## Formula for calculating power and the volume of the furnace, the size of the furnaces made of metal and brick

The performance of the **bathhouse** for the bath is calculated based on the size and parameters of the building. For this, the steam rooms are operated on cubature, and the heat loss is taken into account. The wood stove is better to let it be greater than the smaller. The electric tank should be close in **power** to the optimal.

For a small steam room in size 2.52.52.2 meters, we get a furnace, minimum performance by 13.75 m3. A window with a single glazing size of 0.40.4 m will add 0.48 m3. A furnace with a firebox with a firebox will add 10%, that is, another 1.4 m3. A brick partition 1.21.5 m will take heat, equivalent to 2.16 m3. Let the door be wooden, but not particularly insulated and with a glass window, 0.81.5 m size. Therefore, add another 1.44 m3 to it.

If the steam room is insulated according to all the rules (that is, on the walls, a layer of basalt isolation, which is covered with foil as reflecting heat and vapor barrier, the joints are carefully glued, a double layer of insulation on the ceiling is sewn up and all this is sewn with lining), the available steam room is reduced by the correction coefficient, which Just in case, let it be 0.7.

Thus, instead of 13.75 m3, we get the initial figure of 9.63 m3. As a result, the calculated required power of the bath furnace will be: 9.630,481,42,161,44 = 15.11 m3. Quite acceptable value. For a wood furnace, taking into account the best heating of the heater, you can choose a furnace with a capacity of 20 m3 (that is, approximately 15-25 m3 of the manufacturer specified in the passport).

The **power** of an electric furnace is calculated in a similar way, here it is better to choose a model that is close to a calculated value of 15 kW. That is, a sauna oven with passport parameters of nominal **power** 14-16 kW.

When choosing a specific model of the **bathhouse**, the sought result will be closer to the middle of the range of maximum values. For example, with calculated 20 m3, it is better to choose a stove with a passport power of not 16-20, but 22-26 m3.

You can make more complex calculations taking into account the return and replenishment of heat with stones, the time of operation of the furnace and the number of people simultaneously located in the room, the amount of water poured onto the stove, but for a simple family bath this is already too unnecessary.

## “Wrong” **power** of the bath furnace

The power of the heater should be optimal, neither more nor less. The issue of the power of the heater can be neglected only in one case: if you built hammam where there is no bath oven in the usual sense at all.

If the power of the heater is not chosen correctly, which will inevitably lead to certain troubles.

Some take a bathhouse with a large supply of power so that the steam room heats up faster. Yes, the steam room in this case will really heat up faster, but this is only the initial stage, and then the oven will work at a minimum.

As a result, you get hot air, but the cold stones that are useless to pour water. They will not give a couple, and if there are steam, then these will be clubs of a white steam, like over a teapot, and not the light transparent steam that you counted on. Erecting a bath with your own hands or ordering its “turnkey” construction.

### Assassin’s Creed Valhalla : Explore The Bath House. Discover Where The Sewers Lead

### Power lack

Another extreme is to buy a furnace for a minimum power bath in order to save money corny. Even if such a stove can heat the steam room to the desired temperature, working at the limit, the stove will quickly fail.

## Dumped binder of a black ceiling on wooden beams

The most suitable binder option has to be selected based on the characteristics of the building, the method of insulation, the presence of a warm or cold attic, the material of the walls, the moisture of the atmosphere inside the box.

An ideal option for a black ceiling may well be considered a driving wooden beams of an ordinary shawer or a trimmed board.

There are three most proven ways of flooring:

- Fastening of a long board on the lower ends of the black ceiling;
- Installation of boards on cranial strips;
- Flooring on the outer surface of wooden beams.

At first glance, materials options are not much different, but this is not entirely true, there are certain differences. Before hearing a black ceiling on the beams, you need to pay attention to the device of the attic and the ceiling.

The flooring of a wooden rail along the upper plane of the beam is used only in case of a serious need to increase the height of the ceiling ceiling or arranging winter.Type attic rooms. In this case, to reduce losses, the floor is insulated with an additional layer of mineral wool above the black crate of wooden beams. The removal of the lag from the insulation layer reduces heat loss and significantly improves vapor barrier.

## Calculation of optimal power of the bath furnace

Now the next question: optimal power is what is what? All manufacturers indicate for each model not only power in kilowatts, but also the recommended volume of steam room. We will not delve into the intricacies of calculating thermal power, but take another parameter as a basis. The Cubature of the steam room. So consider and easier and more understandable.

### We determine the kubature of the steam room

In principle, the kubature of the steam room can also be determined according to the project of the bath. There are all sizes.

If there is no project, you will have to work with roulette.

- Measure the steam room and write down its length, height, width in meters.
- We change everything, we get our volume in cubic meters.

It would seem that we have already received the very kubature of the steam room by which we will choose a furnace for the bath. But this is not so. There are a number of nuances that must be taken into account.

### We make the necessary adjustments

The actual kubature of the steam room is not the data that you should rely on when choosing the power of the bath furnace. This is only a theory, and there are also individual features of the paired premises of a particular bath, and these features also affect the choice of the necessary power of the bath furnace.

- If on the walls or on the ceiling in the steam room there are non.Insulated surfaces (brickwork, cladding with stone or tiles, windows and so on), then we count their area, multiply by 1.2 and add to the previously calculated kubature. That is, every 1m.Kv of such surfaces increases the calculated volume by 1.2m.Cube;
- If you have a glass door installed in the steam room, then we add another 1.5m to the resulting volume.Cube;
- If the walls are made of logs and after that there are no interior decoration (the walls are not lined with lining through thermal insulation), then we multiply the volume by 1.5.

Now we know the volume for which the bang bang you need to be designed.

When choosing a specific model, the resulting volume should be in the middle of the maximum values. For example, we got 20 m.Cube, so we need a furnace for a **bathhouse** not with a cubature of 12-20, but the one that indicates 15-25m.Cube.

## Features of saunas

The principle of calculating the power of furnaces for saunas remains the same: counting the volume of steamers, take into account the degree of insulation of walls and windows/doors. Only you need to take into account that the steam room is ready for medium insulation will be in 2-3 hours. To reduce time by 1 hour, it is necessary to increase **power** by 60-80% (or improve the heat-insulating properties). But the steam rooms in the saunas usually do less than in baths. People sit in them calmly, not with brooms wave. So really too much performance is not required.

The power of the furnace for the bath and sauna must be selected based on the size of the steam room and the degree of insulation

If you look at the catalog of wood stoves for a bath and sauna, then their division goes through the volume of a steam room. This is convenient when choosing (taking into account all amendments to heat loss). If you are going to buy an electric tank in a sauna, then in technical specifications only power consumption is often written. In this case, for saunas, periodic visits without permanent heating, you can navigate according to the norms:

- Log house (log or beam) without additional insulation-1.4-1.8 kW/m 3

- With wall thickness 100-140 mm, 1.5 kW/m 3 is required;
- With wall thickness 200-240 mm-1.75 kW/m 3;

There is no error in the above norms: with increasing the thickness of log walls without insulation, an increase in power is required. This is due to the high heat capacity of the wood. And the more wood, the more heat will go to its heating. In the presence of good thermal insulation inside the sauna, power is considered according to frame standards.

It is advisable to protect the electric heifer of any power

In the presence of constant heating, other norms are used to **calculate** the required **power** of the electric furnace for the sauna. On average, 0.7 kW/m 3 are taken. This norm is fair for saunas in the apartment. So, in this case, the use of electric taps is not so expensive.

When planning energy consumption costs, note that at full power, electric stoves for the sauna work only for the period of “acceleration” of the steam room. Before set of the required temperature. Then or manually turn off and periodically turn off (cheap models), or in automatic mode, support the given temperature. In any case, after reaching a given temperature, energy consumption is reduced.

## The design of gas.Driving furnaces

Metal furnaces for baths, working exclusively on wood, quickly heat up and warm up the room, but, after fuel burning, cool for 10-15 minutes. For this reason, you have to constantly maintain combustion during the entire stay in the steam room.

Combined furnace for a bath of firewood, has no such disadvantage. After installing a gas.Air device, the stove automatically supports the necessary temperature in the room.

Lovers of the classic Russian bath, after extracting the burner with automation, can be healed by the steam room in the traditional way using firewood.

In fact, a two.Fuel furnace for a gas on gas and wood is a classic version of the stove equipment in a modern design. The design provides a spacious stove for obtaining a sufficient amount of steam.

Types of design, depending on the principle of operation, several basic modifications of bath furnaces operating on gas and firewood simultaneously. According to their internal device, heater is divided into several groups:

The design of paired stoves is characterized by the presence of two built.In combustion chambers at once, separately for gas and firewood. At the cost, these heating devices are more expensive, approximately on ⅔ a single.Fuel stove. Reviewed models have a unique furnace design that is converted for each type of fuel.

Modern monoblock structures are equipped with a fixed burner. To switch to another type of fuel, there is no need to reconfigure the stove. The device contains one furnace chamber and heat exchanger. The burner is protected by a steel sheet.

Gas-wood furnaces for a **bathhouse** are paired, reconfigurated and monoblock. Each design has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are taken into account when selecting a suitable model.

### Gas work

For work, combined gas.Driving furnace for the bath, the firebox is mounted in GSU (gas.Regional device). It is imperative to use an automation block that controls the supply of gas and disconnecting GSU when fading flame.

Gas stoves are connected to a water circuit or work as air convection heaters. In models with an open stump, stones heat up directly from the exposure of the flame. In closed stoves, stones heat up due to warmed smoke gases, without contact with fire.

To connect a stove operating on natural gas, you will need to obtain permission, carry out a project and make approval, as when installing any other gas heat generators.

### Using firewood

A **bathhouse** with a gas-wood stove is also convenient for the fact that if desired it is easy to switch to burning firewood. To do this, in reconnaissance furnaces, a gas.Regional device is pulled out and instead hang a door. When converting, it will be necessary to install a grate, as well as check the fullness of the ash.

Single.Block and paired furnaces do not need to be converted. The working conditions on firewood differ from the use of gas: the temperature of the heat of the chimney, the time necessary for reaching the operating capacity, etc.P.

Single.Block and paired furnaces are convenient in that after the furnace of the bath with wood, you can switch to gas burning, maintaining the necessary temperature in automatic mode.

## The answers of experts

The power of the furnace is selected depending on the volume of the steam room. With good isolation of 1 m3, saunas requires an electric tag of 1 kW. 1 m2 of non.Insulated stone, glass or such a surface requires an increase in the power of the heater by 20%. VDS-SM /ELCTROHARVIA my opinion is a fiction. Enough 4 kilowatts for your **bathhouse**.

Here the power of the electric fireplace depends on the volume of the steam room, the quality of thermal insulation of its walls and atmospheric temperature. Tentatively, it can be accepted that for 1 m3 of the steamer volume, the power consumption is 0.7 kW. This means that at the height of the ceiling 2–2.2 m for heating 1 m. Sq. The area of the steam room requires 1.4–1.6 kW of energy

Convection furnaces can work on almost any fuel. It can be firewood, coal, fuel oil, agricultural waste, pellets, briquettes and so on

It doesn’t matter how to drown such a stove. It is important that it during the furnace, thanks to its device, very quickly begins to warm up the room

An ordinary convection furnace has holes in a special air shirt that surrounds the furnace, or has ribbed surfaces that quickly and strongly warm the air next to them. Hot air from a shirt or heat exchanger rises up. It is immediately replaced by cold air, which is sucked into shirts from below.

The more powerful the stove, the stronger it affects the speed of mixing air masses indoors. This means that the convection oven 20 kW heats the room faster than the same, but 10-15 kW.

And even if you have enough 10 kW furnace to heat your room, a powerful convection furnace will warm this room much faster.

Home convection furnaces. Pros and cons of

Rapid heating of the room, thanks to the ability to actively mix warm and cold air masses in the room.The ability to choose a model with a long combustion mode.Compactness and undemanding in the installation.Small weight due to the use of steel in production.Relative reliability and predictability of the result (when compared with bricks).Convection furnaces on wood and coal 3

The presence of hot surfaces that you can burn about.Lesser time of heat return after flogging.High requirements for installing a chimney to maintain traction and lack of condensate.As usual, there are areas of application where convection furnaces on wood or angle can be very in demand, but there are such. Where they are disadvantageous.

We offer to familiarize yourself with the fastening of the foamyplex to the concrete wall: how to glue, photo

Best of all, such heat generators can be used for heating small rooms or private houses, especially summer cottages. In a situation where the fastest heating of the cold room is required, in which, for example, they come only for the weekend.

It is completely unprofitable to use convection furnaces where heating of several separate rooms is required, especially located at different levels / floors. In this case, the use of a heating boiler with a radiator system, or the use of gas or electric convectors is much more appropriate.

Eliminates the problem of quick cooling of convection furnaces. A cast.Iron bath stove. Good, reliable cast.Iron bath stoves. Svarozhich and Hephaestus, most of which use the convection principle. Cast iron does not burn out, they serve at least 30 years with a guarantee from the manufacturer 5 years.

You can see and order a software here: Svarozhich: Kamin-Komfort /?Page = itemsamp; parentid = 2191

Thermofor: kamin-komfort /?Page = itemsamp; parentid = 553

You need a bath stove, or ordinary? For the bath you need not to warm the air, but to warm the stones that will evaporate steam and warm the steam room. To do this, you need a bath stove Svarojich /Catalog /Pechi_dlya_bani

### Witcher 3. How to Find the Bathhouse!

## Calculation of optimal power

It does not matter in favor of which type of equipment will be preferred. Metal bath furnaces or traditional stone or bricks. You can **calculate** the required power, knowing the cubic meter of the room. In addition, manufacturers usually indicate not only power in kilowatts, but also for the premises of what volume the stoves are intended. This information can also be taken into account.

To determine the cubature, the parameters of the room are needed. Values of length, height and width. The variation of these numbers will give the size of the volume of the room.

The actual cubature of the room is only the original data. This can be called the theory that rarely coincides with practice. In fact, there are a number of parameters that change the requirements for power.

- Insulation. If the decoration inside and thermal insulation are absent (for example, the walls are made of logs), then we multiply the volume by a coefficient of 1.5.
- The presence of non.Insulated surfaces. It is necessary to
**calculate**the area of all surfaces in the room on which there is no thermal insulation. The area of masonry, tiles, windows, etc. The resulting area is multiplied by 1.2 (each square meter of an unleven surface increases the heated volume by 1.2 m 3) and the result is added to the cubic meter. If the glazing window is double, then you can take a coefficient of 0.5. - Type of door. Unenvulated glass or wooden doors to the steam room automatically add another 1.5 m 3.

We will also receive the correct calculation of the necessary power of the furnace when taking into account the material from which the **bathhouse** is built. This fact cannot be lost, since the design of the floor and walls absorbs a significant amount of heat. For example, if your **bathhouse** is built of logs without finishing, it is necessary to additionally apply a coefficient of 1.6; If the internal wall is sheathed with lining and insulation, a reducing coefficient of 0.6 is taken.

A certain role in increasing **power** can play a chimney for a bath furnace, more precisely, its location. If a significant part is located in the room, then it can also become source of additional heat.

The final figure will already be more real. At the same time, choosing a stove, make sure that the resulting indicator is located between the limiting values. For example, if the square of the room, taking into account all coefficients. 25 m 3. Then the furnace should be chosen for the recommended volume of 20-30 m 3. Not 20-25 m 3.

## Bath furnace calculation: necessary power and firebox

No one has doubts that the dimensions of the bath for the bath somehow depend on the power-the larger it is, the more fuel you need to burn, the greater the size of the firebox or the number of heating elements should be. It is also true that the power is a derivative of the size of the room that has to be heated. Therefore, the larger the room, the more the oven.

Therefore, the first thing to do correctly is to **calculate** the power of the unit capable of in winter and in the summer to bring your oven to the desired mode in a reasonable time.

So, what is “reasonable time”? The brick stove is drowning for a long time, less than 4 hours will definitely not go to it. And the metal can cope for half an hour or an hour (depending on the time of year and ambient temperature). Here we will consider it so.

To begin with, we establish what matters when heating:

Therefore, for a naked log house without thermal insulation and even without trimming, you will have to add increasing coefficients. And in winter the bath always drowns longer than in the summer. At the same **power**. For the initial calculation, you can push away from the volume of the room. Divide it by two. Get a very conditional amount of kilowatts required from the stove. Further, only multiplication, because you also need to heat the unit itself, the stones in it, someone needs to warm the water for the washing, and also part of the heat produced will definitely fly into the pipe. Therefore, boldly multiply the received kilowatts by 2.5-3. And it will be a figure that is true for at least a heat-insulated steam room, not combined with a washing. Other information about the steam furnaces is presented in the corresponding article.

In the event that there is no thermal insulation, only a bare log house, we multiply the result again. Now by 1.5.

If your stove has to warm not only the steam room, but also neighboring rooms, then we miss the last step, we return to the penultimate multiplication and multiply it by 2. This power should be enough for adjacent.

However, without having more accurate coefficients, we will continue. Our task is to **calculate** the volume of the firewood furnace, which would correspond to the required power. In principle, you can **calculate** the required amount of heating elements yourself is much easier, because the power of each heating element is known.

So, the volume of the furnace is in the following dependence on the power of the unit:

Furnace power = 0.5 or 0.6 volume volume in liters,

As you can see, you can roughly estimate the furnace litting as twice as much as the required **power**.

It remains only to extract the cubic root to get an idea of linear furnace size. After that, you can already imagine the size of the furnace for the bath (in accordance with the selected design).

Well, it’s time to move on to specifics. Let’s look at the linear parameters of the most interesting models that have already been mentioned in our ratings.