How to close the battery with drywall. Step.By.Step guide for the installation of the box
The general technology for assembling frames consists of three main stages of work:
INSTALLING A RADIATOR ON A PLASTERBOARD WALL. How to dress and install a radiator using pig tails
Making the frame
The pipes box is two mutually perpendicular planes attached to the wall and to the floor (for horizontal wiring) or to two adjacent walls (for a vertical riser). Therefore, the frame is also made of two bars perpendicular to each other, fixed on the corresponding surfaces of the walls or floor. The procedure for assembling the frame is due to the configuration of the room and the features of the location of the pipelines.
First, it is necessary to attach the main guides to the supporting surfaces of the walls or floor, to which the rack elements connected by the rib from another main profile will be attached. They are connected using special self.Tapping screws, in the sections of the joint the side shelves are cut by scissors for the metal and bend for a denser connection of the elements. If wooden bars are used, first collect two grilles, which are then attached to the wall with one side, and the other to the floor (or adjacent wall, if you need to close the riser).
Surfaces are freed from foreign objects (hooks, hangers, mirrors, etc.P.).
Thorough marking of the frame is carried out. The position of all lines is controlled by the construction level or plumb line. The distance to the edge of the frame is determined by the area where the pipes are further protruded from the walls, plus 5 cm per width of guides or wooden bars.
With the help of an electric drill or a peorator, put on a nests to install dowels. The step of installation of fasteners is determined by the size and location of the box, but at least 0.7 m.
On the lateral walls of the metal main guides, cuts are made in the places where the crossbars are joined.
The main guides are installed on the walls and fixed with self.Tapping screws.
Install pre.Cut crosses.
Both sides of the lattice are connected by an outer edge from the main profile, in which incisions are made in advance for fastening crosseships.
Installation must be done as firmly and accurately as possible. It must be borne in mind that any error made during the assembly of the frame will subsequently affect the appearance of the box. Skews will become noticeable when laying a tile or wall panels having clear geometric shapes.
Metal screws with a tip under the drill
Installation of drywall
After completing the assembly of the frame, they begin to skin its drywall. First of all, it is necessary to cut pieces of material corresponding to the sides of the box. It should be noted that the first will exactly repeat the shape of the frame, and the width of the other will increase to the thickness of the sheet. It is most correct to cut off and immediately attach one of the pieces (either horizontal or one on which there are no revision hatches) to measure the size of the second piece without errors.
For cutting drywall, you use hand hacksaw with small teeth and a small divorce, an electrician, sometimes an ordinary stationery knife. They are cut a sheet in a ruler, torn on a flat edge of the table and finally cut off along the fault line.
The resulting edge is rarely perfectly flat, so it is additionally treated with a shirt or special grater. During cutting and processing, a large amount of gypsum dust rises, so you should work in protective glasses and respirator. In addition, it is impossible to work in rooms where computers are installed. Fine gypsum dust in a fatal way acts on fans, completely depriving them of their performance, jamming the bearings.
The material to the frame is mounted on phosphate gypsum plasters. They are black with a small thread pitch. You can also use the usual wood screws, but you have to be more careful at the final stage. They have more threads, so the hat can go too deep into the surface of the GCL. The distance between neighboring fasteners is recommended to be made in the range of 10-15 cm.
A nest for installing an audit hatch or a window for removing meters are cut through the place. First mark the surface and drill holes in the corners. Then a hole is cut out of them by marking, the dimensions of which correspond to the size of the hatch.
Several simple solutions close the battery
- Lay a large number of smaller holes. The diameter is less than the centimeter is unprofitable: heat will pass with difficulty, and the holes themselves will quickly clog with dust and will need to clean.
- Make a kind of windows in the box and insert plastic ventilation grilles into them, which are used in the bathroom and in the kitchen.
- GCL is cut in precise sizes. For this they use a clerical knife.
- Elements are screwed on profiles with self-tapping screws with a frequency of 3-4 pieces per linear meter. You need to sink hats by 1 millimeter so that they become flush with a sheet, but do not break the cardboard coating.
The difference between the casing of the box and, say, there is only one niche: to close the battery with drywall, but not lose the overwhelming amount of heat it produced, it is necessary to drill ventilation holes in the sheets. They can be done with a drill with a nozzle-collar. Recommended diameter of the hole. 5 cm, but such “holes may not look too attractive. As an alternative, you can choose one of two directions: the one who is going to make a box for the battery with your own hands must first pay attention to the windowsill over it.
He can cover the design from above entirely, or even a little protruding behind its edges. This is required not only by the aesthetic side of the matter, but also by practical: the box sticking out from under the windowsill will constantly be touched by homemade, and therefore the construction life will be reduced. To embody the idea, we will need: in fact there is a way out!
It is necessary to make a gypsum cardboard box that will close from the eyes the entire problematic place from floor to window sill. This option of solving the problem has a huge plus. As a result, it will be very beautiful, including due to the presence of an overhead grate, which I recommend selecting to the color of furniture.
- Pens with a drill for 6 mm
- Electric screwdriver
- Scissors for metal
- The level is straight
- Roulette and pencil
- Chancellery knife with interchangeable blades
The radiator, which some are not embarrassed to compare with the log in the eye, performs the most important function in the apartment
, And one must not forget about it, because it is impossible to survive the harsh winter without proper heating. That is why all attempts to decorate the radiator should not go beyond common sense. It should be noted that the last point is the most popular today. At the same time, it cannot be considered as the most ideal. The fact is that the creation of a whole box is a rather controversial solution.
After all, with any breakdown, leak. You will have to disassemble it completely, which is very inconvenient.
Algorithm for the stages of work
The construction of the box is rational if the battery is placed on the wall. It is possible to build it with your own hands from drywall quite quickly. This technique is most advantageous, since only the radiator is hidden, and the thermal load is not reduced. The dimensions of the box are associated with the geometry of the battery. Fundamentally take into account the following parameters. All edges of the structure should be located further from the heater by approximately 150 mm.
Standard technological stages of the manufacture of drywall box:
- Before closing the battery, the installation site is marked on the walls and sexual flooring near the radiator with lines drawing;
- Set the guide profile along the marked line; fix the profile;
- Perform installation of corner racks;
- Install the binding jumpers between the profiles;
- They adjust and finally strengthen iron structures;
- Install blanks made of drywall and fix them on profiles.
Tools and materials
First, before hiding the battery, you need to prepare, especially the master, you will have to tinker with cast.Iron devices. First prepare the desired tools:
- Shock drill or peorator;
- Electric screwdriver;
- Lever scissors for metal;
- Metal jigsaw;
- The construction knife reinforced;
- Construction level;
- A bar for grinding paper 100×230 mm, with a screw clamp and sandpaper; Modeling;
- Tank and set of skills;
- Roulette and pencil.
- Drywall, also known as GCL according to GOST 12997.84;
- A penetration corner;
- Metal profile;
- Dowel under a self.Tapping screw;
- Primer and putty.
Marking and drawings
Before building a drywall protective panel, they independently perform a design drawing or select, a suitable model on the Internet. Pre.Determine how the structure of the structure will be placed. Hanging or standing on the floor on the legs. In the latter version, 3 main lines are measured and performed. 2 side and one front.
In the first version, they measure the interval from the floor. A fishing line for a trimmer is fixed on the wall and control it according to the level. Subsequently make markings along the walls. The result should be a quadrangle indicating the edges of the attachment of the future installation.
Before starting the placement of the protective frame, a paramount business is the implementation of the audit of the heating system. It will be necessary to control the installation zones, examine the battery on the likelihood of leakage or blockage. Only after thorough prevention and replacement of problem areas are accepted to direct installation of a protective structure.
To build a system, outwardly the battery must be impeccably prepared. Old paint is cleaned from it, mud deposits are removed and a primer is performed. If the wall on which the radiator is located has significant irregularities on the surface, then it should be placed and darkened, since it will be unrealistic to do it later. Further, on the floor, marking the case is made so that it protrudes 150 mm from the front side from the front side from the battery.
Installation of the frame
An iron profile is used to install the box. Installation methodology:
- The guide profile guides are applied to the planned lines on the wall, which are cut off at the required height in advance.
- Drill a number of holes for fasteners at pre.Planned points with a drill.
- Dublegvygvo is inserted into the holes.
- The profile is placed on the fastening zones and fixed with screws.
- Similarly, put all the components of the iron frame, connecting them with mounting elements.
- Between the profile and the surface, the styling of a special shock.Absorbing material should be laid.
Thus, you get an iron box that is quite reliably fixed to the base. It will be preferable to immediately block the heating pipelines, for the greatest comfort, develop a removable modification.
Hypsum cardboard mount
The following action will become quite logical. The order is as follows:
- In order to perform the decorative design of the radiator in the room, they first mark the drywall, using a hacksaw/electric one, cut it into the necessary details. Minor areas may be easy to cut with a special knife.
- Simultaneously calculate the space under protection. It can be a variety of values, usually 600×900 mm and 600×1200 mm are used.
- It is more reliable to measure the preferred option for the inner box. Several millimeters are removed from the final result.
- For the greatest clarity, each separate cut area is indicated from the wrong side.
- Close the desired zones with components.
- A screws are used for this stage. They are injected in a 15 cm pitch. On the working plane.
Preliminary processing of the case is performed according to the following method:
- The cracks formed between the established material are covered with putty;
- She is also neatly applied to the hats of screws;
- After the seams dried up, absolutely the entire plane of 2 times is putty;
- At the end of the drying of the structure, the treated surface must be fucked.
At this stage, preliminary processing of the plasterboard installation is performed. The final stage of finishing work occurs. It is that the manufactured design is completely treated with putty.
- The seams are slightly extended, for this stage, a general stability is suitable.
- The finished parts are prompted.
- On the corners lay the oeinated angles.
- The external gaps are lubricated with a mixture and put a matrix-serp.
- The final layer of putty is neatly applied to the plane.
- A device that has a peculiar end is formed in which the protective screen is introduced.
- Similarly, it turns out to decorate the arbitrary heating device.
- You can perform a sufficiently deep case, which can be applied to preserve unnecessary things.
Installation of the structure
The most difficult stages of resolving the issue of how to close the heating battery and not to deprive the heat room, were left behind. If everything is prepared, installation is a simple procedure.
The mounting of drywall is carried out according to the following methodology:
- A sheet of material is attached to a metal base;
- A drawing instrument marks the place of cutting. This is how the material is marked on the necessary pieces;
- The prepared part is attached to the corresponding part of the frame and mounted with a screw.
The step of the screws when attaching the material in the box for the battery is 10-15 cm, the example of the location of the mounting elements can be viewed in the photo above.
It is better to prepare and fix one part of the material, if you cook everything at once, you can make a mistake due to the corners protruding in some places.
Note! When screwing a screw, it is important to feel the measure. If you put the mounting element too deep, you can damage the front side of the drywall.
The removable screen should close the radiator for ventilation and transfer of heat to the room. The first part of it, internal, is attached to the metal even before working with drywall. Then the main material is arranged, and the removable, external, part of the screen is put on the last step.
Step.By.Step instructions for installation work
Preparation of the base
For the construction of the structure, the base must be correctly prepared. The old coating is removed from the surface, remove dirt and dust, primed.
If the wall on which the battery is located has significant irregularities, then it should be made even using gypsum plaster. Then it is desirable to put the surface, since it will be impossible to do this after the construction of the structure.
Marking and drawings
If it is supposed to make a soaring box to mask the battery, then:
- We measure out the desired distance from the bottom of the radiator and draw a straight line in terms of level. The bottom of the box.
- Draw the side lines, using a building corner for this. It is important not to forget about 15 centimeters that should be between the edge of the batteries and the beginning of the structure.
- The upper edges of the perpendicular lines are connected by level.
- We conduct an audit of all direct in level.
If the box standing on the floor is mounted on the floor, then the marking begins from the upper edge of the battery, and perpendicular lines are diverted from top to bottom. You can see how to do this in the photo.
In addition, the box is marking on the floor so that the end of the box on the front side protrudes 15 cm relative to the radiator.
In some apartments, heating radiators are installed in niches, which developers provide under the windows. In this situation, only the second way of building the box is suitable.
Many owners of apartments and houses try to sew heating batteries and pipes with drywall. In the latter case, some preliminary work will need to be done. Firstly, you should prepare materials, for example, metal profiles, rack and guides. Not only drywall sheets, but also dowels, as well as screws will be needed.
Prepare some tools, namely:
If the pipes are made of metal, their surface is cleaned from old paint before the sheathing, and communications are red. After lining to the pipes, access will be difficult, in some cases it becomes impossible at all.
Compliance with engineering standards and a list of the necessary tool
Drywall is able to withstand colossal longitudinal loads, but it is not adapted to transverse effects. The slightest pressure can lead to a violation of the integrity of the sheet, its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
In order to avoid such misunderstandings, plasterboard partitions try not to overload, and if necessary, they are strengthened by the structure. Based on this, the installation of elements of the heating system should think over at the stage of creating the project, and not after the formation of the structure.
In practice, not everyone thinks out in advance how the heating radiator will be mounted. The methodology for fixing heating devices varies depending on their design, connection method and total mass.
The location of the radiator in a niche of drywall
Classical cast.Iron or steel battery requires the creation of a system of suspensions that will take on the entire weight of the system. Modern bimetallic models with a plastic supply may well be fixed on top of a plasterboard base. However, for greater reliability, it is better to use special brackets screwing into the main wall. Installation of a heating radiator is a rather difficult task, for the implementation of which the following tools will be needed:
With the help of these tools, you can install the radiator. At the same time, the main complexity of installation work is by no means the installation process itself, but to bring communications, filling out the system and its fragmentation. The performance of these tasks takes the most time and requires remarkable efforts. In addition, certain requirements are put forward to the established battery, the implementation of which affects its functionality. They look as follows:
Existing options for installing heating radiators
- The distance to the windowsill is at least 6–10 cm;
- The height from the floor should be at least 10-15 cm;
- The distance from the wall should be at least 2-3 cm;
- On both sides, the radiator should be as open as possible.
Compliance with such requirements makes it possible not only to increase the temperature in the room, but also allows you to reduce heating costs. However, only those who have individual heating can feel similar advantages or a heat meter is installed in the apartment.
How to hang radiators and batteries for drywall
Tip: warm air from the radiator installed under the window rises up and this creates transparent thermal insulation, not allowing cold flows from the glass to penetrate deep into the room.
Therefore, a gypsum plastic box on the heating battery should not overlap it on top, because this is the main way of heat transfer.
But even if there is an extreme need for this, then still in the upper plane of the box you need to make some holes.
This option is most common. It is quite convenient to make a box during wall decoration with drywall, then you can immediately create a frame for it, which will be included in the overall structure.
How To Hang A Radiator On Plasterboard
Stage One: Preparation
Before hiding the heating radiator, it must be prepared. It is very convenient when modern batteries are used, but with cast iron. You will have to tinker.
- With the help of an iron brush, remove the old layer of paint.
- The surface is degreased.
- Check the joints, nuts and seams. If necessary. Pull up or change.
- Stain the surface with paints for metal with a high temperature threshold.
Usually, through the holes in the design that closing the battery, it is nevertheless partially visible, so you cannot ignore the decoration of the device itself prepare the necessary tool:
- A bar with a drill or a shock drill with drills;
- Electric screwdriver, scissors for metal or jigsaw;
- Construction knife and level;
- Sandpaper with bar;
- Capacity and set of skills;
- Ruler (roulette) and pencil.
- Plasterboard slabs.
- Metallic profile.
- The grid is Serpyanka.
- Self.Tapping and dowels.
Materials and tools necessary for the device of a gypsum cardboard box
On a note! Sewing the battery with drywall is not as easy as it seems. At least minimum experience with a metal profile and GKL slabs is needed.
Stage second: marking
They determine how the box will look. Hanging in the air or standing on the floor:
- Когда короб стыкуется с половым покрытием, то сразу замеряют и отмечают три основных линии – две боковые и лицевую.
- If it hangs, then the distance from the floor is beaten off. A fishing line for a trimmer is marked on the wall and check it in level.
Then mark the walls. They do not forget that from the edge of the being erected to the edge of the radiator. There should be at least ten centimeters.
The result is a rectangle that will indicate the edges of the attachment of the future structure.
Stage third: Creating the frame
The frame from the profile for the box for this use a metal profile. Installation technology:
- The guide profiles are applied to the lines indicated on the wall. They are cut in advance at the desired height. Several fasteners are drilled with a drill. They do it so that there are names on the wall.
- According to these points, the holes are drilled into which the dowels are inserted.
- The profile is placed on the places of fastening and fixed with screws.
- Thus, all parts of the metal frame are installed. Do not forget to fasten them with connecting elements.
Advice! Between the metal profile and the surface, the laying of a special shock.Absorbing material should be provided.
A metal frame should be obtained, which will be securely attached to the base. It will be better to immediately close the heating pipes. For more convenience, they think over the removable option.
Stage Four: Carriage
Further process of the box with drywall will be completely simple when compared with those works that have already been carried out.
- To close the heating point in the room, marking on the drywall sheet in advance. Using a hacksaw (electric jigsaw) cut it into the desired elements. Small parts can be easily cut with a construction knife.
- The place for the screen is also calculated and the place. It can be of different sizes, most often use 6090 cm and 60120 cm. It is better to measure the selected option on the inner frame. A couple of millimeters are removed from the result.
- For greater convenience, each cut area is marked from the wrong side. Or do it differently-they immediately install them.
- Details close the necessary places. Self.Tapping screws are used for this. They are screwed in a pitch of fifteen centimeters.
- Screws screw on the surface with the surface.
Stage Fifth: Finishing
The final stage of the finish begins. It lies in the fact that the created box is treated with putty. You need to close all the seams well. The process looks like this:
- The seams are slightly extended, a construction knife is suitable for this.
- The finished areas are primed.
- On the corners are imposed on the oral corners.
- External seams are smeared with a mixture and applied a net grid.
- The finish layer of putty is applied to the surface.
It turns out a design that has a “window” into which the screen is inserted. Thus, it is possible to close any heating battery.
On a note! It is often possible to create a rather large box that can be used to store unnecessary things.
How to close heating batteries and pipes with drywall: 12 relevant when repairing issues
Reference: Steel melting temperature. 1300. 1400C. Zinc boiling temperature. About 900C. By welding the galvanizing, you get a pipeline that has only the price from galvanized steel: the seams will be rusted the same as that of a black steel pipe.Reference: Water in the CO system due to the mineral salts and metals dissolved in it is an electrolyte. For the emergence of electrochemical processes, metals forming a galvanic pair should only be at a short distance from each other in a common circuit filled with electrolyte.
If you have a centralized hot water supply, then for the DIS riser the same restrictions are valid as in the case of central heating. The steel risers of the hot water and the CVS cannot be sewn in any case: after the first leak you will have to do re.Repairs. Well, each thread is a place of potential leaks: flax burns out over time, and synthetic windings often give leaks at the slightest reverse course (for example, if a neighbor when replacing the battery slightly turns the riser or will cut the thread on it).
The difference from the apartment is one: every 8-10 meters of sewer roying, it should be torn by tees or audits for cleaning, opposite which hatches are mounted in the box.