How to choose the right fan in the room

Kitchen ventilation systems: natural or forced ventilation

Not everyone knows about what ventilation scheme for the kitchen is better, the standard natural, when the exhaust gases come out through a channel to the street, or forced (for the removal of contaminated oxygen is used fan). There is no definite answer to this question, because each of the hoods performs its functions, has its own advantages and disadvantages.

In the kitchen, regardless of its location (in an apartment or a private house) the existence of a natural ventilation system is mandatory. Particular attention should be paid to the operability of equipment, and especially if the room is a gas stove. In this case noxious emissions will be conducted to the exit through a vertical natural ventilation duct. Extraction rules do not consider forced ventilation a mandatory engineering communication, it only provides comfort to occupants. Next we will describe each of the types of air exchange in more detail, consider their strengths and weaknesses.

Natural ventilation in the kitchen

Exhaust ventilation in the kitchen is familiar to all tenants by the vertical shafts, which have an outlet on the roof of the residential building. Harmful substances and vapors are evacuated through these passages, and fresh air enters the rooms through the cracks in the windows or special valves on the frames. Warm air heated by the cooking stove tends upwards, it accumulates on the ceiling and escapes through the ventilation hole outside the house. It is replaced by fresh oxygen from the street.

Proper, well-mounted ventilation for the kitchen in the apartment removes a small amount of waste gas, but does so continuously. Ventilation duct cleaned from debris can remove carbon monoxide and minor fuel leaks from the kitchen equipment. For quality removal of extraneous odors must be installed hood over the stove.

Supply air has the following benefits:

• The quality of air exchange in the apartment;
• removal of harmful substances that are emitted during cooking;
• removal of odors and increased humidity when several burners are turned on;
• No financial investment in the operation of the system;
• noiselessness.

Ventilation in the kitchen with a hood has the following disadvantages:

• Reduced efficiency in the presence of hot weather;
• the possibility of air backflow from the street into the kitchen;
• relatively small volume of processed air per unit time;
• it is necessary to constantly check the draft in the ventilation duct.

Not all country property owners know how to arrange a natural ventilation system in a private home. In this case, the ducts will be made in the walls of the household premises, such as bathroom, toilet and kitchen. For quality air ventilation of the whole house, not just these rooms, you need to let in additional air flow from the bedroom, living room or dining room. In some cases you need to keep the windows open.

If the kitchen is equipped with a four burner gas stove, the hourly volume of air processed must be within 90 m3. For effective operation of the ventilation system it is necessary to install a duct with a cross-section of 0.02m2. This parameter corresponds to a pipe diameter of 16 cm or a rectangular duct built of bricks with a side size of 14 cm. The entrance to the duct located on the ceiling or at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from it. To ensure a stable draught you need a ventilation duct from 5 meters long.

Forced exhaust system

The term forced ventilation means an engineering system in which contaminated air flows outward using a fan. In the kitchen, such devices are installed by different methods:

• Into the vertical ventilation shaft.
• In a hole made in the wall of the building. In this case, the contaminated air will be carried out of the kitchen outside, bypassing the ventilation shafts.
• Corrugated ductwork from a kitchen hood can be inserted into a window.
• Some consumers install a special device, an exhaust hood, above the gas stove. Dirty air can escape from the kitchen into a natural ventilation shaft or directly to the outside through the hole in the wall.

The advantages of connecting an exhaust fan or kitchen hood are:

• Improved performance. Efficient ventilation in the kitchen quickly removes odors and accumulated airborne contaminants.
• The kitchen hood above the stove removes harmful substances before they enter the space of the room.
• Dirty air is only expelled from the room when the fan is running.
• Such a system requires a financial investment. In addition to the cost of the cooker hood, you have to pay for the electricity you consume all the time.

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There are a few important things to keep in mind when installing a ventilator in the shaft. The fact that such a device has a check valve, which prevents the suction of dirty air when the hood is not working. This valve must be removed so that it does not interfere with the operation of the natural exhaust system. It should be noted that the performance of the device will coincide with the passport data only in the case of the device horizontal diverting duct of small length. A modern ducted hood connected to a ducted sewage system will have a lower capacity than originally specified.

The system of air intake and exhaust has a certain principle of operation. It involves artificially forcing air masses into the room through the use of a fan. This results in a pressure difference and the “exhaust” air, tending to self-adjust this imbalance, escapes out through the special exhaust ducts.

In general, extractor fans are fans in which the impeller is placed on the same shaft as the electric motor. The air stream is sucked inside through the louvers, which sometimes act as a check valve.

This type of hoods, as a rule, are mounted in windows, but sometimes in the presence of a small duct and insufficient extraction, certain products are built directly into the wall. In the case of installation of a long air duct, centrifugal type fans are used. In them, the air jet is directed perpendicular to the motor shaft.

Operating mechanisms for extraction can be in manual and automated start. In the first case, to start the mechanism, you need to turn it on with a switch. And in the second, the product will begin to work when certain conditions are reached. These can be: the occurrence of a set degree of humidity, the switching on of a light bulb, or the completion of a preset time range.

Also in the manual setting of the hood it is possible to turn on the heating in winter and turn it off in summer, which of course saves energy. A special heat exchanger, recuperator, is used to heat the incoming air mass. This mechanism works on the principle of mutual heating, that is, the outgoing air stream heats the incoming in the room. In this case, they move in an isolated manner, and no mixing occurs.

Using foil to cool the room

Strange as it may seem, this material copes well with high temperatures.

• Buy rolls of 5 meters or more.
• This material should be glued to walls or windows on either side. For maximum effect, wrap the entire window surface.
• This method is especially useful if you live in an apartment with windows on the south-west and south side. That is where the sun’s rays are most intense.
• To cool the house in hot weather with foil can also be from the fact that the material prevents the sun from penetrating the carpets, furniture and other interior elements, from which the temperature increases from heating.
• Research by scientists has proven that all rooms are not just heated by the air but by the objects on which the rays are shining. Heated objects come in contact with the air, which leads to a suffocating heat in the house.
• The only downside is the aesthetic component. The foil glued on the walls and windows does not add beauty to the interior.

How to connect the fan in the bathroom to the switch 3 mistakes and wiring diagrams.

Connecting a bathroom exhaust fan can be done in several ways.

The first options have a lot of inconvenience, at first not really noticeable.

For example, you mounted the inclusion of the hood on the door opening sensor. In this case, it turns off by timer after 5 minutes. It would seem very convenient.

But it is rather problematic to install such a sensor on an interior door. Not to mention other points of operation. For example, what to do if you stay in the toilet longer than the set time.

Opening and closing the door all over again? What if you have guests in the kitchen??

In addition, you will have to lead the cables under the tiles, drill a few extra holes, etc.п. While simple motion sensors are capricious to humidity and fail very quickly.

We will have to choose expensive models with the appropriate IP humidity protection, according to the zones in the bathroom.

Some people find it most convenient to install a switch on the hood directly inside the bathroom. But the PUE prohibits it.

Why this is so, the relevant links and explanations of Rostechnadzor experts will be given at the end of the article.

Therefore, consider the most correct and reliable way. connection from the switch to the lighting, located on the outside of the bathroom.

You will need very few materials for installation:

Which one is better to choose, read the article “The best cable for wiring NYM or VVGNG-Ls.

The body of most hoods are plastic, so these models do not need to ground. If you have ventilation with metal elements, then you will need a 4-core cable 41.5 mm2

Loads here are small, so these controversial to many terminals will be quite appropriate here. No need for stranding, followed by welding, soldering or crimping.

In our market the most popular is the ERA model. That’s what we will consider in more detail.

Other mechanisms and models with a timer from Vents, Ballu, Electrolux are connected in a similar way.

Here are technical specifications and details on all popular models:

These timer fans have two modes of operation:

Mode switching is done on the control board in the upper right corner.

There are similar jumpers and other manufacturers.

When working in “toilet” mode, after turning on the light and power to the board, the ventilation immediately starts working. Once the light is turned off, the fan does not stop, but will continue to spin for a certain time.

You set this time yourself by unscrewing the adjusting screw with a screwdriver.

In the “bathroom” mode, the operation is slightly different. This mode is suitable for showers and bathrooms, without a toilet.

For example, if you take a shower or bath, the noise of the blades and drafts will only interfere. Therefore, when you turn on the light in the room, the fan does not work.

Managed by all this is just from the light switch, standing in the hallway.

Usually there’s a junction box with wires above this switch. It can enter 3 cables:

How to connect, and what will be the connection diagram of all these wires in the box and on the fan? Schematically it can be drawn as follows:

To connect all the contacts, from the box to the location of the installation of ventilation, you will need to lay another cable VVGNG-Ls 31.5 mm2.

The cable ends are stripped on both sides and signed.

There is no need to twist anything, put everything on Wago clamps.

First you connect the L phase, connect to the main power cable from the switchboard.

That’s why, one phase cable is connected directly before the light switch.

That’s why a three-core cable is used here. If you have a bathroom comes in only 2 wires, to implement a scheme with a timer will not work.

Phase T, which is fed to the fan timer is connected after the switch. That is, to the wire that goes to the fixtures in the bathroom.

So it’s the light switch that controls the ventilation. It remains to properly connect all the wires on the fan itself.

Remove the protective trim frame to get to the contacts.

In the upper right corner there is a timer. Immediately adjust it for the approximate operating time. Adjustment is over a wide range. from 15 seconds to 45 minutes.

Some of them have it turned almost to zero from the factory. As a consequence, the blades stop spinning immediately after the light is turned off.

People think that the hood is broken. Although it was enough just to tighten the screw.

Now connect the cables to the appropriate terminals:

Note, if you have only 2 wires phase and zero, you have to make a jumper between terminals N and T in order for the system to work in manual mode at least.

Then the device will only work when you turn on and off the light keys. No automation and time delays are out of the question here.

Even on some models, it affects the correct connection of the zero. N and phase. L conductor. If your fan behaves incomprehensibly and works or refuses to work correctly, try reversing them.

Check the indicator light, where it comes phase and once again check with the scheme specified in the passport of the device.

It is better to make the fastening on the glue or sealant.

Drilling holes for dowels is often problematic:

Another good option. is the connection of the fan through the same light switch, but already two-key.

Here the circuit will look like this:

In fact, you would have the cooker hood sitting there no matter what the light was on. But to do this, you will most likely have to change the one-chamber model on the two-chamber. Plus pull the extra cable from the socket down.

There are some pitfalls. First of all, don’t mix up the phase connection on the breaker terminals.

Secondly, do not forget that through the given switching device, should break namely phase, and not zero. Even with the correct initial connection, over time, the circuit can spontaneously change.

It is enough for some local electrician to accidentally swap two conductors L and N in a common switchboard or entrance wiring. And you automatically change the “polarity” of all light switches in the entire apartment.

What’s the risk?? Well, for example, if you only turn on one fan with a second button, you may have the LED light in the toilet flicker, flash, and go out.

The effect is quite well-known for LED lights.

If you have initially refused to use junction boxes and use for switching deep sub-sockets, then the third connection scheme will be similar, and the differences are almost not noticeable.

Simply all connections are made directly in the socket. You can crimp them or use the same Wago clamps if the space allows it.

There are also expensive expensive models with remote control.

The sixth edition of the EARP clause.7.1.39 it was explicitly stated that the installation of switches in bathrooms and toilets is prohibited.

In the PUE 7th edition clause.7.1.52, the wording was changed slightly, extending the definition of “switches” to include “switchgear” and “controlgear.

True, they left a loophole for models with cords.

However, many have doubts about the interpretation of the “outdated” rules. After all, there are other points, which seem to contradict the above. For example n.7.1.47

That is, as if you can put a switch, but you only need to do it in zone 3. In the same place as the sockets.

In houses with improved planning come across such size bathrooms that zone 4 can be found if you try hard.

In small apartments, however, there is no room for more than the first two zones.

But how do they work?7.1.52? Maybe it applies more to public buildings than to simple apartments and apartment buildings?

This is what an expert, who is directly related to all of these rules, answered to these contradictions:

You can do whatever you want, nobody forbids it. You can connect the sockets with loops.

Some people even in private homes, instead of air input, bury CIP wires in the ground and nothing happens.

But if it’s a building that’s going to be built according to a bill of sale, you probably won’t get an energy audit certificate. And you’d have to redo the whole thing.

And to find such a moisture-proof switch is not an easy task.

Otherwise, because of moisture on the contacts, you firstly, after a while these same contacts will catch fire and will spark, with unpredictable consequences.

And secondly, because of leakage currents, which will certainly be present at such a switch, you are tortured to look for the cause of false tripping RCD.

If you don’t have one, expect an electric shock. In the beginning a slight tingling sensation, but then who knows?

over, even if it is a touch-sensitive switch, the prohibition applies here too.

You are allowed to install them inside only if they are powered by batteries or extra-low voltage sources. That’s another expert’s answer:

2 Connection of the fan from the internal wiring of fixtures located in the bathroom.

Seemingly the simplest and least expensive option. But do not forget that for the correct operation of the fan on his control board should always be present voltage, regardless of whether the light in the toilet or not.

And if you power the ventilation from the nearest light bulb, it will work only as long as the same light bulb is lit.

Put out the light when leaving the toilet, will turn off and the hood does not really ventilate the room. Yes, and bathing in the bathroom, you do not want to feel a constant draft from the ventilation shaft. And if you have quite a powerful and productive fan?

3 The use of all kinds of remote sensors (not built into the fan itself). of motion, humidity, etc.д.

There is no big mistake, but as mentioned above, in the process of operation can be confronted with inconvenient moments.

In addition, if we read the rules strictly, these same sensors, in fact, are nothing more than a control device.

And placing them inside bathrooms, without the proper protection and performance, again, not recommended.

Well, do not forget about their short lifespan and possible glitches with spontaneous switching on and off.

How to choose a fan for bathroom and toilet

Everything seems to be simple, we decided that we need a fan, we go to the store and buy. But quickly only cats are born. In the store there is a big surprise of many kinds and models. Where a few dozen, and where a couple of hundreds gathers And you’ll be stuck wondering what kind of fan to put in the bathroom?

This is not surprising. Different types, power, models, installation methods, characteristics of this variety of technical progress in the field of ventilation. It’s hard for the salespeople to understand if the range is so big.

So we’ve put together a guide to bathroom fans. To make your task easier and help you quickly buy the right equipment. And first let’s deal with the general characteristics of bathroom fans

Axial, centrifugal what does it mean?

It’s a type or type of fan. It talks about the design of the equipment and how it works.

Axial fan is a vane impeller in a casing. The impeller is rotated by the motor, on the rotor of which it is mounted. The blades are tilted inward relative to the plane of placement, they draw in air well and move it in a straight line. That is why this type is called an axial fan. It is distinguished by a good productivity, average noise level, and it is often taken for installation in the bathroom.

The centrifugal fan works differently. Air is sucked in by a turbine with blades. Inside the housing, the flow is wound into a spiral and is accelerated by the centrifugal force. The flow does not come out in a straight line, but at a 90 degree angle in a special device. The centrifugal fan is also called a radial fan.

Less powerful than axial fans, but can produce flow at varying pressures. Noise levels are low to medium, depending on the direction of inflection of the rotor blades. It makes less noise with the front bend and more noise with the back one, but it saves energy.

Overhead or duct

Ventilation equipment is for outdoor installation and for indoor installation. Outdoor type of installation is mounted on a wall or ceiling on the exit of the ventilation hole in the shaft or in the pipe system. Duct fan is built-in equipment that is put inside the ventilation duct (duct). Ventilation duct systems are made of metal or plastic. For the bathroom, plastic duct systems are more often used, such as those by Vents.

Often, the outlet to the ventilation shaft is located in the toilet. A duct with an intake grille is installed for bathroom extraction. Ventilation hose is pulled up to the shaft window. Duct fan with an additional grille is installed in the toilet. The extractor simultaneously draws air from the entire bathroom and directs it to the ventilation shaft of the house. By design, outdoor and duct fans are made both axial and centrifugal.

Choosing a bathroom fan by wattage

The power level or fan capacity is one of the main characteristics. In fact, this is how you select the hood, paired with the design (axial/centrifugal). Performance tells how many cubic meters of air the fan pumps per hour 100, 200, 300.

To choose the right capacity, you need to calculate the volume of the bathroom and multiply it by 8. Eight represents the sanitary requirement for the number of air changes in the room per hour. Simply put, the fan has to pump the volume of your eight bathrooms. Then it will be clean, beautiful and no mold.

How to calculate the volume? Very simply take the length of the room, width, height of the ceiling, multiply and get the required number. Multiply that by eight and we have a minimum value of power.

Choice of a fan in the bathroom by noise level

Hoods are noisy, but not too noisy. If you want absolutely silent take an axial model from the Silent line. They have a motor mount on silent blocks that dampens noise and vibration. Among the quiet ones, you can choose a model with a noise level as low as 22 dB.

Centrifugal ones are louder because the turbine blows air under pressure. But they also make a medium noise, about the same as a cooler in a computer. It doesn’t keep you from watching movies, listening to music, or playing games. So the fan will be just a background, if you are in the bathroom when it is on.

Which fan in the bathroom or toilet is better reviews of additional functions

Today’s technology is capable of much, and fans are available with different additional functions. Their list includes:

• Additional sensors. They measure humidity or react to movement.
• Off timer. On it you can set the time delay of shutdown, at least 2 minutes, maximum 30.
• Indicator light. Lights up while the fan is running.
• Lanyard switch. You can turn the hood on and off at any time. For example, when taking a shower or bath. That is, when the light in the bathroom is lit, the fan does not automatically start.
• Automatic louvers. They are used to close the ventilation grille after turning off the duct fan.
• Check valve. Its main task is to prevent the penetration of extraneous odors from the ventilation shaft.

According to our customer feedback, the most common models are those with humidity sensors and off timer. Check valve, which closes the air flow from the sump or duct back to the fan, is already part of the design. Very seldom it is sold separately and it is considered an additional option.

Degree of moisture protection

All bathroom fans have an increased moisture protection rating of 4-5, dust protection can be either zero or 3-4. The equipment certificate will say IP X4, 34, 44, 45.

We have got the characteristics, now let’s talk about the assortment.

There are a lot of fans. They differ in different parameters and characteristics. In addition, depending on their design, installation techniques may differ. And this must be taken into account when choosing a bathroom fan.

Classification of fans

Axial fans are the most simple in design, compact and adapted to installation in the bathroom. They are so called because the air extracted moves along the axis of rotation of the rotor and in the same direction goes outside.

According to the power of household bathroom fans are divided into three types.

According to the place of installation, a distinction is made between wall and ceiling fans. Wall-mounted mounted horizontally to the bathroom wall, easy to install. Ceiling fans are mounted more in private homes, where ventilation goes first to the attic and then to the roof.

Household fans are also available overhead and duct. Overhead installed at the entrance to the ventilation duct. Ducted fans are installed inside the ducts.

The blowers are equipped with additional elements:

• The owner of the apartment or house has to determine which one he or she needs and which one he or she doesn’t;
• humidity sensors;
• backlighting;
• motion detectors;
• lanyard switches;
• check valves;
• automatic blinds.

The owner of the apartment or house must determine which of the additional services he or she needs, and which are quite possible to refuse. It is important, t. к. each such option is accompanied by an increase in the price of the product.

Fan calculation

It is equally important to choose a fan for the bathroom with the right capacity, since electricity is now expensive and is constantly increasing in price. So save everything.

To determine the air volume, multiply these numbers. So 6,1 m³. The sanitary standard is that the air volume should be changed 8 times per hour. It comes out 6,1 x 8 = 48,8 m³/h. Adding for a 20% reserve. That makes 48.8 x 0.2 = 9.76

Thus, to install in such a visit is suitable fan with a diameter of the nozzle 100 mm and a capacity of 100 m ³ / hr, as devices with lesser power are not available.

Where to place the fan in the room?

When you do not have enough money for a good air conditioner, you can somehow escape the heat with the help of an ordinary fan. It does not lower the temperature in the room, but through the movement of air cools the body.

The fan must be placed properly so that the air flow was focused directly on the person. It can be turned on in both no-motion and rotary mode. The fan can be a floor fan or a table fan. It is better to buy a floor fan, as it is convenient to place it anywhere, as well as at any height. The main thing is that the fan was not installed near a table with documents or other light objects, which can even fly from the air flow.

Fan, the cost of which depends on its functionality, brand awareness, capacity of the model. Most fans have three speeds, a twist mode, night lighting, and sometimes a temperature sensor. Of the additional features, it is very convenient when the fan is adjusted by remote control. The power of the air flow will depend on the size of the fan blades and their speed of rotation. Firmly installed fine mesh prevents the blades from hitting. If there is a child in the house, you need to buy a model with a fine protective mesh, and the fan should be installed in a place inaccessible to the child. It should have a stable leg.

To be able to adjust the height and direction of the air it is desirable to pick up the fan with the possibility of fixing it in the right position.

An ordinary room fan can cool the temperature of the room by several degrees, if special measures are necessary for this. If you put two plastic bottles with ice in front of the switched on fan, then within half an hour the temperature will drop a couple of degrees.

It can also partially purify the air in the room. To do this, use a spray gun to spray water in front of the fan, but make sure the moisture never gets onto the motor. Dust particles from the air will attach to water particles in a strong current. Such measures will be useful in case of intense heat and lack of moisture in the room. Expensive models can have a function of ionization and humidification of the air, but their cost is almost the same as the air conditioner.

Fans can be ordered both on the Internet and bought in an electronics store. On the network, most models are cheaper, but the fan will come disassembled and still need to be assembled.

A few simple tips

Tip One

It is not a good idea to air the apartment during the day. From noon to four in the afternoon, the heat can be felt most strongly and is most dangerous. If you open the windows at this time, the rooms will fill with hot air.

The best time to ventilate is early in the morning, from 5:00 a.m.00 to 8.Do not leave the room until after 9 p.m. or after 10 p.m. in the late evening.00.

Tip number two

Humidify the air. Saturating the air in the room with moisture will not only help to cool the apartment, but will also have a beneficial effect on the condition of the inhabitants of the house. The air gets drier during the heat wave, and this can be prevented.

Humidify the air in your rooms with specially designed humidifiers or a simple spray. It is advisable to spray water in the air every forty minutes or place containers of water in several places in the room. If desired, a fragrance can be added to the water for a pleasant odor. You can read about the types of humidifiers here //ventilation-conditioning.ru/zdorove/uvlazhniteli-vozdukha.html.

Tip number three

Close the windows during the day! Normal curtains, even if you keep them closed during a period of extreme heat, let in heat and sunlight. If necessary, you can cover the windows with a piece of cardboard that can be easily removed during the morning and evening hours.

Tip number four

Frozen water. Ice can perfectly cool the air in the apartment, because when the water melts, it gives off cold to the environment. It is enough to put a few containers of ice in the room and leave them there all day long.

To help us beat the heat, we can freeze ice cubes and wipe our skin with them during the day.

Tip Five

Less cooking. During the day, it is better to refuse cooking on the stove or in the oven, since it will only heat up the house more. Cold foods such as salads, fruit, okroshka, etc., can be eaten during hot and sweltering periods.д.

How to cool the room with a special film without air conditioning

There is another solution to the above problem that can cool rooms without air conditioning. There are special films-curtains on sale, which are easily attached to the plastic frame by gluing. They are more expensive than foil, but the described product has a number of advantages. They more than compensate for the material costs. The material from which the films are made is much stronger and more reliable than fragile foil. Therefore, it will be easier to darken and cool the house without an air conditioner: there is no need to fear that one careless movement will lead to damage to the base. The products described are sold in rolls.

You can choose the desired width (60 cm or one meter). One roll length. three meters. If you make the installation of the film accurately, the window will look quite presentable. It effectively reflects the sun’s rays without obstructing the view of the street from the inside. Due to this property, it is possible to close all the windows in the picture, providing maximum protection of the living space from the sun. Using such technology, it is possible to cool the air temperature by three or four degrees without air conditioning.

Blinds instead of air conditioning

If there is a desire to simultaneously darken the apartment, to hide its interior space from prying eyes, it is worth to choose and purchase specialized systems. Sun blinds are very popular. They come in several types: roll-up, horizontal, vertical. All designs are very convenient to use, they will all help to effectively darken and thus cool the temperature in the room without air conditioning.

Manufacturers offer different versions of the described products. There are blinds made of plastic, wood, woven material. Buyers are presented with a very wide range of colors, so it will not be difficult to choose something most suitable for the style of decoration and make the blackout part of the interior.

Fabric blinds place air conditioning

They can also be used for shading and protection from the sun. For this you need to sew them from a dense material that does not let the light in. It is not cheap, so you will have to spend a lot. And this is the main disadvantage of the described choice. Those whose fundamental factor is not economy, can afford to decorate their windows chic, combining different types of designs. Designers prefer to create complicated drapery structures which can emphasize the decorations stylistics and contribute to the reduction of the temperature inside the room without air conditioner.

Roman, pleated, French, Austrian, heavy London. in the first place in such a variant of shading comes to the aesthetic component. In order to avoid that the room was not overloaded with heavy dense fabrics, it is necessary to buy a veil, organza or tulle in pair with it. This will noticeably increase the estimate of the blackout. This should be taken into account when choosing such a method of protection from the sun.

Regular humidification instead of air conditioning

Specialists, telling about how you can cool the room without air conditioning, advise to humidify the air in the apartment constantly. It can be done with the help of mechanical devices (steam, ultrasonic devices) or with the help of an ordinary spray. It is not difficult to make it yourself, using the container from a window wiper.

It should be washed thoroughly beforehand and filled with cool running water. To cool the room a little, it is enough to sprinkle moisture every forty minutes. If there is a desire to exclude the factor of human presence at all, you just need to place pots in the corners of the room, filled to the top with water. Regular moisturizing will eliminate the dryness of the air space, will not let dust fly all over the apartment and will cool the air in the apartment without air conditioner.

Turning a fan into an air conditioner

An ordinary fan does not clean or humidify the air. It provides only its circulation within one closed space. And it helps a lot to feel quite comfortable in hot weather. Everybody knows how such units work and how they are designed. But if you try to combine their principle of operation and humidifier functions, you can effectively cool the air without air conditioning.

To do this, you need to place a row of plastic bottles filled with ice water in front of the device. Practice shows that it is a very effective way to solve the problem very quickly.

To increase the efficiency and to provide the air conditioning in the whole apartment another model can help. To make one, you need to take a garden hose, wrap it around the fan screen to leave gaps for airflow. One end of the hose is then connected to the cold water supply, and the other end goes down into the sink or bathtub. Just turn on the fan and a little water pressure to fill the room with cool air. If to replace the rubber hose with copper pipe, the cost of self-made installation will increase, but its efficiency will improve. This way you can cool the apartment without an air conditioner in a few minutes.

How to cool a room in hot weather without air conditioner with ice

You can increase the effect of the fan if instead of cold water tanks you put a container full of ice in front of it. When heated, it will evaporate, and throw a portion of cold air into the room. The fan will blow it all over the room.

You can freeze ice water in a container and then put it in front of a fan as well. Those who have tried this method say that it works really well. As an option, if the heat interferes with sleep, experts recommend putting a hot water bottle with ice in the bed, hang the bed linen in the air beforehand, and then tuck it into the bed. It will be much easier to sleep without an air conditioner.

Use wet sheets. forget the conditioner

Who does not have an air conditioner at home, can use another simple technique. To implement it, you need to soak the bedding in water, put them neatly in a bag, place them in the freezer. After a few minutes to take out and hang in the room. It will immediately become a few degrees cooler. While some sheets are hanging, others should be put in the refrigerator. And then alternate.

If you point a fan at the laundry, you can cool the room faster and let the cold, moist air in. The apartment will immediately become easier to breathe. The main thing is not to direct the cold air at yourself, or you will quickly catch a cold.