How to sew knitwear with an ordinary sewing machine

How to sew knitwear with a sewing machine and what to do if it fails?

Many housewives like to sew different things with their hands. Knitwear. it is always affordable and convenient. Sometimes there is a desire to create something pleasant to the touch out of knitwear. But as soon as the sewing process begins, all moods are gone. The work does not go well: the thread tears, and the stitch is out of whack.

In such a situation, many people wonder what they need to do to correct this problem. To this question you will get not quite unambiguous answers. And what you do, you decide for yourself.

How to Sew Knitwear with a Domestic Sewing Machine

Stitching on knitwear tears when stretched? Stitches look uneven, and the layers of material “go in waves” or move relative to each other after they are sewn on the domestic sewing machine? Here’s why it happens, and what to do to avoid it.

Knitwear is a material that has a high elasticity. To work with it use overlock machine and overlock, which can perform single or multi-strand chain stitch, formed by intertwining loops of thread. Such a stitch is relatively easy to unstitch, but can stretch, and then return to its original position.

A domestic sewing machine is only capable of making shuttle stitches, which are formed by intertwining two threads: the upper needle thread and the lower shuttle thread. Such stitches have a high looseness, but tear when stretching. That is why sewing knitwear with normal straight stitch, designed for stitching inelastic fabrics, is wrong. Special “knit” stitches that can withstand light stretch should be used for this purpose:

Sufficiently strong, elastic stitch, which is in most household machines with a needle hole width of 5. 7 mm. To make the zigzag join stitch look neat, the length and width of the stitch on knitwear should be reduced to 1.5. 2 mm.

Compared to the classic zigzag stitch, this variation is more durable and elastic, as more needle punctures are required to form the seam. As a rule, interrupted zigzag stitch is used for stitching high-stretch knitwear: microfiber, biflex, and for sewing elastic bands on underwear and swimwear. The length and width of the interrupted zigzag should be adjusted on a sample to achieve the right balance between the appearance of the stitch and its functionality.

Ideal for finishing and fixing stitches on the face of a garment. On the outside it looks like two parallel straight stitches, on the inside it looks like a zigzag stitch, which gives the stitch the necessary (but less than a full zigzag) elasticity, and binds the stitches together.

When sewing knitwear, only twin needles that are properly marked and suitable for stretch fabrics should be selected. The standard width of the zigzag in most machines is 5 mm, therefore, for them you can use double needles of width from 2.5 to 4 mm.

CONTOUR KNIT (ELASTIC) STITCH

Looks like a straight stitch, with only a slight, barely noticeable slant. Such a stitch works well for sewing vertical lines. Sewing in horizontal positions can distort the fabric. To minimize stretching, let the machine advance the fabric by itself, controlling only the direction of travel, but not the speed of feed of the knit fabric.

Most overlocks and sewing machines have a differential feed function which allows the fabric to be slightly stretched or compressed to suit the application. It makes it easier to move the knit under the presser foot and reduces the risk of the stitching on the layers to be sewn in relation to each other.

In domestic sewing machines, the fabric is fed by a toothed rack that advances the fabric towards the needle. When sewing two or more layers of fabric, the lower moves faster than the upper, resulting in a slight, but noticeable landing on the knitted fabric, the needle skips stitches and tears the thread.

The solution to this problem is to use special feet. They do not just glide over the top layer of material, but push it through in sync with the toothed rail. On sale there are different options that fit into most modern sewing machines. The best is considered the top feeder, the use of which makes the feeding of the fabric even and allows you to sew knitted materials in a straight line without pre-sewing. An alternative to such a device is a stepping foot, equipped with a silicone overlay, which reduces the risk of missing stitches and simplifies the process of moving the material.

Only special needles with a rounded point are suitable for sewing knitwear, because they do not pierce the fibers of the material, but push them apart, thus maintaining the integrity of the fabric.

Let’s look at the classification of these needles using products from the German company Schmetz:

Jersey needles are for 100% cotton or low-stretch material with up to 10% polyester;

Stretch. for work with kulirnoy smooth, cashmere, ribbon, footer, which contain more than 10% of polyester and / or present elastane fibers;

Super Stretch for stretch fabrics with a lot of elastane (biflex, linen mesh).

Stretch Twin Needle. twin needles for elastic sartan, cashmere, ribbon, footer.

When purchasing needles, pay attention not only to the letter designation, but also to the numbers on the package. Pattern numbers 90 for heavy knitwear or fleece, 80 for three-stranded buttonholes, double needlepoint and heavy biflex. 75. for worsted smoothie, microfiber, mesh, knitted guipure, and other fine fabrics.

Before you start sewing, you should check the quality of the machine stitch on the sample: adjust the needle and hook thread tension, release the pressure of the presser foot, adjust the sewing speed (it should be slow and the pedal should be pressed smoothly).

Do not use thick, loose cotton threads or threads designed for decorative trim. The best choice in the case of knitwear. fine quality synthetic, which will not deform the fibers of the material.

Before sewing knitwear by machine, the cuts should be pre-matched or pinned across the future seam to avoid displacement of the fabric layers. You can only disregard this rule if you have a special foot. the top feeder.

When sewing complex areas on a very stretchy knit under the bottom layer it is possible to put a strip of water-soluble fleece (used for machine embroidery), tracing paper or other thin paper. After the stitching is finished, the stabilizing layer should be carefully removed.

If the stitch has several skipped stitches, it is not necessary to rip and re-stitch. This visual defect can be corrected manually, using a needle with a thread in shade, which should be carefully divided into two small stitches, repeating the operation with all the problem areas in turn.

Sew knit stitches with an ordinary machine

Straight stitch

You can sew over the knit with a regular straight stitch. But you should pay attention to the following tips:

  • Set a stitch length of not more than 2 mm. Better. 1.5 mm.
  • Stitch at a distance of 1-1.2 cm from the edge.
  • Stitching must be carried out by slightly pulling the fabric with both hands on the front and back of the foot. This is to keep the threads from tearing while you wear them. Stretch the knitted fabric just where the stitch runs.
  • Once the knit stitching is done, bend the seam allowances and iron them out.

Ordinary straight stitches can be used on fabrics which are moderately stretchy.

Knit stitch

This type of stitching is present in some modern sewing machines. The seam is zippered and has a high elasticity, so that the fabric stretches well and the thread that binds it together does not tear when stretched hard.

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No particular recommendation for reverse stitching. There is no need to stretch the fabric as the zipper stitch allows the material to stretch.

Overcasting

This stitch allows you to simultaneously sew and hem blanks. It has an aesthetic appearance, and is well suited for use with knitwear.

Overlock stitch is an imitation overlock stitch. However, in contrast, this stitch is less elastic. It is very strong and very suitable for stretchy, thin knitwear. Overcasting stitch is often used for close-fitting garments.

Stretching of the fabric is not required during the sewing process, as the stitch is slightly stretched. But be careful when using reverse stitching. In some places it is possible to seal the seam, as a result of which it will lose its elasticity and may tear in a strong stretch.

There can be several types of hemstitch in a modern sewing machine. Aside from external differences, they may require different applications. Therefore, it is better to read the instruction manual of a particular sewing machine before starting work.

Some overlock stitches resemble a four-strand overlock stitch. However, this is nothing more than a superficial resemblance, as a domestic sewing machine is not capable of threading in the same way as a overlock. Therefore, it is advisable to stitch at a distance of 0.5 mm from the edge of the cut, and then carefully trim the excess fabric. This will allow you to get a perfectly flat and beautiful edge.

Zigzag

This is a classic stitch used in many domestic sewing machines. They are excellent for working with knit fabrics, because they do not constrict the fabric and have a sufficient margin of safety. The size of the zigzag stitches is customizable, allowing you to work on a variety of materials.

For sewing knitwear, the following tips should be heeded:

  • Average stitch length is 2.5-3 mm.
  • Stitch width. 1 mm. For small items can be reduced to 0,5 mm.
  • The seam is laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge.
  • It is not necessary to stretch the fabric during the stitching process. If you have difficulty sewing it, then ease off the presser foot.
  • After sewing the last stitching, fold back the seam allowances and iron them out.

Double stitching

The peculiarity of this method is that two parallel stitches are sewn. They can be straight or zigzag stitches. The latter option is preferred due to the elasticity of the seam.

knitwear, ordinary, sewing, machine
  • Do the first stitch on the mowing line of the stitching.
  • The next stitch is 0.5 cm from the first one, and runs along the seam allowance.
  • Trim off any excess fabric along the last stitch.

If you’re using straight stitching, don’t forget to slightly stretch the fabric while sewing your knitwear.

Double needle stitch

This type of stitch can be used when working with any type of material. In the process of working with a yarn is formed elastic zigzag stitch.

knitwear, ordinary, sewing, machine
  • When sewing with a twin needle, make sure that the right needle runs along the mowing line and the left needle runs along the seam allowance.
  • Adjust the thread tension on the unwanted piece of fabric. To do this, watch the quality of the seam. If it is weak (no zigzag on the wrong side), increase the tension. If between the stitches appeared groove, it indicates too much tension of the fabric.
  • Once you have adjusted the thread tension, there is no need to pull the fabric taut by hand.

How to sew the neck of a knit garment

At the initial stage of mastering the art of sewing with such fabrics often encountered the question of how to process the neck of a knitted dress. To figure out how to process the neck of a jersey t-shirt, remember these points:

  • Get a strip of the same quality material 3 cm wide.
  • Zigzag the edges.
  • Sew the main fabric to the neck on the right side, pulling the material slightly, stitch.
  • Tuck the hem to the left side so the front of the hem will be visible and the stitching will be closed, and then tack.
  • Sew from the front side.

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How to sew KNITS on a REGULAR sewing machine??? Here are simple STEPS and TIPS that I use!

How to sew knitwear

Knitted fabrics. are interlaced loops in longitudinal or transverse directions. This structure provides the distinctive and indispensable qualities of this material: elasticity, softness, low crease and comfort. Working with Knitwear. pleasant and easy if you know how to approach this material.

Cut Preparation

Depending on the type and quality, stretch fabrics can shrink up to 5-10% when washed and ironed. To avoid this unpleasant moment, the pre-cut should be designed.

Rules for ironing

Knitwear should be ironed on the reverse side (so as not to leave shiny traces), without effort, weak or moderately heated iron. Never stretch fabric.

Patterns

Before sewing a piece of knitwear you need to prepare the patterns. To do this, the basic basis of a fitted dress is reconstructed taking into account the stretch of the selected material. In sewing, this factor is necessarily taken into account. According to the degree of stretch there are three groups of knitted fabrics: weakly. 0 to 40%, mean. 41 to 100% and strongly extensible. more than 100%. On this value depends both the material consumption and the pattern calculations.

The degree of stretching is determined as follows: fold the fabric across at a distance of 7-10 cm from the cut. Mark a 10 cm segment along the bent line and gently stretch it to the width of. The amount by which the length of the segment is increased. is the degree of stretch: 5 cm. 50%, 2.5 cm. 25%. For plotting the pattern you also need to know the tensile strength of the knitted fabric.

The stretch coefficient is calculated using the formula: Cr = Dl.e : DL.n, where DL.д. the length of the segment before stretching and Dl.п. the length of the piece after stretching. Example: Cr = 10 cm :12 cm = 0.8. Consequently, the parameters Og, From and About must be multiplied by a factor of 0.8. We will get a result based on the stretch factor of the fabric.

The width of the neck and armholes also make less, so they do not stretch the product on the figure. The sleeve is constructed with a nonstretchy roll.

Needles

For sewing knitwear, special needles are used which differ from general purpose and standard needles in that they have a specially rounded point which gently spreads the loops of fabric during sewing without damaging their integrity and without causing pinches and arrows.

Knitwear needles are usually marked “Jersey”. for cotton and woolen knitwear and “Stretch” For Lycra, “oil” and bi-stretch fabrics. Rounding and smoothing of the needle point are selected depending on the elasticity of the fabric. The more friable it is, the larger the needle radius should be.

Thread

There are special polyester long fiber and nylon fiber or textured threads. If you don’t have them, the most common ones will do. Like “Ideal ” (in bobbins) or their analogues on large bobbins. The main thing: the threads must be thin and at the same time strong. Before you start working with elastic materials, the sewing machine must also be set up.

Footstock

A normal presser foot may not press sufficiently when working with thin and slippery knitwear. That is why it is necessary to adjust its pressure beforehand, by checking on the sample the necessary pressure.

knitwear, ordinary, sewing, machine

A special foot for knitwear will make your work much easier. Its secret is that it advances two layers of fabric simultaneously with the lower web runner at the same speed and avoids the problem of the lower pattern sinking or stretching while sewing.

Knit stitches

Materials with weak extensibility can be stitched with usual straight stitch with small step of 1-1,5 mm, slightly stretching both parts (for giving extensibility). Such stitching is suitable for longitudinal seams of details and products not tight-fitting (tunics, T-shirts and loose-fitting pullovers), processing of collars, cuffs, shirts.

Details of high-stretch knitwear is best sewn with a narrow zigzag stitch: stitch width of 0.5-1 mm and length of 2-3 mm. Normal straight stitch is too vulnerable under tension. The zigzag, on the other hand, allows for tension-free stretching.

In modern sewing machines for easy work there is a set of special knitted stitches: for stitching. Knitted fine zigzag stitch with a small reverse stroke, which gives the seam elasticity, dotted zigzag stitch for processing the bottoms of products and decorative elastic stitches. These stitches allow you to sew in stretch fabrics such as leotards, jumpsuits and bathing suits.

No Serger, No Problem! Find Out How to Sew Knits on Your Sewing Machine

Also be sure to check and adjust the thread tension before working. The most common is for the top thread. It should not be too tight. A few stitches should be sewn on a pattern, sewing two patterns, and then testing for stretch and durability. If the thread breaks, the tension. Loosen. A good and reliable jersey stitch should stretch with the fabric.

Thus, when starting to work, we must experimentally pick up a sample of the correct needle, set the necessary presser foot, adjust the tension of the thread and opt for a suitable stitch for sewing details of the cut of jersey.

If the machine stubbornly skips stitches, you can use a little trick: under the foot, along the seam, put a strip of paper.

Seam treatment

The cuts of the cut pieces are worked with a coarse zigzag stitch, both pieces together. allowances should be no more than 1 cm. Double-stitching is not desirable. Stitching becomes more vulnerable when stretched. Can be worked with a stitch “pseudo-overlock”, if your machine has one. Don’t forget to change the presser foot. It needs to have a right edge stop. It’s best to sew at a low speed. That way you will prevent skipping. With this foot you can sew with a zigzag, then the edge of the cut will not crumple.To sew without crumpling, the material should be slightly pulled up behind the foot (it is even better to do it by the ends of the threads, so the stitch will be stretched, not the fabric itself), spreading the cuts in front of the foot. If a wave does creep in, you need to iron it down afterwards and it will return to its place.

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Longitudinal cuts are usually no problem and if you use a coarse zigzag with a limiting foot you get fairly accurate results. Cross cuts are a little trickier. On the sample you need to practice what is more suitable for your type of knitwear: stretch it a little or push it under the foot.

Shoulder seams

Shoulder seams in products should not be pulled out, so they need to be stabilized. This can be done with a matching colored bias tape or a bias binding tacked into the seam.You can use strips of regular or adhesive fleece for the same purpose, which are fixed together with the allowance. It is desirable to reinforce the seams on the shelf, for the convenience of piecing. If the neckline on the back also need to protect against stretching, on the seam is stitched velvet ribbon.

Neckline and armholes

To maintain the shape of the neckline, a chain stitch is sewn along the seam at a distance of 1.2-1.5 cm. Quick and handy. glue a glue web to the neck allowances and seal them to the wrong side. That way we protect the neckline from being stretched (if it is not necessary) and at the same time we are stitching the hem of the garment without stitching. Do the same at the armholes for sleeveless garments.

Methods of working the neck and armholes:

Processing the bottom of the product

The bottom of the product can be processed in different ways:

Hinges, collars, strips

Before sewing buttonholes, be sure to reinforce the knitted fabric with fleeces, adhesive or cobwebs. Cut them with extreme care.

If the garment is supposed to have slit parts, these places are glued with an adhesive fleece.

Collars and cuffs, as well as trims are also glued with adhesive, preferably knitted, so that it pulls on the fabric.

And the final, finishing touch. Iron the finished product. This is a very important and responsible stage. The main thing: iron with a moderately hot iron, without effort, pressing it to the surface of the product.

The domestic brand “Gamma” is highly popular, the products of this company are most accessible to the general consumer. For knitted fabrics the most commonly used types are Mikron and Nitka.

Mikron is a durable polyester, used for the manufacture of clothing, shoes, leather goods. Smooth texture allows for even and tight machine stitching. Reels wound on 912 meters (1000 yards). Manufacturer’s website offers 60 color variants.

Nitka. made of 100% polyester with silicone inlay, highly resistant to rubbing and tearing, suitable for overlock sewing and for overlock edge trimming. 4570 m (5000 yds) spooled on reels. 242 colors in the palette.

German company ALTERFIL produces the product according to the special system Eko-Tex-Standart 100 and DIN EN ISO 9001: 2008. The threads are made of 100% polyester and come in several kinds.

Reinforced. produced with “S” mark, they are used for high quality lightweight and outerwear.

Textured with the letter “B” is used for the sewing and processing of knitted garments, there are varieties for very thin fabrics and universal sewing.

Using your Sewing Machine to Sew Knitted Fabric

Elastic. very elastic texture: stretch 55-62%, used for processing stretch fabrics, sewing tracksuits, underwear, swimwear.

Dip 20 semi. perfect for creating flat stitches, available in 20 colors, with a characteristic soft sheen.

Brilliant is a viscose, often used for decorative stitches. For stitching lingerie or light stretch fabrics, put in the shuttle.

For overlock sewing, you can buy the following brands.

  • Coatsm, Nitex, Veritas are universal options, suitable for overlock and a regular machine.
  • Nitex, DH, RainBow have soft, stretchy fibers especially for overlock, they are used for finishing the edges of fabric, the choice of colors is huge.

27 Комментарии и мнения владельцев:

Wow!Great, thank you for such a secret, we must try it!!

Give it a try! Very easy and handy

Cool! Thanks! I assumed that you have to put something paper, but I did not think about the paper from the shoes!

Such paper is more convenient than usual, as very thin and easily torn off in the end

When my mother worked as an embroiderer (on a freewheel machine), she embroidered on knitwear through such paper. Many people use a non-woven fabric for this purpose (on the underside), but it then stays and unpleasant to the body. And the paper washes out. True, in embroidery, there are more stitches, had a good deal of this paper then “peel off”. This work is just entrusted to me 🙂 I was a little girl, so I helped as much as I could :). Well, and my mother sewed knitwear, too, through the paper. Of course, also used knitting needles.

Here! And now the most important question: why in any sewing manual is not written this simple way?? After all, it’s elementary! But myself I would never in my life would not have guessed.Now I always have in stock this paper, double needle and a simple knitting needle 🙂

Sveta, thank you for such a detailed master class! Of course, I rarely sew with knitwear, just because I rarely sew clothes, but I’ll know for the future!

Yeah, keep that in mind. in case you start sewing clothes too?

Sveta, and my sister-in-law taught me to put newspaper, the effect is the same. I put white margins, no printing, so the letters won’t be left on the fabric if anything happens. Newspaper isn’t much thicker than this shoe paper, but everyone can find it! A century of life. Take your time!

I tried it with newspaper, but it’s not so comfortable. It’s not soft at all, and it seals too much on thin knitwear, especially if you make the neck. And shoe paper is kind of like tracing paper, but much softer, yet strong enough (not tissue paper)

Oh, I’m gonna start collecting shoe paper now. Maybe I’ll start sewing?:) Sveta, thanks, took my advice.

Why not start? I’m sure you can do better than that 😉

I once read somewhere that you need to put paper under the thin fabric, but what. That’s a good tip!

I also suffered with knitwear, until I bought a good German needles, with them the machine sews without any problems. The way with the paper is also good, I so sewed cloak of lacquer.

Oh, tell me which ones? I have Milward Stretch, they do not cope 🙁

Sveta, just in time to see this post! I have in my basket “to fix” my husband’s home pants, knit Adidas brand, 15 years old, but dearly loved, not to part with)))) The face is silky, that’s right with a satin sheen, and the underside is kind of a slight “fleece.”. And there came into disrepair all the waist part, or rather takini-then nothing, it is probably eternal, but the elastic, string and all the threads are dead. I began to remake, and the machine refuses to stitch, it loops very hard, in tatters, does not move the fabric, the needle squeaks through the fabric. Unfortunately, your way didn’t help either. I’m thinking what else I’d like to try?)))Thanks for the tip!

I also remembered. When we played “theater” as kids, we used to “control” on the tickets by stitching on a machine without thread, and then tearing it off like a real one))

I changed the needle to a knitting needle? For the knit part, you also need to change the tension of both the upper and lower threads. On my machine, I take the top threader down a notch and twist the bobbin a little. That way the threads run more freely, with less tension. But this is not universal advice, it’s different for everyone

Change the needle. But to adjust the tension more time I’m afraid, or then and the sheet will not be able to hem.)))I do not adjust the bottom at all, and the top should try, remembering the settings)))

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