What breakdowns do Nord refrigerators have

Refrigerator Nord relay repair

Ukrainian company “Nord” is a major supplier of refrigerators in Europe. It is attributed to the enterprises of the full cycle, that is, the company’s specialists independently carry out work at all stages of production of household appliances. Development of models, manufacturing parts, devices and tools, assembly, packaging and implementation. all this is provided by the forces of one industrial company.

Nord household appliances note:

  • compliance with all international standards;
  • prevalence in the CIS and beyond its borders;
  • quality;
  • duration of the operational period;
  • improved technology;
  • manufacturing from environmentally friendly materials;
  • wide range;
  • reliability.

Nord refrigerators are an optimal compromise between quality, availability and acceptable cost.

Electric circuit of the refrigerator Nord

The unit diagram contains elements such as a compressor motor, a lighting lamp combined with a switch, a two type of heater (thaw and crosseships), a thermostat, an engine and a launcher, in some models, only the starting of the starting.

Scheme of the two.compressor refrigerator Nord

After connecting the refrigerator to the network, the electric current passes through the contacts of the thermostat (closed), as a result of which the motor-compressor receives such a necessary voltage. The Nord Unit begins to function. The lighting turns on when the door is opened and returns to the previous mode after it is closed.

The start.up relay is responsible for preventing compressor overheating and excess of its performance. When such a danger arises, the starting element simply turns off the motor. The thawing regimen is activated if the contacts are in the open state. The heater of the crossbar does not change the operating mode throughout the cycle. This avoids problems due to moisture.

Types of launcher relay

Despite the variety of external performance, in modern refrigerators, two main types of launch protection relay are used:

  • Current. Work upon reaching a certain value of the current current. A normally working motor consumes a given current. When overheating of the engine, the current consumed increases sharply, the device works and breaks the circuit, turning off the engine. After cooling the motor, the device resumes its operation.
  • Tokovo-heat. Trigger both when the current value is reached, and when the given temperature is reached. While the engine consumes a normal current, the spiral through which it passes is subject to slight heating and does not affect the bimetallic plate. The higher the current current, the more he heats the spiral. It heats the sensitive plate, it changes its shape so much that it leads to the opening of the contacts through which the electric motor is written.

In the current-heat devices, temperature growth leads to a change in the shape of the bimetallic plate. It is welded from two plates, the metals of which have a different coefficient of thermal expansion. When heated, the bimetallic plate is bending and opens the contact group, turning off the electric motor. After the engine has cooled down, the plate returns to the original form and closes the contact groups, starting the engine again. In addition to the thermal protection circuit, the engine turns on and is also disconnected by the thermostat.

The plate is heated in various ways:

The start.up device also carries out the function of starting the electric motor. To do this, for a short time, a large start.up current is supplied to the engine winding, and after the rotor is folding and starting its rotation, the current is reduced to working values.

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Outwardly the device looks like a small box fixed on the compressor casing.

  • Two contacts. phase 220 volts and Earth. Used on synchronous electric motors.
  • Three contacts: launch winding, working winding and earth. Such designs are used on asynchronous electric motors.

Contacts are distinguished by the color of the cables passing to them.

Induction relay of the DHR type are fixed on the refrigerator frame and designed to control the motor-compressors such as DHM. A strong permanent magnet is placed to increase the speed and disconnecting of the engine next to the plate. When the plate, curving under the influence of heat, enters the magnet attraction zone, it attracts it, accelerating the operation. The attraction of the magnet also gives extra time to cool the overheated motor. The cooled plate overcomes the attraction of the magnet and closes the contacts.

RTP type relay has a lower operation current and lower dimensions. It does not require fixing on the frame and is mounted directly on the wires.

You can check the serviceability of a launcher relay by an ohmmeter, multimeter or other available measuring device. The working device has zero resistance between contacts. If the resistance is endless. the device is faulty and it must be changed.

The start.up device works in a single electrical circuit with a thermostat.

The refrigerator user manual indicates which devices can be used for each specific model. This allows you to choose a suitable replacement device, if exactly the same as failed, will be inaccessible.

How to remove relay from the refrigerator

Before starting any repair work, you should make sure that the refrigerator is disconnected from the network and the fork is taken out of the outlet. Non.compliance with this rule can lead to severe damage by electric shock.

RTP type relay is removed by simple disconnection of contacts. If the refrigerator is not new, the contacts can be oxidized and “click” in this case should be picked up in the connector with a thin flat screwdriver, sighed, and then gradually move the connector until the contact plate is completely released.

To remove the part from the refrigerator, you should first determine the way to install it. The following methods are used:

First, the connectors are disconnected. Next, the fastening relay screws are unscrewed. If the device is fixed with rivets, they should be carefully drilled at small speeds of a drill or electric screwdriver. Experts recommend fixing a new device on screws.

Important! Immediately after disconnecting the contacts, march the wires. This is especially important on old refrigerators, where the wires can darken from time to time or change their color.

The latches are squeezed with flat screwdrivers to the release of the relay. At the same time, caution must be observed, especially on old refrigerators, since over time the plastic of the latch becomes fragile.

The device of the refrigerator “Nord

Each two.chamber refrigerator “Nord” has one compressor that escaces the cold. The heated refrigerant under pressure is fed into the capacitor, where it is converted from a gaseous state into a liquid one and when it hits the evaporator, it takes heat from the refrigerator chamber. The device has a sealed refrigerator unit. The freezer in the refrigerators “Nord” can have an upper or lower placement. Units meet all the requirements of sanitary and environmental safety. The compressor of the refrigerator accumulates pressure, which exceeds, for example, pressure in the home water supply up to eight times. The evaporator can accumulate condensate and requires defrosting. Modern models are ensured by the forced exposure of the evaporator, which guarantees their dryness, and such refrigerators do not need to defrost.

The advantages of a two.chamber refrigerator

When choosing a refrigerator, you should pay attention to the number of cameras. What are the advantages of a device with two cameras? Nord two.chamber refrigerator has a large capacity and allows you to store products even for a large family. The dimensions of the freezer department can vary, so you can choose the required volume. Fans of fans of large reserves of frozen products are suitable for units with large freezers of three boxes, a small freezer will be enough for the usual current storage. The advantage of two.chamber devices is better storage. When opening a common chamber, warm air does not fall into the frost zone. In a separate freezer chamber, foods are frozen faster and preserve the nutritional properties better. The ability to configure each camera is another undoubted advantage of such devices.

The simplified diagram of the refrigerator “Nord” of the two.chamber includes eight main elements:

  • Compressor.
  • Thermal circuit.
  • Capacitor, he is a coil.
  • Filter.
  • Capillary tube (small section).
  • The evaporator of the refrigerator.
  • Evaporator of the freezer.
  • Vasic tube.

The scheme is clearly presented in the figure. Different models of refrigerators do not have fundamental differences in the scheme. Most often, the differences are associated with the internal equipment of the device. Traditionally, zones with high humidity for storing fruits and vegetables are released inside the refrigerator, special compartments are equipped. for bottles or eggs, for example. Also, more and more often in modern devices a special cooling zone is distinguished, in which you can store meat or fish for several days.

Ways to eliminate malfunctions and breakdowns of the Nord refrigerator

How to check and replace the thermostat in the Nord refrigerator

I will devote this article to completely, the repair of a two.chamber refrigerator, and about a single.chamber, we’ll talk, as it were later, in the section of the repair of a single.chamber refrigerator (see the site menu). Before starting the repair of the Nord refrigerator, it is necessary to make the correct diagnosis of a malfunction, this unit. First of all, I want to talk about the thermostat, namely about the signs that indicate its breakdown

My refrigerator Nord, until recently, worked normally, but just the other day it completely melted, and not only the refrigerator melted, but also the freezer. A light bulb burns inside the refrigerator, but the motor does not start, I sin on the engine start relay. Tell me, maybe there is still some reason

It is possible to fail the motor relay, as well as the engine itself could burn out, but for starters, it is necessary to check the thermostat. To do this, you need to get to the thermostat, from 2 to 4 wires should approach it. First of all, pay attention to whether there is a green wire with a yellow strip, it happens and vice versa a yellow wire with a green strip → This wire must be removed to the side, this is a ground wire. Disconnect these wires from the thermostat and closed all the wires among themselves, except green with a yellow strip. Thus, you will connect the motor to a straight line, that is, without a thermostat. As a result, with the help of such a simple test, you can check not only the work of the thermostat, but also the relay, as well as the engine. If the compressor starts, then the thermostat is unsuitable and must be replaced. Below I suggest watching a video that I was shot, just about this

On the video above, I change the thermostat, on the two.chamber Nord refrigerator, the old.style. In modern refrigerators, the thermostat usually stands at the top under the lid and in colds such as Atlant, Indesit and Nord, it changes almost the same. Below you can watch another video about the replacement of this part, but in this video the temperature adjustment mechanism is at the top

Now you can add these videos by comment. Now I want to list the signs that indicate a malfunction of the thermostat

  • The refrigerator does not turn off → This malfunction is not always associated with the thermostat, but as the law the culprit of this behavior, there is usually a freon leak. In the old refrigerators, where the crying evaporator was bred in the outside, as in the first video, the reason that the compressor does not turn off, usually becomes a fastener. The fact is that it is attached with two self.tapping screws or bolts, and they tend to rust, as a result, this bar disappears from the corps of the crying evaporator. As a result, the thermostat tube does not fit tightly to the evaporator and because of this the refrigerator cannot turn off
  • The refrigerator does not turn on → Everything is simple here, it is necessary to do, then what, I talked about at the very beginning of the article, that is, to change contacts on the thermostat, just do not forget to remove the green wire with a yellow strip to the side
  • The refrigerator motor is very rarely turned on → Usually, this also indicates a malfunction of the thermostat. Do everything the same thing that I wrote in the previous paragraph, but do not turn off the refrigerator for two hours and see how the rear wall fierce in the refrigerator, if it is completely covered with hoarfrost and the temperature in this department is no higher than 5-6 degrees, then it is necessary Replace the thermostat

In principle, I told the main signs, now you can begin to consider such a question as Freon’s leakage

Nord refrigerator does not freeze

The first thing that comes to mind on this is, of course, Freon’s leak. Refrigerators with the upper location of the freezer, in which case are not repaired, with the exception of the old ones, where it was possible to pull the freezer out of the case. In general, we will talk, only about those units whose freezer is below and first we list the signs of the refrigerant leakage from the system

  • The freezer is very free
  • Cold disappeared in the refrigerator
  • Does not freeze in both chambers
  • Cold capacitor → This is a metal grill that stands behind the refrigerator
  • Ice intention on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment
  • The compressor does not turn off

I have listed almost all the signs that indicate a freon leak. For complete confidence, you need to do the following procedure. First of all, completely defrost the refrigerator, then turn it on for 2 hours and be sure to put a street thermometer in the refrigerator, during this time the doors should be closed in both chambers, that is, you cannot open them. After 2/2.5 hours, look at the temperature in the refrigerator, if it is higher than 6-7 degrees of heat, then 100% we are talking about leakage of the freon or a clogged caplicarka. Below I posted a video in which I show the installation of a crying evaporator in a refrigerator. Only in this way, you can eliminate the refrigerant leakage in the system

I have a two.chamber refrigerator Nord, the freezer is located at the top. In general, the problem is that it ceased to be disconnected, and in the corner of the refrigerator, a block of ice was formed, in the rest of the posterior wall, droplets of water are visible and they flow into a groove for draining. They called the masters, he came, touched something from behind, opened the refrigerator and said that there was a leak. The most important thing is that the master said that these refrigerators are not repaired in such cases, that is, they are disposable. Please explain, is it true that they are disposable and how the master could determine the leakage of Freon, in 5 minutes. I have doubts about the qualifications of a given subject, because as far as I know, I need to at least lower the gas in order to accurately make sure of the diagnosis

If the refrigerator does not turn off It doesn’t work easier

We caught on at the end of the month when they looked at the counter. Instead of ordinary 140, 230 kW wound. And only then they noticed: and the refrigerator is hammering and hammering. Topic of today’s lesson: “Replacing the thermostat of the refrigerator Nord“. Three.chamber. I don’t know the model. I didn’t find a passport. But a thermostat or a thermostat or a thermalrala. who likes it more. is in every refrigerator. No, of course, there are features of placing an automation unit. But the thermostats themselves, often the same model. And models of those. once, two and expected. One of the most popular thermostats is 133. I discovered it, having broken off the automation unit before going to the bazaar for new. Why the thermostat? Right. The reasons for the compressor is different. But in the freezer everything was frozen, and from Kvass, standing in a large cell, their teeth flashed. over, both cameras were evenly covered with hoar. And this means that the Freon in the system, nothing has leaked and did not clog. Now fine. Another thing is that the compressor, due to decent age in such heat, could not provide the temperature necessary to turn off the relay. The standard there is 133 for this you need minus ten. I enlarged the relay to zero. the compressor did not turn off. By the way, you know where the cold comes from in the refrigerator? Freon boils (passes from liquid to a gaseous state) with heat absorption. Remember the school curriculum? Endothermic reaction. For example, like a fixation, which, dissolving, is cold. At the exit from the evaporator (an aluminum plane with internal tubes. well, what the hoarfrost is intended for. High.quality evaporators are always enameled.) Freon is in a gaseous state. The compressor picks it up and increases the pressure, which leads to an increase in temperature. Then Freon runs along the loops of the capacitor, cooling and condensing. And finally, a working moment. Liquid freon enters the evaporator. There, his pressure drops sharply, and he boils, taking heat from the air washing the evaporator. The circle closed. Freon is filled and thermostat. Its long capillary tube passes in the cable channel along the side wall of the refrigerator and is attached with a special clamping bar to the posterior wall of the evaporator. You need to pay attention to this bar. Whether it was untwisted? The contact of the capillary and evaporator should be dense. Our “Nord” had a capillary tube in Cambrick (plastic tube). There is an opinion on the refrigerator forums that Cambrics in this contact is superfluous. Like, moisture, corrosion, thermal conductivity of Cambrics I agreed and left the new capillary at the place of fastening without Cambrick. How the thermostat works? The capillary tube filled with freon (and sealed) is connected to the sylphone. Sylphone is such a corrugated metal spray. He can be squeezed out, like an accordion. Freon, evaporating in the heat exchanger, cools the capillary clad. The pressure in the bellows is slowly falling until it squeezes so much that the contacts will open. Well, vice versa. The compressor is still silent, the temperature in the refrigerator rises, the pressure in the belliphon rises and the pressure. It is unclenched and through the lever closes contacts. The compressor is cut. Probably not only compressors are aged, but also thermostats. I mean, perhaps mine did not break. Contacts are intact, Freon did not run away. But now, in order to open the chain even on a minimum adjustment, he already needs as much frost as we do not have. And autumn, although soon, but you don’t want something to take risks, waiting. This is based on all these thoughts, I went to the bazaar. We do not buy right away. We go from the seller to the seller, shaking the received information. WTO

There are many reasons why the refrigerator is constantly working and does not turn off

Citizens often wonder why the refrigerator is constantly working and does not turn off even after a few hours. The reason for this may be factory marriage, prolonged external physical impact and violation of the rules of operation of equipment. Regardless of this, it is necessary to act quickly, otherwise the changes that have arisen will acquire an irreversible character. First you need to reduce the mode of operation of the refrigerator and conduct its inspection.

The home refrigerator does not turn off: what to do

Opens a list of reasons why the refrigerator is constantly working and does not turn off, a faulty relay or thermostat. The devices responsible for the temperature background are not physically able to objectively assess the current temperature regime. As a result of this, the technique does not decide the cooling insufficiency. Other reasons relate to breakdown or factory marriage, board or thermal circuit.

If the refrigerator is constantly working, then the reason may lie in the incorrect operation of the compressor or controlling thermostat

Regardless of the manufacturer, both devices are present in the device. Their goal is to control the need for cold.

If, as in the first case, their breakdown occurs, the unit of the brand “Indesit” or “Stinol” begins to produce too much or little cold.

In addition to these reasons, specialists in the field of repairing refrigeration equipment distinguish a number of others:

  • Complete or partial clogging of the main pipes along which the refrigerant circulates;
  • If the refrigerator without a break is very freezing, and the back wall is covered with hoar, then the culprit in this case must be sought among one of the worn.out seals;
  • User errors associated with improper operation. you can not place the Beko or Indesit device or inside it strong sources of heat;
  • The refrigerant (freon) is extremely rare. it is necessary to act in such a situation quickly, otherwise the likelihood of Freon poisoning several times increases several times.

Most of the reasons as a result of which the Donbass or ZIL refrigerator begins to work without stopping, so do not try to make diagnostics yourself. It is better to seek technical help, otherwise the lost time will not affect the health of the refrigerator in the best way.

Crab hands | Almois Jobbing Official

He has been living for himself since 1993 of the Ukrainian.made refrigerator Nord 226. In general, it looks like this:

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Initially, he was bad. After a couple of years of operation, the compressor was dead and was replaced by specially invited masters to the Atlant compressor, which still fakes, already ~ 22 years.

Further, an attentive inspection of the body for heat passage inside (the freezer clogged too quickly with frost-frozen snow) revealed a poor docking of the body parts, cracks up to 2 mm:

I had to fly them with silicone glue-metering. So that the glue is smeared perfectly evenly and back. grease the gum on the door with oil and close the door, wait for the glue to dry.

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Also, the freezer door stood crookedly, and in order to leve it had to be shifted by the upper loop and destroying the top cover:

It also turned out that the freezer door is icing from the inside and during a defrosting from it terribly flows:

There are two heater resistors (EC1, EK2; 5-7 W with a capacity of 5-7 W), which are directly connected to the 220 volt network and operate continuously 24 hours a day. They heat the refrigerator from the inside. Where? Why?

They are in the case between the cameras along the upper gums of the lower and middle doors:

We need to warm these places, to prevent condensate there due to the difference in the temperature of the chambers. However, this refrigerator all [its] life worked incorrectly: according to the instructions in the middle chamber, the temperature should be negative, but in practice the temperature is from 2 to 6. As a result, the temperature difference (especially from the negative to positive) is not between the middle and lower chambers.

And norms. No humidity is observed. 120 watts per day are saved.

So, one day the thermostat has broken (aka thermostat, aka thermorelele). The refrigerator did not turn on and began to thaw, then suddenly turns on and freezes about 15 hours continuously, so that the entire evaporator is frozen in the main chamber (covered with a thick layer of snow). (In theory, a more frequent option for behavior when breaking the thermostat should be: just does not turn on, but does not turn off.)

To shoot the control of the control unit, first you need to unscrew the screw (purple arrow), then pull out the pimples (green arrow) and pull (5 mm) the entire block in the direction of the red arrow (the latter must be done because the casing is hooked behind the wall with another g- figurative hook).

The removal of the relay is complicated by the fact that everything in this refrigerator was vaguely rusted, at the evaporators, the evaporates ate rusty slots (see. 3. in photo 9), nothing is impossible to unscrew. The probe of thermallele is located behind the evaporator (see. one. in the photo 9) and get it from there You can: you need to unscrew those two screws from above and fingers stuck on top of the evaporator, lift up the aluminum plate, which presses the probe from behind.

A probe is a gas tube connected to the Moha cylinder (this thing is called “Sylphone” in a scientific basis). With an increase in temperature, the gas expands and increases the length of the bellows, which presses on the lever, the other end of which (1. in the photo 13) presses on the switch and at some point switches it.

There are two adjusting screws. In photo 13, the arrow 3 points to the wheel, which is twisted outside on the other side to change the temperature [in the main chamber of the refrigerator]. This wheel crushes stronger-Ishbeem on the bellows in the antiparture and, accordingly, earlier, later, the contacts are switched relative to temperature. The wheel contact with the bellipon occurs through the adjusting screw 2, the twisting of which is equivalent to twisting the adjustment wheel. For example, there was an inclusion of [compressor] at 8 ° C, shutdown by 2 ° C. it will become 10/4 ° C.

The second adjusting screw, 4 in photo 13, is running out of the lever 1, which sets the switch so that it changes the power amplitude of the disconnection. This changes the temperature range. For example, there was an inclusion at 8 ° C, shutdown by 2 ° C (difference 6). will become 7/3 ° C (difference 4).

Features of Nord

Nord household appliances note:

  • compliance with all international standards;
  • prevalence in the CIS and beyond its borders;
  • quality;
  • duration of the operational period;
  • improved technology;
  • manufacturing from environmentally friendly materials;
  • wide range;
  • reliability.

Nord refrigerators are an optimal compromise between quality, availability and acceptable cost.

Electric circuit of the refrigerator Nord

The unit diagram contains elements such as a compressor motor, a lighting lamp combined with a switch, a two type of heater (thaw and crosseships), a thermostat, an engine and a launcher, in some models, only the starting of the starting.

Scheme of the two.compressor refrigerator Nord

After connecting the refrigerator to the network, the electric current passes through the contacts of the thermostat (closed), as a result of which the motor-compressor receives such a necessary voltage. The Nord Unit begins to function. The lighting turns on when the door is opened and returns to the previous mode after it is closed.

The start.up relay is responsible for preventing compressor overheating and excess of its performance. When such a danger arises, the starting element simply turns off the motor. The thawing regimen is activated if the contacts are in the open state. The heater of the crossbar does not change the operating mode throughout the cycle. This avoids problems due to moisture.

Diagnosis of the refrigerator components

Despite all the bulky structure, the refrigerator does not have so many nodes that can fail. In most cases, the search for a malfunction is quite simple and will not take much time.

The diagnosis of unit nodes implies the presence of minimal knowledge in the field of electrical engineering. If there is no self.confidence, it is better to entrust the search and elimination of a malfunction to a qualified specialist!

Important! All work must be carried out with the device disconnected from the electrical network!

Diagnosis of the compressor

The compressor is the heart of any refrigerator, the speed of set of the desired temperature in the chamber depends on its effective operation.

The failure of the compressor is the most expensive part of the refrigerator repair.

Problems with the compressor can be caused by malfunctions of the electrical or mechanical part of the unit. Check the electric part simply. To do this, in the arsenal of the “home diagnostic”, it is enough to have only a multimeter.

Before the measurements, it is necessary to make sure that the unit is disconnected from the electric network!

To gain access to compressor terminals, it is necessary to dismantle the launch and protective relay from its case.

Right terminal. output of the working winding, left. launch winding. The upper conclusion is the common point of two windings of the refrigerator motor.

For diagnosis, it is necessary to separately measure the resistance of both windings, as well as their general resistance. To check the working winding, the measurement is carried out by the right and upper terminals, the launch. between the left and the upper conclusions.

As a rule, in compressors of small power, the resistance of the working winding is in the range of 15 Ohms, the launch. about 20 Ohms.

The third measurement is made to check the total integrity of the windings, for which the resistance between the right and left terminals of the terminal box of the compressor is measured. In the case of a normal state of windings, the device should show the total resistance of two windings (the amount of measurement results obtained a little earlier). As a rule, the total result should be 30-35 Ohms.

Additionally, you should make sure that there are no closing windings to the compressor housing. With a good electric part, all three measurements should show the absence of a circuit for the flow of electric current.

The nominal values ​​of the resistance resistance for a particular compressor model is best found on the Internet.

Checking the mechanical part of the unit will require depressurization of the cooling circuit. It is better to entrust it to a specialist who has the necessary equipment in his arsenal. To perform such work will be required:

  • pipeline;
  • Tool for pipe rolling;
  • manometer;
  • connecting hoses;
  • electronic balance;
  • Vacuum pump;
  • gas-burner;
  • set of couplings for connecting.

The check itself comes down to connecting to the diagnosed manometer compressor and measuring the pressure he created in the highway. If after turning on the refrigerator, the pressure gauge shows 4 bar and more, the compressor is serviceable. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

Diagnosis of the capillary system

In the case when the compressor works properly, and the refrigerator does not produce cold properly, a probable cause of a malfunction may be a blockage of a capillary tube. This problem prevents the normal circulation of the refrigerant and does not allow the unit to work normally.

Indirectly, the problem can be diagnosed by the temperature of the compressor discharge fitting. If it heats up quickly, but after a couple of minutes it cools down. with a high degree of probability you can talk about the existing blockage in the capillary system of the refrigerator.

You can determine the blockage by feeling the surface of the capacitor. If it has uneven heating over the entire area or part of its surface remains cold, then this also indicates the existing blockage.

You can make a more accurately diagnosis after depressing the system. It is enough to connect the pressure gauge to the gas pipe. If, with a compressor, the device shows negative values ​​(vacuum formation), and after turning off the unit, the pressure in the system remains unchanged or increases very slowly. the blockage of the capillary system is obvious.

Probable culprits-filter-dryer or capillary tube. When the filter clogged with garbage, it is simply replaced by a new one, but in the case of a blockage of a capillary tube, they try to “push” the system using a hydraulic press.

Diagnostics of thermoregulator

The thermostat is responsible for maintaining a given temperature in the refrigerator. At its core, this is a regular switch that turns on or off the compressor when the desired temperatures are reached inside the device.

If the refrigerator does not turn on at all or, conversely, works without stopping, a probable cause of breakdown. failure of the thermostat.

Check it is easy. In the case when the compressor does not start, you need to close three wires connected to the node, then turn on the refrigerator into the network. In old models of refrigerators, two wires were used to connect the thermostat. They need to close them together. If the compressor starts, the culprit is found and it has to be replaced.

When the compressor does not turn off, it can be assumed that the regulator has failed and remained in a closed position. It is also subject to replacement.

Replacement is not particularly difficult, most importantly, when installing a new node, not allow fractures and jamming of the bellows tube with gas, which is responsible for the trial of the contact part of the node.

breakdowns, nord, refrigerators

Ripping your fridge apart for money

Diagnosis of the nodes of the refrigerator No Frost

When searching for non.frost system malfunctions, the methodology for checking the compressor and the capillary system remain the same. But since new elements appear in the system, let us dwell on their testing in more detail.

Checking the fan

Fan. the key unit of the No Frost system. It is he who provides forced circulation of cold air inside the refrigerator chamber. To check its performance, it is enough to listen to the operation of the unit. The noise of a working fan is heard and “naked” ear. You can also attach a hand to the outputs of air channels and make sure that air comes from them.

To verify the fan visually, you will have to remove the protective casing of the freezer, which is its back wall. When inspecting the fan, it will pay attention to its impeller. Blades should not have chips and cracks.

In the event of a malfunction of the node, it is replaced by a new.

Diagnosis of the thawing system

In refrigerators No Frost, special attention is paid to the purity of the evaporator from the ice and the snow “fur coat”. After all, obstructing the passage of air pumped by the fan reduces its number and leads to insufficient cooling of the chamber. As a result, electricity consumption increases and the load on the compressor increases.

The components of the thawing system are:

  • thawing timer;
  • Two thermorel (may be one combined) for tracking the upper and lower thresholds of temperature;
  • heating element.

The system works as follows. After the time set by the thawing timer (depending on the manufacturer from 4 to 24 hours), the compressor turns off, and within 15-20 minutes the evaporator is heated by the heater. As a result, all the ice formed for the work cycle thaws and removes into the drainage system of the refrigerator.

No matter how paradoxical it sounds, but before diagnosing the refrigerator No Frost, it is advisable to defrost, allowing it to stand off for 10-12 hours. This can solve the problem of thawing the evaporator without further intervention.

The system’s performance is checked as follows:

  • A protective casing of the freezer and a plastic panel with a fan installed behind it are dismantled.
  • Depending on the type of timer (electronic or mechanical), on its case, either the button for the enforcement of the thawing mode is pressed, or the handle (in the course of the clock) is turned to a characteristic click.

At the same time, the compressor’s work should stop, and thawing heating should begin to heat up.

If the heating of the hets does not occur, it is necessary to make sure the integrity of the heating elements (their nominal resistance is 200-300 Ohms) and the normal operation. One of them, responsible for turning on the circuit when the threshold of low temperature is reached, is normally open. It switches the chain when a temperature equal to 10 ° C reaches. The second relay is normally closed, its purpose is the protection of the evaporator from overheating. The relay tears the power chain of Ten when it reaches a temperature of 10 ° C. Faulty components of the system are replaced by new.

If the test of the heating and thermallera indicates their serviceability, then the only “suspect” is the thawing timer. It must be replaced with a new knot of the same model or component, which has the same characteristics.

details about the diagnosis and repair of the thawing system are described in the following

  • Dismantling and disassembling of the refrigerator door. how to disassemble the door of the refrigerator for overflowing to the other side at the very top of the refrigerator, above the door of the freezer (you may need a staircase), remove two.
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The device of the launcher

Consider the design of the relay using the example of “tablets”. The detail of interest is near the compressor engine. Its color is black, since it absorbs heat better than all other shades. Then it is necessary to note two phases (one by 220 V, and the other for grounding) and, accordingly, two entrances/output. In some models of refrigerators, three phases are provided (the third phase of the Earth is considered). There is also an engine winding and starting starting.

It is not difficult to connect the starting relay of the refrigerator. The main thing is to have certain skills, an electrical circuit and instructions for the refrigerator. To facilitate work for masters and ordinary users, the wires are already painted. Just when removing the old relay, you need to remember their location, and when installing a new one, return them to their place. Next, it remains only to connect the efficient device.

But even the wires, each one in their own color, will not prevent the malfunction that has arisen. Regardless of the operation, all movements should be neat and smooth. One sharp jerk can really disable the refrigerator out of order. Before you start working, you should check all the contacts. The easiest way to do this, taking off a little paint from the case, but you need to do this only in the most extreme case.

Possible problems

Experts identified the problems characteristic of Nord refrigerators. Among them, jamming of mobile contacts; Dysfunction of the spring plate; spiral made of inappropriate material; Contact burning; violations in the core, which is part of the coil.

Clean the details of the starting relay of the compressor of the refrigerator Nord should be by means of a napkin moistened with an alcohol solution. Rust problems are solved using sandpaper. When carrying out disassembly, cleaning, returning and connecting this mechanism, you must be guided by the electronic circuit.

To take up the repair of the launchers of the PZR, having no appropriate knowledge and the required skills is not recommended. This will lead to even worst consequences. The broken unit Nord will definitely return to the operating mode after repair work in the service center. Therefore, if you are not confident in your abilities, then do not risk. Trust your refrigerator Nord 233 professionals. How they carry out their work, you can watch on the video.

Repair of refrigerators “Nord

Refrigerators are made in the form of a floor cabinet with a installation plane. Between the outer cabinet and the inner chamber is thermal insulation from polyurethane foam. The tightness of the doorways is achieved using elastic seals with magnetic inserts. Refrigerated chambers are illuminated by an electric bulb, which is automatically turned on when the door is opened and turns off when closing it.

Cooling of products in refrigerators is carried out by a sealed compression refrigerator unit operating on R12 or R134A.

To start the compressor electric motor with a voltage of 200-240 V, a current frequency of 50 Hz, as well as to protect windings from overloads, a launched relay was used.

Refrigerators “Nord-416”, “Nord-431”, “Nord-517”, “Nord-417″

The refrigerators are single.chamber. There is a freezer in the upper part of the refrigerator, in which the temperature is maintained.12 ° C. In a refrigerator located in the bottom of the cabinet, a temperature of 5 ° C.

To increase the level of comfort, the design of the refrigerator allows you to redesign the door for right- or left-handed opening, rearrange the shelves and vessels of the refrigerator in height with an interval of 50 mm, rearrange the shelves of the door of the refrigerator, and limit the door opening at the angle of 90 or 120 °.

For moving on the floor, refrigerators are equipped with two rollers.

Refrigerator “Nord-214-1” KShD-280/45

The two.chamber refrigerator is designed for freezing and storing foods, as well as for the preparation of food ice.

Rice. one. Refrigerator “Nord-214-1” KShD-280/45 General view:

A. refrigerator: 11. decorative bar;
B. freezer: 12. gayka;
1. lattice; 13. OPO;
2. evaporator of the freezer; 14, 15. bolt with puck;
3. scapula; 16. a clock:
4. container with a lid; 17. vegetables and fruits:
5. liner; 18-ass-glass:
6. Kholder chamber evaporator: 19. framing the shelf;
7. barrier of the shelf; 20. regiment;
8. the door of the refrigerator; 21. tank with a lid;
9. vessel for melt water: 22. instrument unit;
10. corner; 23. ice form;
24. crossbag;

Electric circuits are shown in rice. 2.

Rice. 2 Refrigerator “Nord-214-1”, electrical circuits A)-1st class of protection; b). 0 class of protection:

SK. thermostat; EC1. cross.country electric heater:
EL. Pampa incandescent; EC2. thawing electric heater:
K. a launched relay; SQ. lighting switch;
M. compressor; X. reinforced wire

In preparation for work, the refrigerator is installed with a small inclination back (8-10 mm) for spontaneous closing of the doors using adjusting supports. Built.in handles are used in the refrigerator.

During the operation of the refrigerator, when formed on the internal walls, also on the frame of the freezer of a slight snow cover that prevents the door tightly closing, it is removed with a shoulder blade at any time, without combining this with thawing the freezer.

If a dense snow cover is formed with a thickness of more than 3 mm (determined visually) and it cannot be removed with a spatula, the refrigerator is thawed. It is recommended to thaw the freezer with a preventive purpose at least once every two to three months.

Thawing the freezer is carried out in the following order:

  • turn off the refrigerator from the mains, leaving the open door of the freezer;
  • They remove products from the freezer, wrap them in several layers of thick paper and placed on the shelves of the refrigerator;
  • Remove the cork from the drain opening, setting against the upper shelf of the refrigerating chamber a tank or any other vessel with a capacity of at least 2 liters. In order to prevent the clogging of the system of water removal with waste of carelessly packed products or packaging waste in the refrigerator, there is a safety grille, which is systematically closed as it clogs, as well as in the process of each cleaning, it is necessary to clean it. Before cleaning, the safety grille is removed, with a slight effort, turning it over.

After thawing, the water from the tank is drained, the plug and cork in place (to failure) are installed and the refrigerator is cleaned.

In the upper part of the refrigerator there is a freezer (MK), and in the lower. refrigerator (HC), separated from the freezer with a heat.insulating fence made of polyurethane foam.

Rice. 3. Refrigerator “Nord-214-1” KShD-280/45 view of the back:

1. drainage; 5. vessel for melt water;
2. compressor; 6. connecting wire;
3. launchers; 7. fork;
4. terminal block; 8. pipe;

Snow cover from the evaporator placed on the back wall of the refrigerator is thawed automatically using an electric heater during a compressor stop. During the thawing of the evaporator, the resulting water along the drainage 1 is drained into the vessel 5 for melt water, located on the top cover of the compressor, or in a vessel for melt water 9 (see. rice. one.), located at the bottom of the cabinet.

Rice. four. Refrigerator “Nord-214-1” KShD-280/45 (location of the instrument block)

A block of devices is located on the side wall of the refrigerator, in which the TAI-133-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1, light bulb and camera lighting switch are located (see. rice.four). For additional cooling of the oil, a special device is provided.

The average temperature in the refrigerator 5 ° C.

The desired temperature regime in the refrigerator is set by turning the handle of the thermal controller 2 clockwise until the selected division is combined with a stationary pointer 3. Division 1 corresponds to the highest temperature in the chamber, division 8. the lowest. In this case, a smooth adjustment of the regime is ensured. The muddy adjustment of the regime is indicated by the symbol applied to the handle of the thermostat.

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