How to disassemble a hair dryer rowenta ph 230

ROWENTA CV 8642

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Rowenta PH.080 hair dryer review and disassembly

Another ancient product. Rowenta Hairstyle PH hair dryer.080. made as far back as 1997, t.е. 22 years ago. But it still works, although it squeaks at times. This hair dryer has done enough work in its life, it’s time to. To disassemble and scrap.

Click on photo to enlarge!

disassemble, hair, dryer, rowenta

So, the Rowenta Hairstyle PH hair dryer.080 (sometimes called PH-080), made of light, almost white plastic, good quality. The hair dryer is compact, it has only one nozzle (maybe originally there were more? I don’t know). The electric wire is good. “greasy,” strong. the handle has a loop to hang the hair dryer on a hook.

The back side: the grill that covers the fan. Then a big blue switch for three positions. off, medium mode and maximum mode. Below the icon. Do not use in the bathtub.

The front side: the nozzle is removed so as not to interfere, under it the grid. also for safety reasons.

On the handle in the plastic stamped label, on it: Rowenta logo, model name PH.080, power requirements. 230V

50Hz, power 1000W. Date 23 97. Then the icon. double electrical protection and again a warning icon. Do not put it in the water!

Disassembling. It is not difficult and at the same time painful: on the handle you unscrew one screw, the rest is held on the latches. And those latches tend to break, which I did. but okay, I’m taking it apart one way.

Inside we see the following picture: seven-blade fan, switch, electric cord is firmly fixed by the bar.

Pull it all out. The heating element is covered with a thin plate of mica rolled up in a tube.

In general, the scheme and principle is the same for all. heating element. the nichrome coil is divided into sectors, this achieves a more or less intense heating, part of the coil serves as a resistance, which lowers the voltage to power the electric motor. The hair dryer has a thermostat, which prevents dangerous overheating of the device. There is a thread on the inside of the spiral, probably made of some heat-resistant material. You probably need it for normal spiral styling so it doesn’t stretch or shrink.

The electric motor is marked 34900 870568. is a collector electric motor with DC power supply, two diodes serve as rectifiers.

Well, that’s it in a nutshell. Фен для волос Rowenta Hairstyle PH.080 was not badly made, worked reliably for many years. In contrast to the modern mass-produced items that burn out, barely finish the warranty period.

Main breakdowns and their causes

Breakdown of such a tool can occur at any time of its operation. Especially unpleasant if it happens in the midst of construction work. In most cases this is the fault of the man himself, who is often negligent with the power tool. The main breakages are kinked power cord, defective tool button and temperature control. Of course, there can also be more complex malfunctions.

For example, the motor or fan can fail. In this respect, the heating element is not eternal. Most malfunctions can be diagnosed on their own, but there are those that have to be identified for quite a long time. In this situation, it is best to contact a specialized service center.

If a person is confident in his abilities, he can carry out the repair of the hair dryer and on his own.

To the most complex breakdowns can include breakage of the motor or fan. In most cases they are subject to replacement, in addition, it is difficult to find the right spare parts.

The other day my irresistible, unique and innermost Spouse began to complain that her favorite hair dryer Remington does not work It manifested as interruptions in the normal operation, depending on the position of the power cord. That is, if you pull the cable. the hair dryer is off, if you press the hair dryer. went warm air. I immediately felt that to what and began to tear my shirt and waving my favorite soldering iron. they say let me do the disassembly and repair of hair dryers right here and right now.

In general, after a brief groaning my screwdrivers clashed with her hair dryer in an epic battle to the first soldering. I say at once. siu instruction can be used for most hair dryers firms Rowenta, Braun, Philips, Bosch and Scarlett Of course, disassemble all the hair dryers are different, but the principle of the device they have the same. Let’s go.

How to disassemble a hair dryer on the example of popular models?

The appearance of any fully any maiden forms her hairstyle. Irreplaceable help for hair styling has a regular hair dryer. Today there are many different models that have a different principle of action. In the salons use beauty professional hair dryers at home you can use a standard hair dryer, but if you’re going somewhere, it is suitable for this hair dryer small-sized.

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But what to do if the hair dryer does not work or broke at all??

How to disassemble and repair a hair dryer on examples of different models

Any hair dryer Roventa has in the construction of the basic components. Without them, it will not perform its function. The construction includes nodes and parts that help you to dry your hair at absolutely any length. And models that have the ION badge, give the best styling hair.

Although each model has its own switches, the external appearance, nevertheless they operate in the same way. According to experts, the most difficult part of the device is a thyristor, therefore, you can make repairs on your own without any problems.

Disassembly algorithm

Repair should begin with a simple inspection of the device, that is, conducting diagnostics. Algorithm:

  • It all starts with the socket. Check to see if the contacts are burned out or loose. If you notice any malfunctions, it is necessary to clean or tighten. Check that the plug enters the contacts with some effort.
  • Next comes the power wire. The diagnosis should be made in the place where it enters the handle of the device. Here you can find the contact block. From there to the plug itself, you should inspect for insulation damage or fractures.
  • Most often, the disassembly of this device begins with the disassembly of the housing. The body structure is made of two halves, connected with screws, and in front at the nozzle with specially designed latches. Disassembly must be done carefully, because these latches can be broken. There are also screws that are hidden with stickers, plastic inserts and removable covers.

Important! Almost all models of Roventa have the same appearance, their disassembly is carried out in the same way as a standard hair dryer. However, the hair dryer is dismantled in a slightly different way because of some peculiarities of construction.

So be sure to read the instructions before disassembling.

  • Fan. Before this element there is a protective grid and filter, which are obstacles to hair ingress into the hair dryer. Very often this protective grid can get clogged with hair, so it needs to be cleaned. Clean with a small brush.
  • Electric motor. If this element does not work properly, then the whole unit will malfunction. Cause of incorrect functioning of the motor may be a breakdown of the winding or burnout of a diode bridge. After dismantling it is necessary to lubricate the rubbing components of the electric motor. It is also important to tighten the problem areas, this can be done manually.
  • Spiral. Almost all models have several spirals, which help carry out the various heating modes of air. They can be repaired by soldering. Defects can be seen at once without any problem. In some cases it is possible to replace the spiral components made of nichrome thread. They also have similar characteristics.
  • Microcircuits. There are types of failure. For example, the base, made of gethinax, can crack. In this case, there is a break in the tin track. The areas that are damaged can be tinned, and then it is necessary to perform a coating using solder. Another problem. bloated capacitors. You just need to carry out the installation of new condensers. There is also the possibility of faulty resistors. They become dark. It is important to simply carry out their replacement.

Warning! To repair a hair dryer it is important to know how to use a soldering iron. If you do not have such skills, it is better to turn to specialists, who will repair the hair dryer without problems. If you still decide to repair the hair dryer with your own hands, read our article.

Repair of devices from Rowenta, Philips, Ionic, Remington, Dewal and others has its own difficulties, especially for those who are not educated in this. As they have smooth-acting regulators, the spirals are made of specially designed alloys. If you need to connect them, you are unlikely to be able to do it reliably.

Before you disassemble this device you should find the wiring diagram of the device. If you can’t find the manual, you can consult a specialist. Remember a simple truth. to disassemble any device is not difficult, much harder to reassemble everything.

How to disassemble the hair dryer brush rovrenta

The appearance of absolutely any girl forms her hairstyle. Irreplaceable help for hair styling has an ordinary hair dryer. Today there are many different models that have different principles of operation. In beauty salons use professional hair dryers, at home you can use a standard hair dryer, and if you are going somewhere, it is suitable for this hair dryer of compact size.

But what to do if the hair dryer does not turn on or broke at all??

How to repair a hair dryer with your own hands?

It is difficult to find a girl or woman who would not use a hair dryer for drying hair, especially in the cold season. And it is understandable, because in order for long hair to dry well at room temperature, you need a few hours, and with today’s pace of life is a luxury.

Therefore, these devices were, are and will always be in demand. And this is proved by the statistics on the sales of hair dryers as a gift for women on different occasions. It is these devices are one of the leading places, as a necessary thing and inexpensive.But no matter how good the product was. high temperature, high current consumption, and, as a rule, improper operation, often lead to the breakage of household hair dryers.

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And before you buy a new device, you can try to bring back to “life” an old friend. The more so that the breakage can be minor and easily solved.

Below, there will be a detailed description of one of the frequent breakdowns of hair dryers and how to fix it (on the example of a Startex hair dryer).

Of the tools you will need only those that are available in almost every home. The only thing you might not have is a multimeter or some other instrument that shows the circuit. But for sure, a friend or a neighbor has one, and you can ask for it while repairs are being made. If, however, does not turn out to be a good neighbor or electrician friend, you can buy the cheapest multimeter, the more so, they are now on the market enough. In the future it will certainly come in handy, for example, to check the light bulb, battery or mains voltage.

In the photo (picture 1) a hair dryer that has a problem in the work.

It lies in the fact that when you turn on the maximum power, it does not react in any way.

The hair dryer itself has three switch positions:

Most often the top position and use a hair dryer, because it gives the fastest drying. So ignore such a breakdown is unacceptable.

So, to find the cause of the malfunction, you need to disassemble the appliance. We should start with the knob.

There is a position switch and two fixing screws for a Phillips screwdriver on it.

We put the hair dryer on its side and unscrew the two screws.

Then with some effort we remove one of the side parts of the handle.

After removing the cap you can see the inside of it.

Here are located: the switch, the diode, the capacitor, the zero (common) clamp and the clamp for fixing the cord.

The neutral terminal is located inside the dielectric cap (Figure 7).

There is the blue wire from the power cord, the black wire that goes further to the heater, and one lead of the capacitor.

The position switch has three pins. One common, to which the brown phase wire from the power cord comes.On the other side, a diode is soldered onto the pins.

If you look at the circuit diagram (picture 8) you will see that in one of the switch positions the current comes to the heater through the diode. This reduces the heating power and corresponds to the middle position of the switch.

When the second contact or both contacts are closed, current flows to the heater coil bypassing the diode, which corresponds to the maximum power. third position.

The capacitor serves to damp the noise given out by the motor to the mains. This capacitor can be removed altogether. Then there is more space in the handle and it won’t explode when the mains voltage goes up.

When inspecting these components, attention should be paid to their external condition. There must be no damage, no carbon deposits, no broken conductors, and no deformation of the body caused by temperature conditions.

If all the wires are in place, you need to pay attention to the switch. This is the weakest link in the circuit, as it has a mechanical movement of the contacts and when they open, an electric arc forms a fouling on their surface.

You can check the continuity of the diode, but in this case it is not necessary to do it, since at half power, the hair dryer works, which means that the diode is intact.

Check the current flow through the switch.

To do this, connect one end of the circuit checker to the common terminal and the other end to the terminals on the opposite side.But it has to be done in a certain position of the switch.

First, connect the device where only the diode is soldered, and put the switch lever in the middle position.

The indicator shows the circuit. So, the contacts inside the body are closed and that’s good.

Next, move the probe to the second terminal, where in addition to the diode soldered wire.

The switch should be placed in the uppermost position (Fig. 12).

Fig. 12. switch in the highest position Fig. 13. Checking the second lead

The device does not show a circuit, it means that something has happened to the contacts. The switch turned out to be dismountable. The upper and lower parts are fastened with two screws.

They must be carefully unscrewed. Here you can use a screwdriver, not necessarily a Phillips screwdriver. Suitable is an ordinary straight screwdriver with a fine tip, for example, a clock screw.

The screws are quite tight, so it will take some effort. You must be extremely careful, the screwdriver is thin and can cause deep injury when it slips off. Therefore, it is better not to put your fingers under the lever.You can remove the entire contents by unscrewing the cable clamp for convenience.

Now it is possible to put the lower part of the body against the table and press the screwdriver on the screw (picture 14).

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Small screws can be removed quite easily with this method. When both screws are out, carefully remove the top cover of the switch with two fingers.

There is a handle of the switch underneath, on the reverse side of which a special relief is cut out, thanks to which the contacts are pressed or lifted at a certain position of the lever of the switch.

In the center of the handle there is a hole for the spring, which together with the metal ball (Figure 16) enables the step change of modes. When disassembling it is necessary to ensure that the spring and the ball are not lost. It is better to put them at once, for example, in a matchbox.

Next, let’s move on to examining the contacts (Figure 17).

The fixed ones are at the top and the movable ones have a springy structure whereby the contacts are closed if nothing is acting on them. When switching modes, the “cams” of the lever press on these contacts, and they, under their influence, go down and open.

If you look from the side at the contacts (Fig. 18), you can see that the closest one, has not returned to its original position to close the circuit.

Just this contact, is responsible for turning on the maximum power of heating, which did not work.

Below in the photo, you can see how the contacts work. When you press the far contact, it sags.

If you release it, it comes back and closes the circuit.

Rice. 20. The contact came back

Do the same with the other contact.

It is pressed down, but doesn’t go back (Fig.22).

Fig. 22. The contact has not come back

Most likely, the flexible contact conductor is rubbing against the side inner wall of the switch body and is blocking in the lower position. This is the reason of incorrect operation of the device in one of the modes.

To get the switch back to normal operation, the following sequence of steps must be followed:

  • Gently squeeze the contact block with duckbills or small pliers. It will give the contact a freer stroke in the groove of the switch body. Fig. 23. Squeeze the contact block
  • In addition you have to file the edges of the flexible conductors. To do this, the contact plate itself can be removed. It is more convenient to work them in this way. Fig. 24. File the edges of the wires
  • Also, use a file to clean the contacts from carbon deposits. Picture. 25. Getting rid of carbon deposits
  • Putting the contact pad back in place. Fig. 26. Putting the pad in place
  • For better sliding, grease inside walls of the housing with lithol. Figure. 27. Lithol on the tip of the pick Fig. 28. Lubricate with lithol

Now you can check how the contact stroke has improved. Press with your finger on the contact and release it.

You can see that the contact is now working properly, and nothing interferes with its course.

Next, it is necessary to insert the spring into the hole in the lever handle.

The metal ball, it is better to put it in one of the grooves on the case (picture 31). This way it will not come off the spring when the switch handle is installed.

It is important, what side to put the handle of the switch, because this determines the correctness of its work.

When the correct side is determined, turn the lever so that the center of the spring hits the ball and not the side.

Holding the handle, put the upper part of the switch body on it.

Without letting go of the lid, we screw the two fixing screws Now the switch is ready, and without assembling the hair dryer, we can test its work in different modes.

Since live parts are open, you must switch modes with the power plug unplugged. And only after making the switch, apply the power.

If it works, you can assemble the unit. But if you want, you can do a revision of the working part of the hair dryer and the contacts of the temperature sensor.

For this you need to remove one more screw and remove the back grill.

Next, use a knife to separate the two parts of the body.

Pull out the motor with the heater by pulling apart the two halves with your fingers. There may be debris and hair that needs to be removed.

Find the pins of the temperature sensor and grind them with a file.

After, we insert the heater back, making sure that the gasket of heat-resistant material remains in its place.

Slide the rear lattice and fasten the screw.

Next, insert the switch into the special grooves, making sure that the square of the control knob sits exactly on the “flag” of the switch. We put the wires in the lower part of the handle, and put on the other half.

Clamp the screws and check the appliance.

Фен ROWENTA CV8655. Разборка и ремонт.

At this point the repair of the hair dryer can be considered complete.

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