What to do if the casing of the multicooker does not open

Mulinex cobberry multicooker crook (page 7)

Hi all! Cooked on the functions of extinguishing for 40 minutes, forcibly released steam from it. The cover does not open. What to do?


And the steam went out all? It was audible how the valve opened?(light click) Wait a few minutes and after repeated pressing the steam release button, try to open the lid again.


If it was a strongly foaming product, then perhaps the foam is stuck on the valve, then you need to remove the heavy puck-cracker on the lid, remove the decorative ring and press with a toothpick in the opening hole to pave the valve down. But! Mandatory at a fairly cooled pressure cooker, so as not to burn the steam.


And the steam went out all? It was audible how the valve opened?(light click) Wait a few minutes and after repeated pressing the steam release button, try to open the lid again.


If it was a strongly foaming product, then perhaps the foam is stuck on the valve, then you need to remove the heavy puck-cracker on the lid, remove the decorative ring and press with a toothpick in the opening hole to pave the valve down. But! Mandatory at a fairly cooled pressure cooker, so as not to burn the steam.


Click on the steam button again, you could not completely lower it. The click is barely audible, if you do not try specially, you will not hear. And it is the raised valve that holds the lid from the turn, or from the fact that it supports it (often), or from the fact that it sticks (less often)


Click on the steam button again, you could not completely lower it. The click is barely audible, if you do not try specially, you will not hear. And it is the raised valve that holds the lid from the turn, or from the fact that it supports it (often), or from the fact that it sticks (less often)


casing, multicooker, does, open

Take it in your ranks on Thursday I will receive it, ugly! I chose for a long time and tedious, I stopped on it. I have high hopes and I hope not let you down. As I try, I will unsubscribe.


Svetlana14, welcome. Congratulations on a wonderful assistant! May all your hopes come true, and Mulya will definitely delight you with different goodies. Write about your culinary masterpieces and record recipes. share with us)))



Girls, I looked at the black in Mvideo yesterday. Outwardly, it, of course, is pretty, there are a lot of programs, but a ceramic bowl with small-small cells. It seemed to me that they are even less than in my fire 6051. And did not like the cover from the inside at all. It is flimsy and is attached with some kind of rubber pimpois. With me, she fell off. The seller at first said that the pressure would still be typed, then he said that this was not a masterpiece and began to actively tear Bork and Kambruk. I left with this. On our forum, the reviews are extremely enthusiastic, but I understand that almost everyone has the first pressure cooker and there is nothing to compare with much. While sitting in the bushes.

Most likely, the test sample was marriage, or became unusable due to the fact that customers constantly pulled it like that. Nothing falls off for me, the lid closes very tightly. What was a little annoyed in this model. Pretty light, when you open the lid, it must be held, not the cover itself, but the base, t. to. cartoon “jumps” a bit when the lid opens. the easier the finished product in it. the more intense “jump”. But I’m already used to holding it. This was announced at first, t. to. On the lid from the inside, condensate was often sprayed when jumping, fell on the table and hull of a man. But this is garbage. I would have pulled her bottom somehow, I don’t know, maybe my husband will attach something to the bottom. A piece of lead or something

And so I have only positive impressions of the mulchi, nothing has ever been soaked. Baking sticks if it does not lubricate the bowl where there are irregularities on board (marking the volume of the bowl), to the bottom and sides without this “marking” nothing will burn even if not lubricated. I bake without butter (on a diet) and already realized why the cake was sticking first to me. But in the recipes they always write to lubricate the bowl before baking, so this is my problem. Nothing will burn and does not stick to the bottom in any case.

Once pierced the valve when the steam was lowered after milk porridge. I didn’t do this anymore. You need to wait about 15 minutes and the valve itself is unlocked. The same about other dishes. I wait a bit, at least for at least 5 minutes, and then press the descend of the steam, but I do not fully push the button, the product is not so powerful and less likely that it will stick out or that the liquid will go through the valve (broth from soup, milk from porridge and t. P.). All in all. It is necessary carefully, this does not affect the speed of descending steam.

I use it every day, sometimes several times a day.


Girls, such a question. Where is the noise all the same? After all, it is still formed there when cooking broth, for example, or when the porridge is cooked. As I understand it, the master of the chef can still open the lid in the process, remove the excess, but when the lid is blocked how to be.


Svetlan, and you previously cooked the broth in the pressure cooker under pressure? But just in a slow cooker at normal pressure? Or are you only choosing the first multicooker? If something is formed, it remains on the walls of the bowl, but it is formed very little compared to ordinary pots on the stove.


No, I didn’t cook it first I will have. I cook on a gas stove. I ask strange questions, yes? And acquaintances have no, no one, so I will torment you for the answer

casing, multicooker, does, open


Dark girls, help, pliz. I bought myself such happiness. For the first time for the test, I just decided to boil a storm in the speed of the pressure cooker. I was surprised that there are no such elementary data in the instructions. So I cooked for quite some time with intermediate descent of steam and checking the product. And today I tried to make pilaf. First, fried meat and vegetables in the frying mode, then poured rice, poured water, chose the program “pilaf”. She went to gain pressure, but then the reset and transition to heating mode. I read somewhere that if the liquid is not enough to set the pressure, then it does this. Added water. Nothing changed. The picture is the same. The pressure does not gain pressure in fact, and after an unsuccessful attempt it drops the program for minute heating. I had to cook on multiseph. Put 110 degrees, closed the lid, but still pilaf was prepared without pressure. What’s the catch. After all, there is a concept of a portion. water is simply impossible.

Master class on repairing

To eliminate the problems of the microcircuit, you should carefully inspect. To identify malfunctions, you should pay attention to the following signs:

  • the appearance of soot;
  • bloating of capacitors;
  • detachment and rupture of paths;
  • damage to soldering seams;
  • The darkening of resistors.

In case of malfunction of certain elements, they should immediately be replaced. Restoring the ration is easier. Paths of the board can be repaired by stripping with a zero skin. It is also possible to pile up damaged areas.

In some cases, jumpers are used, which are easily made from resistor legs. After completing the work, the surface should be poured varnish. Otherwise, the leak can lead to negative consequences. Varnish helps to protect the metal from moisture and oxygen. It is these factors that pose the greatest danger to the conductors.

Why may a multicooker cover, problems and solutions not to close

Delicious and healthy food that is prepared itself is the limit of dreams for any housewife. Thanks to multicooles, this dream has become real. You can cook in a slow cooker in two modes. with a closed and open lid. When the multicooker lid does not close, the food is prepared as in a conventional pan or pan on the stove and requires constant supervision. All the magic of independent cooking occurs in a slow cooker precisely under a closed lid, when automatic cooking programs are launched.

To establish the causes of the malfunction, you need to deal with error codes. If a system message appears on the monitor, it should be understood what it means. This will help the instruction for a specific model or a visit to a professional master.

The most common codes should include the following:

  • E0. indicates the rupture or closure of the chain of the upper temperature sensor. The reason can also be hidden in its wire. Sometimes such an error indicates an incomplete closure of the lid. This is usually due to corruption or absence of silicone sealing.
  • E1. such a mistake indicates the penetration of the liquid into the device. It also indicates a breakdown of the heater or the lower temperature sensor. The multicooker also shows the same code when clogging thermorele’s contacts.
  • E2. In this case, you can suspect the gap or closing of the upper temperature sensor circuit. The same may concern its wires.
  • E3. such a code indicates the penetration of moisture into the structure of the device. He also speaks of a break or closing of the upper temperature sensor or its wire. The cause of the error may be the absence of a bowl or the use of an inappropriate element.
  • E4. the problem can lie in the clogging of the pressure sensor. The cause is also considered the failure of the control board.
  • E5. such a code indicates an automatic shutdown, which is required to protect against overheating.

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Typical errors and their characteristics

Each multicooker model has a user guide, which displays possible causes of errors and not the possibility of continuing work.

In some cases, the same code can indicate several faults at once, so this factor must be taken into account.

Before taking the slow cooker to repair, you can try to find out what exactly is the reason. The following tint will help in this.

Error code Possible reasons
E1 Moisture hit the heating element or its burning
E2 Power cable break or a malfunction of the upper thermal sensor
E3 Possible moisture on the heating shadow or the lid is not tightly closed
E4 Fault of the board or blockage of the pressure sensor
E5 Automatic shutdown of multicooker due to overheating. Prevents premature wear of the Ten.

Opinion of expert Torsunov Pavel Maksimovich

In some cases, errors cannot be eliminated independently or their code is displayed incorrectly. Then you can’t do without qualified repair specialists. Initially, you need to understand what could provoke the appearance of a particular code on the display and try to eliminate this reason as much as possible.

  • There is a hole in the bowl through which the liquid enters the heating ten.
  • Entering the heating element of third.party objects and food residues, which causes combustion processes.
  • The fault of the Ten itself and its burnout.

To make sure the heater is working, it is recommended to turn off the slow cooker from the network, carefully open the lid and remove the bowl. Next, they include the fork in the outlet and control the heating process. Its absence gives an answer why Code E1 appeared.

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Such a problem most often occurs due to a cliff in certain parts of the cable, the connection of which does not cause its inclusion to the slow cooker. You can check this reason by connecting an alternative cable (you can ask friends, neighbors). If the device works when it is connected, then the reason is found.

Sometimes E2 appears when the thermal sensor is located at the top. It is recommended to open the lid, carefully remove the bowl and see the operation of the heating element when the fork is on the network. If when closing the cover the error appears again, then the malfunction is found.

The most common mistake that occurs with a loosely closed lid. In some models, it is accompanied by a characteristic sound signal.

Also manifests itself when the liquid enters the heating element. You need to gently remove the bowl and look at its condition from below. Perhaps crumbs, small particles of vegetables, cereals.

The most difficult error, as it indicates a malfunction in the central board, which regulates all processes of the multicooker work. The second reason is a malfunction of the pressure sensor. Find a problem and eliminate it only to a specialist.

If the machine is used throughout the day and the heating element experiences increased loads, automation is triggered that provokes forced completion of work. This is necessary so that the heating element does not burn out premature.

Do.it.yourself multicoars repair. What to do if a multicooker broke?

Currently, most hostesses know about the convenience and efficiency of using multicoars in the kitchen from their own experience. The use of multicillas in everyday life has become an integral part of the life of a modern housewife.

The purpose of this electrical device is the preparation of a large number of various dishes. The universality of the device allows you to simmer, steam, fry, cook, steam and so on. This household technique functions independently, and there is no need to control the process of preparation.

The cover of the device

Today we will tell you how to make the repair of the Redmond multicooker. With our own hands, we will try to fix the lid.

This is a standard breakdown for most types of multicoars. Damage to this cover refers to the planned aging, that is, the manufacturer specially makes it unreliable. The finger of the button broke. The cover led as a result of the temperature exposure. The rods reach special grooves and the lid is inserted, but there are not enough several millimeters.

We will need small magnets and we will make a magnetic cover, which closes, holds on magnets and is opened under the effort. You need to glue 4 magnets. two per lid and on the casing of the multicooker itself. The cup for multicooker is pre.taken out.

Choose the points where we will glue the magnets. Degreasing the surface with alcohol. First, apply high.quality glue to the selected points of the case and press the magnets. Wait until the glue dries. Now, not forgetting about the observance of poles of magnets, we glue them on the lid. In this case, it is more convenient to apply glue directly to the magnet. If there is a need and the height of the magnets is insufficient, it is necessary to glue two magnets on each other. Here we are already acting experimentally.

This, of course, is not the most common way to solve the problem with a broken clamp clasp of a multicooker cover. Basically, experts solve it by replacing the handle, if the mounting places are not damaged, but the handle itself broke. Or as an option, they drill holes in the handle and fix it on screws. Choose you.

DIY diagnostics and repair

To fix such a device, it is worth conducting a detailed diagnosis. This will help to identify the causes of the breakdown.

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Checking the switch, thermal subject and heating

If the inspection does not help detect a breakdown, it is worth checking the operation of the switch. Equally important is the assessment of the functioning of the heat.subject. These elements are fixed with a thick wire. It has red. To identify the problem, you should take a multimeter and measure the resistance. Points 1 and 2 should be touched with probes. The parameter should be zero. It will be possible to carry out the procedure and using a switch tester.

At the same time check the heating. To do this, it is worth measuring the indicator between points 1 and 3. It should coincide with the resistance of the heating spiral. Given the power, this parameter can be 30-80 Ohms. If, after measuring the resistance at points 1 and 2, it was possible to reveal that it strives for infinity, the breakdown lies in the switch or fuse. To check the switch, it is worth putting the key to the state on and touched the navigated conclusions with the probes of the device. Normally, the resistance is 0.

If the circuit breaker is in good condition, you can proceed to checking the fuse.

To do this, it is recommended to free the rack of its fixation on the device case and move the insulating tube. Then touch the conclusions by the multimeter. Normally, the resistance should be 0. In a different situation, the fuse has broken down. It needs to be replaced. The element does not have polarity, therefore it is allowed to put it in any way.

Does not work and the display shines

If the monitor shows the error code E, this indicates the normal operation of the cord, the fuse and the switch. The breakdown may consist of heat.resistant, Ten. Also, a power supply can be the reason for the breakdown of the device.

How to check the power supply and switching

If at the preliminary stages it was not possible to identify a breakdown of the device, it is worth checking this block. It is subjected to elevated temperatures, therefore it often fails. Often this breakdown is accompanied by the appearance of an E1 error code. If you carefully examine the elements of the block, you can see the resistor-guide. When measuring the resistance by a multimeter, it strives for infinity. However, according to color marking, it should be 100 Ohms.

To repair the block of the block, it is recommended to dismantle it. This element is recorded on the basis of multicooker 2 screws and nuts. Unscrewing the screws, they should be held.

To access the nuts, the element is recommended to be kept from the side of the bowl. In this case, you need to remove the heater fixed on three screws. From the outputs of the wire you can not unsettle. If you fall out of the printed circuit board a resistor, you can see that it has burned down. In the diagram, this element is not only used to limit the current, but also in the role of the fuse. Its damage is due to a large current that proceeds.

For a simpler detection of a multicooker breakdown, you can draw a fragment of a circuit circuit of the power supply unit. A detailed inspection of the microcircuit body helps to identify minor local darkening of the fragment with marking.

How to replace a regular power source

To replace the power source, you should choose the right device. It can be obtained by order. It is also permissible to use the adapter from computer technology. To do this, use the device for a voltage of 12 volts and replace the failed part of the scheme on it.

You can use the adapter for the redmonde multicooker. On his case there should be information about a constant voltage of 12 volts and the ability to withstand the load current up to 200 milliamps. This is absolutely identical to the parameters of the device chip.

Before connecting the adapter to the power supply, it is recommended to disconnect the stabilizer. First of all, it is recommended to drop a resistor and diode. To avoid the need to open the adapter body and cut its cord when checking, you can connect the element via a conventional connector. Plus is located on the output, in the center. Conclusions should be soldered with the implementation of the rules of polarity. This is done in parallel to the outputs of the capacitor of the power supply unit. The lid should be put in place, and the slow cooker is included in the network. Then the adapter is also included in the outlet.

At this stage, the multicooker should earn. To assess the reliability of its functioning, it is worth pouring water into the bowl for food. The device is filled with liquid to the edges and set the cooking mode. It is recommended to bring water to a boil and cook 45 minutes to the timer signal. Such tests will help confirm the correctness of repair procedures.

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In conclusion, the adapter should be put in the device. Then it should be connected to the power supply. To do this, the contact fragments of the adapter board are connected to the output of the block. The power voltage is supplied with a pair of wiring. They differ in black and red.

To ensure a good thermal operating mode of the adapter, a fragment of the case with a network fork should not be installed. Before fastening the element in the lid, it is worth choosing a section that excludes its emphasis in the details of the device after closing. You can make a hole in the lid so that the self.tapping thread passes normally. In the adapter case, make holes for screwing.

Repair of the loop of the cover

When breaking the loop that holds the lid, it is worth taking measures. Such a malfunction does not interfere with cooking, but violates the tightness of the device. With inaccurate use of the device, there is a risk of damage to the wires that connect thermal resistance in the lid with the control board.

The device cover includes 2 fragments. To repair the loop, it is recommended to disconnect them. The elements of the cover are fixed with each other with latches. They have small sizes, therefore it will be possible to disconnect the lid with a flat screwdriver. This tool needs to be squeezed between the halves of the product.

How to disassemble and remove the lid

Models with a removable handle (for example, SkyCoooker M40S):

  • Turn and remove the steam valve.
  • Introduce a plastic card, expanding the gap between the upper and aluminum lids.
  • Draw a card in the cracks until a click is heard. Sound means that the card pushed the latch.
  • Enter the second card and remove the second emphasis.
  • Remove the first card and squeeze the remaining two fixers.
  • Separate the plastic cover.
  • Put the device with your back up and remove the condensate container. It is removed simply, without clicking or screws. Under it is a plug hiding the loop and wires.
  • Free the screws in the plug and remove it.
  • Raise the lid and stretch the metal crossbar from holders.

In such models, a thermoresistor is placed under the aluminum panel of the inner cover. It is attached to bilateral tape or glue and closed with foil. The wires from it (blue in white additional braid and yellow-earth) pass under the plug, descend into the case and stretch to the board placed at the bottom of the structure.

The wires constantly bend and often break, which leads to an error “E2”. The slow cooker turns on, understands the commands, but stops basking, issuing a message about the failure immediately after pressing the Start key.

Models with a key with the example of REDMOND RMC-M4500:

  • To clean the steam valve, you need to remove the plastic box on top of the lid.
  • Then. remove the valve from it and rinse both components.
  • The aluminum cover of the models of this row is attached with screws. they need to be unscrewed to remove the part.

The cover is fixed thanks to the valve key, which is attached in the excavation on the case with two spikes. The latter often break or score. As the masters on the forums note, this is “planned wear”, forcing customers to change the device to a more modern.

  • The valve is dismantled in the same way as the previous model.
  • The aluminum liner is attached to two clamps. They need to be squeezed at the same time either in turn, and the lid will easily be removed.
  • Remove the aluminum cover, squeezing three fixers around the circle.
  • Remove the steam valve. The difference between the model is that this part is located inside, and not outside. Rising in place, the valve should click on the stopper.

How to fix a locking lock

Since the key is attached on two spikes, the most logical with their malfunction is to increase the protrusions. To do this, the wire is filed in the key or the nails / screws suitable in length and diameter are driven.

A simpler way is to put the screws on the lid or glue metal plates, and small flat magnets of sufficient gripping force to the body.

Modern Multicillas “Redmond” understand the most simple. The manufacturer recommends regularly remove and wash the steam valve and an aluminum inner cover. old models are more difficult to understand, but quite affordable ways. Take care of the slow cooker in time so that it does not spoil the aroma of dishes and serve longer.

The slow cooker does not open

If after cooking the multicooker cover does not open, then the reasons may be as follows: the key is broken, the pressure is not completely dropped or the safety valve is stuck in a closed position and does not allow the lid to open.

  • The pressure cooker is so arranged that you can open the lid only after the pressure inside is equal to the external. There is a valve on the lid, which can be opened manually and quickly suffer excess pressure.
  • Some of the pressure cooks have an additional valve. In addition to resetting excess pressure, the safety valve blocks the opening mechanism if the multicooker is concentrated hot air inside. Due to fat and particles of food, the valve can stick in a position blocking the opening of the lid.

The cost and repair of multicoars with a defect does not open

We have already repeatedly eliminated the malfunction of the multicooker does not open and we know the reason for its occurrence. Below is a table of renovated devices.

Diagnostics is free
Work 1200
Details In the table

Pressure Cooker Lid Stuck? Simple Solution

Multicooker makes sound signals

This is normal when the slow cooker begins to make sounds when heated, when the timer starts and when the ending timer works. In other cases, a slow cooker can attract your attention if something goes wrong, for example, if there is not enough water in the pan. Check if the code flashes on the screen. Look at the error code and act as indicated in the instructions.

Multicaps with an electronic control system use error codes to indicate specific problems. If the code appears, you must see it in the instructions to find out what it means.

C1, for example, means a faulty temperature sensor, C5 indicates that in the internal capacity there is not enough water. Error E3 suggests that water fell under the bottom. You can take the device to the workshop, and if skills allow (and the warranty period is over), then you can disassemble the device for a long complete drying.

You can fix most of the errors yourself: add water, clean the pan, give the device to cool, clean the elements of the output of steam. If it is recommended to contact the master in the instructions, it will be easier for you to explain to him what happened, so the repair will take less time.

The message “burns out” or similar

This usually happens when the sensors believe that the pan set fire to your food (which can also cause damage to the device). Often this means that in the pan there is not enough liquid or that the liquid has not reached all the lower corners of the container (usually there is marking inside), which is easy to fix. It may also be necessary to give the capacitance to cool if you stewed or fried in it for some time on high heat. For more complex dishes, put flour, starch and sauces over other ingredients to create a barrier between them and the lower heater. The raising of meat with a lattice can also help. Finally, if a liquid sauce or a similar ingredient was burned to the bottom of the pan, make sure that the bottom is cleared of sticking pieces before proceeding to the next stage of cooking.

Most display problems are often a direct result of power problems. One of the quick ways to revive the display is to make sure that the power cord is completely connected. Most often, the owners of multicener with a detachment cord face such a problem. Of course, the removable cord, as in the multicooker Moulinex CE 500 E 32, is convenient and safe, but the technique will require a little more attention and control when connecting.

If you have already tried to do this, but the screen still does not turn on, try connecting the device to a separate outlet. If you still fail, then you have to contact the master.

How to act if the cover is removed?

The easiest way to own the models on which the removable cover is provided. In this case, it is enough to do the following:

  • We take a neutral dishwashing gel, soft cloth, warm (but not hot) water.
  • We dilute the gel in water, gently rinse the problem surface with the resulting solution, trying not to affect the place of fasteners and rubber borders. If necessary, you can leave the composition on the lid for a few minutes. It is strictly forbidden to soak the product, this can damage its mounting system.

Tip: the internal parts of the device are usually made of such a material that is easily washed from any type of dirt, even from fat. Only you need to act immediately after using the device. If every time after cooking, wash not only the bowl of the product, but also carefully wipe the inner surface of the lid, the need for its targeted cleaning will not even arise.

  • After achieving the desired result, wash off the soap foam from the surface. It is not recommended to apply gel in its pure form, then it is very difficult to completely remove it!
  • Gently wipe the rubber inserts with a slightly damp cloth without detergent. We dry the part with a towel and put it back on the washed and dried multicooker.

Be sure to make sure that the liquid did not get into the fastener system. Otherwise, this will lead to the accumulation of bacteria and even quick damage to the material in this zone. If this is allowed, you will have to purchase a new device, t.to. restore the old one will not be much cheaper.

What to do with a fixed lid?

To clean the model with a stationary lid, you will have to torment a little. This can be done in one of the following ways:

  • With a steam bath. Pour a glass of water to the bottom of the device, squeeze a slightly fresh lemon juice into the liquid. Close the lid and run the unit for 15 minutes using the “steam” mode. Now the lid can be cleaned. To do this, it is enough to use the dishes for washing the dishes, but in order not to spoil the device, its body will have to wrap the cellophane and turn so that only the lid is subjected to cleaning. Be sure to wash off the foam from the surface and dry the treated areas as a towel as much as possible.
  • With the help of laundry soap. For a more aggressive approach, we need to soap the wet rag with household soap and carefully process the lid, trying not to touch the rest of the parts. After we managed to get rid of fat, we take a clean rag, moisturize and wash off the foam. This approach, although it gives an optimal result, has its minus. it will not be so easy to get rid of the smell of laundry soap.

In the case of extreme pollution, the above approaches can be combined. Even the most old mud cannot resist this.

If the cover was neglected for a long time, then most likely fat will accumulate behind rubber inserts. To remove it, you can use toothpicks or cotton sticks. Only you need to act carefully so that the sides and after processing fit the surface also tightly.

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