TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES
Often, many masters of sewing in the process of work more than once faced with fairly common problems of skipped stitches or poor-quality stitching. Changing all sorts of sewing machine settings or alternating different types of stitches, as a rule, does not radically change things for the better, and then, everything is usually accepted to write off on the poor quality of equipment or unscrupulousness of the manufacturer.
However, true professionals with the proper experience and qualifications are not always so categorical. They know one of the basic secrets of sewing, which, in fact, is not a secret, and one of the fundamentals of this industry, the quality of the result depends directly on the proper selection of needle.
Indeed, it is the needle installed in the sewing machine that will determine the smooth operation and quality of the result. Modern needles are characterized by the widest variety, they may have different sharpening options, shape of the ear, groove size, etc.д. All these features, some of which are practically invisible to the human eye, significantly affect the formation of the stitching, its integrity and quality.
And experts emphasize that, whatever the features of the needle, it must fit the type and thickness of the fabric. In addition, modern technology used in light industry, is steadily leading to the emergence of new types of fabric, which have different properties and characteristics. When working with such fabrics it is necessary to ensure the strength and quality of thread joints, while not damaging the structure of the fabric itself.
Usually, needle type and fabric type correspondence are indicated in the sewing machine manual. However, relying entirely on these data still should not be true professionals must have the knowledge and skills of interchangeability of needles, know their features and characteristics, since it is this knowledge will help further facilitate the work.
So, for example, sewing needles should be systematized very carefully. The needle system can be individual for different machines and when buying a needle, you need to know not only the type of machine it is designed for, but also what the bulb of the needle itself should be. For example, DBx1 and DPx5 needles. Despite the fact that both are used for straight sewing machines, but the bulbs of the two models are different. You can check the type of needle either by looking in the manual or by checking it with the original machine needle. Some manufacturers also specify the needle type directly on the machine body. If you buy a machine, you should see and write down the type of needle at once, so that you don’t burden yourself with long and tiresome searches afterwards.
How to choose the right needles for a home sewing machine?
In order to properly select and buy a needle for a sewing machine, you need to decide for what purposes they will be used and with what types of fabrics they will work. Needles have special markings, allowing you to accurately identify their belonging and the possibility of interaction with materials of different thicknesses.
Numbers on sewing machine needle markings
All domestic shuttle stitch sewing machines have been equipped with130/705H standard needles for many years. These numbers 130/705 mean for the average consumer that the needle is designed for a domestic sewing machine and has a flat bulb. For those who are new to sewing: it is not bad to know that there are also needles with round bulbs, they are for industrial sewing machines.
Traditionally, the best needles are from German companies, such as Schmetz, Organ Needles, Grotz-Beckert.
Sewing machine needle standards chart
The number that appears in the name of the needle refers to its thickness (diameter) in hundredths of a millimeter or fractions of an inch. The higher the value of the digit, with which a needle is marked, the thicker it is. Some manufacturers may specify two values at once, such as 100/16 or 120/19. This means that the needle size is stated in two units: in millimeters and in inches.
rough correspondence of needle diameters and types of fabric:
Easily Inserting Industrial Needles
- High elastic knitwear, lycra and other elastic materials needles 5-90;
- light fabrics for shirts, blouses needles 0-70;
- Fine fabrics (cambric, chiffon, crepe de Chiffon, etc.).п.). needles 0-90
- Linen, calico, chemical and staple fibers, and costume materials. needles 0-90
- Light wool fabrics and heavy man-made fibres, denim. needle 00;
- Heavy woollen fabrics needle size 10;
- Coarse cloth, bobbin, burlap. needle 20;
- heavy and super-heavy materials (leather, tarpaulin, etc.).п.). needles for such fabrics have to be adapted individually, since depending on the textile density, needle markings can vary from 00 to 00.
In addition to numbers in the marking of sewing needles can be found and letter designations, which determine the scope of each specific needle, t.е. Types of fabrics it is designed for.
H. All-purpose needles. Needle point slightly rounded, suitable for soft fabrics, linen, calico, cotton etc.
H-J (jeans). Needles for dense fabrics. Sharper sharpened, therefore suitable for sewing thicker fabrics, e.g. denim, twill, crochet.п.
H-M (microtex). Microtex needles. Sharper and finer. Such needles are used for precise piercing of microfiber, fine and dense woven fabrics, coated and uncoated capes, silk, taffeta, etc.п.
H-S (stretch). Needles for stretchy fabrics. These needles have a special edge that virtually eliminates the possibility of skipped stitches when stretching the seam. Rounded point spreads the fibers of the fabric without damaging them. Used for sewing medium-density knits and synthetic stretch fabrics.
H-E (embroidery). Embroidery needles. The aperture of the lug in such needles is small, the tip. slightly rounded. They also have a recess in the eye of the needle which, combined with the other features of the needle, prevents damage to fabric or thread. Designed for decorative embroidery with special embroidery threads.
H-EM metallic embroidery or sewing needles. Has a large polished eye and groove to prevent delamination of metallic threads. Numbers 80 and 90. 0 needle for delicate fabrics. 0 for heavier, denser fabrics.
H-Q (quilting). Needles for quilting. These needles have a special bevel, a reduced eye and a rounded point to avoid skipped stitches and puncture marks on the fabric. Typically used in decorative stitches.
H-SUK (jersey). Needles with rounded point. Easily separates fabric and buttonhole yarns and passes between the yarns to prevent material damage. Ideal for thick knitwear, jersey, and knit materials.
H-LR, H-LL (leder leather). Needles for leather with a cutting point. Needle cuts at a 45° angle to the direction of the seam. The result is a decorative stitch, the stitches of which have a slight slope.
H-O Needle with blade. designed for finishing seams, decorative stitching. Needles of this type have different width of blades. The blades may be on one side of the point or on both sides. Using these needles in those applications where the needle makes several needle punctures in the same area, will increase the decorative effect.
H-ZWI Double Needle. Combines two needles in a single needle holder. Its designation. This is a decorative finish and making of guards. Hemming the bottoms of knitwear (on the wrong side a zigzag stitch will be formed). Needles have only three sizes (0,80,90) and three types (H, J, E ). The distance between needles is indicated on the package in millimeters (1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0). The higher the number, the wider the needle spacing. Needles 4.0 и 6.0 can only be used on straight stitches.
H-DRI Triple needle. only comes in two sizes (2.5, 3.0). This needle type is similar to the H-ZWI marking. When sewing with this type of needle, use double-needle stitches. The wrong stitch can break the needle and damage the machine or cause injury.
Topstitch Special needles for decorative stitches. The needle has a large eye and a large groove so that the decorative thread (it is thicker than usual to be clearly visible on the fabric) easily passed through it. If you need to stitch with loose decaying threads, this needle is the best choice. Numbers from 80 to 100. For light, medium and heavy fabrics.
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If the needle is correctly selected, the stitch will have a beautiful appearance, and there will be no damage to the material.
Smooth thread passage at high sewing speeds is ensured by the streamlined eye of the needle and its external shape. Because the inside of the eyelet is smooth, there is no binding or tearing of the thread.
A good loop depends on the shape of the chute. The earlier round groove is mostly replaced by “Pontoon” the trough, because this allows the best possible loop formation and prevents damage to the foot.
The design of the needle bar determines the force with which the needle will pierce the fabric and its lifespan.
In a sewing machine needle holder has a certain size, if the size of the bulb does not match the size of the holder, then you will not be able to use the machine as intended.
A distinction is made between round and flat bulb. Some systems feature a round bulb with a notch to hold the needle in place.
Classification and application of sewing needles
Needles with a cutting point (for heavy materials, for leather goods):
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Needles with pressed point (for straight and blindstitching, knits and other woven materials):
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Denim needles
This type of sewing needle is a good example of careful and responsible product development. For sewing denim we use needles marked RG. Despite the fact that the sewing needle itself is quite a tiny object, the specialists have managed to work out all the smallest details in its design.
Needles of this series are manufactured using a titanium nitride coating, which has physical properties superior to the hardest steel and metal alloys. This makes the jeans needles very durable and long-lasting.
Particular attention is paid to the shape of the needle point, it is thinner than conventional needles, the end of the needle is slightly rounded. This shape combined with the above-mentioned titanium nitride coating technology offers an excellent result, virtually eliminating damage to the material and minimizing the risk of skipped stitches.
Missed stitches and needle breakage are most often caused by a significant deflection of the needle when sewing cross stitches. Needle designers have taken this into account and redesigned the blade shape. Its conical shape, complemented by a cross-sectional groove, gives the needle 20 to 40% higher bending resistance compared to a standard needle.
Needles for leather goods
The needles in this series are another source of pride for the manufacturer. Specialists have developed several needle modifications with a cutting point that allow for more efficient work with different types of leather. Among the main advantages of leather sewing needles are low possibility of needle breakage, minimal stitch skipping and thread breakage, highest quality slit. Thanks to these features, sewing craftsmen can significantly increase productivity and use these needles for a long period of time with high intensity.
The main types of skin treatment needles and their applications:
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Needles for sewing on buttons
Most buttonhole needles are equipped with an RG-point. This is the form that has been recognized by researchers as the most effective and practical to use. Due to the thin point, the needle can pass freely through the hole in the button, thus eliminating the possibility of damaging it. The same special needle shape can significantly reduce needle resistance values by an average of 40 % compared to conventional needles. This protects the material, threads and the button itself from various negative influences, and increases the service life of the needle itself.
Needles for technical materials
Key features are the same titanium nitride coating, the same RG-point, and the design includes many details for future needle use. These needles feature a cross-section blade for improved needle stability and a reinforced working section for improved resistance. This type of needle is also designed with a deeper groove and a special eye shape, thus minimizing the risk of thread breaks and skipped stitches.
These needle designs guarantee excellent results in particular in technical materials, which are not only aesthetic but also functional.
Needles for fine knitwear
Fine knitted materials are very popular today. However, in order to process them well, it is sometimes necessary to meet more stringent requirements than with other fabrics. In many respects this is due to the fact that when sewing clothes from delicate materials, special attention must be paid not only to the beauty of the product, but also to the maximum possible comfort of wearing it. For quality sewing in these applications, it is important to pay close attention to the needles used in fine fabrics. For delicate fabrics there is a wide range of different needles.
Needles for sewing and embroidery
The point of this needle type for knitwear and textiles is standard. No tip marking or marking is possible “R”. Applicable for: light fabrics, thin materials with or without coating, mass production of ready-made dress made of fur, leather and textile materials.
Small spherical point “SES”. These needles move the threads of the fabric easily, passing between them without damaging the material. Especially suitable for jersey and knitted fabrics, but can also be used for: fine to medium jersey, fine denim, multi-layer textile/textile.
Medium spherical point “SUK”. Compared to “SES” The point is more rounded. Probably the best needle for denim fabrics such as denim “sand washed”, “stone washed” (particularly in prefabrication and larger needle sizes) and in corsetry (optimally with finer needles). Ideal for coarse knitwear, corsetry and medium to coarse denim.
Large spherical point “SKF”. The more rounded shape of the ballpoint allows the point to handle coarse knits and stretch fabrics without damaging them. Best for delicate elastic materials or elastomer wound yarns, coarse knits.
Special ball point “SKL”. Pinpoint piercing of the fabric for better expansion of individual threads. It is the most suitable for working with Lycra materials, but is also suitable for other elastic materials (from medium to coarse), including knitwear.
Slim rounded point “SPI”. This type of needle provides precise piercing of tightly woven and coated materials. Used for microfleece, silk, coated fabrics, heavy woven fabrics such as canvas, smooth but heavy fabrics, and for sewing cuffs, collars, and shirt-front trims. Correct stitch formation, no bending or twisting when using twin needles.
Sewing double needle is indispensable for sewing garments with a double stitch finish. Finishing stitches in jeans, patch s, men’s shirt details, etc.п. Double-needle stitching to produce a neat and tidy stitch.
How to use the twin needle?
How to use the twin needle? Just like an ordinary needle, just buy the right double needle for your sewing machine model and thread both upper threads simultaneously into the two needles. The lower thread in the bobbin will be used by both upper threads at the same time.
Double needles are not suitable for all machines.
Як заправити нитку в швейній машинці Подольськ142
Twin needles can sew various fabrics, but only in machines with zigzag stitch, straight-stitch machines such as Podolsk not designed for their use. The needle plate of such machines is one round hole, and for a double needle requires a narrow and wide slit, used in machines with zigzag stitching. In addition, the thread guides for the second spool are also needed.
For a second bobbin need a creel.
Modern sewing machines Janome, Brother, Juki and many others have a creel for two spools of thread and paired thread guides and thread guides, which are separately made threading upper thread.
Double needle is installed in a sewing machine, just like a normal needle. The groove of the needle (spike) should point backwards, away from you, and the round side. on itself, go ahead. Each spool must have a separate pin (spool holder), sometimes an additional one is installed for this. If there is only one coil post on the machine body, a second post must be supplied with the machine. The threads from the spools run through all thread guides, including the upper thread tensioner together, and only the lowest thread guides separate them by needle. The left needle goes into the left needle, the right needle. into the right. If there is only one needle, as with the Seagull, then the left thread goes through the needle, and the right next to it, right into the eye of the right needle.
What needles are available and their purpose.
Double needle can have different spacing between needles. narrower, wider, and there are even triple needles. Different width gives you the opportunity to choose the width of the finishing stitch and use it for design. The use of double needles is more for decorative stitches that are not heavily stressed.
Of course, you can do finishing stitching on the shirt or valve. But, we should not forget that for the formation of a seam double needle uses only one thread of the lower, so especially strong such a stitch will not be. But, for example, for embroidering two or three parallel designs at the same time double needle is simply indispensable. Especially effective looks such a pattern if the threads are different colors. Using double needles with a narrow space between them, you can create a shadow simulation in the pattern. Narrow needles lay the threads on top of each other, creating a shadow effect. In addition to a simple finishing stitch, double needles can be used for sewing braid, making a rubber band assembly, pincers and other operations.
When shopping for twin needles for your sewing machine, check the maximum width of your machine’s needle plate or simply the width of your machine’s zigzag stitch. Improperly sized needles can break, catching the needle plate.
Also, before you sew with a twin needle, watch the stitch switch. The stitch should not be set to zigzag or other needle offset, such as sewing on a zipper, etc.п. The double needle should only work in straight stitch mode. In any other mode, they would simply break on the sewing machine needle plate.
Needles for industrial machines have a completely different alphanumeric indexing and are slightly different from conventional needles for domestic sewing machines. But about this we will talk next time. Here at the end, I want to give as an example, a needle for hemstitching machines. It has a peculiar curved shape.
Needle. The most important detail in a sewing machine
Singer received his first patent for a sewing machine on August 12, 1851; his second patent was received in 1852. After that comes a break until 1854. В 1854.1856 inventor holds a record number of patents.16. And then, after a decade’s hiatus, two more patents. Among the patents received by Singer, as anyone can see, there is no patent “for a sewing machine needle with a hole at the sharp end”. It appears that sewing machine inventors would not have filed such an application. because such sewing needles were known at the time. In 1755, for example, Charles Weisenthal received the British Patent 01 for a double-edged embroidery needle with an eye at one end of the needle. Also known was the British patent 0078, dated October 30, 1807, of Edward and William Chapman, for a machine for making cloth belts or flat ribbons, using needles with an eye at the pointed end. An Austrian tailor from Vienna, Madersperger, used a pointed-needle in his sewing machine, for which he received a patent in 1839.
So, it is not known who invented the needle. But it still appeared. And looked like this.
In photo 1, the needle. Here is her structure:
- Spike, with a machining stroke.
- The stem,
- Short chute.
- The hole.
- The point of the needle.
- Flask, or ampoule (popular name)
- The long groove
All sewing machine needles are divided into two types:
In photo 2, from one of the first, sewing machine, “Singer”. This is a household needle, as it has a spike. On it, the machining stroke, from the grinder. But this needle does not have the flattening as on modern needles.
In photo 3, a household needle, for straight sewing machines.
On household needles, on the ampulla. sawtooth! And industrial needles have no spline!
I propose to determine, for which machines, suitable needle shown in Photo 3.
Here are the names of the dots, on a modern household needle:
From the back of the needle, from the ampoule or flask through the needle hole runs. The long groove, or whatever it’s called. Long groove.
By the machining stroke, you can determine whether it is artisanal production or industrial. For this needle, the grinding is done, on the factory machine.
If the machining stroke is perpendicular to the needle and coated with Chromium on top, you can only say with certainty that. The needle is factory made. Not artisanal.
Photo 4, shows needles, for sewing machines. Above the needle, written above the machine class for which it is suitable. Is it possible to determine the needle number?
To determine the needle number, measure the diameter of the shank. And multiply the result by 100. Example: Needle diameter 1, 1 mm x 100 =10.
Note the sharpening, needle point. Here needles, only two types.
- Grade 23 Needle. bayonet sharpening. needle blunted. Designed for. leather. 10
- Class 23 needle. sharpening is round.”awl”. Designed for. fabrics. 80.
- Needle grade 23. round sharpening. “awl”. Designed for. fabrics. 80.
- Grade 23 Needle. bayonet sharpened. needle blunted. Designed for. skin. 70.
- 97 grade needle. sharpening is round. “awl”. Designed for. fabrics. 30.
- Needle 1022 M class. bayonet sharpening. The ampoule is thinner than a needle. leather. 20.
- Grade 22 needle. sharpening is round. “needle“. Ampoule thicker than the. fabrics. 20.
- Needle for domestic machines. Sewing both straight stitch and zigzag stitch. 0.
- Needle from overlock 51 class.
Note! The overlock needle has two flats! One under the number. Second one at the bottom, like a normal needle!
Look carefully. The hole on the needle is in the short groove. Knowing how the needle works makes it easier to set up the machine. The shape of the blade determines for which machines and for which operations the needle is designed.
What gives this knowledge:
- From the flattened needle, the hook spout, removes the upper thread.
- From the shape of the flats, depends on what machines, and for what operations, this needle is designed.
- According to the shape, the tip of the sharpening, determine for what materials it is designed. There are more than 40 types of sharpening, needle point.
- The ampoule is determined by the ampoule:
- Industrial needle. Or.
- Domestic.
In photo 5, two needles from a class 23 machine.
So:. These needles are factory needles. Since they are covered. Chrome. Industrial, only for straight sewing machine.
Since, bald. The needle with the lower needle is short, then only straight stitches can be sewn with this needle. Sharpening. top needle under. under the fabric. The sharpening of the lower. under the skin. shoe leather.
Photo 6, two household needles, as there is a saw cut on them. Top needle. Note the groove and the bevel are in parallel planes. Unlike the lower needle. The needles are the same length. Cloth sharpening. The length is also the same. But the bottom needle has a groove and a spike. not in parallel planes. This is a factory-made, defective needle. When sewing a needle, the machine will fail in 3 minutes, this is the order of failure:
- From the first impact with the needle. Blunt shuttle spout.
- This makes the needle slightly bent.
- When lowering the needle down. The nose of the hook, will pass the needle, there will be a skip stitch.
- Blunt nose, will hit the needle, once again, and bend it to the side. And break it.
How the needle works?
When sewing, the needle along with the thread pierces the fabric, the thread is located in a long groove and therefore easily follows the needle. The same thing happens when the needle is moved upward, but the shorter groove side is where the thread gets caught and creates a loop underneath that is caught by the hook and that is how the sewing process takes place.
In case the thread does not get into the long groove, it is sure to break, which is why the question of how to insert the needle into the sewing machine, so important.
Repair mechanism
Repair is best left to professionals, but some minor malfunctions seamstress can fix themselves, using the manual.
How to install the sewing machine needle
Properly positioned, the long groove of the needle for thread sliding should be on the right side, where the thread is tucked into the eye.
The needle must be inserted into the needle holder until it stops, then secured with the head screw.
On some sewing machines “Podolsk” location is different. before you start to work better to clarify the instructions.
How to check the fasteners, connections nodes
It is fixed with a self-locking nut, so a screwdriver is needed for operation. Inspect the machine, if you find play loosen the nut and tighten the sleeve. The tension should not be tight, a small gap should be left.
Check the manual drive
The most common problems. weak knots, loose handle and lack of lubrication. Tighten the screws “M” and “K” with a screwdriver and oil everything, especially the screws themselves.
The weakest part is the thread winding device. Most often the rubber rim wears out, which must be replaced.
How to remove the dried grease
This is done with a special brush with resilient and strong bristles. After disassembling the parts, wipe off the grease.
How to adjust the needle bar
This is done with a special screw, which is located inside the body. Since the screw is completely hidden, you can only twist it with a flat screwdriver to the touch.
Need to make a turn the flywheel, bring the hook to the needle and tighten the screw.
“Podolsk”. An essential attribute of sewing quality and modern things. The main advantage of the machine are its performance characteristics. In addition, such a machine is durable and enduring. No internal mechanisms are damaged due to the aluminum housing. All parts are made of durable metal. If necessary, to repair and adjust their work is very simple.
All knots with fasteners are accurate and reliable. Another plus of such a machine. many of the faults are due to the fact that the wrong needle was installed or the upper thread is tucked. That is to implement the repair of sewing machines “Podolsk” with their own hands is not difficult. Only need to conduct preventive maintenance with lubrication at home.
Hand drive sewing machine Podolsk
Look at the condition of the manual drive of the machine. It often happens that all of its parts are loose and unlubricated. Retighten the hub screws (M) and (K) with a large screwdriver. Of course, everything needs to be liberally lubricated, especially drop oil under these screws, since they also serve as a bushing at the same time.
If the wooden handle is loose, put the lower edge of the sleeve with the handle on a solid metal surface, the upper edge of the sleeve flatten with a hammer, only preferably done by a skilled person, otherwise you could damage the handle. Check the fastening of the drive to the sewing machine body and tighten with a powerful screwdriver or wrench.
In the 19th century, Georg Neidlinger, a European agent for the Singer company, suggested that sewing machine production be established in Russia. The factory, under the direction of Walter Frank Dixon, was built quickly. Provincial Podolsk had plenty of cheap land and labor. German concern, expanding the production of sewing equipment, in 1902 opened a factory in Podolsk.
By 1913, the Podolsk company was producing 600,000 sewing machines a year. That’s 2,500 pieces a day. They were sold all over the Russian Empire, were not inferior in quality to imported devices, for the poor people were sold in installments. There was a network of company stores across the country.
After the revolution, the company was nationalized, but despite the breakdown of relations with the head office, the production of equipment did not stop. Only 77 years later, in 1994, Singer resumed cooperation with the Podolsk representative office.
How to correctly insert a needle into a sewing machine
How to correctly insert the needle into the sewing machine. this question is almost the most important in the work on the sewing machine. Indeed, how many times have I been approached by friends to look at their machine. why it does not sew? Although I am not a mechanic, I have looked and found sometimes the only reason is that the needle is not inserted correctly! The machine, though not a rocket, it is still a very fine tool, and it is all precisely verified, every gear, cam, groove has its purpose and is in its place. So it can’t be neglected. This also applies to the needle.
Asking the question: “How to insert the needle into the sewing machine?”, people are, of course, interested in their own car. Of course, who asks this question, faces this problem for the first time. Therefore, all the questions: “How to insert the needle into the sewing machine Podolsk? How to insert a needle into a sewing machine Seagull? How to insert a needle into a sewing machine singer? How to insert the needle into a manual sewing machine? How to insert a needle into an old sewing machine?” the answer is the same: needles are inserted into any machine the same way.
BUT! There is one rule: you need to know what side to insert the needle into the sewing machine. When we were learning how to thread a sewing machine for the first time, I already paid attention to this question. But then we talked more about how to insert the thread into the needle, which side. It is clear that with the one where the needle is located. And this is where the conversation turned to the question: how to insert the needle? So in this article, we will focus separately on this problem, and in the video lesson we will visually examine the whole process.
The needle does not go down
The needle does not go down. Why the sewing machine does not sew? This master class is the answer to the questions of subscribers.
The solution to this problem applies to all types of sewing machines: 2-M class, Chaika and similar, which have access to the flywheel.
This problem occurs when, for some reason, you have to remove the flywheel and then put it back on again. People who are not familiar with the work of the mechanic and with not much experience in sewing often make these mistakes. This problem once touched me, too, so I share my experience.
In a lesson on setting up sewing machines, I forgot about this point, then I remembered it, but the clip was already online. However, this question came back to me and I decided to do a master class.
Подольск 142 М Podolsk 142 M Ussr Nähmaschine Sewing machine Швейная машина test ремонт
- First, don’t be afraid to unscrew something, but remember the order of the parts.
- Never do it on your knees. There should always be some free space on the table so that you can sequentially arrange the removed parts without losing any of them, even the smallest one.
- In machines, there are mechanisms that have screws with very short threads. Since it is not visible from the outside, unscrew any screw very carefully, otherwise you risk losing it.
- “If a door won’t open one way, try opening it the other” says a wise proverb. This is the popularly known “poke method”. Use it.
The friction nut, in addition to the “tendrils” outward, must also be installed in the correct position. Note: on one side of the “tendril” there are two limiting lugs and on the other side of the other “tendril” there is only one. Since the wheel rotates, I can’t tell you what position to put the washer in: if anything is wrong, you just turn the washer around the axis by 180º. Stop screw (small screw), which is in the friction screw, rests in the limiting tabs on the friction washer when unscrewing and tightening the nut to transfer the machine to idle or working stroke.
In the video I showed how it all happens.
I think I got it. The main thing for me in this lesson was to get a result.Good luck! And see you there!
Write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев about your repair experience. what worked? This will be very helpful to other users.
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