How to disassemble a hair dryer rowenta pro 2300

Table of Contents

How a construction dryer works and how it is designed

If a construction hair dryer broke, then in order to repair it yourself, you need to know not only the design, but also the principle of operation of the tool. Understanding what each element of the device is needed for, you can perform a check of its serviceability, and eliminate the breakdowns. At once it should be noted that industrial hair dryers can be conditionally divided into two types:

  • Budgetary, which have the simplest design. A distinctive feature of such tools is that they have a low cost, and they do not have an electronic control board
  • Expensive. the design of such devices uses electronic boards, as well as semiconductor elements responsible for supplying voltage to the coil and motor, as well as microcontrollers that analyze the data. There are also models equipped with displays and controls, through which you can more accurately set the blowing temperature

The electrical circuit of the simplest construction hairdryer, which has two speeds of the motor shaft, is shown below.

The principle of the construction hair dryer has the following format:

If the coil breaks, the hair dryer motor will not turn on, but if the motor fails, all the voltage is applied to the heating element, which causes the nichrome filament to burn out. Most devices use protective elements to prevent overheating of the coil.

The more switches in the construction of the appliance, the more likely it is that one of them can fail. Often the reason for the failure of construction dryers is their improper use, which leads to burnout of the heating element coil. First of all, it is necessary to remember the three main rules when operating the device in question:

The simplest scheme of work of the hair dryer is presented in the photo below. On the principle of this circuit works not only budget models of construction hair dryers, but also household.

Now let’s consider in detail the repair of a construction hair dryer with their own hands. And for this does not need to know the basics of electrical engineering and electronics, to find and fix the problem.

How to disassemble a hair dryer rowenta pro 2300

This electric device. hair dryer. is very popular and often indispensable in everyday life. Due to the high consumer demand, the construction of most hair dryers have become very similar, and the quality of manufacturing and price has fallen. To date, to buy a really durable hair dryer is not easy. The practice of repair of various brands of hair dryers says that the occurring breakdowns are similar and, as a rule, not fatal, and can be easily eliminated without serious monetary expenses.

Any electric hair dryer in its design contains two main, major elements: a fan and a heater. The fan blows air through the heater (heating element), sucking it in behind the hair dryer and expelling heated air from the front.

Hair dryer device for drying hair. 1. propeller; 2. electric motor; 3. heater; 4. thermostat; 5. mode switch; 6. power cord.

The domestic hair dryers fan is built on the basis of low-voltage (12-18 V) collector DC motors. This motor cannot be powered directly from a 220 VAC mains supply. To achieve the necessary voltage drop, a separate coil (let’s call it a step-down coil) is used inside the heating element. To rectify the voltage a half-period rectifier (diode bridge) mounted by a hinged assembly on the electric motor terminals is used. A plastic propeller, consisting of three or more blades, is seated on the metal shaft of the motor.

the heating element of the hair dryer is a frame of non-flammable material with several windings of nichrome wire (spirals). Depending on the number of hair dryer modes, there can be two or three windings, one of which is a step-down winding.

Heating element with two windings.

The hot coils of the heating element must be blown out with cool air at all times, especially when operating at maximum power. If for any reason the air supply is insufficient or has stopped altogether (e.g. motor failure), for fire safety reasons and to prevent the heating element from burning out, the hair dryer must automatically shut off. This safety shutdown is made possible by the presence of two temperature-sensitive elements in the hair dryer. Two protection circuits inside the heater.

First boundary. thermostat. It is a pair of closed contacts attached to a bimetallic plate. Being close to the outlet of the heated air, the contacts are intensively blown by it. When the outlet air reaches a critical temperature, contacts move away from each other, the power circuit opens hair dryer. After a few minutes, when the bimetal plate has cooled down, the contacts close again and the hair dryer turns on.

Thermostats based on bimetallic plates.

If the above protection is not triggered at the right time for any reason, the second line of thermal fuse is activated a few seconds later. This fuse is only useable and must be replaced when triggered.

Fuse thermal fuse.

Rowenta CV 4030 hair dryer device.

To see the inner workings of a household hair dryer, let’s take apart its typical representative Rowenta CV 4030. This model is equipped with a fan based on a low-voltage motor, the heating element consists of one reducing spiral and two heating. The hair dryer has three working modes, in the first mode the fan speed is lower than in the other two. The schematic diagram of this hair dryer is shown below.

In the first position of the switch SW1 the mains power through the plug XP1, filter C1R1, protection elements F1, F2, diode VD5 (required for cutting off one half-wave of alternating voltage) goes to the step-down coil H1, through which the electric motor M1 is fed. Diodes VD1-VD4 are necessary for rectification of AC voltage reduced by coil H1. Inductance coils L1, L2 and capacitors C2, C3 are used to reduce noise that occurs during operation of the brush motor. Through the diode VD5 the heating coil H2 is also powered.

When switching switch SW2 to position 2, the diode VD5 is shortcircuited. Motor starts to run at maximum speed, the coil H2 gets hotter. The third position of the switch slider SW2 corresponds to the maximum power consumption mode, when the H2 coil is connected in parallel to the H3 coil. In this position the output air temperature is the highest. Button cool is included in the gap of both heating spirals, when you press it only the motor through the spiral H1 remains on, spirals H2 and H3 are de-energized.

The process of opening the Rowenta cv4030 hair dryer.

Hair dryer without housing. Bottom up: switch SW1, capacitor C1 with soldered resistor R1, button SB1, heating element, motor with propeller (in the black cover).

Diode VD5 (photo left) and the inductor coils (photo right) Rowenta CV 4030 hair dryer is mounted inside the heating element.

Thermostat (photo left). The fuse (picture on the right)

How to Disassemble a Rowenta Hair Dryer

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How to disassemble and repair the hair dryer on the example of various models

Any Roventa hair dryer has the basic components. Without them, it will not perform its functions. The design includes nodes and parts that help to perform drying of hair of absolutely any length. And models which have a mark ION, give a possibility to conduct the best hair styling.

Although each model has different switches, the exterior appearance, nevertheless they act the same regardless. According to experts, the most difficult part of the device is a thyristor, therefore, you can make repairs yourself without any problems.

Disassembly algorithm

disassemble, hair, dryer, rowenta, 2300

Repair should begin with a simple inspection of the device, that is, a diagnosis. Algorithm:

  • It all starts with the socket. Look: Is there any burning of the contacts or are they loose. If you notice any faults, it is necessary to clean or tighten. Make sure that the plug enters the contacts with some effort.
  • Next comes the power wire. Diagnosis should be made in the place where it enters the handle of the unit. Here you can find the contact block. From there to the plug should be inspected for insulation damage or fractures.
  • Most often, the disassembly of this device begins with the disassembly of the housing. The housing is made of two halves that are joined together with screws and specially designed latches at the front of the nozzle. Disassembly should be carried out carefully, because these latches can break. There are also screws that are hidden by stickers, plastic inserts and removable covers.

Important! Almost all Roventa models have the same appearance, their disassembly is carried out in the same way as a standard hair dryer. However, the hair dryer is disassembled in a slightly different way because of some design peculiarities.

So be sure to read the manual before disassembling.

  • Fan. In front of this element there is a protective grid and a filter, which are barriers to the hair inside the hair dryer. Very often this protective grid can become clogged with hair, so it needs to be cleaned. Cleaning is done with a small brush.
  • Electric motor. If this element does not work properly, then the whole device will malfunction. Causes of incorrect operation of the electric motor can be: a breakdown of the winding or a diode bridge burnout. After disassembly it is necessary to lubricate the rubbing parts of the electric motor. It is also important to carry out a tightening of problem areas, it can be done manually.
  • Spiral. Almost all models have several spirals, which help to carry out the various heating modes of air. They can be repaired by soldering. Defects can be seen at once without any problem. In some cases, it is possible to replace the spirals with components made of nichrome filament. They also have similar characteristics.
  • Microcircuits. There are types of failure. For example, the base, made of gethinax, can crack. The tin track is torn. Areas that are damaged can be tinned, and then it is necessary to perform a coating using solder. Another problem is the bloating of the capacitors. You just need to install new capacitors. There is also the possibility of faulty resistors. They are getting dark. It’s important to just replace them.

Attention! To repair a hair dryer, it is important to know how to use a soldering iron. If you do not have such skills, it is better to turn to professionals who have no problem repairing your hair dryer. If you still decided to repair your hair dryer with your own hands, read our article.

Repair of devices from Rowenta, Philips, Ionic, Remington, Dewal and others has its own difficulties, especially for those who are not educated in this. As they have regulators of smooth action, the spirals are made of specially designed alloys. If they need to be connected, you are unlikely to be able to do it reliably.

Before you disassemble this apparatus it is necessary to find the electrical diagram of the device. If you can not find the manual, you can consult with a specialist. Remember a simple truth. to disassemble any device is not difficult, much harder to reassemble everything.

Sometimes after a bad fall or other mechanical effect this device stops working. A wonderful way out of this difficult situation will be a complete disassembly of the hair dryer. You want to know how to disassemble a hair dryer? There is nothing complicated about it, the main thing is to follow the steps of the instruction.

The first step is to disassemble the case. In most models (for example, the rowenta pro 2300 and braun 3536) it opens into two identical halves. To comply with safety rules before unscrewing screws, it is necessary to remove the electrical cord from the socket.

Usually the body of the device is held on simple metal screws. They can be with non-standard heads in the form of a plus, fork or star. Therefore, before you disassemble the hair dryer Philips will need to take care of the availability of the necessary tools.

After opening the device, you will find the internal mechanisms of the device, which are responsible for its smooth functioning. If the hair dryer is broken, the cause of the breakage will be hidden in these parts. In addition, some models have additional fasteners in the form of latches and hidden screws, hidden under the decorative overlays.

You want to know how to disassemble a hair dryer Philips salondry control? For this purpose it is necessary to get acquainted with its internal structure and carefully examine all parts. The most common breakdown of many devices is a damaged power cord. If there are any burnt or fractured parts you will need to re-solder it.

The main internal element of any hair dryer is the fan. It is driven by an electric motor and draws in air through a special opening with a grill. In some cases, the breakdown of the device is due to its contamination, so if there is dust, it should be thoroughly cleaned.

The air passes through the heating element. a wire wrapped around the thermostat. It should be made in one piece. If there are rips, the spiral parts should be twisted or soldered. Some models (for example, babyliss pro) are even equipped with a limiter, which does not allow the device to suck in with the air long hair and other lint. It can also be clogged if the device is not working properly.

If you can hear a crackling sound and see sparks when you plug in the unit, it indicates that the motor is broken. This problem can be solved by replacing the copper windings and the diode bridge. However, it is difficult to perform such a repair at home, so in this case you should go to a workshop.

You want to know how to disassemble the hair dryer rowenta brush activ 1000? The design of this device has several nuances compared to an ordinary hair dryer. In order to inspect the internal elements and mechanisms in case of breakage you need to perform a few simple steps:

  • Remove the plastic nozzle from the front of the device, as it will later interfere with disassembly. To do this you should gently move it from right to left until it is completely detached from the device;
  • It is not recommended to use screwdrivers and other tools when removing the plastic ring, because they can damage the housing and leave visible scratches on it;
  • After it is necessary to remove the rear nozzle-grid, which prevents the disassembly of the device. At the same time you should not apply too much effort, because it can lead to its failure;
  • Modern models of many brands of hair dryers (roventa, remington, Scarlett and others) have no metal bolts on the body. The fastening of the two parts of the hair dryer is made with the help of latches. To separate them, the two halves of the body should be pulled away from each other, simultaneously rotating.
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So you do not have to repair appliances yourself need to buy a good hair dryer. Which one to choose from the variety on the market?? Before buying, you should pay attention to the reputation of the brand, because only well-known manufacturers are engaged in producing quality products. Other criteria for selection are the power, the number of modes, the function of cold air.

We have told you about the main features of the internal structure of the hair dryer, so you should not have any questions about how to disassemble the roventa brash active hair dryer and other brands. However, remember that when repairing small appliances yourself, it is necessary to observe safety rules and be sure to remove the power cord from the socket.

How to repair a hair dryer with your own hands?

It is difficult to find a girl or woman who would not use a hair dryer for drying her hair, especially in the cold season. And this is understandable, since in order for long hair to dry well at room temperature, it takes several hours, and with today’s pace of life. this is a luxury.

Therefore, these devices have been, are and will always be in demand. And this is proved by statistics on the sale of hair dryers as a gift to women on different occasions. It is these devices are one of the leading places, as the thing is necessary and inexpensive.But no matter how good the quality of the product. high temperature, high current consumption, and, as a rule, improper operation, often lead to the breakdowns of household hair dryers.

And before you buy a new device, you can try to bring back to “life” an old friend. The more so that the breakage may be minor and easily correctable.

Below will be described in detail one of the frequent failures of hair dryers and how to fix it (using Startex hair dryer as an example).

Of the tools you will need only those that are available in almost every home. The only thing you may not have is a multimeter or some other device that shows the circuit. But for sure, a friend or neighbor has it, and you can ask him for it while repairs. If after all there is no kind neighbor or electrician friend nearby, you can buy the cheapest multimeter, the more so that there are enough of them on the market now. In the future it will be useful, for example, to check the light bulb, battery or line voltage.

In the photo (picture 1), a hair dryer that has a problem.

It lies in the fact that when you turn on the maximum power, it does not respond in any way.

The hair dryer itself has three switch positions:

Most often the top position is the position in which the hair dryer is used, because it gives the fastest drying. Therefore, it is unacceptable to ignore such a failure.

So, to find the cause of the fault, it is necessary to disassemble the device. You start with the handle.

There is a position switch and two Phillips screwdriver fixing screws on it.

Put the hair dryer on its side and unscrew these two screws.

Then, with some effort, remove one of the side parts of the handle.

After removing the cover you can see the guts.

Here are located: the switch, diode, capacitor, zero (common) clamp and the clamp for fixing the cord.

The zero clamp is located inside the dielectric cover (Figure 7).

It connects: the wire from the power cord. blue, the black wire that goes further to the heater, and one lead of the capacitor.

The position selector has three terminals. One common, which is fed by the brown phase wire from the power cord.On the other side, a diode is soldered to the leads.

If you look at the circuit diagram (Fig. 8), you can see that in one of the switch positions, the current flows to the heater through the diode. This reduces the heating power and corresponds to the middle position of the switch.

When the second, or both, contacts are closed, current flows to the heater coil bypassing the diode, which corresponds to the maximum power. third position.

The capacitor serves to damp the noise emitted by the motor into the network. This capacitor can be removed altogether. Then there will be more space in the handle, and it will not explode when the mains voltage rises.

When inspecting these components, pay attention to their external condition. There should be no damage, sooting, broken conductors, or deformation of the body from the temperature conditions.

If all the wires are in place, you should pay attention to the switch. This is the weakest link in the circuit, because there is a mechanical movement of the contacts and when they open, the arc forms a fouling on their surface.

You can check the integrity of the diode, but in this case there is no need to do it, since at half power, the hair dryer works, which means the diode is intact.

It is necessary to check the current flow through the switch.

To do this, connect one end of the circuit checker to the common terminal and the other end to the terminals on the opposite side.But it is necessary to do it at a certain position of the switch.

First, connect the device where only the diode is soldered, and put the lever of the switch in the middle position.

The indicator shows the circuit. So, the contacts inside the case are closed and that’s good.

Then, move the probe to the second terminal, where in addition to the diode soldered wire.

The switch should be put in the uppermost position (picture 12).

Fig. 12. The switch in the topmost position Reece. 13. Checking the second lead

The device does not show a circuit, it means that something has happened to the contacts. The switch is dismountable. The upper and lower parts of it, fasten the two screws.

They should be unscrewed carefully. A screwdriver is helpful here, not necessarily a Phillips screwdriver. An ordinary straight-edge screw with a fine tip will do, such as a watch knife.

The screws are screwed in quite tightly, so you will have to use some effort. You have to be extremely careful, the screwdriver is thin and can cause deep injury if it slips. Therefore it is better not to put your fingers under the switch.For convenience, you can remove all the stuffing by unscrewing the cable clamp.

Now, it is possible to put the lower part of the case against the table and press the screwdriver on the screw (Fig. 14).

It is fairly easy to remove the small screws with this method. Once both screws are removed, carefully remove the top cover of the switch with two fingers.

Under it there is a handle of the switch, from the back side of which a special relief is cut out, thanks to it the contacts are pressed or lifted at a certain position of the lever of the switch.

In the center of the handle is a hole for the spring, which, together with the metal ball (Figure 16), provides a stepped switching of modes. When dismantling, you must be careful that the spring and the ball are not lost. It is best to put them in a matchbox, for example.

Next, let’s go to the inspection of the contacts (picture 17).

Fixed ones are at the top, and the mobile ones have a springy structure thanks to which the contacts are closed if nothing is acting on them. When switching modes, the “cams” of the lever push down on these contacts, and they, under their influence, go down and open.

If you look from the side at the contacts (Fig. 18), you can see that the closest one has not returned to its original position for closing the circuit.

Just this contact, is responsible for turning on the maximum heating power, which did not work.

In the photo below, you can see how the contacts work. When the far contact is pressed, it deflects.

If you release it, it goes back and closes the circuit.

Figure. 20. The contact is back

Do the same with the other contact.

It goes down, it is pressed, but it doesn’t go back up (Fig. 22).

Fig. 22. The contact has not come back

Most likely, the flexible wire with the contact, is rubbing against the side inner wall of the switch body and is blocked in the lower position. This is the reason of incorrect operation of the device in one of the modes.

To restore normal operation of the switch, the following sequence of steps must be followed:

  • Gently squeeze the contact block “duckbill” or small pliers. This will give the contact a freer stroke in the groove of the switch body. Figure. 23. Squeeze contact block
  • Additionally, the edges of the flexible conductors need to be trimmed with a file. To do this, the contact block itself can be removed. This will make it easier to handle them. Picture. 24. Use a file to clean the edge of the wires
  • Clean the contacts from carbon deposits with a file. Fig. 25. Get rid of carbon deposits
  • Putting the contact pad back in place. Fig. 26. Put the pad in place
  • For better sliding, lubricate the inner walls of the housing with lithol. Figure. 27. The lithol on the tip of the cutter Fig. 28. Lubricate with lithol

Now you can check how the contact stroke has improved. Press the contact with your finger and release it.

You can see that the contact now works fine, and there is nothing to hinder its movement.

Next, it is necessary to insert the spring into the hole of the switch handle.

A metal ball, preferably inserted into one of the grooves on the case (Figure 31). This way it will not come off the spring when the derailleur handle is installed.

It is important which side to put the switch handle, because this determines the correctness of its work.

When the correct side is determined, turn the lever so that the center of the spring hits the ball and not the side.

Holding the handle, put the top of the switch body on it.

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Without letting go of the cover we tighten the two fixing screws Now the switch is ready and without assembling the hair dryer you can check its operation in different modes.

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As current-carrying parts are open, it is necessary to switch modes at unplugged power plug. And only after you have made the switch, it is time to turn on the power.

If everything works, you can reassemble the device. But if you want, you may revise the working part of the hair dryer and the contacts of the temperature sensor.

To do this you need to unscrew another screw, and remove the rear grill.

Next, use a knife to separate the two parts of the housing.

Pull out the motor with the heater by pulling the two halves apart with our fingers. There may be debris and hair on them, which should be removed.

Locate the temperature sensor pins and file them down.

After that, put the heater back in, making sure that the gasket of heat-resistant material remains in its place.

Click the back grill in place and tighten the screw.

Next, slide the switch into the special slots, making sure that the square of the control knob sits exactly on the “flag” of the switch. Lay the wires in the bottom of the handle and put on the other half of it.

Clamp the screws and check the operation of the device.

At this point the repair of the hair dryer can be considered over.

How to Disassemble a Hair Dryer: Inspection, Disassembly and Repair Procedures

Disassembly of the device is not difficult if you act in accordance with the instructions, have the right tools at hand and have at least some knowledge of electronics.

The first thing to inspect is the wire. You should start with the socket, to make sure there is electricity. If there is light, then proceed to check the cord. from the body to the plug. Inspect the integrity of the wire, look for breaks, rips, melting. Inside the case, after disassembling it, observe the condition of the electrical resistance. a pair of socket contacts, solder or wire with plastic caps.

Inseparable connection

If the wire is terminated in plastic caps, then we are talking about a permanent connection. This option is quite difficult to test and requires materials:

The test is performed as follows:

  • Attach a needle to one terminal. it should be inserted into the power core near the cap all the way to the copper;
  • The second terminal covers the tendrils of the plug;
  • Test both wires at once.

You should not make more than one piercing per core, because the operation of the device does not exclude the ingress of moisture inside the case.

Contact site

It is much easier to wire when the joints are visible to the naked eye. If damage is found, it is better to replace the cord with a new one that has a non-disassembled plug. The second option is preferable, because in the first case there are restrictions on the choice of insulating materials that prevent moisture from getting on the cores. Warning!

The most vulnerable place is at the contact of the wire with the housing. Constant kinking, twisting of the cord leads to fraying, cracking. Damaged copper wires start sparking, burning the tape and melting.

Switch and Switching

Check the functionality of the switch can be checked by short-circuiting the part. If using a threeposition switch, the appropriate test should be performed three times, for each mode separately. It is best to draw a diagram of the wiring arrangement to avoid mistakes during assembly. After determining the defect it should be carefully inspected and repaired. It is necessary to clean off the traces of carbon deposits with an abrasive file, eraser or sandpaper, and treat the contacts with alcohol. If any element can not be repaired, it must be replaced by a new one of the same kind.

The fan

Clogged ductwork is a common problem with appliances. If there is a filter, it must be removed and thoroughly cleaned, clogged dust can be removed with a soft brush. If you find hair wrapped around the motor axis, it is better to remove the fan from the shaft, and then remove the dirt.

Spirals

Most often these devices are equipped with several heaters, which do not differ from each other in appearance. After disassembling the unit should make sure that the heating elements are identical, if there are gaps they need to be soldered or screwed ends. In addition, the ends of the coil can be connected using thin copper tubes.

Motor

A broken motor is indicated by the appearance of a strong crackle and the presence of sparks when turning on. If any malfunction is found, solder the motor winding from the wiring diagram and check all connections. Replacing the winding requires certain skills and knowledge in the field of electricity, so if you do not have them, it is better to immediately contact professionals. Useful at!

If the winding is serviceable, it is sufficient to clean the surface and assess the tightness of the brushes to the copper surface. The shaft must rotate freely, and it is better to lubricate all the rubbing elements.

Microcircuit:

  • The gethinax substrate periodically cracks, which leads to a tear in the track. If a damaged fragment is found, it should be buried with some solder;
  • The defective capacitor is evidenced by the bloating of the product, if broken it bends outward. If the breakage is detected, the only way out will be to replace the part with a new one;
  • Resistor becomes darker as it burns out. Even if it is not defective, it is worth replacing.

Thermostat

Some models are equipped with a self-regulating function. It functions by using a resistive divider in which one arm is responsible for responding to temperature. Further action can be taken as follows:

There is a high probability that the attempt will fail if the device responds only to certain resistance values.

How to Disassemble Properly

Dismantling the body of the hair dryer is often difficult, because its parts are fastened with internal latches, and to find their location from the outside is difficult. On any kind of device there is always a self-tapping screw on the handle in the area where the power cord enters the housing. As a rule, the self-tapping screw is covered with a decorative cover or a sticker. Proceeding to the disassembly of the case, you need to perform the following steps one by one:

  • Remove the plastic cover or remove the label and unscrew the self-tapping screw.
  • Slightly disconnect the parts of the housing and find the location of the internal latches. In most cases, the fasteners are located at the bottom of the handle and in the nozzle area.
  • Squeeze the catches through the gap formed, using a flat screwdriver. After releasing the side latches the upper ones can be set free on their own.
  • Having disassembled the case, carry out diagnostics to determine the existing malfunctions.

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