Sewing secrets that mechanics have been hiding from us
There are a lot of nuances and small tips on how to work properly on the sewing machine, as well as how to adjust it with your own hands in case of need. Trouble can wait for us at the most unexpected times, for example, when we urgently need to sew a thing, and some small breakdown happened. 8 interesting sewing secrets that most mechanics know, are explained in detail below!
Secret: the sewing machine does not move the fabric? There is a simple solution
If the sewing machine does not move the fabric, you just need to adjust the teeth. They don’t come out far enough.
Use an Allen wrench to loosen this screw:
How to setup your Electrical Sewing Machine (103a) | Alex Marie
Adjust the eccentric and tighten it back up.
Secret : the sewing foot does not stand straight
There is only one screw on the stem of the presser foot holder. unscrew it a little, loosen it. Now you can turn the foot any way you want. Fix it straight and tighten the screw back.
Secret: The machine does not correctly adjust the needle thread tension
For this adjustment you need also to remove the side panel. You need to unscrew the two screws:
After you remove the thread tension adjustment mechanism, loosen the tension to zero and check for dirt.
If you have cleaned everything and the tension is still bad, then you need to increase the pressure on the spring. Press on the plate, screw in and release the plate. The pressure on the spring is increased.
The secret : the machine jumps when it works
It is very easy to adjust this fault. Often the manufacturer puts decorative feet on the back of the machine.
And there are screws underneath that can be used to adjust the machine. Simply screw in tightly and put the legs back on. The machine now stands firm and steady!
How to Operate a Portable Mini Sewing Machine FHSM 505. NEX Sewing Machine
Secret : sew on knitted fabric without special needle
A normal needle makes many skips on stretch fabric. To solve the problem, you can lower the needle 2mm.
The difference in sewing this way is obvious (left. after adjustment).
Secret : what is this hole on the presser foot holder?
You need this hole to install the guides, which will help with stitching and embroidery.
Secret : how to use the sewing machine threader correctly?
Raise the needle to the highest position, then insert the needle threader itself into the needle by the hook from left to right and that’s it! The needle is threaded.
The Secret: Low thread tension on the bobbin
Did you know that you can sew and wind the thread on the bobbin on the sewing machine at the same time? If your machine does not wind the bobbin tightly, you need to increase the thread tension. For this you need to make a simple adjustment! The machine will immediately begin to wind tightly and tightly.
Learn more about the secrets of adjustment and ongoing sewing machine repair with their own hands in the video below:
All about hand sewing machines
The hand sewing machine is a true classic, with which even today you can learn the basics of creating the first stitches. Modern manufacturers also do not forget about the simplest solutions, offering the best options for small domestic repair of clothes. the usual mechanical sewing machines with a manual drive. Consider how relevant today models without electric drive and computer control.
But before you thread a thread and start sewing with a classic manual sewing machine, it is worth learning the basics of its construction and principles of operation. Completely mechanical machines require regular maintenance, adjustments and fine tuning. Create complex stitches with it will not work. But you can get basic sewing skills and a good experience in servicing this kind of mechanisms, which will certainly come in handy when using more complex equipment.
How to Operate a Mini Sewing Machine Tutorial
Rating of the best sewing machines
Today the market is represented by a huge number of manufacturers and models. Among them, the following models are particularly noteworthy.
Features of Singer Stylist 7258
Electromechanical machine, suitable for experienced and beginner sewers. Model has many functions: sewing clothes, embroidery, sewing quilted products and home decor, 7 types of buttonholes. Also the device can control speed, has automatic thread changer and automatic bobbin winding, 7 legs.
Features Brothers Innov-is NV1800Q
Computer control. Main features: over 200 stitches and 10 buttonhole designs, 4 foot pedal functions, built-in fonts, automatic threading and tension control. The machine can sew in a circle and does volume embroidery, copes with leather and has a set of 5 legs.
Functions Janome 2212
Small and handy electric sewing machine. Features a transparent foot, through which the quality of seam quality and smooth stitches can be clearly seen.
Singer Heavy Duty 4432
Electromechanical model with horizontal hook. Can work with 32 operations, well copes with coarse and thick fabrics. Has a needle threader and extra feet.
Bernina Bernette B33
Another electromechanical model. Has a pendulum shuttle, 15 types of operations and automatic buttonholes.
The machine offers 17 operations, semi-automatic buttonholes, horizontal hook and a few legs.
AstraLux M 20
Has a swinging shuttle, electro-mechanical control, 10 types of operations, semi-automatic buttonholes and a set of legs, including for creating quilted fabrics and quilting.
TOYOTA Super Jeans 34
A good sewing machine for beginners. Model offers 34 operations, semi-automatic buttonholes, the program “Sewing Adviser” which displays the current settings and recommends the best. Also possible to adjust the strength of the pressure on the fabric.
Tools needed for sewing
Only basic materials and tools are needed: a simple cloth and a minimal tailor’s kit. The following list of tools will be required:
- Tailor scissors. Their distinctive feature is that they are very sharp, so as not to spoil the fabric material, and also have one ear larger than the other. Their blades are not at right angles, like conventional scissors. The large diameter of one of the lugs is due to the fact that sometimes you have to put a lot of effort to cut a dense fabric;
- Thread. Good quality, thick threads are needed. Classic cotton threads are not recommended, as they often break and stitch unevenly. It is best to use 100% polyester-based synthetic threads, suitable for hand or machine sewing;
- Needles. Needles are used for the measuring stage and for repairs. Of the size ranges from 1 to 12, where 1 is the thinnest. Needle selection should be based on the type of fabric, just as with machine needles.
This list could go on for a very long time, but these are the basics. You need to understand how and what to do before you can buy more advanced and specialized tools.
Typical mistakes of beginners
No one gets everything perfect the first time. It’s an axiom, and it’s silly not to recognize it. But you can reduce the number of mistakes if you learn about the most common ones beforehand.
- Choosing difficult materials to sew for the first time. Start with chintz, cotton or jersey.
- Cutting without precutting, or wet-steaming.
- Failure to follow the direction of the grain. Of course, there are things that need to be sewn obliquely. But at first it is better to choose simple models and sew in the direction of the grain.
- Choosing threads, needles and accessories by eye. It is possible to miss a size or color.
- Sewing without a pattern. Many people begin to cut and sew a product immediately with the material that is designed for it. If the thing is not complicated or a very experienced seamstress has taken on the job, it is possible. In all other cases, it is recommended to first sew a layout of a simple fabric, and then proceed to work with the main material. This way you can see the individual mistakes made in the cut, or change some details without spoiling anything.
- Small allowances. It is better if they are not less than 3-4 cm. That way you can correct mistakes without losing quality (for example, if the stitching is uneven and you have to unstitch).
- Sew without measuring. Many people neglect this boring process, and in vain. Stitching the product with pins is possible if you are an experienced craftswoman, who has sewn many different things. Otherwise, sewing without a fitting pin risks ruining the material with crooked stitches, unnecessary creases and incorrectly folded pieces.
- Sewing without trying on. If you are not sewing a kitchen muffler, but a more serious thing, a fitting is necessary. The more often the better. That way you can spot mistakes and correct them in time.
To begin with, you need to choose the numbers of needles, as well as bobbins, this will give you the opportunity to sew different fabrics. It is also necessary to pay attention to the stitching, but before you start it is desirable to learn all the settings well and then decide on the choice of stitching. Thread, which is installed on the bottom, is adjusted by the screw installed on the cap, while the upper thread with a special lever.
- Rewind the thread from the bobbin onto the bobbin;
- Put the bobbin on the upper stick;
- Slip the upper thread through;
- Check if it is well stretched;
- Tuck in and pull out the bottom thread;
- Bring the upper and lower threads behind the presser foot.
Important! Wind the thread on the bobbin from the same bobbin that is mounted on top.
How to use
Instruction or diagram available to tell you how to use the sewing machine, but to older products, the rules of operation are difficult to find. Don’t get discouraged, the main thing for sewing is to wind the thread correctly. So, all steps should be performed in order.
- To remove the manual sewing machine and prepare it for work, you need to open the box in which it is stored. This can also be done without a key, in case of loss of one, just twist it in the hole with something sharp, as the artless lock is more conditional than protective.
- Install the equipment on a flat, secure plane that will not wobble during sewing.
- Need to check the serviceability of the machine, set it to work. If the equipment has been in place for many years, and its condition is unknown, adjustment must be made by a professional.
- When the machine is aligned and checked, find the needle clamp, raise it up to the stop, insert the needle, and secure it with the screw. Set the needle according to the thickness and density of the fabric. The difference can be noticed by the tip and the diameter of steel products. When sewing coarse fabric, a fine needle can break.
- Correct threading will help the pointers on the machine itself. They make it clear which way to pass the thread through the eye of the needle.
- The very process of sewing occurs with the forward movement of the needle and the knotty connection of the two threads. the upper and lower. To install the lower one, you must open the slot below the machine needle and insert the bobbin. Threading is not hard, just turn the handwheel a little and it will come out on its own. For perfect sewing, upper and lower threads should match in thickness and texture. Better if they come from the same bobbin.
- Next, place the fabric under the needle. Turn the handwheel in one direction, backward movements will confuse or tear the thread. Start rotating slowly, then increase the speed. When sewing with an old machine, the fabric will have to be guided by hand to form an even stitch.
- On some older machines, it may be possible to switch modes for thread tension, stitch size, and stitch type.
To make sure your sewing is flawless, we suggest the following tips:
- Observe safety, do not put your fingers under the needle while turning the handwheel;
- Do not try to stitch a hard surface, such as a button, as the needle will break;
- do not rotate the handwheel idly, without a set fabric, as it is possible to confuse and break a thread, and a needle to blunt;
- during operation, all covers on the machine should be closed, and the levers properly aligned.
Learning to sew. Start at. Lesson 1
At one time I wanted to do paid lessons, but that would not bring me a sense of accomplishment Making something that can be used by a limited number of people makes no sense.
The only disadvantage for you. until there is no video. It certainly would be many times more productive, but can not buy a good Action Camera. Yes, and I have not thought through the shooting system. Need a flexible tripod somehow from behind, so people can see everything from the first person. This is the most obvious way. As soon as I’ll get hold of it, I’ll take a lot of interesting shots.
About the technique I should say at once. I will show and do everything on the industrial machine with triple advancement.
Many people write me saying that I am categorical, saying that only industrial machines are suitable for such work. How the mole feel to people who can not afford an industrial machine, what do they do.
And they are reproaching me in all seriousness. It amuses me sometimes.
A man who decided to learn to sew salons (and he imagines in his mind that he will sew magnificent salons, reeking of beauty and clarity of lines) should understand that such things are sewn in the factory not Podolsk. And accordingly, to repeat this will not work on a dusty grandmother’s machine from the Third Reich, which you found in the attic of her house in the village)))) Although there are people who make great stuff on such artifacts. The steering wheels, the gear knobs. But not the seats. It won’t work. It’s the same with the household.
We had a lightweight overlock at work at one time, tried working with it. The light curtains were sewn up. It broke for a couple of days. The seamstress, who works nearby raked everything in an armful and ran home. Says the rag is thin, and I have a cool machine at home. In the evening it came very sad)))) Broke down)) Home machines are not designed for such production capacity. Yes, in the beginning everything was great. And then the ZYNN. And all gone)))
You’ll need some scraps of leatherette, a sewing machine, and thread.
Leather can buy the cheapest, 100-200 rubles. Get a couple of meters. Or get scraps of it, by passing on the workshops of your city. I have such junk in abundance.
Foam on the lining 0.5 cm. For a change, you can take foam rubber 1 cm and some calico or fleseline as a lining. With the glue, you can go over it.
Needles will need number 90R and 120LR. For starters will suffice. Just don’t get any Chinese, Polish or others. There are only two companies for needles. Schmetz and Groz (groz, whoever calls it). The rest do not exist, you do not know any others.
R and LR. sharpening the needle. R. sharp for the weld, LR. blunt at an angle for decorative delay.
100% polyester yarn from any company. Of inexpensive threads are great MACRO, DURAK and similar Turkish threads. Bobbin 1500m of 20 and 2500 40 cost 200 each. So confident middling among the thread manufacturers.
We’ll use 40 for stitching (we need 30 for stronger seams, we won’t need them yet). 20k for the decorative stitching. 10ka and 15ka do not take yet, she also otstichivayut quite beautiful, but that’s later. It’s harder to work with, it makes my eyes glaze over)
Total 1500-2000 you will take a week of training material.
Take a couple of pieces of leatherette. Not necessarily large. I used 20x25cm. Leather, I took a skinny, so set aside (duplicated) it with the same piece. For the sake of clarity I took some contrasting colors. I glued the leatherette pieces facing in different directions, again for clarity.
You can glue them with spray, you can do small strokes of nairite. Never mind. It is possible not to glue at all.
We put the two pieces of leatherette together so you can see the big picture and the scope of your mistakes.
Also remember an important thing. the denser the material, the better the stitching. Just for the sake of interest, give a line on the leatherette, then roll it in half, then in four. With LR needle, the angle of the stitch will lie (slope) more and more and the stitch will be nicer. Also ignore the clang of the feet on thin leatherette. On tight leather with foam, the machine will quilt and whisper, this is normal.
Immediately I want to answer the many “Professionals” and “experts” who will start to grumble. Mol what nonsense, sew straight segments, why do it, stupid waste of time.
I’m willing to bet it isn’t. By doing my exercises and carefully reading my recommendations each person will draw certain conclusions and inferences for themselves. Get a hand on elementary things and feel the first mistakes. Only he will not puzzle over what to do and how to do it, and find the answers in my text.
You can always ask me and your more experienced friends.
Not everyone works in the industry, where under the supervision of an experienced seamstress can calmly and slowly practice on the “pussycat”, sew simple things, getting a hand and improving their mastery of the machine.
On the job itself. How to make your work process not stressful and easy.
All the right tools (and you will know them by heart in a few months, I described them in my article). All the thread, glue, lighter. Everything at hand.
Adjust the right knee elevator so that it is an inch from your knee when your foot is on the pedals. You will gradually understand intuitively its best position and adjust it to you.
Learn how to change (insert and pull out) the bobbin and bobbin cap without taking out the inspection window and without bending down. Just put your hand in, take out, take a new bobbin, put it in the cap, put it back in. All.
Lubricate everything you can, it will make your life easier.
Good light from everywhere. Even from under the left earlobe. But everything should be visible.
You can also print out this chart of elementary problems and solutions.
Weak drawstring (large knots and loops at bottom, top thread loose)
Strong tightening (pulls material together, knots on top of material, yarn tearing)
Improper operation of the machine can be heard by the sound. This is the same as in our cars)) If there is too much tension, the machine starts to work hard. With a weak grip and hinges begins to clang on the right side of the machine where the gears and cogs are located.
In fact it is not necessary in the beginning of the way to study intensively the mechanism of work of the machine and its structure, everything will come gradually with experience and time. In just a few days when you start to make your first steps you will probably want to know the principle of the machine, how it works, what’s the point. And everything will come.
After a while you will start to feel the car as your own car. You’ll feel the slightest change in the sound, vibration and stroke. Even just by the look of the stitch you will know what and where to tweak, where to press, where to hit.
Use a white or silver gel pen to draw strictly parallel straight lines on a piece of leatherette. Smooth. No need to draw by hand, as if you drew it and repeat it. Draw even mowing lines, get used to sewing evenly from the beginning.
I have different pens. But I’ve come to the most comfortable option. my big one is factory, untouched. I used to sew with the right foot cut off so I could better control and see the needle, but the progression was sideways.к. The presser foot did not pull the fabric evenly. Stops at a partially cut small foot. Even now you can feel the fabric to the left, but it’s not a problem at all.
The purpose of this lesson is to learn to sew straight and level. Without wiggling and jerking, understand how the machine, the pedal and the fabric behaves.
The following will be a sequence of steps to remember and always do so in the future. This will make your life easier, trust me.
Take both threads and cut off the excess, leaving 10 cm of both threads.2. Insert the fabric, guide the needle to the start of the stitching.3. Take the lower thread to the back.4. Spin the pulley by hand, lowering the needle into the material.5. Raise the presser foot, take the upper thread with your left hand and move it to the left, then lower the presser foot, hold the thread with this foot.
Then start sewing. Slowly press the pedal and start sewing. Very slow. If you have an asynchronous motor always help the hand by turning the pulley to start slowly. If servo, set it to the slowest speed.
On the servo it is very important to always keep the bottom drive assembly greased from the pedal. There’s a spring-loaded lever and a sleeve. It has to be well lubricated for smooth speed adjustment.
With a servo, don’t grab and stop the wheel, you’ll break it.With an asynchronous motor, it is very easy to sew slowly and slowly by braking the motor with your hand. And it will run smoothly. But it has its own way of working, you have to learn to control the material with one hand. This is inconvenient. Terribly.
It is also very important to know another rule. when you have finished sewing, ALWAYS leave the thread tensioner in the up position. ALWAYS. Get that through your head. In this position the needle is always at its peak lift and the thread in the thread guide is loose and can squeeze freely. Just lift the presser foot with your foot and both threads will come off very easily and without problems.
Do not tug or pull on the thread, especially before dipping it into the fabric. You can break it.
Always pay attention to the appearance of the thread in the stitching. Doesn’t it frizz? Is there any scuffing on the metal of the machine at the points of contact with the thread, on the cups, or other places?
Electric Sewing Machines
Our mechanical sewing machines have been replaced by electric sewing machines. They have been working successfully for decades, allowing for increased productivity. Their speed is several times faster than that of a purely mechanical sewing machine.