?? What are the risks?
Volkswagen Polo heating up. A sign of a serious problem. You should not think that you will take care of it later, because if you do, you risk irrevocably damaging your car’s engine. In fact, if your Volkswagen Polo gets hot and you keep driving, you risk breaking the car’s engine. The internal combustion engine works through combustion, which produces heat. This heat needs to be controlled because it can damage engine parts. If you see white smoke starting to come out of the engine and you feel a loss of power, your Volkswagen Polo is getting hot and you have damaged your engine, you should stop.
What are the causes of Volkswagen Polo heating up?
- A leak in the cooling system
Before trying to determine why cooling system fans may turn on when the engine is cold in cars, it is advisable to understand the essence of the work of this unit.
The fan is turned on by a special sensor that activates the rotation of the blades. This controller is located at the bottom of the radiator.
There are some modern cars that the engine control unit is responsible for starting, although this is rather a rarity and an exception to the rules.
When the cooling fluid reaches the required temperature, which is usually in the range of 100-105 degrees Celsius, the sensor closes the circuit and the fan can be started. It starts blowing on the radiator. This achieves a better cooling effect because it combines air and liquid systems.
There are situations where the engine is still absolutely cold and does not need any additional cooling, but the fan is still running. This is not a normal condition. It is necessary to seek the cause of such behavior of the cooling system, and to eliminate the faults.
If you continue to ignore the constantly running fan, the initial discomfort will be replaced by a more serious problems. But here it is important to note that the constant operation of the blades is not as dangerous as a complete failure of the device. Although this fact is absolutely not the reason not to do anything.
Everything begins with diagnostics. The most simple and convenient in this plan are injection engines. To detect a malfunction, it is sufficient to perform a computer diagnostics. It is done both in conditions of car service center and in a garage with your own hands.
Connection to the electronic control block gives an opportunity to receive error codes, which are not difficult to decipher and understand the real reasons of such behavior of the cooling system fan.
There are situations when the ECU detects a malfunction in the cooling system and makes the fan turn continuously, even when the engine is cold. This is a kind of safety feature, aimed at preventing possible overheating of the engine. That is why when errors are found and after troubleshooting. do the resetting. To erase the errors, you should look in the instruction manual of your car. On some cars, it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery and the errors will be erased. On other cars, the errors are erased with connected diagnostic equipment.
If computer diagnostics doesn’t suit you or it can’t be used for some reasons, you should check all potential sources of troubles by method of elimination.