Why is the fan slowly spinning
1) Good day to everyone.Faced with such a problem, the cooling fan began to spin slowly.What could be the reason.I looked at the mass of good, new sensor, norms of norms.VAZ 2110 carb. Question from: Nikolai Maltsev Separate topic: 2) Urgent: when the ignition is turned on on the VAZ 2106, the charger is burned out. What could be the question from: Alexander Sergienko separate topic: write the number of the question to which you answer! Authors of questions: be sure to write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев how you solved your problem!Why the fan began to spin slowly.
7 Комментарии и мнения владельцев and opinions of owners ON “Why the fan began to spin slowly. Faced with such a problem, the cooling fan began to spin slowly “
2) for no reason? Or did something, the battery changed, etc.P?
2, close. I had this several times because of the wire on the backing sensor on the checkpoint, on the five.A.Way it is next to the exhaust, and when the wire burns to the pipe, for some reason this fuse burns. Look there, or to an electrician
Slow turning speed Electric Fan repair and restoration
Look at the polarity, maybe the wrong direction is spinning.
1 you need to see the incoming voltage. If normal, then 2 options. Sliding bearing is dead or inter.Seal in the winding of the electric motor.
Good evening, can anyone tell you what the reason. The fan is slowly spinning. I throw off the chip from the fan on.
Ordinary floor fan, three speeds.
Somehow weak he began to blow, what could be the reason and what to do in this situation?
There are many reasons here, it can be constructive features, more precisely, we are talking about the blades of the floor fan.
Ceiling Fan Spinning Slow Repair. Easy DIY Fix
There are budget models that are initially poorly blowing, the flow of air “chases” in a circle, and not thrown out, this is due to the configuration of the blades (or the blades are deformed), here you will not do anything.
Changing the shape of the blades, or changing the number of blades will not be easier to buy a new fan and immediately in the store check how efficiently it blows.
Although of course you can replace only the impeller, it is extremely difficult to find such a spare part for a specific fan model.
Perhaps the fan blades and the protective grill are covered with dust, the protective casing must be dismantled, it is sophisticated.
The blades are also cleaned of dust, it is even better to wash the blades with any non.Abrasive detergent for dishes, all work is performed with the fan turned off, that is, remove the fork from the outlet.
Floor fans (lobed) have several speeds, perhaps one of them has failed and you cannot increase the number of runs of the fan.
Perhaps the rooms are too hot, the fan works fine, but you do not feel a stream of chilled air.
The only negative, you will often have to change the ice in bottles, it quickly melts in the heat.
Perhaps a fan has not been lubricated for a long time, it is enough to remove the protective casing and drop a couple of drops of oil on the shaft on which the blades (impeller) are fixed, I lubricate this way
When breaking the household fan, both desktop and floor, do not rush to immediately take it into repair, and even more so throw it away. Most likely, a simple problem has arisen, and you can repair the fan yourself.
Increase/decrease in the speed of rotation of coolers
In general, on a modern computer (laptop), the speed of rotation of the coolers sets the motherboard based on data from temperature sensors (t.E. The higher it is. The faster the coolers ☝) and the download data begin to rotate.
The parameters from which the mat is repelled. The board, usually you can set in BIOS.
☝ What is the speed of rotation of the cooler is measured
It is measured in revolutions per minute. This indicator is indicated as RPM (By the way, they measure all mechanical devices, for example, the same hard drives).
As for the cooler, the optimal rotation speed is usually about 1000-3000 RPM. But this is a very average meaning, and to say the exact one what needs to be exposed. You cannot. This parameter strongly depends on the type of your cooler, for which it is used, on the temperature of the room, on the type of radiator, etc. Moments.
Ways how to adjust the speed of rotation:
- In the BIOS settings (how to enter it). This method is not always justified, t.To. In BIOS, you need to go to change certain parameters (t.E. Spend time, and change values are often required quickly). In addition, automatic adjustment technologies (such as Q-FAN, CPU FAN CONTROL, FAN MONITOR, FAN OPTIMIZE and T.D.). Do not always work optimally (promoting the cooler to the maximum where it is unnecessary).
- Physically disconnect the noisy cooler or install a reobas (special. A device that allows you to regulate the rotation of the cooler). This option is also not always justified: either turn off the cooler, then turn on (when you need), not the best undertaking. The same Reobas. Extra expenses, and not on every computer you will install it;
Cooler’s blades are poorly rotated
In the case when the fan does not pull and poorly drives the air, you will need to disassemble the case in which the motor is located. Sometimes the fact that the propeller does not spin can signal the lubrication insufficiency in the sliding bearing installed in the electric motor.
Dismantling the fan is as follows.
- First you need to unscrew the protective grid (its front part) and remove it.
- After the grid, disconnect the propeller. He can be screwed to the shaft of the motor with a nut with left thread. That is, to unscrew the nut, rotate it clockwise, and for its twisting it is counterclockwise.
- Remove the rear protective net by unscrewing another nut.
- Unscrew all the fasteners holding the casing of the unit. Sometimes in the handle to adjust the rotation of the case there is another bolt. If it is not unscrewed, it will not work to remove the motor casing.
- Now, the engine is open, drip a few drops of machine oil (it is better to use spindle oil) on the sleeve (indicated by the red arrow) and turn the shaft several times in different directions so that the lubricant is absorbed inside.
- After this procedure, a slight rotation of the shaft resumes. Collect the motor body in the reverse order.
- Turn on the unit and check the air flow strength.
Search for fan faults and ways to eliminate them
To reduce the cost and achieve a low noise level during operation in the fan electric motors, sliding bearings are installed. As a result, after a couple of years of operation, the lubricant is produced, and this is the most common cause of fan breakdowns.
| External manifestation of a malfunction | Possible cause of the malfunction | Search for a malfunction | Repair method |
| The ventilator after a while after normal operation turns off and after time it turns on again | A self.Healing thermal subject is triggered from overheating of windings | Check the freedom of rotation of the impeller, disassemble the fan and inspect the stator windings for blackening | Lubricate bearings, rewind the winding |
| The fan turns on, but the blades rotate slowly | Lubricant thickened or developed in the bearberry bearings | With insufficient lubrication of bearings when working, the fan makes an increased acoustic noise and the smell of burner may appear from the overheating of the winding of the electric motor | It is necessary to disassemble the fan and grease the sliding bearings with machine oil |
| Mechanical wear of the electric motor bearings due to lack of lubrication. In this case, the vibration of the impeller is often observed regarding the center of rotation | Shake the impeller relative to the center to the sides. If the backlash is more than 0.5 mm, then the bearing is worn out | Replace the bearing new | |
| The fan does not start, the blades do not rotate | The cord is not inserted into the outlet | Check | Insert a cord fork into a socket |
| No voltage in the outlet | Check the presence of voltage in the outlet using a serviceable electrical appliance | Connect the fan to a serviceable outlet | |
| The network cord is faulty | Check with an external inspection fork and cord for mechanical damage, check the integrity of the cord wires with a multimeter | In case of malfunction, replace the network fork or cord | |
| The switch or speed switch is faulty. The battery was discharged in the control panel | You need to open the fan and rush the circuit breaker by the multimeter. When the position is turned on, the resistance between the contacts of the switch should be zero | In the event of a circuit breaker malfunction, replace it. If not at hand, then you can shorten the contacts of the circuit breaker, and turn off the fan removed the plug out of the outlet | |
| The fan when turned on buzzes and heats up | Jammed the rotor shaft due to the production or thickening lubrication | Disassemble the fan, rinse the solvent and grease the bearings | |
| The fan when turned on buzzes and heats up | Blog of the launch winding or capacitor. | Take the impeller with your hand, if you are ovar, then replace the codester or try to find the place of the start of the starting winding | |
| Cliff of the rotor windings | Check with an external examination of the winding for the presence of mechanical damage and local darkening, check the integrity of the windings with a multimeter | If the winding of the winding could not be found by an external inspection, then it will be necessary to rewind it that it is economically impractical | |
| The heat.Guide thermal guide from overheating of the electric motor due to its malfunction worked | Check the integrity of the heat.Guide by the multimeter. His resistance should be zero. For verification in the absence of the device, its conclusions can be temporarily shabby | If thermal guide is found, then replace it with good. If the new thermal forefront again blocks with the short operation of the fan, then the electric motor is faulty |
For reliable operation of the fan, it is recommended to disassemble it before each season of operation and lubricate the bearings with machine oil. But no one does it, including me. They usually make grease when the blades stopped rotating or the fan began to make a lot of noise.
Diagnosis of malfunctions
There are 2 types of fault and desktop fans-mechanical and electric. It is to the first simple layman that does not pay much attention, and this leads to a breakdown in the electrical part of the device. For example, if the shaft is jammed, and the equipment continues to work, then this will undoubtedly cause overheating of the electric motor. If the bearing is spent, then the stator winding will be damaged in the future.
Before diagnosing the fan at home, turn off the device from power supply. The unit often does not turn on due to a malfunction of the cord or socket, so first of all, any other device is connected to the power supply. If it does not turn on, then the culprit is a socket that needs to be fixed.
To inspect the internal equipment of the fan, disassemble it, acting according to the following scheme:
Since the breakdown is often associated with a lack of lubrication, be sure to drop a few drops of technological oil on the sleeve.
Take the shaft first in one, then in the other direction for better absorption of lubricants. After that, collect the fan in the opposite direction, turn on the device and check for performance.
Clearly about how to disassemble the fan and conduct diagnostics of malfunctions, see this
Mechanical malfunctions
To detect malfunctions of the mechanical part of the fan device, pay attention to the following manifestations:
- Extraneous sounds (noise, whistles, creaks, etc. P.);
- Slow speed of rotation of the blades during operation;
- Difficulties with the rotation of the propeller when the fan is turned off.
Problems in the electric part
The malfunction in the electrician is manifested by the following signs:
- The smell of burning;
- The impossibility of starting the unit;
- Slowing down the speed of the propeller mechanism with the device turned on;
- The operation of automatic protective circuit breakers (if they are provided).
PS (if the fan makes half a turn and PC does not turn on at all)
Another type of problem: when turning on PC. The fan for cooling the CPU makes 1-3 turns and stops (while the PC does not show signs of “life”, you can not enter even BIOS. There is no image).
In this case, the list of potential problems is so wide that I do not think that it can be described in the framework of one article. First, I would advise you to do the following:
-
Take out all the dicks of the RAM, clean their contacts with an eraser and blow out the slots from dust. Install one of them (not yet connect the rest);
Dismantling a laptop for access to a cooling system
To be able to dismantle the cooling system, you need to disassemble the laptop. In most cases, approximately one algorithm of action works, but the dismantling of some elements may differ in different models. So, in modern laptops, the keyboard is usually attached to a special panel with plastic latches. But on some devices it can be screwed with screws, both to the upper and back cover.
In most cases, the dismantling procedure is as follows:
When the cooler is very dirty, at the same time you need to clean the entire cooling system, for which you have to remove the radiator. Keep in mind that in this case, when assembling a laptop, you will need a new thermal package and, possibly, fresh thermal layers. Otherwise, when the laptop is turned on, even with a clean cooling system, you will notice that it did not stop overheating.
Closing windings or wiring
If the damage is more complex and simple lubrication does not help, you will have to disassemble the fan in more detail.
First you do all the fraud on disassembly as indicated above. After removing the propeller, unscrew the plastic front counter.Gaming, which is located immediately behind him, and throw off the entire protective frame.
In your hands you have the engine itself and the leg in which the power wires pass and the button mechanism is located.
Distribution of this leg, having unscrewed 6 screws.
First of all, check the rations of the wires. It is possible one of them, or even somewhat fell off or burned out.
If everything is intact, how to understand which wire goes where and what is responsible for? Start checking with two wires from a fork for a power plug.
One of them, let it be black (as in the photo below), through the lighting light goes directly to the fan engine.
The second wire enters the lower terminal of the outline switch (button 0).
Further, by pressing the corresponding buttons-1st speed, 2nd, 3rd, certain contacts of the switch are closed, and thereby the engine speed changes.
Each wire from these buttons goes to its conclusion on the winding, with a larger or smaller number of turns. Giving tension to them, you make the propeller spin faster or slower.
Failure to thermo.Guard relay
Having removed the bearing, you get to the windings themselves. Among the bundle of power wires coming from the switch, look for a special thermmorle.
Very often the engine stops working after its burning. This relay should work and open the chain at a temperature of the windings of 135-145 degrees.
After cooling, the relay closes again and the fan starts. So, sometimes it blocks completely and actually plays the role of the fuse.
If your fan is often disconnected and starts to start on its own, it is precisely this protection that is to blame. Know that it doesn’t work just like that. This means that you either shave the shaft, or it comes to an end to the windings and they overheat.
Overheating of windings can be associated with the destruction of a small impeller, which stands on the shaft inside the engine itself. It is designed to blow and reduce the temperature of the turns.
In the cheapest models, a thermal attenter-relay is not put, everything is connected directly in them. Based on this, if your “thermal object” burned down, it can of course be made and launched and launched by the wind. But at the same time you will be left without protection against fire.
