Furnace not fire up, Faulty Ignition Sensor
Possible breakdowns and their repair
Not always the boiler’s failure to start is due to inaccurate settings or external causes, but it’s almost always possible to fix the problem yourself.
Before any repairs, turn off the boiler, allow it to cool completely, and turn off the gas supply at the riser. Even if you have only the igniter lit, the risk of burning is very high.
Breakage #1 thermocouple breakage
According to the manual, if the boiler with SIT automatics does not turn on, the problem should be sought in the thermocouple and only in it. A thermocouple is a flame control sensor that ensures that the gas is shut off when the burner fades.
When igniting the machine, keep the knob or the pushbutton pressed for 10-60 seconds just to allow the thermocouple to warm up to the flame and to fix the solenoid valve in the open position.
However, there are a number of situations where this protection system malfunctions:
- Fire does not reach the thermocouple sensor;
- Sensor is smoked, oxidized, or contaminated;
- The copper tube of the thermocouple is burned out or no longer conducts electrical pulses;
- The thermocouple in the adapter to the gas valve is not screwed in tight enough.
This part is not difficult to find in the boiler: it is a red copper tube, one end of which is screwed into the control box at the bottom and the other end into the panel near the igniter and the piezo igniter.
The first thing to try is to tighten the fixing nut to the automatism slightly. A bad contact may be the cause of malfunction. Carefully unscrew the lower end of the thermocouple, which is heated by the flame.
Inspect the sensor and clean it with a thick cloth or the finest sandpaper. Screw it back in and try to start the boiler.
Did not help? Look through the window to see if the flame from the igniter hits the tip of the thermocouple. If not, adjust it by unscrewing the panel with 2 screws or adjust the pilot burner flame as we described above.
If you have a multimeter, you can check the thermocouple yourself. To do this, unscrew both ends of it and pull the part out of the boiler. On the end that screws into the automation unit, you will see a lead tip that transmits the charge to the gas valve. Clean it until it shines.
Position the thermocouple probe so that it will catch fire from a gas stove burner or dry alcohol tablet. Connect the multimeter probe to the lead probe and the copper thermocouple tube and measure the voltage. If all is in order look for the problem further, but if the problem is the thermocouple will have to buy a new part.
Fault #2. draught sensor does not work correctly
The draught sensor is installed at the base of the chimney and is designed to shut off the gas supply, turning off the boiler if the combustion products are no longer output.
Otherwise it is possible poisoning of house occupants by carbon monoxide, so this protection system is necessarily present in all gas boilers.
In Lemax brand energy-independent boilers, the sensor is connected to the adapter that attaches the thermocouple to the gas valve. If its circuit is open, the solenoid valve cuts off the fuel supply and the boiler shuts down.
If an overheat sensor is provided by design, it is also included in this circuit. Accordingly, if the sensor does not work, the boiler can not be started: the gas supply will be carried out only when the handle or a special button is pressed.
The sensor itself rarely fails, problems are usually caused by bad contacts and wires. First of all, disconnect the contacts and clean them with a thick cloth, solvent or alcohol. Inspect for the integrity of the wires and their insulation, if possible. test with a multimeter, if the conductivity is broken. replace.
Dry the cleaned pins, reinsert them as tightly as possible and you may solder the wires to the sensor itself. Try to start the boiler.
If the situation does not change, try shorting the contacts on the adapter to the gas valve by wrapping wire around them.
If this helped and the boiler works, the problem is in the draught sensor. Do not leave the contact closed for a long time. it is dangerous for your safety! Replace the sensor or call a specialist.
Nozzle clogging problem #3
It happens that when you try to turn on, even the wick does not light and you can not hear the hiss of gas, that is, nothing happens. Such boiler behavior certainly indicates that the ignition burner nozzle or injector is clogged.
To understand how to ignite the pilot burner of gas boiler Lemax, disconnect the tube that goes to it from the control unit. On the panel at the burner tube gas supply. the middle of 3 connections, for convenience, you can unscrew the thermocouple beforehand.
The nozzle that supplies gas in a thin stream may be the end of this tube or a separate part. Clean the hole in the nozzle with a toothpick and blow out the tube, making sure air is getting through.
Remove the panel where the tube was attached by removing the 2 screws on the sides. You will see the mesh on the gas supply pipe, it takes in air for mixing with the gas.
Considering that the air supply is at the bottom, along the floor, and that pets like to warm near the boiler, this grid can be clogged with dust and hair, which does not always burn out. Blow through this screen. but do not be fanatical about it.
Reassemble everything in reverse order and try to start the boiler. The positive result should be immediately audible. a hiss of gas flowing into the igniter.
Boiler Breakdown: What you can check.
Problem #4: piezo ignition malfunction
Piezo ignition allows you to light the boiler without matches, by pressing a button. The unit under the button generates an electrical impulse, which is transmitted through the wire to the candle and forms a spark at its end.
Broken automatic ignition of boilers Lemax rather rarely, but if this happens, you need to pinpoint the location of the breakage. To do this, disconnect the wires from the candle near the igniter, and try pressing the button. If you hear a “click”, the electrode is defective and if there is no “click” the unit is under the button.
You can try to clean the candle from the fouling by unscrewing the panel with the burner and thermocouple. If necessary, buy a new part and replace. To remove and replace the unit with a button, it is sufficient to remove the cover of the automation unit.
Problem #5. gas valve defective
The gas valve is responsible for the fuel supply to both burners and also cuts off the gas in emergency situations. The bottom of the solenoid valve is controlled by a thermocouple and a draught sensor, while the top pressure is regulated by a thermostat of the balloon. bellows type.
The system is multi-component, and the part is probably the most important in the boiler, so it is not recommended to interfere with its operation by yourself.
Having heard from a specialist about possible problems with the gas valve, do not hurry to get upset: replacement may not be necessary. Prolonged use of the boiler can lead to loss of lubricant and may require adjustment.
You can get to the valve yourself by unscrewing the adapter where the thermocouple is mounted and unscrewing the valve. It is not easy to do. the valve is tightened very tightly to avoid leaks.
From above you can disassemble the control unit SIT only with a special screwdriver or wrench with a TORX T-20 head. Before disassembling the control unit, be sure to mark the position of all knobs and adjusting screws.
Automation does not work on the gas boiler
When the AOGV boiler does not start. Usually before your eyes there is a picture like on the first photo. The solenoid valve button is stuck in the pressed position. It is either clamped with a pencil or with duct tape. The situation in this case is that the boiler works “directly”, so to speak, bypassing all protections. This is unacceptable, although very common in domestic practice. Some people don’t even know they are sitting on top of a bomb. When the valve button does not lock, there are only three main problems.
Faulty thermocouple. Thermocouple either burned out or bad contact between thermocouple and solenoid valve.
Check the thermocouple first. Unscrew the thermocouple nut. Leaving its tip in the working igniter (boiler is in operation)?!) and take a tester. One probe on the thermocouple housing, the other on the thermocouple housing. on the thermocouple contact.
When heated, the thermocouple generates an EMF, which should hold the valve button in the pressed position. If the emf is less than 20 mV. You need to replace the thermocouple. And you need “Instructions for replacing the thermocouple”.
Solenoid valve failure. Solenoid valves behave differently, but in the mainstream. These are reliable, low current and rather primitive devices, inside which there is an ordinary winding. Current is present. Magnet is magnetic, no current and no magnet. Boxes are usually obsolete over the years. It also happens that people try to tighten the thermocouple nut or the thermoplate as firmly as possible (in this case you just need the normal electrical contact). They pull so that they tear off the winding wires inside the box from the output contacts. You can try to measure the resistance of the solenoid valve, but usually no one does it. The solenoid valve is usually the last one to be replaced in the chain of faults listed here. Or it just changes by itself over the years. Or, if the boiler is geographically far away, we take the valve with us to eliminate the problem at any rate and for sure. If the decision is made to replace the Solenoid Valve, you will definitely need the “Solenoid Valve Replacement Instructions” to accomplish this process.
Faults related to the operation of the thermoplate (bad draught)
The problems associated with the operation of this device have long been known. The thermoplate itself is exposed to both air and condensation. The usual rust, oxidation, poor contact, sticking sometimes even makes you hate it. The manufacturer has even made a special test nut to detect problems with the thermoplate. By putting a test nut on the right solenoid valve contact you get around the thermoplate and know right away if it is or isn’t a thermoplate. The thing is, as long as the right solenoid valve contact is open (and should be normally closed) we won’t know what’s wrong with the boiler at all. If the nut is not handy, short-circuit the right valve contact to the housing, e.g. with foil. If everything is working at once, deal with the thermoplate: wipe it clean, adjust, etc.д. To seriously deal with the thermoplastic, it is a good idea to get a “Full information about the operation of the thermoplastic (bad draught)”.
Here are all three of the most frequently occurring problems that “prevent the solenoid valve button from holding down.
Automatics on the gas boiler does not work
The situation is as follows. The boiler only works when the button is in the depressed position. In many cases, everyone immediately thinks that the solenoid valve is faulty. Or even worse. Sometimes it is not immediately clear what the problem is and there is a great desire to immediately replace the entire automation unit. The most frustrating thing is that the root cause of the malfunction may not be affected or eliminated. And after replacing the automation unit, everything remains as it was. Therefore. request. Until you understand what’s going on and see the real evidence, don’t make any hasty decisions about replacing the unit.
The situation in this case is that the boiler works so to speak “directly”, bypassing all the protections. This is unacceptable, although very common in household practice. Some people don’t even realize that gas enters the boiler bypassing the igniter extinguishing protection, so to speak, directly into the boiler.
When the solenoid valve button is not fixed. There are only three problems.
Faulty thermocouple. Either the thermocouple burned out or poor contact between the thermocouple and solenoid valve.
Start by testing the thermocouple. Unscrew the connection nut of the thermocouple. We leave its tip in the working igniter (the boiler works?!) and take a tester. One probe on the body of the thermocouple, the other. to the contact on the end of the thermocouple.
When heated, the thermocouple generates an EMF, which should hold the valve button in the pressed position. If the emf is less than 20 mV. the thermocouple is definitely under replacement. And you need a “Thermocouple Replacement Manual”.
Solenoid valve malfunction. Solenoid valves behave differently, but in the main. they are reliable, low current and rather primitive devices, inside of which there is a simple winding. Is there any current? the magnet is magnetic, the current is not present and the magnet is not present. Boxes are usually obsolete because they’ve been around for years. There are also cases where they try to tighten the thermocouple nut or the thermoplate as much as possible (and all that’s needed is a normal electrical contact). They pull so that they tear off the winding wires inside the box from the output contacts. You can try to measure the resistance of the solenoid valve, but usually no one does this. The solenoid valve is usually the last one in the chain of spare parts listed here. Or it just changes by itself when the boiler has been in operation for more than 10-15 years. Or, if the boiler is geographically far away, we take the valve with us in order to fix the problem in any way and for sure. If it is decided to replace the solenoid valve, you will definitely need the “Instructions for Replacing the Solenoid Valve” for this process.
Faults related to the operation of the thermoplate (bad draught)
The problems associated with the operation of this device has long been known. The very place where the thermoplate is exposed to both air and condensate. The usual rust, oxidation, poor contact, sticking sometimes even makes you hate it. The factory has even produced a special test nut to detect problems related to the operation of the thermoplate. By slipping the test nut onto the right connector of the solenoid valve you can immediately bypass the thermoplate and see if it is the same or not. The thing is that as long as the right contact of the solenoid valve is open (and should be normally closed) we will not understand what is wrong with the boiler at all. If there is no nut at hand, we short-circuit the right contact of the valve to the body, e.g. with foil. If it works at once deal with the thermoplate: wipe it clean, adjust it, etc.д. In order to take the thermocouple seriously, it would be a good idea to get the “Complete information about the operation of the thermocouple (bad thrust)”.
Here were all three, the most common faults that “prevent the solenoid valve button from staying in the pressed position”.
It is difficult to say at a glance what exactly is broken.
All cases come down to checking the thermocouple contact with the solenoid valve and the thermoplate contact, which should be normally closed.
If the contact is tight, check the thermocouple. If the thermocouple outputs less than 16 mV. Change the thermocouple.
If it does not work with the thermocouple, put the test nut on the second contact of the valve (or wrap the foil to close the contact on the housing) to eliminate the circuit solenoid-thermoplate.
If it works. Do the thermowell.
If it still doesn’t work. changing the solenoid valve.
If it doesn’t work when you’ve changed everything, check again all around.
No hurry. All this crap only comes from these three elements or from their improper interaction. Let’s not give up!
The automation on the gas boiler doesn’t work
Troubles of automatics on draught and overheating for boilers AOGV Comfort (H), Mertik, Honeywell and Eurosit. (Date of publication 12.04.2017 г.)
In continuation of our research and speculation, “A boiler with a Honeywell unit shuts down on its own, for no apparent reason”. which were outlined in the article Troubles with Honeywell and Eurosit, we offer you some simple options for diagnosing such faults and a quick solution to the problem without much effort. If you see this information for the first time, we recommend reading the above article. Get a grip right away. If there is no time for that, the minimum that will be described below will already give you the opportunity to solve this problem.
Excerpt from the article Troubleshooting AOGV with block Honeywell and Eurosit on the symptoms of this malfunction:
“It starts as if from afar. Nothing foreshadows trouble. All of a sudden, a working boiler suddenly shuts down. The boiler may work properly for several months before it starts. And maybe even a few years. Well, it’s off. It’s off. Approach the boiler. Startup. Works. After this strange malfunction, it usually takes twenty-four hours, or even a week, or a month. And the situation repeats. The boiler can shut down, for example, at night. After that, the boiler shuts down more often, and in the end, the boiler cannot be started at all. Let go of the button. igniter goes out. “
How to fix some common problems with your boiler
It is especially annoying when a practically new boiler shuts down like this, all of a sudden. It quickly loses credibility, causes anxiety. And when there are old people living in the house who are afraid to go near it themselves and start calling out ANYTHING. I’d rather not say anything about that.
So! The method of diagnostics of such malfunction offered by us is suitable for boilers ZhMZ with import units of any year of release. According to this scheme we work with both new and old boilers.
WARNING. Be warned at once that with boilers perfectly worked out 10-15 years and start to mope in a similar way, usually things are easier than with new or more recent years of release. This is due to the fact that we have not yet gained sufficient experience in repairing more modern boilers. Like a gas valve is almost the same, and equipment, but so far there is no 100% certainty that we can accurately call the cause of failure. We need to gain at least a little experience, because thermocouples, say, in AOGV Comfort (H) or in boilers Juke, installed already a new model. Spare parts for modern machines (from 2014).) The number of boilers produced by the plant is too small to make any clear judgments about their quality. That’s why we are still waiting for. Different cases arise, we are gaining experience. But we can’t be 100% sure.
Nevertheless 1. The first thing you need to do with a boiler that behaves this way is to Wind a jumper between the contacts of the chopper. This can be done both on a working boiler, if the shutdowns become more frequent, and on a “dead” boiler that does not start. We give two options: Directly to the terminals or remove the terminals.
It is good when it is made of stranded soft copper wire. And, preferably, wrap not two strands (through them can simply “not contact”), and wrap more and thicker.
What we do and why all this?
This is needed to quickly check the serviceability of the thermocouple, as well as the traction sensor (button KM-1), the boiler overheating sensor (Thermorelay 95C), as well as the reliability of the breaker contact connection with all of the above parts. Below is a photo of the placement of sensors on modern boilers AOGV with imported units.
Under the top cover of the boiler placed KM button and thermostat 95C. There are also older versions of boilers, where under the lid is placed only the KM-1 button with a thermoplate.
How this group of sensors works? KM-1 button with thermoplastic plate. When the temperature rises sharply due to a bad draft in the chimney, the thermoplate deforms under the action of the high temperature, presses the button and the boiler shuts down. Thermostat 95C. In case of failure of the temperature regulator, which may not shut off the boiler and the boiler “goes into overheating”, the thermo switch, when reaching the temperature of the boiler body above 95C, will open and also shut off the boiler. The 95C sensor and the KM button are connected in series with a wire, which is connected via terminals to the breaker insert. breaker is screwed into the block with one end in contact with a magnetic plug of the valve, which is held open by the emf from the thermocouple, screwed into the breaker from below. The thermocouple is heated by the igniter flame. That’s the science
The EMF from the thermocouple is thus fed from the lower contact of the Interrupter Bushing, via KM-1 Button and a 95C thermostat, to the upper contact, and from there to the magnetic valve plug. If you wind a jumper, we exclude from the circuit the button and the thermostat, thus electromotive force from the thermocouple directly to the magnetic stopper of the gas valve, regardless of what kind: Honeywell, Eurosit or Mertik, the meaning does not change.
If the boiler still does not turn on, even with a jumper, then the thermocouple itself is faulty. Means that some of the sensors are going to be replaced. If the inoperative boiler suddenly turned on after the jumper, then also the sensors or some of them are to be replaced. If the boiler still does not turn on, even with a jumper, it means that the thermocouple itself is defective. And there were cases when the breaker oxidized so that it did not transmit current to the gas valve plug. In this case, change the breaker.
By the way, all of the above parts plus the sensors directly in the complex are called by the factory “Automatics on draught assembly. This is a special, factory prepared for each boiler, ready to work group.
In the case of a deaf boiler that does not work, and even with a jumper. That won’t start or is extremely unstable, you need to go out and see. You will most likely need a complete overhaul there, t.е. Check and possible replacement of everything from the igniter shell, to the thermocouple or the entire draught group. One boiler was once observed for two weeks before we realized the problem. By the way, if you really have a problem write on Viber, WhatsApp 89859221187 (just write, not call)
If the boiler after a jumper works or works steadily, you need, before the jumper does not oxidize, replace the entire group on the draught, those. You need a draught automatics assembly.
Complete draught control system. Description of the kits.
Types of groups. Selection of the proposed set.
For boilers that are equipped with the 95C thermorelay and KM-1 button. This is the most probable variant. It is the most common in terms of calls and the most effective. 2. For boilers which are equipped with the 95C thermorelay and the KM-1 button, but have serious complaints about the operation or the quality of the thermocouple breaker. This is the second option, the Interrupter option. There are cases when the thermocouple is tightened so that the breaker insert is broken, and nothing is transmitted through it anymore. Like this.
IMPORTANT. There are two types of interrupters that were installed by the factory. They have different threads M9 and M10. Here it is difficult to immediately determine which breaker is installed, but there are some guidelines. If the gas valve Eurosit 630 (Eurosit) is installed, the breaker M9 was installed at all times. But it is more complicated with Honeywell and Mertik units. AOGV Comfort boilers were equipped with a Honeywell unit until 2013. Right on the block was labeled Honeywell. If the grey cap on top of the valve says Honeywell and the boiler was manufactured before 2010, then you need an M10 breaker. But there are boilers where Honeywell units have had M9 breakers since 2010. Therefore, it is necessary to check the year of manufacture of the boiler. Since 2014 there were no more Comfort, there were Comfort (H) with M9 breakers. On all Juke and Juke boilers (01) or 02. M9 breakers. All Mertik Maxitrol units, which are no longer called Honewello, have M9 breakers.
Below is a photo of the two types of groups: Without Breaker and with Breaker (M9 or M10)
Here is a general description of the complete set with a Breaker to get the most complete picture.
In the diagram: 1. Breaker. It comes in two versions M9 or M10. If you make a mistake with this thing, the thermocouple just won’t turn into the other thread. So check the year of manufacture of the boiler or look at its name. 2. Breaker insert. These are two contacts separated by a dielectric. To the contacts of the Insertion, we connect the Automatics for draught and overheating (the group itself).3. Group contacts. When connecting them to the Insertion position “which to where?”Doesn’t matter. 4. Thermostat 95C. Normally Closed. Turns the boiler off when the boiler overheats, t.e at achievement of 95 C on the boiler body. Mounted with screws in place. Does not like mechanical deformation. Do not overtighten the screws in particular so as not to deform the housing of the thermorelay. The contacts of the thermal relay have a soldering layer. 5. In the proposed groups we use copper wires (refined copper OFC technology). Today, the most widely available metal with good conductivity characteristics is copper. Knowing that part of the EMF transferred from the thermocouple is always spent on heating the wire, we chose wires with minimal resistance to the signal (these are wires for speaker systems). The thinner or longer the wire, the higher its resistance. The signal will be transferred much better over thicker wires. 6. Heat shrink sleeve. “Shrunk” by 30%. It consists of two parts, each of which can wire as a sheath in places of contact with the boiler body. (ZHMZ requirement).7. KM-1-1 button. Normally Closed. In case of gas accumulation in the lower part of the chimney in case of a bad draft, the thermoplate deforms from the increased temperature and pushes the button. Thermoplate must be moved from the old Button. The button is fixed in its original position. Doesn’t like dampness and condensation. Soldering on the contacts of the button.
If the given scheme of actions helped not to freeze and solved the boiler operation problem. is already good. If the new group restored the stable operation of the boiler. it is excellent! So the purpose of the article has been achieved. Below are product cards with groups for all available boilers AOGV Zhukovsky plant with imported units to date. And also the thermostat and the KM button separately. Thank you for your attention!
ᐉ Automatics failures for the gas boiler EUROSIT 630 causes, troubleshooting
The Eurosit gas valve is one of the most used in the world. It can be found on both domestic and imported boilers. Main pluses: multi-function gas regulator, modulating thermostat and full modulating main burner on function. Runs from cylinders with liquefied fuel, and from a gas holder, without the use of electricity. Used in various types of gas-consuming equipment that require precise temperature control.
Basic principles of the Eurosite 630 automation.
Ignition of the ignition burner.
- Check that the position of the knob corresponds to the “off” sign.
- Turn the knob to the star position.
- Keep the knob pressed for a few seconds. Then release it and make sure that the ignition burner is on. If the ignition burner goes out. repeat point 3.
Set the temperature using the knob. Gas starts flowing into the main burner, where the ignition is activated by the pilot burner.
The thermostatic system regulates the gas flow and pressure in the main burner depending on the capillary sensor of the system. The colder the sensor, the greater the output and vice versa. The graph schematically shows how the power changes from maximum to minimum and then to the complete shutdown of the burner.
Turn the knob from the set temperature to the “star” position. Main burner goes out and the ignition burner remains lit.
Set the knob to “off” position. The damper closes completely, but the thermoelectric protection magnet stays temporarily activated until the thermocouple sensor cools. The thermoelectric system is prevented mechanically from restarting during this time. The function is called “interlogue”. It provides ventilation of the combustion chamber before the next start of the burner.
Overview of control unit models
The most popular models of automatics are Atos, Comfort Eco, Air and Tech. After getting acquainted with their features and characteristics, the choice is easy.
Polish-made device successfully combined with heating boilers of 25-50 kW capacity, of various designs and types. The unit is compact in size and intuitive in use. For the setting of all important parameters there is a dial with two digits. Output of a connected pump and fan is up to 130 W. Device allows to set temperature of heat-carrier in a range of 35-80 ⁰С, and in a room. in a range of 25-50 ⁰С. Alarm is triggered when the range is exceeded. Medium
Functional and affordable option produced in Ukraine. Allows connecting a circulation pump up to 450 W and a fan up to 220 W. This electronic device is easily adjustable, it ensures a reliable and rational operation of the heating equipment. User can adjust required temperature level and number of fan revolutions at any time. You can buy such a controller for 3500.
Functional and reliable controller made in Poland. Designed for operation with pumps and fans up to 200 kW. The case is made of practical materials with additional protection against overheating. Control of the entire boiler operation is very comfortable thanks to the extended keypad and LCD display.
for controllers for solid fuel boilers Tech
Controllers for solid fuel boilers Tech
Another compact and functional controller from the Polish manufacturer. Installed directly on the body of the heater, guaranteeing him protection against overheating and frost. Output of connecting circulation pump and fan. up to 300 W. Average
Why the burner can go out at all?
Boiler damping occurs as a result of triggering of the device automatics, which reacts to the following system malfunctions:
These processes can occur as a result of internal breakdowns, as well as due to external factors.
If we consider floor models (producers: Danko, Aton, ROSS, Zhitomir), they have a primitive internal design. Therefore, to break down in them, to understand, and especially there is nothing. Attenuation in this case occurs most often due to strong winds outside or other external factors.
And the gas boilers of wall type by their design already resemble an autonomous mini-boiler room, and therefore the options for stopping the gas boiler can be more:
- The circulation of the coolant was interrupted or did not start after repairing the circuit (the flow sensor reacts);
- the air supply is reduced/stopped (the pressostat is triggered);
- Voltage fluctuations occur;
- Power failure.
If the hinged heat generator goes out, it is not easy to restore its operation. However, some faults are still quite real to eliminate on their own forces. Learn how to do it below.
Repair of gas boilers: an overview of typical malfunctions and ways to fix them
Gas equipment is the most common option in the organization of autonomous heating. It is characterized by reasonable cost, economical fuel consumption and high efficiency. However, any technique has its lifetime and needs to be restored over time.
The simplest repair of the gas boiler can be done with your own hands. And with regular preventive measures, any owner must simply cope by himself or herself. We will tell you how to make your appliance work again and how to prolong its lifetime.
The solenoid valve is a shutoff valve, which directly affects the safety of the unit. It is mainly installed so that in the event of a malfunction, it shuts off the fuel supply. Gas heating emergencies can occur due to a variety of factors:
- drop in fuel pressure;
- Lack of liquid in the system (you can check the joints, three-way valve and pipes);
- draft deterioration;
- gas leakage.
Each of the problems described above is life-threatening and therefore further operation of the system is unacceptable. This is why the solenoid valve is triggered. Its original position. it is open. To close it, an electrical impulse is given from the thermocouple installed over the flame in the combustion chamber or on the chimney.
Immediately it should be said that this element is out of service extremely rarely, because it has a great potential for use. Despite this, there are still moments.
To check the performance of this valve can be checked in two ways:
- Fire. The used thermocouple is replaced with a new one. The automatics button is switched on. Then the igniter is ignited and the fire is brought to the end of the thermocouple. In this case, the automatics must trip.
- Instrumental. The sensor is removed from the body and a repair contact is inserted. It is supplied with a voltage of 3 to 6V. If the solenoid valve is intact. the automatics will work. Otherwise this element must be replaced.