How to install fans in the housing correctly

The best cooling PC in conditions of a limited number of fans. Destroy stereotypical cooling schemes and blow the body as efficiently as possible

The best cooling PC in conditions of a limited number of fans. Destroy stereotypical cooling schemes and blow the body as efficiently as possible. Theory and practice of cooling.

How to effectively cool components inside the system unit? It would seem that a simple question is that no experienced PC user will think about the answer, and even more so an overclock or a computer enthusiast. Like what is there to think: cold air goes along the bottom, and hot air rushes upward. Simple physics from the school course, therefore, it is necessary to organize blowing (cold air) from below, and having blew hot air from above, cold air should go through all components, simultaneously cooling them and become warm, and “throw it away” from the body through the classics through the fan located on the back wall. But this is a theory. The theory that does not take into account the air flows created by the fans and the number of these same fans.

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I propose to consider the situation more specific and close to reality: how to effectively cool the components inside the system unit, having only two fans? Let’s look at both classic cooling schemes and atypical ways to arrange fans in the case.

What are the fans inside the computer?

As mentioned above, during long.Term work, the elements of the computer can heat up. Most of all. The central processor, motherboard, GPU (graphic processor). Air cooling is usually used to reduce their temperature. Fan, it is also called the cooler, blowing hot air, which is assembled around hot elements. Cooling by creating air flow is the most practical and inexpensive option. Heating parts can additionally be equipped with radiators (heat heaters). The more powerful the computer, the more it needs to cool.

Having removed the nameplate and the plug from the cooler during the analysis of the computer, you can see the following components:

• A bronnote engine that functions from direct current;
• Rotor;
• The impeller fixed on the plastic basis of the rotor;
• A magnet of an entire.Metal structure;
• Copper coil from magnetic circuits at the stature.

The rotation of the cooler shaft occurs when the rated voltage is supplied to 12V.

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To illustrate, I will give an example from life. In search of the best way to cool my desktop, I turned the fan in the BP for a blowing. In theory, this should improve the cooling of the BP. After all, now it is blown by fresh air, and not used from the body. However, thermal attorney of the PSU showed the exact opposite. The temperature increased by 2 degrees! How could this happen? The answer is simple. The payment with the sensor is installed away from the fan and therefore ended up in the aerodynamic shadow. Since some other elements were in this shadow together with a thermal attribute, the status of a quo was restored in order to avoid failure.

Now let’s move on to practice from the theory. Our main task. Increase the area of ​​ventilation holes, and preferably quickly and without the use of locksmithing tools. Their area should be at least equal to the efficient area of ​​the fan (that is, the area omitted by blades), and it is better to exceed it one and a half times. For example, for a 80-mm fan, an effective area is approximately 33 square meters.Cm. If there are several fans and they all work on blowing (or, conversely, all on the bite), their effective area is folded. This measure is especially relevant for the buildings of old structures, which still remember the Pentium-2 and nevertheless continue to be produced (and sold) until the stamps are completely worn out.

Such “veterans” include my desktop Codegen, who has already experienced three motherboards. Of the “amenities” it takes place under 90-mm the front fan, which, according to the designers, should suck air through the gap at the bottom of the front panel with an area of ​​only 5 kV. Cm., Yes, symbolic holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm opposite it (later I drilled them in a checkerboard pattern up to 4 mm. So it became even more beautiful). Of course, the case is not a submarine, the air will be sucked through other small cracks and leaks, the exact accounting of which is impossible. But still, the ventilation in the normal mode resembles running in a gas mask.

Computer configuration during testing:

• CPU Athlon T-Red-B 1.6V. 1800@166×11, Evercool ND15-715 cooler is connected after 3. Switch (used the second speed, 2700 rpm)
• M/B EPOX 8RDA3, blowing the bridge disconnected
• Video ASUS 8440 Deluxe (GF4Ti4400), act. Coler closes the chip and memory.
• 512 MB RAM HYNIX
• HDD Samsung 7200 rpm
• CD-ROM, FDD, RACK container
• Modem
• TV/Capture Card Flyvideo
• PSU Codegen 250W
• Total power (without PSU). About 180 watts

The processor temperature was measured through Sandra, video cards. According to built.In sensors through SmartDoctor, in the case under the top cover above the processor (not forgotten. The desktop housing) was placed a remote sensor of the electronic thermometer, the second sensor of this thermometer measured the temperature in the room. Then the results were given to the outer temperature of 23 degrees.

The system was loaded in the launch of 3DMark2001SE game tests in the game test cycle. In the initial state, the temperature in the case exceeded the external by 15 degrees, the temperature of the video card (chip/memory) was more by 55/38 degrees., 39 degree processor. For comparison, measurements with an open cover were carried out. Results: The temperature of the video card is larger than the external by 44/30 degrees, the processor. 26 degrees.

First, try to follow the traditional path. What first thought comes to mind when looking at this building? “If there is a hole for the fan, the way there should at least stand there” (quite “golden calf”). Well, let’s put. What is the result? The temperature sensor in the case did not respond at all to our manipulations, the processor temperature decreased by 1 degree, and the video card by 4-5 degrees (by the way, another traditional step gave about the same result. Installation next to the Gembird SB-A bluver video card). Actually, this is the “traditional path” and ends.

Now we will return everything to its original state and go the other way. We pull out two plugs of expansion slots next to the video card. Two hares are killed at once: a new “hole” appears for ventilation of the case and the stagnant zone near the video card is eliminated. In addition, we will break the protective “comb” at the front air intake (since it is from below and it is still not visible). Its area will triple, and the total size of the ventilation holes will be 45 square meters. Cm.

The result was not long in coming. The temperature in the case fell by two degrees, and the video card pleased even more, throwing 9 degrees on the chip and 7 degrees at the memory. Agree, a good result, besides, is completely free. This option can be recommended for cards with a passive cooler as an alternative to installation of a fan. And if this is not enough? Adding the front fan to the blowing leads to a paradoxical result. Temperature of both housing and video cards. Rises! A little, only one degree, but nevertheless. This is explained simply. Now more air enters the case through the front hole and less. Via the back of the video card.

And if you put it on blowing? Here’s a completely different matter. Both fans (in the PSU and additional) are now included in parallel, their expenses are added up, and here is the result. The video card “colder” was 3-4 degrees, and the general decrease in temperature compared to the original option was 12 degrees on the video chip, 10 degrees on video memory and 5 degrees in the case (and, accordingly, at the processor). Please note that the video card here is colder than in the open case! The costs were limited to the purchase of one medium.Sized case fan.

Finally, the last option, “extreme”. All three fans (PSU, front and blover) for blowing, additionally open another slot from behind. The blover was installed in the lower (out of two) five-inch compartment instead. Results. The processor “colder” was compared to the previous option of 4 degrees (and now at the same 4 degrees heated itself in the open case), and the video card threw a couple more degrees. True, the temperature sensor in the case did not show any decrease. Cold air passes below it, since additional fans take air not from above, but from the middle of the case. General results are reduced to the table. It shows the absolute temperature of the components given to 23 degrees in the room.

Friends, whether I arranged the coolers in PC correctly?

I have the Lian Li O11 Air case, and on the example of its official photo I will show the location of the coolers in my PC.

Below are 2 pcs. AEROCOOL REV 120mm cooers that are marked with red dots and serve air.

To the right side relative to the front is blown by one Aercool Rev 120mm which is also marked with a red dot.

On top almost even straight indicates 3x sectional dropsy, which blows air up from the processor.

I have a fairly hot PC therefore the location of the coolers probably plays a role:

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X GTX 1080 Ti from the hottest.

Correctly. In the Patsansky PC, coolers must suck dust from the floor so that the boy should not vacuum)

Correctly. In PC, the curls must be blown out of PC, so that you can vacuum it later)

Please advance this comment in the top. A person at least normally put cooling

As I understand it, I noted the reds where I installed and went out. Herobosta, to be honest. The air space for blowing is small, it will suck out the whole garbage that settles and generally makes a stream for blowing ineffective. I understand that the MB proceeded from the logic that the hot air rises, but. You have a cold stream limited, the video card overlaps part of the flow to the components, and you are not blowing into the vidyuhi grate, but in its design corps for the most part. T.E. You do not stupidly blow up most PC due to the fact that the video card overlaps them already controversial flow. I am silent about the general behavior of cold and hot air, so as not to breed holivar.

CRC drew like normal guys usually stands. Logic to madness simple.

Now the upper turntables, on the contrary, have gained relevance, the video cards are powerful, the flow, respectively (for example, I tell you 3080), you can heat up directly on cold days from the turntables from above, if the card is 100%, I can’t imagine what it would be without them.

Absolutely agree. Without a video card and describing her cooling system, an empty conversation. BP is not yet in the scheme, it also pumps air, but since it is not, it is not clear where.

Those that are not only useless from below almost in terms of cooling, but the dust will also absorb perfectly

They need them to throw a couple of degrees from Vidyuha, if there are filters no dust

Put the radiator upward, two/three on the muzzle on the blowing and one behind.

You can immediately hide to “positive pressure”

I never understood the jokes to set the dropsy up, the radiator sucks hot air from the video card and VRM. Dotted by blowing must be put in front (or from the side, if the open case is TT Core P3)

So that passing the air through itself, at the exit the hot falls inside the body?

To the right side relative to the front is blown by one Aercool Rev 120mm which is also marked with a red dot.

No need to blow it there. Where did the hot air come from, what to blow? If you rearrange it on a blowing, then at least a tributary of some kind will be a tributary in the upper slot.

He leaned from this flashback from the 90s. Okay then, but in now? This size is absolutely useless, even in so much. I still moved from the end to 200mm fans. They are inaudible, more slowly than small ones, but pump many times more air and do it more silently.

There should be more fans by blowing than blowing, so that there is excessive pressure in the housing. Applies to buildings with dust filters. Or an equal amount on the blowing/blowing. Rearrange the one on the side wall so that it works for a blowing. And better put him on the front side so that it blew respectively in blue shooters in the scheme. And put the lower right in the center so that it was blowing in vidyuhu and not by) or all three down. Note: on blowing you already have 3 fans on a dropsy.

Please, please explain in more detail why? For example, I have three, for blowing one. In the case, discharged air, the air from the room there itself is sucked, the system strives for equilibrium. The temperatures are normal: the percentage in the load is no more than 70, the vidaha is more than 80

The tests show that 2-3 fans (from the bottom up) are enough for the blowing and the 1st back on the blow. Everything else practically does not affect cooling. Holes from above and below are needed for passive air output. Active only breaks the flow. Https: // www.Youtube.COM/Watch?V = Y842HNBL4QC

So do it. Leave 2 from above. BP stands from below? Right under it there is a hole for a separate fan?

Front points on the front panel, not inside

As practice has shown, if the case is normal, then three turntables are saved (two 140 mm on the face, one 140 mm on the ass) in the summer heat 45.

On the muzzle 3 add.Up and three below the cooler do not make sense well, and from above why why? If not heat in the summer. If there is dropsy, then on the side, as in the figure is shown everywhere and everything is set so, but if there is no dropsy, it is better not to clog it with the culers superfluous and so blowing in front and behind the classic.

Technically correctly, but the main thing is that the influx of “fresh” air is. For example, I have a systematic system below (on special. Stand for the computer. Table), from below to “suck” him from nowhere, back and side of the heating battery. Side cover. Fecal glass (add. You won’t insert the fan). At the time of high loading, the video card heats up to 82 degrees. But if the condo is turned on for cooling and the door is closed, the topics inside are reduced by 10 degrees!

I have approximately the same: lower, front, side. Buying, upper, rear. Blowing. Only 8 turntables, 5/3. Logically, cold air drives a warm upstairs.

It’s unclear. Below the left is the red point, and where the power supply is installed? Proceded by water or air? It is important. If air, then there should be more bluntly than to blow in otherwise the vidaha will be fried specifically. Put one on the bottom from the bottom, but you can do it without it because of the dust, it will reduce a degree for Vidyakha, even the 120th will come down. There are two 140s on the front in the front, by blowing one 140 on the rear and you can put three 140 boldly on top of it. Everything is hard to calculate, t.To. BIOS controls each cooler separately or a group of coils. Well, I set up everything separately according to the scheme as described above, but I have dropsy on the pro.Prick. Horn Stricks 3080ti above 75 degrees did not see.

Typical air cooling for a computer

The most common and cheap cooling system used in computers is air, which works using special fans. For a better heat removal and an increase in the heat supply surface, metal radiators are placed on the most important parts. They take a lot of heat, but their area is limited, therefore fans are additionally used. For example, he is on the main processor, in addition to the radiator, as this is one of the most important and hottest chips. For the best effect, at least one additional cooler should be installed in the system unit, which will create constant circulation of the air and remove hot outside. In most computers, especially in the minimum configuration. The so.Called office version, no additional cooling is installed. However, in such models there is still one cooler. In the power supply, which is located in the upper part of the computer. Warm air, rising up from the motherboard and additional devices, with it is blown out. But this design has disadvantages:

• All warm air goes through a power supply, which itself is not weakly warming, which is why its details overheat even faster. Therefore, it fails most often.
• A reduced pressure is created in the computer’s body, and for aligning, its air enters from where it came from nowhere. Through all the cracks. Therefore, a lot of dust quickly accumulates inside, even more worsening heat.
• The stream created is not particularly stable, again, due to the influx of it from all possible holes. Unnecessary and harmful turbuilders are created, greatly reducing the effectiveness of the entire system.
• The air flow is not very strong, for low devices, for example, a video card, clearly insufficient.

Therefore, the installation of additional coolers in the system unit is required. They are inexpensive and you can put them yourself.

Preparation for installation

So, you decided to independently install or replace the cooler on the processor of your computer. The first step is to study the socket (connector) on the motherboard, to which the cooler will be connected. If this is a replacement, see how the cooler is installed on the processor by the manufacturer. Ideally. Take it with you to the store so as not to make a mistake when choosing a new. If not, remember which connectors and fastening are provided on the board.

To do this, you need to climb into the computer.

The opening of the case

In order to get to the processor, you need to remove the system of the system unit. Do not forget to turn it off from the mains before and wait for at least 10 seconds. You need to disconnect and all other cables.

After that, the bolts are unscrewed on the back panel of the systems, which attach the side removable cover.

If there are no bolts, then the cover is fixed with latches.

To remove the side panel, put it back.

Further, before starting to work with the internal components of the computer, you need to get rid of static electricity. If you have a special bracelet, put on. If not, touch something metal.

Checking the connectors

Now that the motherboard is available, you need to check which socket (connector) for connecting the processor cooler is provided. Most often it is indicated by CPU_FAN.

The most common number of connectors (PIN) for processor fans is 4. Four.Context connectors have the following indicators:

The first three wires are in three-pin connectors.

Power and grounding indicators speak for themselves. The third wire transmits a signal about the speed of the impeller. It can be controlled by changing voltage. The fourth sends the signal to the fan chip. Thanks to this, the motherboard itself can adjust the speed of rotation of the blades.

2-PIN devices are practically not used, due to low power and the lack of carcontrol of the impeller revolutions. To do this, you need to embed a special device for manual adjustment.

Three- and four-pine fans are interchangeable. That is, a three-wire cooler can be connected to a 4-pin connector on the board and vice versa. But in both cases, there is no fourth contact, and the motherboard cannot control the revolutions.

A little about the main thing

It will not be a secret for anyone that all components of a personal computer tend to heat up. Some of these elements are very strong. CPU, GPU and motherboard. The most heating details inside the system unit. That is why each user must take care of proper cooling and high.Quality removal of heat flows.

Most often, computers use air cooling, since it is very practical and cheap. The principle of operation of such a mechanism is very simple: the elements give heat to the air around it, and the hot air is blown out of the body of the system unit using fans. Also, quite often PC details are supplied with heat-voltage elements (radiators).

Important! So that the computer is less heated during operation, it will not be superfluous to buy an additional special stand for the laptop.

The importance of the cooling system is simply obvious, but how to correctly install the cooler on the processor and other components of the device?

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As you can see, along with fresh air outside the case, the discharge under the video card will be eager to fill with its own heated exhaust. In the absence of other fans, only a small force of convection can interfere with this, pulling warm air up. Cabinet fans are designed to improve the situation. Either the front panel that is deployed from the side of the front panel, which will reduce the traction resistance in this direction, or blowing off from above, preventing the exhausted air to be delayed:

In this case, another problem arises. Excessive ozurization of the case causes parasitic traction (in the figure it is highlighted in pink), which prevents the fans from performing useful work, reducing their efficiency. It can be reduced if the balance of the influx and extracts is observed (which is not easily feasible in every case), or to eliminate, carefully sealing all the extra holes.

How to remove processor cooler

If you need to carry out repairs, replacement of the processor or apply a new thermal pass, then you always need to remove the installed cooling first. This task is very simple. The user must unscrew the screws or unclench the pins. Before this, you need to turn off the system unit from power and pull out the cpu_fan cord. Read more about the dismantling of the processor cooler in our article.

Today we examined in detail the topic of mounting and removing the processor cooler on latches or screws from the motherboard. Following the above instructions, you can easily perform all the actions yourself, it is important only to do everything carefully and accurately.