Gas cylinder burner with their own hands: schemes, drawings, step by step guide
Many private households have an old gas cylinder. From this object, you can make many useful things, for example, an uncomplicated heating device.
If there is a desire and a welder, then the gas cylinder burner with his hands can be made without much trouble. Of course, some additional materials will be needed.
Instructions for making
Horizontal and vertical versions of this device have become popular with users. But there are design features that remain common to all models.
The basic list of materials is as follows:
- Steel corners.
- Sheet metal at least 3 millimeters thick.
- A chimney to carry the remains of rocket and other fuels through.
Building a wood stove from a gas cylinder
Four door hinges are purchased separately at construction stores. From additional tools masters will be useful:
- Grinding machine with various types of discs.
- Drills with sets of drills.
- Welding machine.
- Hammer, chisels, pliers. It is possible to make the tools themselves.
Cut off the top from propane cylinders in any case. This is where the valve is located. Locations of the furnace and ash drawer with the chimney are marked with a marker. Marked areas are cut out, then they can be set aside, this is not the end of the process of working off.
For the grate is marked, cut into parts reinforcing bars. Weld the workpieces using a special apparatus designed for this work. The next stage includes the installation of the hinges, with the previously cut parts.
The spigot is welded to the hole in the cylinder for the chimney. Then the pipes will be connected to it. Four legs are fastened from a corner, then additionally mount everything underneath. The ready made oven is assembled, the chimney is installed.
Pay attention! Usually this is done at a slight angle, then the heat output increases, according to the drawing.
The main thing is to follow the fire safety rules. The minimum distance to the walls is not regulated by standards when it comes to bricks and other varieties of materials that are not combustible. 50 cm is the minimum required distance between the body of the stove and any materials that support combustion.
Plants, exterior walls of glass, too, should not be near the burzhuyka.
The floors are necessarily covered with metal sheets when it comes to wood. On the side of the furnace, this part must protrude at least 700 mm. The nearest walls are also lined with metal.
Calculating the parameters: drawings and recommendations
You should start with the selection of the starting material. 50-liter gas cylinder is ideal.
Its dimensions: 300 mm in diameter, 850 mm in height with 4 mm metal wall.
Such cylinders are commonly used in a wide range of applications, from cooking stove fuel to industrial applications.
The main parameters and features of the manufacture of the stove:
- Chimney is usually made from a pipe with a cross section of 100-125 mm with a wall of 3-4 mm;
- Place it vertically, perhaps with a slight deviation of 25-350;
- The firebox and ash-pan are equipped with doors, which must be locked to improve heat transfer during burning of fuel and for fire-prevention purposes; the doors are also used for adjustment of air supply;
- it is important that the firebox should be deep enough for firewood of a comfortable size;
- grates are necessary for stacking of fuel and separation of ash and coals in the furnace;
- weld them better from the most durable and heat-resistant material, such as rebar thickness of 12-15 mm;
- their length must match the inner diameter of the body of the cylinder, this grid usually has a mesh or gap with a spacing of 10-15 mm;
- To make your wood-burning stove warm and properly stoked, it is built according to the principle of an ordinary wood-burning stove.
Features of the stove long combustion
The first thing to understand is what happens during the combustion of firewood. For a flame to appear it is necessary to bring the temperature of wood to about 150 degrees, using for this purpose an external source of heating. Usually a piece of paper lit with a match will suffice for this. After that the process of slow charring of material begins, which after reaching the 250 degree mark turns into the decomposition of simple chemical elements. The white smoke that appears when the flame is lit is composed of gas and water vapor: these are emitted by the heated wood. The gaseous components released ignite when they reach a temperature of 300 degrees: as a result, the thermo-chemical reaction is greatly accelerated.
The breakdown of organic matter into simple elements is called pyrolysis. Practice shows that during the burning of wood a part of its energy potential remains unused. This is reflected in a significant amount of waste left after the flame goes out. Pyrolysis furnaces use fuel much more efficiently, which is achieved by separate combustion of gases released during the combustion of fuel. The wood itself smolders at a very slow speed, which increases the operating time on a single charge. The Bubafonja oven, which is a kind of pyrolytic heater, guarantees almost complete combustion of all fuel.
No parts of the chimney must be installed near the main source of heat!
When making such heating equipment as a cylinder-based stove or bubafonny, it is worth paying attention to some important points:
- Some parts of the chimney flue mount strictly in the opposite direction from the one in which the gas flows.
- Before making a stove, it is necessary to decide on the place of its installation, so that the surrounding space will necessarily be able to withstand a sufficiently high temperature regime.
- The chimney must be designed in such a way that even after a long time, it will be possible to disassemble it in order to clean it.
- Before you start up a boilermaker or a cylinder long combustion stove, you must first test the device. This process is desirable to carry out in different modes. This is required in order to find the optimum temperature mode and operation of the equipment.
Choice of cylinder and materials
The body for the stove is made from an old empty gas cylinder. For efficient operation and high heat output of the construction you need to decide on the size of the tank. A small room can be heated using a five-liter cylinder. Small stoves with small power are made from a container of the size of 12 to 30 liters.
Stove from a gas cylinder. a great solution for heating your garage
The industrial one (40L) has thick walls, and the inner diameter is too small to put enough fuel. The optimal variant is a propane 50-liter tank with a height of 85 cm and a diameter of 30 cm.
The cylinder is carefully prepared before work:
- unscrew the valve and leave the tank for a day to release the remainder of the gas;
- then turn it over and pour the condensate into an unnecessary container;
- The cylinder is filled with water, hold it for several hours;
- pour out the water.
The remaining propane must be removed from the tank, otherwise during welding the cylinder can explode. In addition, you need to prepare some materials and tools:
- pipe for the chimney;
- Steel sheets with a thickness of at least 3 mm;
- reinforcing bars;
- metal corners;
- pliers, a chisel and a hammer;
- apparatus for welding;
- a drill with drills.
Steel is used to make the doors for the furnace, fittings are needed to create the grates. If there is no possibility to make these details for the stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands, you can buy ready-made elements in specialized stores.
In this video, more about burzhuyka from a cylinder:
Furnace from propane tanks
I will tell you how I made a simple stove-burner From propane tanks in my garage. Looking ahead to say that in making the furnace, I have not spent a penny, because all was or found.
I am not a copyright holder, because I got the idea of this construction from someone on youtube.
So, the scrap metal in the garage, let’s do it: Marked marker on the cylinders of the line of cutting and future lids. Cut the cylinders should be filled with water. And there’s no other way! To unscrew the valve you need to have in the garage locksmith’s vise, which I do not have. Or clamp it somewhere. As a result, the car came in handy as a vise. The valves were fiercely unscrewed with a Soviet gas wrench using a meter rusty pipe; then we fill the cylinders with water from the river earlier and cut. И We’re not afraid of anything. And preferably outdoors. And the water after cutting to drain somewhere away. Because the stench from the drained water after cuttingpapa concrete))
Next, we just cut, spark a grinder’s wife ♪ the way we’re supposed to ♪ and make blanks out of the sheet metal from the garden. then take the previously found hinges and profile pipe 15×15 in the garage in the father-in-law and weld the lids of the furnace.
Then we take the same profile, nuts, washers, bolts M8 from the garage storeroom, round bar d12, broken off from the fence and proceed to make oven door “accessories
and then you put it all together. The bottom part is done. We are doing the same decoration with the upper part. Then the main thing is to weld the whole thing together. And preferably not crooked.
The legs I made from the corners, found in the father in law in the garage. The cylinders themselves came from the village
When the design was welded and stood on its feet, it was immediately visible flaws: loose fit covers. doors of the furnace. First, I had some round bar welded inside, which was used to be a pipe for pepper. It turned out good, but not tight enough; I took the same round bar and welded it around the body of the furnace. Now the lid closes tightly and kind of goes inside this groove.
Next, we take a 16-yu rebar from the tomato garter and cook the grate. I tried to weld it with electrodes (I weld with a semiautomatic machine), because the metal is very thick. Next, my eyes in the garden was found a rusty strip of “tin” 12 mm thick., which I put under the takeoff and landing pad for the kettle.
Once you have made the firebox, you need to test it in action. The first heating will show all the defects. It is imperative to preheat the stove before you paint it. The test is carried out in the following order:
- We light the stove with a little fuel. The first stage takes 30-40 minutes.
- If the smoke is nowhere to be seen, next time we make a full load and heat the stove. Our goal is to burn off the old paint.
If there is smoke penetrating somewhere, these places need to be sealed. After the test, the stove should be covered with heat-resistant paint.
Warm and cozy in the garage or make a propane tank stove
Greetings dear reader or passing stranger!
Today I will tell you how I made a simple propane gas stove in my garage. Getting ahead of myself, I will say that I did not spend a single ruble in making the stove, because everything was. Here we go..
In 2016, when doing bodywork on my VAZ 2121, I did a little I learned the principles of welding semi-automatic welding. I had the bodywork welded by a neighbor in the garage. The desire to learn metal welding I liked, I somehow began to surf the net and choose myself a welder. There were 3 contenders out of the models: Aurora, Redwerg and Cedar. But somehow after reading and watching reviews, I still bought a Svarog Real Mig 200 back in the spring of 2018. 5 years warranty! I chose this machine because it is a semi-automatic, but there is a function of MMA welding, which is also good. At first I tried to learn how to weld some x useful things, then welded doughnuts Hoes, spades, pitchforks, rakes. and so on. And this summer it completely hit me: I have a garage, I have a welder, and in the fall and winter I bark in the semi-cold with an electric heater. And after surfing the Internet on the subject of heating, I decided to weld stove! That’s just where to get the metal?! After a revision in my father-in-law’s garage and in his country house, the idea came to me immediately. from balloons. I do not claim the copyright, because the very construction of this stove I saw on someone in Youtube. Who would be interested, I’ll find the link
So, September, the garden is dug up, now we can do the stove. Marked the cut lines and future lids on the cylinders with a marker. You have to cut the cylinders with water in them. There’s no other way! To unscrew the valve, you need to have a locksmith’s vise in the garage, which I have no. Or clamped somewhere. In the end the car came in handy as a vise. The valves were fiercely unscrewed with the Soviet gas wrench using a meter rusty pipe with diameter of 40 mm. as a lever; then we fill the cylinders with previously brought water from the river and cut. And nothing to be afraid of. And preferably outdoors. And the water after the cutting pour out somewhere far away. Because the stench from the water after cuttingpapa concrete))
Next, we simply cut, sparked by the wife of a bolt cutter as We need and make blanks from the previously found from the garden sheet metal.