The cooler does not work? How to check quickly and simply
In the article I will give some fast and not very ways to check your computer fans for performance. If the cooler does not work, then for what reason, and whether it is possible to restore it in case of something? Cooling fan, aka cooler, the simplest and most durable mechanism in the computer of the computer. I don’t know what caused its stop, but there are very few reasons.
The cooler does not work? Come on …
The fact that the fan does not spin does not mean that the cooler does not work. Precisely, he is in a non.Working state. High.Quality products are able to perform their function even after long months of downtime, being clogged with dust, but with fed (under load), and without burning. But also on the old woman, as they say.
Let’s check it
In the article I will use improvised tools, the use of which can afford the most obvious humanitarium. If the house contains measuring devices, such as a multimeter, you will not find anything new below in the text.
So, the cooler does not work. What options?
- The mechanism is stained, something interferes physically
- It should not spin, because there is no control signal for rotation (the system believes that the temperature threshold is not reached)
- Lack of an electric signal on the fan itself
How to disassemble the cooler?
What for? Cheap and expensive coolers understand a certain stage: I’m talking about removing the impeller. But most likely you will face a situation where the radio elements themselves are simply unavailable: the design is soldered or glued for stability, so yes. The cooler is often a non.Combination device. But this is not our article.
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We clean and lubricate.
What can interfere with the fan blades spin? Pieces of dust or sagging wires. If the first reason is easy to get rid of cleaning, blowing and subsequent grease, then the second option is often accompanied by a characteristic sound. In any case, you should look at the fan directly. Garbage can get into the mechanism, jamming the movement. We easily diagnose. With a finger on the blades, giving rotation. If the resistance to the fingers is not provided, the blades are easily rotated, pass the paragraph. In the meantime, we just clean (brush or compressed air). Lubricate if necessary.
We tear out the sticker in the part of the entrance of the food wires and take out the rubber plug in the center that protects the mechanism:
Immediately pay attention to the rations of the wires to the board. If you are the owner of a 4 wired cooler, it is better to immediately clean this place with an unnecessary toothbrush or toothpick-often there are simply close contacts:
We pick up the screwdrivers, toothpicks, etc.D. Oil (any technical, vegetable from the kitchen quickly dries, leaving the dirt behind) and soak the mechanism in the center, rotating the shoulder with a finger with a finger. So several times:
Well, I have an oily for a long time for these purposes
It is better to return the plug and the sticker to the place so that the dust does not get here.
Check the fan: A way.
The owners of more “perfect” coolers (or if the resistance of rotation is not found), I will immediately advise you to refer to the cooler for performance. To do this, it does not need to be removed from the established position. If possible, disconnect the connector from the board. If not, we leave in place, however, we immediately note the color of the wires. And for verification for performance, we need only two of them.
The connector in the hands or not, examine the marking of the fan. We are looking for Voltage:
For further verification, we need an appropriate power supply. Battery. She, of course, should not exceed by voltage the parameter indicated on the cooler. I have both fans for 12 in. So the usual 9-volt “crown” is suitable. Better new, not hooked. We mount a couple of guides on its contacts on the knee:
It’s better not to go through them for a long time: nothing will explode, of course, but the power source may come in handy for you.
Let’s get back to the cooler. On the connector is the black wire. “.“, usually red. “” (yellow is not needed, it reads speed; if you have the fourth, all the more we leave at rest, its purpose is to adjust the speed of the cooler, which should be supported by the motherboard). Read more about the device and the principle of working in the article Coler.
Messile wiring of an impromptu battery is planted on the black contact of Jacker Coler, plus. To red:
For clarity, I cut off the cooler connector and click on the video directly to the battery:
Red on “plus”, black. “minus” (there is always a black wire on the cooler). This cooler is working.
Check the fan: Two or Pts method.Skillful pens.
And with the help of this option, you can both check the performance and use the working, but unused cooler as a fan from those power sources that have 12 V output (for example, in the car). And he will connect, cooler, will be via USB cable. This will need:
Everything is simple here. From the cable we cut off the connector to another device, leaving the USB connector itself. We need wires with a color marking you know: black and red. We connect to the corresponding wires of the cooler. Ideole and connect:
Fan resistor functions
The Kalina cooling fan resistor is consistently included in the power circuit, which provides the ability to operate at different speeds. The resistance of the resistor varies depending on the temperature of the coolant and the load on the engine, accordingly, the current and speed of the fan engine. This helps to exclude sharp temperature jumps and observe the optimum engine temperature in all motor operating modes. The fan resistor has a heat.Guide that de.Energizes the electric motor from overload (for example, when jaming the shaft) and thereby protects the wiring from the fire.
So, the load resistor is used in the car cooling system, or rather, in the power circuit of the radiator fan.
It is worth noting that before this electric element was not used in this circuit, and everything worked very simple. When a certain coolant temperature reaches, the temperature sensor closed the contacts of the fan power circuit, and it was included in the operation.
The use of the resistor made it possible to make the operation of the fan of the two. And even three.Mode.
The power supply process to the fan has changed somewhat. Relays were also added to the system, and the electronic control unit is already responsible for turning the fan in modern cars.
That is, the electronic unit analyzes the temperature indicators of the sensor, and gives the signal on the relay.
Depending on the temperature, the relay directs electricity through a certain circuit. If the coolant temperature is slightly exceeded, but its decrease is already required, and the signal from the ECU came, the relay directs electricity through the load resistor, which creates resistance, and the fan begins to rotate at a low speed.
If the temperature further increases and reaches a critical point, the relay will redirect electricity along another circuit. Bypassing the resistor, directly to the fan, which will ensure its work at full power, with a high speed of rotation.
This is a diagram of double.Mode fan operation, which is provided by the presence of a load resistor in the circuit. And she is simplified to make it more clear.
In a car with a trigger operation of the fan, the principle remains the same, but it already uses two resistors. One is responsible for the small revolutions of the fan rotation, the second. For the average.
The third mode is emergency, in which the fan rotates at a maximum speed, is provided by supplying the power supply to it directly.
Sensation of air
Even if you don’t hear how the fan works, the user should feel the air leaving the ventilation holes. The air flow can be very weak when the computer is turned on for the first time, but it intensifies when the system reaches normal operating temperature.
After that, the laptop fan should begin to push the air out of the main exhaust opening, usually located on one of the sides.
You can put your hand with your palm on the system, about half aout doom from the ventilation hole, and feel the air flow. If the laptop works quietly, and there is no air flow, perhaps the cooler is broken.
If you can hear the fan works, but only a weak air flow is felt from the holes, the cooler can be closed, and in this case, the ventilation openings with compressed air should be cleaned.
Observation of errors
If the computer is regularly rebooted without warning, slows down with normal use or gives out a terrible BSOD or “blue death screen”, there may be a problem with the fan.
The fan itself is attached to the radiator as part of the cooling device, so even if it pumps air, problems may occur with another part of the device. The system can overheat if the cooling unit fails or thermal paste connecting the processor and cooling unit, wear out.
Temperature check
Even if the fan pushes a certain amount of air from the ventilation holes, it can still have a hardware problem, for example, a problem with an engine that does not allow it to cool the computer.
Some laptops display the temperature indications when turning on. But if the PC does not provide such information, it is advisable to use the hardware monitor program to check the processor temperature.
If the program records a constant temperature of more than 70 degrees Celsius, when the laptop does absolutely nothing, perhaps the fan is broken.
Elimination of overheating
If the user is sure that the cooler works, but does not cope with his task, he needs to help.
One way to help is to eliminate unnecessary processes. MAC users can isolate and destroy unwanted processes using Activity Monitor, while Windows users can use tasks manager.
Linux users also have a number of options available for process management.
If the problem of heating arises, it may be advisable to prevent the loading of too many processes when downloading a computer.
The Best FREE Fan Control Software for PC
Checking the performance on MacBook
If the user often notices that MacBook heats up hard, especially when he performs heavy tasks or the processor is under high load. In such circumstances, it is important to give macbook to cool and return to normal temperature in order to avoid any critical problems.
The design of new MacBook models is such that the fan is located inside the system and works silently. If MacBook does not cool easily, then one of the reasons may be that the cooler does not work properly. This can lead to overheating of the system in front and back, as well as on loops.
To check whether the MacBook fan works correctly to follow the procedure below:
- Launch Safari and switch to Crystalidea website.
- Download the Macs Fan Control software. Be sure to select a version for Mac OS X.
- After downloading the file, unzip it and double.Click on its icon to run the software.
- On the right, a list of all fans installed in the system will be presented. There is a column with the inscription Min/Current/Max RPM, which shows the speed values of each cooler. The first value is the minimum speed with which the fan should work. The second is the current speed, and the latter is the maximum speed at which it can work.
- To find out the current fan speed, it is enough to check the average of the three of the shown values. If the value is zero (as shown below) or below the minimum number of revolutions, this means that the fan works incorrectly. Otherwise, if the value is not equal to zero and exceeds the minimum number of revolutions per minute, then it works fine.
For some MAC models, the system safely turns off the fan when the processor works at low power. In this case, the fan still functions properly and, if necessary, automatically turns on the system.
If the check shows that the system fan is damaged, then it is best to take your PC to the service center and repair it before it leads to overheating of the hardware and damage to the internal components of the equipment.
How to check the cooler on a laptop: all methods
One of the factors affecting the normal functioning of the laptop elements is the correct operation of the cooling system. If the cooler fails, the details will begin to overheat and fail.
Examination
The sensor is turned off on the engines with the injector, by removing the connector from it, the motor starts up and if the fan works (the ECU “understands” that the system is in a fault and turns on the fan in emergency mode), then the sensor is faulty and it is necessary to replace it.
The valve holds pressure in the systems above atmospheric, avoiding boiling of water in the composition of the working fluid when reaching 100 degrees. If the valve is faulty, then the pressure is equalized with atmospheric and the liquid will boil at 100 degrees.
The sensor itself works at a temperature of 105-107 degrees Celsius. It turns out that the liquid is already boiling, and the fan does not work yet. The cover with the valve must be replaced.
We clean and lubricate.
What can interfere with the fan blades spin? Pieces of dust or sagging wires. If the first reason is easy to get rid of cleaning, blowing and subsequent grease, then the second option is often accompanied by a characteristic sound. In any case, you should look at the fan directly. Garbage can get into the mechanism, jamming the movement. We easily diagnose. With a finger on the blades, giving rotation. If the resistance to the fingers is not provided, the blades are easily rotated, pass the paragraph. In the meantime, we just clean (brush or compressed air). Lubricate if necessary.
We tear out the sticker in the part of the entrance of the food wires and take out the rubber plug in the center that protects the mechanism:
Immediately pay attention to the rations of the wires to the board. If you are the owner of a 4 wired cooler, it is better to immediately clean this place with an unnecessary toothbrush or toothpick-often there are simply close contacts:
We pick up the screwdrivers, toothpicks, etc.D. Oil (any technical, vegetable from the kitchen quickly dries, leaving the dirt behind) and soak the mechanism in the center, rotating the shoulder with a finger with a finger. So several times:
Well, I have an oily for a long time for these purposes
Ceiling Fan Speed Switch. Free Fix
It is better to return the plug and the sticker to the place so that the dust does not get here.
Fan control scheme in Niva Chevrolet
Before proceeding with the diagnosis, you need to figure out how the fan electric motors work. To do this, study the corresponding electrical circuit:
As can be seen from the circuit, fan control on Niva Chevrolet occurs using two ECU outputs:
There is a separate output 75 Pina. It includes the right fan for constant rotation when the air conditioner is turned on.
We have already mentioned in one of the articles about the fan operation algorithm, but we recall once again:
When a temperature of 99 degrees reaches, the right fan is turned on through a resistor at low speed. If the temperature continues to grow and reaches 100-101 degrees, then two fans are turned on. They work until the temperature drops to 93 degrees.
Since 2017, according to the new fan control scheme: at first both fans are included in sequentially in half as without a resistor, and then both in full force directly. The scheme is also relevant for Niva Travel.
If you have nothing like this, then there is a malfunction. But it should be taken into account that trusting the indicator of the temperature indicator on the VAZ 2121 instrument panel should not be. Often, this device shows erroneous data, and overstated. The most accurate devices in this case will be diagnostic equipment or on.Board computer.
How the fan cools the engine on the Peugeot 308?
Thanks to the cooler’s blades, the air masses are captured and their movement to the radiator (in it, the circulating fluid is cooled).
The failure of any part of the injection system leads to a critical engine heating temperature. It is unacceptable.
When the car is moving, the fan can be turned on only on hot days, since the cooling flow of air in winter, spring and autumn is quite enough. But there are times when the car is, for example, in the city “traffic jam”. In this case, you can’t do without a working cooler.
Vetrodui
Speed is better cooling, but this is only partly true. As it accelerates, ceteris paribus, engine power and the amount of heat “discarded” into the cooling system grow almost along the speed cube, and the pressure of the wind only in the square. It happens that with optimal 90-100 km/h, even with a dirty radiator, and at a maximum speed, the electric fan does not turn off. One step before overheating. It is better to lose the gas. Of course, there are traffic modes and zerevel. Also associated with high power returns, but at low speeds, when the oncoming flow is weak or not (with a fair wind). Moving in the first gear in deep sand, on a steep rise in the mountain road, towing another car along the mud, you can’t do without forced blowing the radiator! His refusal. As a verdict of the engine.
There are two types of fan drives. Mechanical (usually wedge.Rephid transmission) and electric. The first revolution of the impeller and the engine is rigidly connected. With low speeds and a large load, it is dangerous: blowing is weak. At other modes, the fan, constantly rotating, unreasonably consumes engine power and fuel, and after starting in the frost slows down the heating of the motor. The drive with the WISKOFTA is more “conscious”. It monitors the temperature of the coolant in the radiator. This system received “UAZ-Patriot”.
Electric fan is more economical: it works only when it is necessary, and its power is several times less than the power of the mechanical fan promoted to maximum speed. But with low engine speeds and high load, the mechanical “windfill” is inferior to electric, the latter is more efficient. With large loads and engine speeds, the electric fan is usually inferior to mechanical. At high speeds the latter more than the air consumption. Type choice. Designer business. Today, electric cars are dominated by cars.
There seems to be nothing to refuse in the mechanical fan. Unless the blades managed to break off or belt was torn from oversight. The latter was not replaced on the road! And how else, if on some machines he also leads the pump of the cooling system. And the breakdown of the electric fan is in great variety.
Often he does not work due to the refusal of the temperature sensor, about whose whims (especially on carburetor cars, with a sensor in a radiator) we have said more than once. Causes? This, for example, is a burning of the sensor contacts in road traffic jams, when it, turning on and disconnecting, is reversed many times. The sensor in the block head works stable, as is done on most injection cars. There are, however, exceptions like injector cars gas with a traditional sensor in the radiator.
Some craftsmen, without trusting the sensor, put an additional switch to turn on the fan if you need it. Our attitude to the idea is ambiguous. How to find out that it’s time to turn it on? God forbid, if the temperature sensor is really lying or you are forgotten. In the author’s opinion, the staff system is more attractive. There is a reason to maintain it in good condition, and not to fence the garden.
Note that the fan of the cooling system can put such a pig that you do not wait for! A wonderful lesson was taught to us “Chevrolet-Niva”, which has two electric fanboxes-excellent plastic wingers with bandages in the outer diameter, rotating for the most efficiency in plastic rings-grooves! All “in science”. The most advanced, did not take into account only a trifle circumstance: the plastic does not withstand the temperature of the air leaving the radiator. Looks like she was selected, taking care of only a low price! Once, heated well, the impeller lost rigidity, the rings-bandages began to touch the casing and melt at the points of contact. The driver did not notice this. And the next day, the fans were jammed. On the eve after turning off the motor, they were welded to the casing. Good story? How can you not recall the “good old” metal casings!
The long-known circuit of the electric fence (carburetor VAZ-2104, 2105 2107, “Oka”, “ODA”, etc.). The electric fan 1 is launched at the command of the relay 3, controlled by the temperature sensor of the temperature sensor, usually located in the radiator. The security of the system is assigned to the fuse 4. The temperature threshold of turning the fan is about 100 ° C or a little lower. There are corresponding numbers on the sensor case. For example, for Zhiguli 87–92 ° C.
Fan control typical for many injection cars. Electricant 1 is turned on through relay 3 according to the signal of the temperature sensor 2. The latter is located in the engine. Upon reaching the operation temperature, contact 85 of the relay through contact 68 of the controller 5 is closed to the “mass”. The threshold of turning the fan on these machines can be higher than 100 ° C. For example, on the VAZ-2110-about 104 ° C. The decision is made by the expansion controller by analyzing the temperature sensor signal.
Когда пластиковые «украшения» на российских автомобилях коробятся даже под лучами утренней луны — это полбеды. But often plastics of inappropriate quality are used in responsible nodes. And this is already trouble. Here is an example: the design of the “led”. The impeller began to touch the fixed rings of the case, in these places the plastic was heated to melting, and after stopping the impeller engine, they welded to the case. By the way, at the top between them is the same additional resistor, but there is a lot of sense from the smart system if marriageables made it?
This is how the brush nodes of electric motor (“Chevrolet-Niva” look). Four brushes contribute to the production of a fairly high power of the motor and increased speed of the impeller rotation. At the same time, the design is very compact. Not example with plastic casings, the electric motor is made in conscience. The refusal is unlikely, which is confirmed by the experience of the owners.
Rotor of the fan electric motor. Pay attention to the collector. Dark traces on the lamella left too much current when trying to turn on the “cooked” fan. Fortunately, there were no more severe consequences. Both electric motors even retained performance and, after replacing the melted parts of the fans, they again serve us.
Additional resistor. A serious product, we are not yet known about the failures. At the same time, it is unlikely that anyone will rewind such a resistor: it is better to replace the damaged. In addition to the Chevrolet-VAZ 2121, designed for use in Kalina, sometimes found on the injection “Niva” VAZ-21214.
Original control circuit “Lada-Kalina”. Power supply to the fan electric motor 1 is received either through relay 3 and additional resistor 2 (low rotation speed), or through relay 4 (high rotation speed). Corresponding contacts of the controller. 29 and 68. The system of the system determines the expansion controller depending on the readings of the temperature sensor of 5. For our auto industry, this is essentially a novelty. In foreign cars, such a scheme has been known for many years. Indeed, it is not necessary to immediately turn on the fan to all power, often enough of it is half.Hearted.
