Proper installation of the fan in the bathroom
The ventilation problem in the bathroom and toilet quite often appears in apartment buildings. Natural ventilation channels in such buildings are often damaged, as a result of which they cannot perform their functions. In addition to this problem, in the buildings of the old building when laying the ventilation ducts laying the air exchange, taking into account wooden windows, but not plastic, non.pass and a gram of air outside. Therefore, in order to improve ventilation in the apartment and in the bathroom, in particular, the fan is installed in the bathroom.
Before installing the fan in the bathroom, it is necessary to determine how well the natural hood works. This is done in a simple way: take a sheet of thin paper or expand the napkin; Open the window in any room; attach the paper to the hole of the hood. If the napkin immediately pulled to the hole, this means that the natural hood works correctly. If the napkin is not attracted, then you should think about installing the fan in the bathroom.
You can check the efficiency of the hood if you bring a lit match or lighter to the hole. If the flame is strongly deviated towards the canal, then the ventilation works fine. Otherwise, with a weak flame deviation or if it burns evenly, a exhaust cooler will be required.
Nastya and the most important safety rules for children
Stagging air in the bathroom or toilet leads to the formation of high humidity in the room and, as a result, to the appearance of the fungus on the walls. How harmful to human health is a mold fungus, you should not speak at all.
If you are convinced that the ventilation duct is clogged, then it can be cleaned by lowering the conical shape into it. If for any reason you cannot do this, contact the utility service, they will tell you which organization you need to submit an application.
The choice of exhaust cooler
Before the installation of the fan in the bathroom, it is necessary to make measurements of the width, height and depth of the outlet and write down the data obtained. Based on this information, you should choose fans in the store.
Calculation of cooler power is very important before buying an extract. According to sanitary standards, the air in the bathroom should change 6-8 times within 1 hour, and the fans should cope with such a task. The power calculation is made according to the following formula: l = v K, where l is the volume of air for complete air exchange (m 3 /h), V is the volume of the room, and k is the air exchange coefficient (how many times the air should be changed in 1 hour).
Example of calculation: room length. 2.5 m, width. 3.2 m, height 2.8 m. We find out the volume of the room: V = 2.5 3.2 2.8 = 22.4 m 3. Next, set the result in the formula: l = 22.4 8 = 179.2 m3/h. Based on the calculation, the cooler must pass 179.2 m3/h through himself in 1 hour. When choosing a device, it is recommended to dwell on the model that will be 20% higher than the calculated. That is, the unit should have a power supply. In this case, to install the fan in the toilet or bathroom with such a volume, there will be enough cooler with a capacity of 200 m3/h.
These calculations are also relevant if you have a desire to put a fan in the kitchen.
The installation of an exhaust fan in the bathroom is regulated by the norms of permissible noise. Since with increasing the power of the device, its noise inevitably increases, when choosing the unit, the standard should be followed: the sound strength from the work of the cooler should not exceed 30 dB.
Choose a bracket
So, before starting work, you need to choose a bracket for the microwave. Usually they are presented in various color solutions: black, white, silver, so you most likely easily pick up the body of your stove that is suitable for the tone of the body.
Please note that high.quality fasteners for the microwave should withstand the mass up to 70 kilograms.
As a rule, these are two Mr.-shaped holders made of steel. The kit should also be attached to rubber linings with an adhesive base, as well as plugs.
Consider your microwave dimensions when choosing a bracket. In addition, fasteners should be made exclusively for microwave ovens, and not for any other type of household appliance.
Nastya and the most important safety rules for children
The fastening of the standard microwave on the wall will require the presence of the following tools:
- The device itself.
- Special brackets for mounting on the wall.
- Fasteners (they are included).
- Scuropian set (included).
- Construction tape may also be needed, it is usually used if it is necessary to hang the device on the tile coating.
Organization of ventilation with access to the wall
The house ventilation system cannot be based on one principle. The integral approach is of important importance. Permanent air exchange can only be provided with sufficient air supply. That is why the natural methods of introducing clean air and forced ventilation in the wall are so important. In the first case, we are talking about ventilation of the house by opening windows.
The hood of natural air refers to the set of means for laying exhaust channels without using external air fans. Due to low efficiency and dependence on external weather conditions, these systems require good air supply. When equipping the house by a naturally functioning ventilation canal, it is necessary to think over its exit in each building of the building and equip these rooms with supply valves, which are installed on the wall opposite the exhaust opening.
Natural filtration ventilation is more useful for the human body, since the movement of the masses does not cause undesirable drafts. The performance of the pump is from 0.9 to 0.7 m3/h.
Compared to the natural hood, the hood with forced ventilation through the wall outside is equipped with an electric motor with a impeller, which sucks out the spent air from the living room. Depending on the area of the room or the entire building, such blocks may have different capacity. The full.fledged system is also equipped with supply fans blowing the mass outside into the interior, which work simultaneously with exhaust fans.
The air speed in the house in these conditions is from 5.5 to 3 cubic meters per hour, which looks like a light breeze. Therefore, such attitudes can cause discomfort in particularly sensitive people.
The ventilation installation can be installed in one room or throughout the house by installing multi.channel ducts.
Combined ventilation device
The ventilation circuit with mixed filters is based on the principle of laying a network of extensive air ducts for natural convection of air masses and equipping individual rooms with a supply reinforcement. In addition, in places where water vapor and moisture accumulate the most, forced ventilation on the outside in the form of supervisory devices is organized through the wall.
This system is the most effective, as it provides flexibility during cleaning. With good external traction, the use of electrical appliances can be avoided, thereby saving expenses.
Which option is better
Arguments in favor of natural and combined ventilation:
- Acceptable financial costs for installation and operation.
- Minimum electricity consumption. Exhaust fans in combined systems work with breaks and consume a total of 100-200 W/h. For heated air intakes, it will take more. about 500 watts per room.
- Natural forced ventilation can provide normative air exchange in a single or two-story building, especially in a bungalow.
- There is no need to allocate an area in the building to accommodate ventilation equipment and laying air ducts.
- Eliminates the need for maintenance of the unit, annual cleaning of filters and ducts.
Important note. The creation of a fully mechanical general ventilation system requires a thorough approach. calculations, design and qualified installation. This is impossible without designers with special training and qualified masters.
And the last nuance: if forced ventilation was not originally intended for the house, the allocation of a place for ducts will be difficult. You will need to creatively approach and place ventilation ducts under the floor or in wooden ceilings to go through the premises. In addition, part of the living space will be occupied by household appliances, as the expert talks about
Types of wall supply devices
Three types of valves are used to supply fresh air to residential premises and any other rooms:
- passive wall fans (natural influx);
- overflowing devices;
- installations of supply and exhaust air with forced air circulation with heated air by recovery of heat.
Attention! The cheapest and most primitive way of ventilation of the premises is window ventilation valves. The disadvantage of the fans is low throughput.
In addition to the above products, the so.called brisers are used in the apartments. wall household appliances with forced air heating and automatic heating to a given temperature. Freezers are full-fledged supply devices, the price of which is 3-5 times higher than that of any air supply valve.
The valves of the natural influx
The design of the wall diffuser is considered by the example of a fairly popular KIV-125 product KIV. Similar valves are produced by Vents, Domvent, Aereco companies. The design of household appliances includes the following elements:
- duct. a pipe from a PVC with a diameter of 125 mm and a length of up to 1 m, inside. a soundproof insert;
- external air intake with a rain cover and a grid from insects;
- silicone sealing ring for sealing inside the wall;
- a dual dual ditch, which regulates the amount of incoming air;
- G3-G4 air cleaner;
- mechanical drive controller;
- Additional insulation, the inner cover of the case.
The air intake is built into the outer wall, only the grille is visible outside, from the inside. a title with an adjusting handle. The principle of operation is simple: the air from the street enters the pipe, is cleaned with a filter and exits through the cracks in the collector. The specifics of the valve:
- The air flow is scattered along the wall towards the ceiling;
- Road noise is absorbed by the heat.insulating insert;
- flaps can overlap the cross section of the channel by 100%;
- adjustment is carried out using a pen or special cable, when the device is installed under the ceiling.
The air flow on the valves of other brands can be adjusted using a plastic slider or membrane.
The productivity of the product is completely dependent on the traction in the exhaust shaft; With a negative pressure of 10 Pa, about 55 m³ of air enters the room in the room in 1 hour. But the fan is also capable of passing a larger air volume. For example, you turned on the hood that easily “stretches” 150 m3/h through the valve.
- energy independence;
- Reliability, service frequency. once a year (cleaning the filter);
- product accessibility;
- compatibility with any ventilation system. natural, mechanical, combined.
Unlike many of its advantages, the passive valve of the supply air has two significant drawbacks: it gives cold air and sometimes freezes at low temperatures. True, frost appears due to excess humidity (condensation) remaining indoors for various reasons.
Refining elements of ventilation
Tightly closed interior doors without a ventilation gap (or lattice) violate the exchange of air in the house. If streams from residential premises to the kitchen and bathroom are disconnected, ventilation in the house will stop working.
There is no need to change hermetic doors between the rooms by installing the grilles or cutting the door leaf. It is enough to integrate the input and output air valve of this design into the partition:
- 2 decorative lamps for opening Ø125-160 mm;
- a cylindrical insert, hollowed out of sound.absorbing material, 15 cm long;
- 2 clamping rings clamping screw.
Attention. The bypass valves are made only for partitions up to 150 mm thick. half of the brick plus cladding. For thicker walls, you will need to make a homemade bracket.
The installation of the inflow node and the hood of the air is very simple: the sound insulation is inserted into the prepared hole, then the rings are attached to the ends and screwed together. Diffusors are added to this that prevent light penetration from one room to another. information about how the damper works can be found in
Supply and exhaust valves with heat recovery
There are situations when there are initially no ventilation ducts in a private house. Ventilation of apartments can also be ineffective. the draft in the mines of the upper floors is quite weak. This problem is solved by installing supply and exhaust devices of reverse type.
Structurally, the installation is similar to the fan, only inside the pipe is an axial fan and a ceramic heat accumulator, as shown in the figure. A wall reverse valve can operate in 3 modes:
- Only supply filtering.
- Go out of the room.
- Heat recovery. combined mode, influx and hood work alternately.
The third regime is the main. The work algorithm is as follows: within 70 seconds, the fan blows air from the room out of the ceramic heat exchanger. Then everything happens in the opposite direction. the fan blows in the opposite direction, drawing into the outer air, heated along the way by the battery. After 70 seconds, the cycle is repeated.
The ventilation grill is attached to the surfaces, which should have maximum evenness. The gaps are not appropriate here. Therefore, the installation process itself begins only after the repair of the premises.
Attention! This element is selected in accordance with the section of the ventilation. That is, it must completely close the opening so that there is enough space for fasteners left enough.
Fastening screws or self.tapping screws
Before installing a ventilation grill, it is disassembled. That is, the ribbed part is removed from the frame.
- Now the housing is applied at the installation site and through the mounting holes, for example, in the wall are marked with a marker or pencil.
- The frame is laid aside and openings are made using a drill, where plastic dowels are then inserted then.
- Put a frame to the wall and fix it with self.tapping screws.
- Install the facade element.
Installation technology is the same as in the previous method. Just instead of screws, the adhesive composition is used. This is usually “liquid nails”. Glue is applied to the back of the edge of the frame, around the entire perimeter.
Put the latter in place of location, hold the required time with their hands so that the glue grabbed. Then the facade part is inserted.
This mounting method is well suited if the finish of the surfaces of the room was made of durable material: ceramic tiles, laminate, wood, washing wallpaper.
Plintos fixing or stacking
a method of fastening with a plinth or graduate
This option of installing ventilation grilles is used if they are made of wood. Not the easiest method, because here are a graduate or skirting board here is a kind of airspace.
Some masters act simply, simplifying the technology. They use one of the two previous installation options. And then a frame of skirting boards or graduates is made around the perimeter, forming a decorative frame. Both of the last elements can be “planted” on glue or fixed with self.tapping screws with small hats in size.
With spring pressing
In the design of some models, manufacturers install two spring.loaded spacer elements. They are located on the opposite sides of the grate. Their task is to get into the original position under the influence of the spring.
- Before fixing the ventilation grill, the spacer elements are compressed with the fingers so that they go inside beyond the edges of the case;
- The device is inserted into the hole of the ventilation room;
- fingers release spacers, which under the action of the springs press on the walls of the duct;
- The fastening is strong and reliable.
Features of installation
The main requirement is determined by the question. how to correctly install a ventilation grill: up or down. Here this refers to the orientation of the planks of the facade part.
In fact, there is no difference where the air distributor holes look at. After all, its main task is to close the hole and the inside of the duct. That is, in this regard, the device performs purely decorative functions. And if the thrust in the ventilation system is good, then the air will pass through the lattice, regardless of where the lamellas of its ribbed part are directed.
Here it is necessary to take into account the purely aesthetic side of the question. For example, if the grille is installed under the ceiling, as is often the case in the kitchen, in the bathroom and toilet, then the direction of the lamellas down will cause a good viewing of the channel opening, which is located behind the device. And if this duct is overgrown with web, garbage and dirt, then all this will be visible. Therefore, it is better to direct the lattice up.
All on the contrary with pepper models installed on the doors. They are located below the floor, so strips of ribbed part should be installed with a slope so that the slots between them are not visible from above.
The design of the kitchen requires the placement of cabinets, shelves, hoods, air conditioning and ventilation systems, cornice, paintings, frames for photos, kitchen devices and utensils.
So that the planned work is successful, and it was possible to hunes kitchen modules on the wall without fear, carefully think over the layout, take into account the structure and condition of the wall.
Items with a small weight of up to 5 kg hang, using the dowels “Drive”, “Snail”. They have elements for independent obtaining a hole and cutting threads in drywall. They screw them with a gikert or electric screwdriver. Helled kitchen interior items are applied to the wall, fixed places, insert the cross nozzle of the gayc guard into the head of the dowel and drill a hole.
Installing a massive kitchen cabinet, resort to methods without support on a drywall wall. If the partition is already installed or the wall is lined with GCL, and it is extremely necessary to hang the cabinet, the support load is redistributed to the structure of the structure, for this, a metal profile is found using a magnet.
Then they inspect the cabinet if it is revealed that the loops do not correspond to the distance between the metal strips of the frame, they are twisted or mounted to the wall an additional intermediate rail, and a cabinet is attached to it.
The choice of material and parameters of such a rail are dictated by the operational load of the modules and their own mass. Professionals use wide and long rails to redistribute the support load and protection of drywall. To exclude distortion, below is mounted on a stubborn rail of the same thickness.
For safe, cabinets with household appliances use external additional stubborn racks. Their installation is carried out vertically along the plasterboard structure, with rigid fixation to the floor and ceiling.
How to make a drywall hood with your own hands?
When carrying out repair work in the kitchen, many are faced with the problem of selection of hoods for dimensions of the room. In addition, finished products do not always fit harmoniously into the already finished interior of the kitchen. An excellent way out of this situation is to create a do.it.yourself extract.
Since the most popular and popular material for interior decoration is drywall, it can be easily used in this situation. By its properties, drywall will perfectly fit into the kitchen and will meet all its requirements. The main thing is to use only moisture.resistant sheets.
Choosing a bracket
Types of brackets
Having decided on the location, you need to choose the right bracket on which you will fix the TV. There are brackets for flat TVs:
Size compatibility and standards VESA
To choose a bracket for your TV, you need to know for sure the size of the screen diagonal, which is usually indicated in inches. Crasstens manufacturers indicate compatibility with the TV based on the minimum and maximum size. For example, if the package indicates that the bracket is designed for TVs from 30 to 60 inches, then buy it only if the size of your panel is within these limits.
Many manufacturers of brackets and TVs collaborate with the Video and Electronic Standards Association. VESA. According to the standards of this organization, types of mounts on brackets and their sizes are made.
Holes located according to Vesa standards
In TVs, which are made taking into account VESA standards, four holes for fasteners can be found on the back wall. These holes are designed to fasten the holding part of the bracket. The distance between the holes is standard and suitable for most brackets. Therefore, before buying a bracket for a TV, find out with which VESA standards it is compatible and buy a mount with the same VESA standards.
When choosing a bracket for the TV, do not forget to watch the product in the technical passport, for what weight it is designed. Do not buy a bracket if the mass of your TV coincides with the maximum weight that it is able to withstand. Otherwise, with further operation, this can lead to a breakdown of fastening and the fall of the TV. Better to pay more, but buy a bracket with a 30-50 percent margin of strength, for that you will be sure that your TV will not fall and will not break.
Also pay special attention to the bolts of fasteners, if their appearance or alloy from which they are made does not cause you confidence, it is better to replace them with new. A flat TV thing is expensive, so it is better to play it safe in details than buy a new panel.
How to choose a bracket for a TV, also watch in the video:
Installation of TV on the wall
After buying a bracket, you will have to install it on the wall and attach a TV to it. To do this, you can contact a specialist or install yourself. For self.installation, you will need the following tools:
- A pedorator drill suitable for dowel-shurups.
- Screwdriver Set.
Having made sure of all the tools and fastening elements, perform the following actions:
Teen Who Pushed Friend off Bridge Apologizes
- Using a pencil, level and roulette, mark the holes for dowel-shurups. Be sure to check the even position of the marks in relation to each other, because even a slight skew of the bracket, can over time lead to a drop in the TV.
- Drill holes with a peorator.
- Install the main part of the bracket on the wall and fasten it with dowel-shurups.
- Install the guide brackets on the TV using a screwdriver and bolts.
- Place the TV with the guides installed on it in the grooves, on the main part of the bracket. There are models of unrequited brackets. In this case, the bracket is entirely installed on the TV, and the whole structure is worn on the dowel. With a large size of the TV, this installation process is best done with a partner.
- Connect the food wire and television cable to the TV.
As you can see, the process of installing the TV is simple, but depending on the material from which the walls are made, it may be necessary in another fastener method:
- Walls of drywall. Installation can be much more complicated if you are going to hang a TV on a partition made of drywall. With this installation option, you will have to find the internal metal profile of the partition and attach the bracket to it, using the “butterflies” dowels.
- Wooden walls. The tree in strength is slightly inferior to brick or concrete, but to attach the bracket on a wooden wall, it is better to use instead of dowels, simple long self-tapping screws. For the plywood wall, you can also use the Dubel-“Butterflies”.
- Walls of brittle materials. If your house is built of gypsolite, arbolite or low.quality cinder block, then in this case, install the bracket using through fasteners. For through fastening, make a hole through the wall and instead of dowel-shurups, use bolts with nuts and wide washers.
How to hang a TV on the wall also watch in the video:
Installation of an exhaust fan in the bathroom
First of all, when installing a fan, it is necessary to disassemble it. take the front panel. To do this, click a round latch located on the lower edge of the fan, after which pull the front panel over.
Next, we throw the power cable inside. Especially for this, a rubber round plug is intended in the lower left of the fan. The channels on the back also go to her, with the external method of laying the power wire.
Connection of an exhaust fan
We proceed to connect the supply wires to the fan. This is done until the final fixation of the device intentionally, in order to check the performance of both the device itself and the connection scheme.
As usual, with any work with wires under voltage, turn off the protective circuit breakers. To do this, the accounting and distribution shield, it is necessary to lower the protective automation levers to the position “.””. If you are not sure what kind of circuit breaker or differential machine is responsible for the fishing line for the trimmer of ventilation in the bathroom, turn off everything, so it will be safer.
Connecting wires is made to the fan terminals hidden by the protective lid, on the right side of the device.
We adjust the supply wires in size, cutting the excess. Then we remove the protective shell and isolation from the cable lived for 5-7mm.
To connect enough phase (white) and zero (white-blue) wires. Grounding is not connected to this model, since the housing and all its external elements are made of dielectric materials and danger do not pose.
There are only two terminals of the fan, they are marked as l and n.
The procedure for connecting the wires to the exhaust fan is as follows:
White phase wire. into a terminal with marking l
Blue-white zero wire-to the terminal with marking n
How to determine which of the phase wires, zero, and which grounding yourself, our detailed instructions will help you. HERE.
Place the wires in terminals and tighten the fasteners.
Now, you can close the protective cover, and check the performance and correct connection of the exhaust fan. To do this, we turn on the supply of electric current, and translate the key of the switch that controls the fan to the “VCL” position.
If everything is done correctly, the indicator in the upper left corner and the fan blades will begin to rotate. After checking, we must turn off the exhaust fan and proceed to its fastening.
Installation of rectangular duct fans
Recently, rectangular duct fans are developed for installation in any position (vertical, horizontal or at an angle). This applies to all gap fans of any type, with the exception of roof fans with mandatory horizontal installation.
The condition for the proper operation of the channel fan is to provide straight sections without additional components of the ventilation system (filters, damper, distributors, etc.D.). This condition avoids aerodynamic losses in the air flow. The exception is ventilation valves that provide a low level of noise of the operating system.
The length of the required direct section at the inlet to the channel fan should be at least one diameter of the connected duct and at least three such diameters at the output.
Compliance with this rule guarantees the uninterrupted operation of the ventilation system and the lack of performance loss.
To fasten the channel fan to the wall or ceiling, you can use the holes provided on the flanges. This greatly facilitates the fastening using brackets, special clamps or other designs. The main rule when attaching and connecting the channel fan with the components of the ventilation system. all connections must ensure tightness and strength.
Installation of round duct fans
Unlike rectangular fans, round duct fans are best installed in a horizontal position. As mentioned above, they can be installed in any position, but maximum efficiency is achieved with horizontal installation. Many round channel fans have a special noise.absorbing plastic case. This allows you to exclude additional noise lords from the design of the ventilation system.
The process of installing round duct fans is very similar to the installation process of rectangular duct fans, with the same requirements for direct entrance and output sections. However, round air ducts allow the use of simpler and less expensive components of the ventilation system.
Havells Ceiling Fan – Customer Installation Tips
Another feature of round ducts is the need for special mounts. Such mounts should ensure the reliability and strength of all components without changing the shape of the air duct.
Installation of ventilation systems with ducts should be performed by qualified specialists with experience in installing such systems. The preliminary detailed calculation of the system will avoid most problems associated with the installation and adjustment of individual sections and the entire system. The use of independent components or joints of the canal fans and ducts is allowed only in cases where it is impossible to use standard structures. All connections in the ventilation system should fit tightly and provide a reliable connection.
Connection to the mains
A correctly connected fan is always under voltage. the so.called waiting mode, as evidenced by the indicator located on its case. Many models are equipped with inclusion timers that start the device after the end of water procedures and turn it off at a time specified by the user, sufficient for effective ventilation.
How to connect a channel fan to a home electric network? Will help the connection scheme invested in the instructions for the operation of the product.
Many products can work in any position, when installing and connecting, you need to strictly comply with the following rules:
- It is necessary to leave areas with a length of at least one and a half meters in front of suction and pressure pipes;
- flanges with a diameter or side length of more than 400 mm must be strengthened with additional mounts;
- The fan is fixed on independent pendants or brackets to avoid excessive load on the duct and its flexible inserts;
- mount the product in such a place to ensure convenient access to it through regular hatches arranged in the duct for its proper operation;
- With high humidity of the moved air flow, when there is a danger of condensation, the channel fan with the opening plate of the electric motor is mounted upwards.
The instructions for using the device have all the manufacturer’s recommendations on its proper installation in compliance with all precautions.
The advantages of duct fans
These devices have such undoubted advantages:
- very high performance and effectiveness;
- low noise exposure to others;
- unconditional compactness of location;
- exact balancing of the shaft, which contributes to prolonged work without the necessary maintenance;
- Simple installation.
When choosing this type of fan for the room where personal hygiene of all those living in the apartment is carried out, users should pay attention to the diameter of the product so that it corresponds to the size of the air duct used. In addition, it is worthwhile to ask a special parameter responsible for the exchange of air per unit time for the room where the product will be installed so that the performance is appropriate. For the bathroom, this value will be 8, for the bathroom. 10, and for the shower it increases to 25. In order to accurately calculate the fan performance you need for high.quality ventilation, you need to know the volume of the room and multiply it by the standard frequency of air exchange.
For example, at a height of 2.75 m and an area of 5.5 kV. meters of the bathroom, fan performance should be at least 5.5×2.75×8 = 121 m 3 /h.
Knowing the calculated performance, you can easily choose the appropriate channel fan.