How to replace the anode in an indirect heating boiler

Why do you need a magnesium anode in a boiler

Owners of boilers for heating water often meet information about the magnesium anode, but, as a rule, only a few know how the anode looks for a boiler, and what role it plays.

Speaking briefly, it can be noted that anti.corrosion protection of the internal surfaces of the tank is considered the paramount task of the electrode from magnesium.

The purpose of the magnesium anode for the water heater

The anode carries out two functions in the heater simultaneously. The first is the protection of the boiler and its main nodes from the corrosion exposure of the water coolant. The second is indirect protection against crocheting, since it loosens the scale.

Hardness salts are deposited on the surface of the heating element: calcium and carbonates. The magnesium anode is not able to stop the cape formation process, but makes strength calcium deposits soft, thus helping to solve the problem of cleaning.

Briefly. why do you need a magnesium rod

Boiler details are made of heterogeneous metals:

The accumulative container in the cut during water heats are exposed to electrochemical corrosion, which occurs through the fault of dissolved oxygen and salts. First of all, the heater is destroyed, then. the walls of the tank.

Buy and replace an unusable electric heater is relatively simple. Another thing is a leaky container that cannot be repaired or changed, the boiler goes into scrap entirely.

To extend the service life of metal parts, a sacrificial anode made of more active metal is included in the domestic drive. magnesium (less often titanium). The principle of operation of cathodic protection is used. corrosion first “eats” the rod, and then it is taken behind the heater and the walls of the tank. This is why it is important to catch the moment and put a new anode in return for the destroyed.

To protect the iron tank from rust, 2 options for cathode protection are used. magnesium or titanium active anode

Note. In the container containers of indirect heating, where copper heat exchangers are installed in the form of coils, a magnesium anode of the corresponding size is also used. The designs of electrical apparatuses and “indirects” are described in detail in separate articles.

What is this device?

For owners of country houses, the answer to the frequently asked question: what is a water heater, does not cause any difficulties. Its appearance resembles a container of a certain volume into which the heating element is mounted. The main task of any such device is to heat water. Several models are known today that can work from different nutrition. They can be included in the outlet, connected to gas supply.

The latter have great power and are used in production. Household systems are most widely used. They differ in small sizes and lower performance. These devices are mounted where there is no hot water supply. These are mainly old areas of cities, villages where there is no centralized water supply.

Water heaters are also divided by the type of fuel:

The most common are gas and electrical devices.

Draining Indirect Water Heater

Corrosion of the water heating element

Why is the case of the heating element underlying corrosion and destroyed? The fact is that Ten in Boyler is equipped with a magnesium anode.

replace, anode, indirect, heating

Without it, a galvanic couple is formed inside the titanium:

Through this anode, all wandering currents flow into the “earth”, gradually taking with it some part of the anode corps. When it is completely destroyed, these currents begin to drain already on the body of the heater.

The growths on Ten are not evenly formed. Because of this, different sections of its copper shell acquire different expansion ratios. The result is a surface tension that breaks the heating shell.

In many service centers, with a capital breaker breaker, you may even refuse a guarantee if there is no check about the timely replacement of the anode.

Ultimately, corrosion becomes through and the working element is burned out.

By the way, with the whole anode, the water from the tank can be slightly smell. When the smell disappears, this can serve as a kind of signing of the electrode.

Modern models have special sensors controlling the state of the anode.

With timely replacement of the anode and mandatory cleaning, the heating element will really last several times longer. The grounding of the case also increases the service life of Ten at least twice.

However, many, for some reason, lose sight of this moment. Meanwhile, with intensive work, it is recommended to clean the boiler at least once a year.

The average heating temperature of this water, its chemical composition

how the fork is stuck into the outlet (where the phase comes, and where zero)

Change the protective anode of an electric boiler

In suspended vertical boilers of this type, the cathode protection rod is installed on the total site with the heater attached to the bottom of the steel vessel. In horizontal models of water heaters, the tane block is attached to the wall of the tank facing down.

Reference. The Termex brand produces universal Optima series devices equally adapted for vertical and horizontal installation. There the flange with the heater and the anode is mounted on the end of the tank. The universal boilers of Gorenje are made differently: the heater stands in one end, the rod. in the other (see the scheme).

To replace the anode element of the boiler with your own hands, prepare the following tool:

  • A set of keys for nuts in size 8 19 mm;
  • magnetic screwdriver for a cross.shaped slot;
  • Passatigi;
  • flashlight. highlight from below and inside the container;
  • sandpaper (clean the heater);
  • hose for emptying the water heater;
  • rags;
  • wide plastic pelvis.

Surely from the entire set you will need only 1 key, but its size will become known after dismantling the cover. The pelvis is necessary for cleaning. you will not want to rake the dirt right on the floor or to the bathroom (if the boiler hangs above it).

Preparatory stage

What needs to be done before disassembling the device:

  • Deange the water heater in any available way. turn off the “automatic”, pull the fork out of the outlet.
  • Crush the supply of cold water to the receiving drive pipe.

When directly connecting the heater to the pipes, repeat the listed actions, but drain the water through a standard safety valve, as the master offers on

With a clogged valve and the absence of cranes at the entrance to the boiler, you will have to use the radical method. unscrew the flexible eyeliner from the apparatus with a gas key. To drain water in portions, for example, using a bucket, periodically close the “cold” pipe with your hand. the stream will be interrupted under the influence of vacuum. Just don’t forget to cool the drive to a comfortable temperature.

Dismantling and cleaning the tank

Now let’s look at how to pull out a tennoe block out of the water heater and replace the protective anode:

    Turn the screw screws with a magnetic screwdriver, remove it and push it to the side.

Advice. In order not to confuse the wires during the assembly process, before turning off, draw a circuit, or better. take a picture with a smartphone camera.

At the end of the disassembly, it is worth using the moment and thoroughly wash the tank from the inside with kitchen products. For rinsing, open the supply of cold water for a short time. the stream will wash off the dirt from the walls and drains into the basin.

The new element is simply screwed into the nest on the site

Best Indirect Water Heaters ��: Your Guide to the Best Options | HVAC Training 101

It remains to screw a new anode for the boiler into the nest of the cleaned block, tighten the rod with the effort of the arm and collect the device in the reverse order. Before turning on, be sure to fill the container. open the water supply and wait until the water runs out of the mixer (remember, we previously opened a “hot” valve?).

How to replace the magnesium rod of the Ariston 50 liters water heater with your own hands, look at

The anode installation procedure is not much different on models of different brands. The algorithm is the same everywhere. it is necessary to empty the vessel, turn off the boiler from the mains and remove the heating unit. Exception. devices with a separate location of the rod, which we will consider further.

Change the protective anode of an electric boiler

In suspended vertical boilers of this type, the cathode protection rod is installed on the total site with the heater attached to the bottom of the steel vessel. In horizontal models of water heaters, the tane block is attached to the wall of the tank facing down.

Reference. The Termex brand produces universal Optima series devices equally adapted for vertical and horizontal installation. There the flange with the heater and the anode is mounted on the end of the tank. The universal boilers of Gorenje are made differently: the heater stands in one end, the rod. in the other (see the scheme).

To replace the anode element of the boiler with your own hands, prepare such a tool:

  • A set of keys for nuts in size 8 19 mm;
  • magnetic screwdriver for a cross.shaped slot;
  • Passatigi;
  • flashlight. highlight from below and inside the container;
  • sandpaper (clean the heater);
  • hose for emptying the water heater;
  • rags;
  • wide plastic pelvis.

Surely from the entire set you will need only 1 key, but its size will become known after dismantling the cover. The pelvis is necessary for cleaning. you will not want to rake the dirt right on the floor or to the bathroom (if the boiler hangs above it).

HOW (AND WHY): CHANGING THE SACRIFICIAL ANODE IN YOUR HOT WATER TANK

Preparatory stage

What needs to be done before disassembling the device:

  • Deange the water heater in any available way. turn off the “automatic”, pull the fork out of the outlet.
  • Crush the supply of cold water to the receiving drive pipe.

When directly connecting the heater to the pipes, repeat the listed actions, but drain the water through a standard safety valve, as the master offers on

With a clogged valve and the absence of cranes at the entrance to the boiler, you will have to use the radical method. unscrew the flexible eyeliner from the apparatus with a gas key. To drain water in portions, for example, using a bucket, periodically close the “cold” pipe with your hand. the stream will be interrupted under the influence of vacuum. Just don’t forget to cool the drive to a comfortable temperature.

Dismantling and cleaning the tank

Now let’s look at how to pull out a tennoe block out of the water heater and replace the protective anode:

Advice. In order not to confuse the wires during the assembly process, before turning off, draw a circuit, or better. take a picture with a smartphone camera.

At the end of the disassembly, it is worth using the moment and thoroughly wash the tank from the inside with kitchen products. For rinsing, open the supply of cold water for a short time. the stream will wash off the dirt from the walls and drains into the basin.

The new element is simply screwed into the nest on the site

It remains to screw a new anode for the boiler into the nest of the cleaned block, tighten the rod with the effort of the arm and collect the device in the reverse order. Before turning on, be sure to fill the container. open the water supply and wait until the water runs out of the mixer (remember, we previously opened a “hot” valve?).

How to replace the magnesium rod of the Ariston 50 liters water heater with your own hands, look at

The anode installation procedure is not much different on models of different brands. The algorithm is the same everywhere. it is necessary to empty the vessel, turn off the boiler from the mains and remove the heating unit. Exception. devices with a separate location of the rod, which we will consider further.

Water drainage and disassembly of the water heater

And so, when you decided that it is still necessary to open, first you turn off the power, pulling the fork from the outlet. Then drain water from the titanium. To do this, overlap the taps of hot and cold water supply.

Unscrew the cold water hose, setting a suitable drain container.

If water does not flow from the removed hose, this indicates an air traffic jam. You need to remove it. To do this, it is enough to slightly loosen the nut at the junction of the hot water pipe to the pipe.

Next, open the safety valve and lower the water through it. If the valve suddenly turned out to be clogged, then you have to twist the valve whole. Water in a continuous stream will go from the boiler.

After draining, completely twist both valves (hot cholegod) from the titanium to open the lower lid and gain access to the heater.

There are modern models where the lower cover goes well and to remove it, it is not necessary to touch the valve. It goes in the form of a plastic insert fixed on several screws.

Disconnect the food wires, after remembering or marking it with a marker, which is connected to. Better yet, draw a circuit. As a rule, all wires are colored and it will be easy to do. Otherwise you can get confused in such a heap of wiring.

After that, unscrew the nuts or screws of the heater himself around the perimeter.

You can unscrew in any sequence, but it is necessary to tighten them as well as the head of an engine or wheel on a car, that is, a cross cross.

If you immediately fasten some nut to the stop, this will lead to a curvature of the flange and there will be no necessary fit density. Therefore, the laying will not hold and there will be a leak.

Gently pull out the warming element out. He will be all in rust, and from the magnesium anode, except for a thin burnt piece of iron, there can be nothing at all.

How the water heater is arranged (boiler)

Since the inner surface of the tank capacity is a place where there is a large risk of pathogens, manufacturers make the walls of the tank of stainless steel or with a titanium coating. Fiberglass is the most inexpensive coating, but it is quickly covered with microscopic cracks.

The boiler is a hermetic tank, inside which there are elements necessary for heating water and ensuring the durable and safe operation of the device

Heating elements (heating elements) are divided into:

    wet (located directly in the water). Wet heating elements are hollow structures, inside of which a heating spiral is located. The space of the heater around the spiral is filled with sand or magnesium oxide, that is, a substance with a high degree of thermal conductivity;

Wet heating elements are in water and heat it due to heat transfer from their surface with direct contact

Dry Ten is in a special dielectric flask and transfers its heat to the water through its body

The flange heater is inserted into a special niche on the boiler housing and pressed against it using a nut that wounds on a threaded hairpin

The warden heater is screwed into a special cartridge on the water heater case

Usually heating elements are made of steel or copper.

Features of the operation of water heating devices of different types

All water heating devices are divided into:

The word “boiler” translates as “boiler”. And this means that this type of device can include not only the heating heaters, but also various flow structures.

Best Indirect Water Heaters ��: Your Guide to the Best Options | HVAC Training 101

Electric boilers

Electric boilers are the most popular types of water heating devices that consist of a tank protected by a layer of thermal insulation (for example, polyurethane foam) and closed by the upper casing.

The electric heating element, which is located at the bottom of the tank, heats the water to a certain temperature set on the thermostat. Water heating in all electric water heaters is produced up to 75 ° C. If the water is not taken, then the boiler device supports the required temperature in turning on and off the heater. The heating element is equipped with special protection against random overheating, so it itself will be disconnected when the water heats up with the maximum temperature.

The optimum heating temperature for a boiler is 55 ° C, since it is in this mode that the device can provide the necessary volume of water for the hot water and save electricity.

The fence occurs through the pipe, which is removed from the upper part of the tank, where the hottest water is located. Cold water is supplied through the lower part of the device where the heater is located. The protection of the metal tank from corrosion is carried out by the magnesium anode. Over time it is destroyed, so it must be changed every 2 or 3 years.

Despite the fact that the heated water drainage fitting is located below in most models of boilers, the heated water is taken from the upper part through the tube, which passes inside the tank

Boilers of indirect heating

Indirect heating boilers do not produce thermal energy themselves, but heat the water for the hot water from the coil, according to which the coolant flows.

Inside the boiler of indirect heating is a spiral heat exchanger, along which the coolant passes from the heating system, the water in the tank is heated due to the heat given to it through the walls of the snake

The flow of cold water occurs through the lower part of the capacity of the heating device, and its output through the upper. Such a boiler can easily provide a high volume of hot water, therefore it is installed in large houses.

The principle of operation of an indirect type water heater is to exchange thermal energy between liquid media with different temperatures. In order for water to flow from the tap with a temperature of 55 ° C, it is necessary to heat the boiler to 80 ° C. Such devices heat up water for quite some time, so this fact must be taken into account when choosing. Like electric models, they are equipped with a protective anode, and more expensive options have two coils, through one of which water from the boiler flows, and the second is connected to another source of heat energy.

Indirect heating boilers can be floor and wall, and are also offered jointly with double.circuit gas boilers. Some models of water heaters have additional electric heaters that accelerate the process of water heating if necessary.

In some models of indirect heating boilers, you can install an electric heating element and turn it on if it is necessary to quickly heat the water

Types of breakdowns of boilers and their possible reasons

There are many reasons for the breakdown breakdown, most of which can be eliminated with your own hands.

  • The boiler does not heat the water. The cause may be a breakdown of the heating element or electrical system of the device. If the water warms up for a very long time, then a large layer of salt scale has accumulated on Ten, which must be removed. Also, scale can cause too frequently turning on or disconnecting the device.
  • Water overheats. The reason may be the failure of the thermostat.

The thermostat has a special temperature sensor and automatically turns off the heating element when heating water to a given limit

Often the cause of the tank from the tank is the wear of the rubber gasket through which the Ten flange is pressed against the body

Error indication is often the result of the failure of the electronic module, which is usually easier to replace

The pressure regulator supports water pressure within the limits for which the boiler is designed

If a large layer of scale forms on Ten, it begins to work with increased intensity and quickly burns out

Search and elimination of faults in the boiler

In order to determine the cause of the majority of breakdowns in the water heater, it is necessary to turn it off the network, drain the water and dismantle it. Then unscrew and remove the lid that hides the heater and other nodes of the device. The boilers that are placed vertically, this cover is located below, and in horizontal ones on the left. Compact devices have a lid in front.

    At first, fastons are removed from the heater and thermostat and the mounts are unscrewed.

After removing the lid, it is necessary to disconnect the fastons (terminals) of nutrition and unscrew the fasteners of the Ten flange

Thermal attires cannot be cut, otherwise you have to change the entire boiler

After that, you can diagnose the breakdown of the device.

How to change the heating element in the boiler and clean it

Most often becomes unusable of the heater. To check its performance, a tester is required.

  • To begin with, we calculate the resistance of the element according to the formula r = u 2 /r, where u = 220 volts, and p. the nominal power of the heating element indicated in the passport.
  • Select the resistance scale (OM) and touch the probes to the two contacts of the heating element for measuring the contacts:
  • If the device shows “0”, “1” or infinity, it means that the heater failed, as there was a short circuit or a cliff in the chain. In this case, a replacement of the element is necessary;

If the tester shows the zero value or infinity, the heater failed

If the measured Ten resistance is close to the calculated, then the heating element is good

In order to remove the heater, it is necessary to unscrew all the nuts of its fastening

If there was no tester at hand, you can check the heater for the operation using the control bulb of an electrician. To do this, for the first contact of the element, we serve “0” from the network, and on the second phase through this lamp. If the light is light up, there is no cliff in the chain.

If the boiler is very slowly or poorly heated by water and makes noise during operation, and the tester shows that everything is fine with Ten, then it is necessary to clean it from scale. This is necessary:

    Take out the heating element and clean it using special tools.

All the scale formed on the heater must be removed

The top layer of scale can be carefully removed with a not very sharp knife

After that, rinse the tank well from the crumbling scale and insert the heater back.

Before installing the heater, the tank must be thoroughly washed and cleaned of traces of scale

Dry Ten practically does not burn out, but if this happens, then it is extracted quite simply. It is necessary to unscrew the nuts and bolts at the bottom of the boiler and remove the burned heating element. Then insert a new device and fasten it back.

How to clean a boiler, replace the anode and a temperature sensor

Before the work, you need to turn off the boiler from the network. The sequence of procedures is as follows:

    Remove the lid and disconnect the wiring or just turn it out of the outlet. If the boiler has a machine gun, then you need to turn it off.

A magnesium anode for a boiler. why is it needed, the principle of operation, replacement

About the anode in the water heater, its properties and the principle of work need to know everything because it affects the service life. If you do not change it, it does not affect the duration of the boiler. In the article, the master plumber will tell you what it is, what is it for and how to make a replacement.

What is a magnesium anode, how it works

The anode is a grayish rod with a smooth surface. Usually performed in the form of a thin cylindrical element with a threaded metal hairpin at one end. The length of such a rod with magnesium coating, depending on the boiler model, can be from 14 to 25 millimeters.

The principle of operation of the component is as follows. The anode is screwed with a hairpin into the threaded hole of the flange of the heating element (Ten), after which this pair is placed inside the boiler housing. After some time of operation, the surface of the magnesium anode ceases to be smooth. She takes the form of beaten corrosion. In this way, it protects the walls of the boiler from destruction. If you change the part in time, then the inside of the water heating tank will remain a whole for many years.

Thus, the anode is an expenditure component. In the scientific language, all the oxidative processes occurring with multiple cycles of heating of the water inside the device, in the presence of a magnesium rod, affect it, but not on the walls of the tank. This is due to the fact that it is the rod that has a lower electrochemical potential.

How to determine whether the detail is subject to replacement

Visually and by ear, in the process of using the boiler, to determine whether the time has come to change the magnesium anode installed inside, it is possible according to the following signs:

  • The boiler began to heat up much longer;
  • The device is often turned off and re.swept;
  • Hot water flowing from the tap has become muddy, with an unpleasant odor;
  • Noise is heard during the water heating tank.

If at least one of the above signs is present, you should think about replacing the magnesium anode. an inexpensive consumable element that can act as a “victim”.

The process of replacing the magnesium anode in the boiler is quite simple. The old anode can extract from the water heating device and install a new one in its place, even without special skills. But when conducting this procedure, it should be borne in mind that each manufacturer has its own modification, respectively, it is worth buying only an original component. Therefore, it is better to give preference to a service center or a specialized outlet in this regard.If you do not know how to replace the old one, take it to the store. The part needs to be selected according to the diameter of the thread. For example, in the Thermex Flat plus model. M4.

The procedure consists of several intermediate stages. At the first step, you need to turn off the boiler from the electric network and drain the entire liquid from it. The check valve will help accelerate the implementation of this procedure, but it will be reasonable to connect the hose in order not to spray everything around.

In the next step, unscrew the casing, which is located at the bottom of the tank. After that, the thermal sensor and flange will be prominent. The last two are also subject to dismantling.

Further actions: TEN is stretched through light staggering. Due to the fact that the heating element is covered with salt deposits, some difficulties may occur at this stage, so it is necessary to act carefully in order to avoid damage to the part.

The next step is the dismantling of the anode that has served its term, which is located next to the heating element. Often only an empty pin is found, which is a bright demonstration of the destruction of magnesium. In any case, the detail must be removed from the nest.

Before installing a new magnesium anode, you need to perform such a procedure as removal with Ten Nakipi. For these purposes, you can use the usual screwdriver.

If the plaque is too hard and it is not possible to remove it mechanically, citric acid will be a good option.

  • In 1 liter of pure water, 40-50 grams of citric acid dissolve;
  • In approximately 48 hours, a heating element is placed in the resulting mixture;
  • Two days later, the heater is removed, washed.

In the last step after performing all the above actions, the boiler is collected back to working condition. The next step is to check the device for the correctness of functioning.

When the water heater is ready to work again, the tap opens, the tank is filled with cold water. In this case, the crane from which the hot liquid flows should remain open. When water flows from it, this will mean that the boiler is filled. It is not necessary to close the “hot” tap immediately: it is necessary to give the tank and wash the pipes, get rid of dirty fluid.

When the water flowing from the mixer becomes completely clean, the crane closes. After that, the boiler should be settled for at least 30 minutes. This method will be able to get rid of condensate accumulated on all surfaces. It is also necessary to make sure that there are no leaks.

The principle of the anode

When the water is heated, the oxygen dissolved in it begins to actively be released. Oxygen is a powerful oxidizing agent, so it actively interacts with the metal case and parts of the water heater, oxidizing them. This causes corrosion and premature exit from the system of water heating heating.

Dvivalent magnesium has greater chemical activity than three.sided iron. Therefore, it reacts oxidation with free oxygen more actively than iron, thus protecting the walls of the tank body and the water heating element from the formation of rust.

The water entering the water supply contains bicarbonates CA and Mg. They are soluble in water, therefore, dissociate on Catyes Ca 2. Mg 2 and anions NSO3.

Magnesium, which is covered with the steel rod of the anode, interacts with water and increases the number of cations connecting the nSO3 anions.

As a result of the reaction, a large amount of low.soluble mgco3 salts is formed and the formation of insoluble Calcium carbonate Saso3 is significantly reduced. The formed scale has a loose structure and is easily removed from the water heating element during its operation and settles on the bottom of the boiler.

The purpose and functions of the magnesium rod in the boiler

The coating of a steel rod with a layer of magnesium does not affect the cost of the water heater, this is the most affordable and cheap material. It is installed in close proximity to the water heating element.

Magnesium has a greater potential difference than copper or aluminum heating. Due to this, the particles of the resulting salts settle on its surface, leaving a clean and untouched heating spiral. Salt settled with an unevenly loose, porous layer that is easily cleaned with a sharp object.

This allows you to increase the service life of an expensive water heating element.

  • During the operation of the boiler, microcracks, scratches are formed on its case, and chips of paint occur as a result of mechanical exposure.
  • Free magnesium cation are actively interacting with oxygen dissolved in water.
  • Thus, corrosion occurs on a magnesium rod, protecting the metal case and internal parts from damage.

The sacrificial anode reduces the hardness of the water, reduces the amount of salts entering the hot water supply system. This reduces their deposition on pipes, inside the cranes and increases their service life.

General rules

According to the rules, the closer the equipment is to the boiler, the more efficiently the heat exchange occurs from the heating system.

The installation of the boiler must comply with the recommendations:

So that the circulation point is in the center of the tank, the flow of cold water should be supplied through the lower pipe, and the fence is hot through the upper. This is a prerequisite for the quality of the device.

The movement of hot water should be carried out along the coil, from top to bottom.

Compliance with these simple recommendations guarantees the correct operation of all elements that perform an important function.

Do not forget about the installation of ball valves. Thanks to them, it is possible to turn off elements such as a three.way valve, circulation pump and others for maintenance.

Frequent errors

In the process of installing the device, some difficulties may occur, and therefore errors.

  • Broiler and boiler install as close to each other as possible. Be sure to check the nozzles, how true they are.
  • Correctly connect the pipeline with the coolant.
  • Competently installing the circulation pump.

Installation of equipment requires proper and competent work. This guarantees uninterrupted operation of the device and timely water supply.

How to replace a magnesium anode with your own hands

Consider how to unscrew the details yourself:

  • Disconnect the technique from the network. Turn off the machine if contacts are made to it.
  • Drain the water. The fastest to do this through the check valve. Cross the water on the main valve, unscrew the water hoses and twist the check valve.
  • In Gorenje models, the magnesium part is located on top. In order not to remove the boiler from the wall, just give the top cover. If this is not possible due to proximity to the ceiling, you will have to remove the case.
  • In other models, you need to remove the lower cover. To do this, unscrew the fasteners and remove the latches.
  • If the heater is fixed to the flange, unscrew the nuts and screws, pull out the flange. Sometimes the heater must first be pushed inward, and then get out of the tank.

How to choose a new element? If you do not know how to replace the old one, take it to the store. The part needs to be selected according to the diameter of the thread. For example, in the Thermex Flat plus model. M4.

Install the installation in the reverse order.

How to extend the service life of a water heater

Follow the work of the boiler in order to detect and eliminate the problem in time:

  • When watering water, a hissing sound is heard? So, the heater is covered with a cape. You need to clean it.
  • It is advisable to install water filters. They reduce the concentration of impurities that subsequently settle on the details.
  • Sometimes look under the lid of the case to check the condition of the anode. If he was half worn out, soon you will need a replacement.
  • If you removed the old one, but did not have time to install a new element, do not launch the equipment. Buying a new element will cost cheaper than buying a new boiler.
  • Frequent operation leads to the rapid formation of scale. Therefore, it is recommended to clean the tank once a year.

Decided on an independent replacement? Be sure to turn off the heater from the network and drain the water. Then proceed to repair. A video about replacing this detail in the boiler will help you:

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