How to remove the pulley from the washing machine Zanussi

Independent replacement of the bearings of the Washing machine Zanussi FL1201

During the repair, I relied on information from the forum http: // elremont.ru/forum/viewtopic.PHP?t = 4143 For which many thanks to the site administration and all who responded to questions.

Once, when working as a machine in the squeezing mode, our time.tested Washing machine Zanussi FL1201 began to publish strange loud noises resembling a crunch. From childhood, when I sorted/collected my mega great, I remembered that this sound means the end of the bearing.

Since the repair terms were not critical (the whole family is on vacation, there is not enough underwear), as well as due to financial difficulties, it was decided to repair independently. Looking ahead, I can say that this is a laborious thing for an unprepared person, requires certain skills, straight hands, and tools. If I had all the necessary tools at the right time, all the work of course would be significantly facilitated. These tools are often not easy to get (many companies that trade, for example, are pulled out for bearings, but their work time coincides with mine, I just physically cannot buy).

How To Replace The Suspension On A Washing Machine. Zanussi

A lot was spent time. To a large extent, this was due to the fact that I repaired in the evenings, and it could not be given a lot of time- after ten hours I had to stop all the noise. All repairs took a week. But the money was decently saved, which at that time was critical.

I will immediately give some tips that I always follow when I analyze unfamiliar things:

  • When disassembling, constantly photograph the results of the work, preferably from different angles. I photograph the nodes before disassembly, and after- with the screws. So that the assembly shows what screws in which holes.
  • Follow the quality of the pictures. When repairing a car, I made a serious miscalculation- I took pictures of the iPhone (I have it recently). The old phone gave excellent pictures, and half of the iPhone were of poor quality, problems arose during assembly. Two fasteners did not understand where to put.
  • If you are not confident in your abilities, do not climb. A couple of times I have decently shut up, the lack of experience affected. Repair could be seriously complicated, but I was lucky.
  • Take your time and do not make unnecessary efforts. Flothing of slots, or bent shaft can lead to a non.maintenance of the machine.
  • Mark all the wires and hoses by the felt.tip pen. Can be collected by pictures, but still better mark.

Tools

  • Sprinkles
  • Bits
  • Heads
  • Adapter lengthening bits. I don’t know what is called. A long piece of iron, stuck at one end into a screwdriver with interchangeable nozzles, at the other end, bits/head sticking. Centimeters 25 long.
  • A set of good (durable) hexagons. I had to buy the whole set, although I needed only a key for 6.
  • Electric screwdriver. Extremely desirable. I used the drill, it is not convenient, and in some cases it is simply unacceptable.
  • The spare parts themselves are 2 bearings, an oil seal, a lubricant for an oil seal (sealing oil-35x62x10, bearings-205-25x52x15, bearing-206-30x62x16). Cost 900 r.
  • A pulp for bearings. In my case, he approached the auto parts store, over a hundred. But you have to look in size. It is much easier if there are pullers for all your bearings.
  • WD-40. The usefulness of this thing is difficult to overestimate.

Now briefly repair process. I will dwell on the difficulties that I had to face.

Firstly, it is advisable to take out the car into a room where there are more places. In my case, it was very difficult. It was necessary to remove the platbands, the door to the bathroom, the car door, and at least one assistant was needed for transfer. Therefore, he made disassembly directly in the bathroom, and only tank pulled out.

The disassembly order (I will not paint to the screw):

  • He took off the top cover.
  • He took off the back wall.
  • Disconnected everything that was held by the drum (hoses, wires).
  • Remove the belt from the pulley.
  • Disconnected shock absorbers (from the side of the drum). To do this, I sprayed the WD-40 plastic hairpins, pressed the fixing antennae, pulled out the hairpin

Рис. 1 Отсоединение амортизаторов.

  • I unhooked the manner of Luke. I found a clamp on the front wall of the car, unbuttoned it, then the cuff disconnected without problems.
  • He took off the drum. The springs were unhooked by a fighting girlfriend, holding a drum on weight. Heavy.
  • Remove the engine, Ten, front half.bacon.
  • I unscrewed the pulley. I suffered for a long time, smoked a forum, poured WD, tried to build a bolt with a chisel. Then I bought a set of hexagons (see. point d), spinned stronger, and the bolt was based. He was sitting on the thread. The thread is ordinary, right

Рис. 2 Болт удерживающий шкив

  • Knocked out a drum from the rear half.bacon. It was not easy, a very responsible operation. The half.bacon lies on the side. At first I put a piece of wood under the shaft so as not to spoil it, but the wooder quickly scattered, and the shaft did not grow up. I gave a hammer a couple of times with a hammer, it built to the bearing, then it got up. It was categorically impossible to do this (beat on the shaft with a hammer)! Although it is imperceptibly by eye, but the shaft bent, it was not possible to put a pulley when assembling.

Рис. 3 Задний полубак, хорошо виден вал и отверстие в нем.

  • I read on the forum about the gourmet. I did not find one at home, I took a fan drill for metal (the most suitable hole in the diameter, it seems I had 8 or 9), hugged it with a hammer, broke off the shank. This shank inserted into the hole where the pulley bolt is screwed, fixed with a rag so that he would not fly out and began to peel with a heavy hammer. It’s very good to have glasses, you can damage your eyes. Make sure that the hammer beat strictly along the axis of the punch, otherwise the gap can damage the thread. I damaged her, and this caused serious problems. I was lucky, the thread was slightly deteriorated. Lucky would be a little less. and repairs would be seriously complicated, or maybe it would not be generally impossible. With a groan I knocked out the shaft from the first bearing, then the matter was stalled again. The inner bearing, which actually noisy, fell apart and rusted, could not be knocked out, everything was hanging out and Luftilo. They say that in this case the second person can help- one holds the drum on weight, the second lugs. There was no one to help me, so I broke the partition in a rusty bearing, pulled out balls and removed the rear half.bacon without any problems. This is not a very good way, the remnants of disassembled bearings are hard to remove.
  • Eras all dirt and old grease with rags. Filled WD-40 shaft (with a bearing ring stuck on it) and a half-bacon, with a second ring stuck in it.
  • A day later, he removed the bearing ring from the shaft with the puller. My puller of size came up in a tutel.

Рис. 4 Вал с застрявшим кольцом. На валу болтается старый сальник. Фото съемника к сожалению нет.

Рис. 5 “Собранный подшипник” Фото запорото, но полагаю смысл понятен.

  • He took the coming mandrel (the vulture from the collapsible dumbbells approached me) inserted the bearing in the inner ring (the fart of the dumbbell just rested on the inner ring of the bearing), and knocked out the entire bearing (beat on the griff with a hammer). Similarly acted with the ring of the second bearing

Рис. 6 Гриф гантели с надетым подшипником.

  • The shaft and seats for the bearings were cleaned from lubricants, slightly skipped (600-800-1000-1200 skins), slightly captured a bronze ring with a felt nozzle on a drill with a paste of goi.
  • Corrected the spoiled thread in the hole of the bolt holding the pulley (see. paragraph 10). I just greased the bolt with graphite lubricant, and screwed/twisted a quarter of turning, periodically cleaning the garbage and letting me cool. Cursed himself for curvature.
  • Gently scored new bearings to seats. For mandrel, I used the old rings of the bearings. I laid a chisel across, beat on it. It is important to ensure that the bearing comes in without distortions.
  • At the shaft, at the place of landing of the bearings, he made several melts (the inner bearing climbed too freely, it is not a buzz!).
  • He lubricated the cuff abundantly with grease, and put in the seat, following the bearing (a spring to the sides of the water!).
  • Put the drum. Carefully, so as not to damage the cuff, put on a half.bacon. Through the mandrel he began to beat on the outer bearing. Gradually, the shaft climbed through both bearings, and fell into place.
  • Here I made a mistake again. I did not have a locking ring (although it seemed to be in the design). I collected the drum, and then tried to put on a pulley. The pulley did not fit (. Due to the fact that I damaged the shaft in paragraph 10. ). I did not immediately understand the reason, and tried to plant a pulley, using gross physical strength (hammer). The shaft began to crawl out of the bearing. I had to disassemble the tank again, and return the shaft to its place. Further, a couple of times, declining himself, took up the file. The shaft and skins led and pulled into a divine view, made the pulley so that the pulley was very tight, but climbed into the shaft. Put on the pulley and fixed the bolt.
  • Collected the drum, put the heating element and the engine.
  • Further in the reverse order. I hung a drum in place, attached shock absorbers, connected the wires and hoses. In the places of tires with plastic, I just in case missed the “moment” with glue (except for the hatch cuff). When assembling, be careful and careful, especially when screw the screws into plastic parts. The machine is almost disposable, unnecessary assembly-disability are not particularly provided for by the manufacturer. Tore the threads both to do non.plastic and in metal. Check the connection of all wires ten times. Personally, I finished the assembly at night, forgot to connect the front panel
  • It remains to connect water and drain, level the machine on the floor in level, so that it stands reliably on all 4 legs.
  • Check in work.

Selection of details

Currently, choosing the necessary details is not difficult. In the service center and workshop for repairing household appliances, it is enough to name the brand of your washing machine, and sellers will immediately find the spare part you need. This applies not only to bearings and seals. Ten, pumps, engines and other important functional elements are selected in the same way, requiring replacement.

You can choose the details you need yourself by ordering them through the online store, but for this you need to know the unique serial number of each spare part. It can be found on the surface of the desired element that you want to change.

Training

If the bearing in your washing machine has worn out, a characteristic noise will surely indicate this during the operation of the technique. This can also be determined by staggering the drum. if it has a backlash relative to the tank, then this also indicates the need to replace the mentioned spare parts. It is better not to delay the repair with the repair, since this can lead to the wear of the shaft and the need to change the crosses of the drum, and if the seat on the tank suffers, then the repair will cease to make sense.

To carry out the necessary repair work, a minimum set of tools will be required:

  • flat and cross screwdrivers;
  • set of end heads;
  • pliers or pliers;
  • a hammer;
  • a chisel or a groove;
  • Plumbing silicone.

This set of tools will be enough to repair the washing machine.

Replacing the bearings of the Washing machine Zanussi FJ 903 CV

At my disposal there is a Washing machine Zanussi FJ 903 CV. Before that, I did not think to repair the washing machine.

At the next washing, he began to notice distinct knocks that increased with an increase in the engine speed of the washing machine. I decided not to continue to experience the strength of the mechanism and, turning off, tried to twist the drum manually. There were a distinct rattle and, as, in my opinion, backlash. At first glance. the problem is in the bearing. They have been more than 10 years old. It is even surprising that they were able to work out so much.

There were two options for solving a breakdown: to hand over to the workshop or try to solve the problem yourself. Having phoned service centers, I learned that the cost of repairs would be a third of the cost of a new washing machine. Somehow this fact was not very pleased. it is easier to purchase a new!

Since there was nothing to lose, I decided to independently try to fix it.

Repair

Rummaged on the Internet, read the forums. Collected more or less necessary information. Although the hope was warm that something could just fall off and beat on the drum, but, having opened it, I realized that I had to continue to “get” to the bearing.

Рис. 1 Разобранная стиральная машина

(Примечание редактора. Класть машину на люк или на бок противопоказано! Связано это с тем, что в машине всегда имеются остатки воды и они легко могут попасть на разъемы, блок управления, электродвигатель и т.п. И первое включение после ремонта вполне может оказаться последним. Машину при ремонте можно только наклонять.)

Рис. 2 Ржавые подтеки из подшипникового узла. верный признак того, что сальник и подшипники нуждаются в замене.

It is important when disassembled, take “photo. Notes “, so that, then, when assembling, there was something to remember, where what should be, with what gaps and what clamps.

Honestly, to disassemble the drum, I didn’t really want to. Heavy, bulky. In some cases, help is even necessary.

It is necessary to disconnect everything that approaches the drum: rubber tubes, front gum, belt, engine, connectors, all switch. The sequence of disconnection, as I understand it, does not matter much, since those who have not had something like that before the household will not do this, while others will understand logically. Next, remove from the lower shock absorbers and upper springs.

The ram needs to be cut. We unscrew all the bolts. Gently share the drum.

Unscrew the pulley mounting bolt. We take out the pulley. He “sits” rather tightly.

Рис. 3 Откручиваем болт крепления шкива.

Next, it is necessary to knock out the drum half.

Рис. 5 Для замены подшипников необходимо выбить полуось барабана

In order to knock out the semi.suction and not damage the pulley mounts and the thread, took the shock by an order of magnitude less than the diameter of the bolt, wrapped a place for immersion with island (for fixing the center and for the safety of internal carving) and not strong tapping, knocked out the semi.axis (caliper, drum).

204th bearing remained in the sleeve. To extract it, I took advantage of the same screwdriver, inserting it into the center from the side of the drum and knocked out.

Рис. 6 Разрушенные подшипники и сальник

The outer part of the 205th bearing remained in the sleeve. For two gunses, it was possible to remove it by tapping on the other side, to the edges of the side. Since there are no necessary tools, I used to “tap” “what was at hand”. Used WD-40. The main thing is not to damage the sleeve.

Рис. 7 Полуось барабана без подшипников

Necessary bearings, an oil seal, it was not difficult to purchase.

He removed the rust from the half.axle, “polished”. Also cleaned the inside of the sleeve. He first installed the 204th bearing in the sleeve, then the 205th, and then the oil seal. The internal part of the omentum, as well as the internal working part of the 205th bearing processed lubrication of Litol. When installing bearings, he adhered to the pressing of the bearing in the center of the bearing.

Since the semi.suction as a result of production (rye, cleaning from rye) received a slight decrease in the diameter, it is necessary to make notches in the places of planting bearings (small notches, it is important!).

Then we carefully install a half.tank on the semi.shaft. Distributing the load when tapping on the 204th bearing, without touching the installation place of the pulley.

We carry out the assembly in the reverse order, carefully and accurately connecting everything into its place, so that there were no “spare” parts left.

It took me about everything about everything about a week. I have been dealing with a disassembly device for a long time for a long time. I was engaged only after work, in the evening.

I believe that if there is time and desire, you can try to figure it out yourself! There were no necessary, specialized tools, butWhat was enough!

Preparation for repair

To successfully dismantle, and then install the bearing, you need:

  • Screwdrivers: slotted, cross, hexagonal.
  • Keys Torx.
  • Pliers.
  • Set of wrenches.
  • Hammer and bolt (15-20 cm).
  • Glue or sealant.
  • WD-40 tool for attached details.

Time to prepare a washer. Disconnect it from the network, block the water supply. Disconnect the teen hose and drain water from it. Also drain the remaining water from the drain filter, which is located at the bottom of the front panel, behind the hatch.

ATTENTION! The table is exclusively informative in nature!

In some models of washing machines, there may be different sets of bearings and oil seals, depending on the serial number.

The replacement of bearings refers to work, which the home beginner master will cope without any problems. You just need to stock up on materials, tools with suitable characteristics.

The main thing is to approach work on replacement carefully, not to lose sight of even the slightest details. It is not recommended to save on the acquisition of the bearings themselves for the washing machines Zanussi. To glue the tank, it is forbidden to use ordinary silicone. Only when fulfilling the requirements, the washing machine Zanussi will last a long time. You can contact specialists if there are even the slightest doubts about their own abilities. We must remember about the oil seal. Only a special lubricant must be used for it, intended specifically for washing machines, is not necessary. the company of Zanussi. Then the result will be appropriate.

Preparation for repair

To successfully dismantle, and then install the bearing, you need:

  • Screwdrivers: slotted, cross, hexagonal.
  • Keys Torx.
  • Pliers.
  • Set of wrenches.
  • Hammer and bolt (15-20 cm).
  • Glue or sealant.
  • WD-40 tool for attached details.

Time to prepare a washer. Disconnect it from the network, block the water supply. Disconnect the teen hose and drain water from it. Also drain the remaining water from the drain filter, which is located at the bottom of the front panel, behind the hatch.

The sequence of work

Before disassembly, you should purchase interchangeable parts. Bearing machines of the Washing machine of the zonussi can be found out by the model of smell or look at the element.

Having moved the car from the wall, proceed to disassembly. First of all, covers and panels are removed:

Please note that some bolts in the washing rooms of Zanussi are hidden by plugs.

  • Unlike others see, Zanussi cars have a body consisting of two parts. To remove the back cover, you need to additionally unscrew the screws of the bracket, which fastens the panels on top.
  • Then the lid moves back and removed.

The advantage of this brand is the lack of the need to dismantle the front panel.

Thanks to the device of the case, the back cover opens its large part. This is enough for repair.

  • Remove the drive belt. Pull it on yourself, scrolling through the pulley. So it will be easier.

How to Replace a Belt Tension Pulley on a Zanussi Tumble Dryer

  • You need to unscrew the pulley. To do this, block it in place with a rattle and unscrew the central bolt.
  • Unscrew the screws that fix the counterweight above the pulley. Set it aside.
  • Take a picture of the location of the wires. Remove them.
  • Also disconnect the wiring of the motor, unscrew three fixation screws.
  • Pull the engine out of the case.
  • Ploster lounges the clamp of the drain pipe, disconnect it from the tank.
  • Next, remove the shock absorbers. Put the head on the other side of the rod, pull it with pliers from the front.
  • We move up. Remove the filling pipe, unclench the clamp.
  • Remove the pipe of the press.start of it, which leads to Baku.
  • Before replacing the bearings in the washing machine Zanussi, you need to remove the clamps of the hatch. To do this, bend the sealing rubber, tighten the clamp and light up the screed.

Wonderful! It remains only to pull the tank out, removing from the pendants.

  • Remove the screws along the edges of the tank, which fasten two parts.
  • Remove the upper half.
  • With non.strokes of the hammer on the shaft, disconnect the tank with a drum.
  • Take the drum shaft in order. Clean from pollution, clean it to shine.
  • Turn the back of the tank. Remove the oil seal. To get the bearing, install a bolt on it and tap slightly with a hammer. You need to do this evenly and only on the extreme rim, otherwise damage the part. The same rule acts during installation.

How to change the bearing in the washing machine Zanussi? First of all, clean up the landing site.

Install a new part in the nest, tapping the outer clip.

Lubricate the oil seal and put on top of the bearing.

The car is assembled in the reverse order. Before connecting parts of the tank, grease them at the edges with a sealant, then fasten with bolts. So you can avoid leaks.

We decided to carry out the repair with your own hands? Excellent! Watch the video about the replacement of the bearing in cm Zanussi:

Consider the replacement of the bearing in the washing machine of the Zanussi Aquacycle 1000 model, produced in 2002. All work was carried out at home, with your own hands. Since the repair was carried out in 2021, the age of the washer was approximately 15 liters. Which, in principle, is not bad compared to machines that are made within a later date. With proper operation, the term of use of bearings is 15-20 years. Structurally SMA. Washing machine automato.

SMA “Electrolux” and “Zanussi” are similar, so this approach can be applied to both brands.

These machines use a powerful double bearing of the SKF model BA2D.

Product code for spare parts suppliers: 026298, 12404633657, 255119, 633657, 663667.

For this tank, a special oil seal is used: 40-60/10. Correspondence table of spare parts of popular models.

Preparatory stage

Depending on which faulty node requires replacement or repair, the washing machine of the zonussi will need to be disassembled partially or completely. You must first assemble the necessary tool and prepare the equipment.

The washing machine must be disconnected from the network, water supply and sewage, and then move to a spacious room convenient to perform work. It is recommended to put one or two tables nearby, on which disconnected components will be placed.

To disassemble the washing machine, the owner of the device will need:

In addition to the tool, it is necessary to purchase spare parts at the service center or specialized store, they can also be ordered via the Internet. For the purchase, you need to name the brand and model of the washing machine Zanussi.

During the repair work, it may turn out that other details require replacement. Therefore, it is recommended to first disassemble the equipment, inspect all important nodes and only then go shopping.

Before analyzing the washing machine, Zanussi needs to prepare a phone or camera and take pictures of technology before disconnecting any node, especially before turning off the wiring. This will protect from possible errors during assembly and will help to avoid expensive repairs in case of incorrect actions.

Parsing the front washing machine Zanussi

Typically, the body of washing machines consists of the upper cover, front, rear and two side panels. Sometimes the lower tray is found. The technique of Zanussi is slightly different. instead of four panels, the case is divided into two halves connecting on the sides of the washing machine.

To disassemble the technique, you need to perform the following actions:

  • Unscrew the screws, slightly push back and raise the top cover.
  • There is a metal plate under the lid in the middle, at its edges there is a fastener holding the front and rear panels. It is necessary to twist it.
  • On the sides of the car at the joints of the panels are plastic plugs. They need to be placed and pulled out. There are screws under them, they will need to be unscrewed.
  • Two more screws on some models are located below on the back of the washing machine. They also need to be removed.
  • Now both halves are recorded only by a plastic holder. To remove it, you need to carefully squeeze the latches. Sometimes it can consist of two shelves connected by a screw. Put the fasteners, squeeze the latches, after which the holder rises up and removes to the side.
  • Now you can move and remove to the side of the back half of the case.

Partial disassembly of the washing machine is completed. Now the owner of the device gets access to the motor, pump, heating element, belt and many other nodes for repair or replacement.

In some cases, for example, to replace the bearing, it is necessary to completely disassemble the washing machine Zanussi.

  • First you need to turn off the wiring from the heating element and engine, press facilities and pump, water intake valve. It is recommended to mark the wires or take a picture before disconnecting. If errors in its connection are made during assembly, this may lead to serious consequences.
  • Remove and pull out the temperature sensor.
  • Unscrew the upper counterweight.
  • Turning the pulley, remove the drive belt.
  • Squeeze the clamps, disconnect the nozzles.
  • Unscrew the fastener.
  • With light blows on the pulley and remove the engine.
  • To unscrew the nut between the contacts of the heater, carefully so as not to break off the contacts, pull out the heating element.
  • Unscrew the tank racks.
  • Disconnect and remove the press.start, unclench the clamps, free the bulk pipes and pull them together with the valve of the water bay.
  • Unscrew the drain pump, disconnect from it and remove the hose to the side.
  • Disconnect the pipe in the upper part of the tank.
  • Open the hatch, pull and pull the cuff on yourself. Put the clamp with a screwdriver, find and unclench the latch, remove the clamp.
  • Pull the upper part of the cuff, find a watering pipe, unclench the clamps, then disconnect the part.
  • Unscrew the interference filter.
  • Unscrew two screws, stick your hand into the tank and pull out the hatch lock device.
  • Close the hatch, unscrew the fasteners, remove the hatch.
  • Pull the cuvette for detergents, unscrew the fasteners under it and from above, holding the control panel. Unclench the latches, disconnect the wires, remove and remove it.
  • Remove the tank from the springs and pull.
  • Disconnect the counterweight.
  • Put the water tank down with a hatch down, block the pulley, unscrew the bolt. If it does not give in, grease it WD-40, wait a while, and then repeat the attempt.
  • Take with both hands by the pulley and, rocking to the sides, separate it.
  • If the tank is collapsible, unscrew all the screws and remove the upper part.
  • If it is indispensable, choose the screws with which it will be connected during assembly and drill holes under them along the seam of the tank. Next, cut the tank on the seam.
  • In place of the screw holding the pulley, screw a similar old screw and knock the shaft at right angles at right angles.
  • After that, you can pull the drum from the bottom of the tank.

Now you can disassemble the drum, replace the bearings, inspect and clean the shaft and cross, as well as perform other work. Full disassembly of the washing machine is completed.

The new series of washing machines consists of:

  • The bases of the car from Carborana, which includes the filter case, on which various components (drain pump, circulation pump, module and suspension) are fixed;
  • Carborana tank and a 42.liter stainless steel drum;
  • In the tank of counterweights, one at a time. left and right. Also from the electrical components located on the tank, such as a heating element, thermostat, engine and wires;
  • Housings with 4 vertical surfaces:. The right, left and frontal surfaces are electrogalvanized and covered with thermain. The back panel is electrogalvanized in this performance, the pallet is suspended on 4 springs;
  • The upper part made of polypropylene of the cover on which the filling valve, functional caliper, with a control panel and electric components, as well as a water distributor are located.

E) access to components

1) control panel LCD

Insert the guide ledge into the guide on the upper part.

Disconnecting the control panel gives access to:

2) Electronics

Unscrew 3 screws fixing the electronic unit.

3) speaker

4) filter radio interference

5) analog pressostat

6) filling valve

Remove two clamps from floodplain pipe on a water distributor.

7) water distribution system

Remove the container for detergents.

8) side panel

Unscrew 4 rear fixing screws.

Put the side panel back to free it from the upper mounts and 3 front.

9) front panel

Attention: to simplify, you need to put a stand under the engine.

10) base

11) transport wheel

12) upper cover and handle

Move 2 fixing pin using a screwdriver.

13) table

1 unscrew the screws to the front panel on the left and right.

Pull the upper part back and slightly raise it up.

14) door lock

4 and unlock it to the left by clicking on the lock.

15) Luke’s cuff

Remove the left and right side panels.

Washing machine ZANUSSI T834V test run (spin) 850 rpm

16) left and right counterweights

Unscrew 4 screws fixing counterweight.

Disconnect the pipe of the circulation pump.

Unscrew 4 screws fixing counterweight.

Attention: delete the old silicone fixing the screws. When assembling, wrap the screws treated with new silicone.

17) shock absorber

Remove the left and right side panels.

Pull out the upper and lower shock absorber mounts.

18) bearings

Unscrew the drum screw and securing the pulley.

During the installation, make sure that the round seal is in the correct position. Peel the drum shaft, grease the seal, install the bearing in the tank.

Remark: these bearings are self.tightening, so they should not be tightened too much.

Подшипники с запирающей шайбой для скорости 1000 об/мин

Подшипники без запирающей шайбы для скорости 1000 об/мин

19) tank assembly

Remove the right and left side panels.

Zanussi drum won’t turn: total failure!

Loosen and unscrew 4 screws, fixing the counterweight.

Loosen and unscrew 4 screws, fixing the counterweight.

Disconnect the “Earth” and engine power.

Disconnect the latch of the hose and pull the hose.

20) control electronics of the engine.

Attention: Make sure of the correct connection of wires.

21) engine.

Remove the left and right side panels.

Disconnect the “Earth” and engine power.

22a) drain pump without pallet.

Open the latches of the pump V of the connecting part.

Remove the pump from the side of the back.

22b) drain pump with pallet.

2 seal the lower panel with silicone and fix it with screws.

23) circulation pump

The installation and dismantling of the circulation pump is carried out as indicated in paragraphs 22A and 22.

Attention: During the assembly process, pay attention to the correct installation of the “direct injection” hose.

REPAIR OF HOUSEHOLD APPLIANCES

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We dismantle the upper cover, door of the loading hatch, drain filter lid, drain filter.

Remove the handles of automation or the front panel assembly (with further disassembly, it is necessary to put the smell on the front side and there is a chance of damage). Remove the screed of the hatch cuff and disconnect the cuff from the body.

Next, disassemble the case. The case is disassembled in half (the rear half is dismantled), for this we unscrew the screws on the upper and lower calipers.

Washing car without rear half.corps.

Then we put the smell with the face down and “unscrew” the tank from the body. For this :

We turn off the pulley and take out the wedges of fastening shock absorbers to the tank.

We turn off the clamps of fastening the pipes, dismantle all the nozzles.

We dismantle the heater, remove thermostats (sensors).

Remove the springs of the tank suspension. The tank is “untied”. Next, remove the tank from the case and put the loading hatch up.

We turn away all the screws tightening half of the tank, disassemble the tank and take out the drum.

It is very important to control the condition of the axis of the drum. In the case of severe wear of the axis of the drum or bronze sleeve contacting the seal, further repair does not make sense.

This is either the lack of profitability (high cost of the drum) or a short service life after repair.

After monitoring the shaft state, it is necessary to clean the pollution, and grease the working surfaces.

Next, replacing the bearing, an omentum (rubber.metal cuff).

On many models there is no constructively.

remove, pulley, washing, machine, zanussi

Squeeze the bearing with a screw shooter. Then we clean the pollution, lubricate the seats and press out new parts.

The most important thing is the use of original components. The difference from car is a different depth of the chamfers of the bearings and the force of squeezing the shaft with an oil seal. And further durability in the operation of the washing machine depends on this.

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Pressure the bearing, install a stopper (if any). Pressure a seal with a mandrel. Lubrication of the omentum is required!

Next, install the drum in place, join half the tank and tighten the screws with a force of 15 nm. A sealant between halves is not needed.

Further assembly is not particularly difficult. Everything is done in the reverse order. We insert the tank into the case. We put on the suspension springs, put in place shock absorbers, nozzles, etc.D. When installing the pulley, the bolt is twisted without an antifriction composition with a force of 50-60 nm.

Before installing the electric motor, it is necessary to control the condition of the brushes. To do this, dismantle and control the length of the brushes (at least 10 mm).

The measurement of Ten’s resistance on the case is required. There must be infinity (cliff). Resistance between working contacts 20-30 Ohm.

We control the state of the drive belt. In case of cracking and damage. Change.

Check the drain pump for the lack of backlash and snacking. If necessary, we change.

Check the filter of the bulk valve. In this case, strong pollution and cleaning is necessary.

Connecting electrical wiring does not cause problems, t.to. On all connectors there are keys that prevent the incorrect connection.

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