What you can tape the drawers in your freezer with

In the freezer compartment of a No Frost refrigerator, ice forms under the drawers

If the walls of your No Frost fridge freeze, check first of all that the door is closed correctly. Maybe the chamber is simply overloaded, as a result of which the door does not fit tightly. It is forbidden to overload the compartments with foods. This reduces the cooling efficiency and results in an increased load on the unit.

The next step is to check the settings of the unit and make sure that the super freezing mode is not activated. In some models, it is activated automatically, it just needs to be turned off.

Instructions for Action

The first and main question that worries the user: will the fridge work, if the freezer is punctured? Of course, it is better not to use appliances with a puncture. it is worth unplugging the appliance and assessing the consequences of unsuccessful defrosting. There are two scenarios in which events will develop:

  • Evaporator ducts are intact. Then only the insulating layer of the compartment is pierced and the refrigerant pipes are untouched. This is the best thing that could happen with a piercing, and the problem can be solved without the help of a professional. You need a low-temperature sealant or something similar. You can also patch the hole with a piece of plastic cut from a yogurt cup, for example.
  • A knife or other sharp object has punctured the refrigerant tube. It’s not the best thing that can happen, but it’s not completely irreparable. Have a repairman fix it. he will quickly restore the integrity of the pipeline.

When you call a handyman, don’t waste your time. do some preparatory work:

  • Unplug the appliance by removing the power cord from the socket.
  • Temporarily seal the puncture place with scotch tape, duct tape or seal it with plasticine. This way you will not allow moisture to penetrate into the system and keep the serviceability of the compressor motor. This is important: even a little moisture will knock the refrigerator out of operation, and repairs may no longer help.
  • Ventilate the kitchen. In fact, modern CFCs are perfectly safe, and cannot constitute a threat to your health. But there are certain brands, such as R600, that are explosive, so venting wouldn’t be out of place.

Having done this, you can safely wait for a specialist and entrust your appliances in his experienced hands.

New stage with the LG GA-B419SQUL refrigerator (Compressor burned out again after warranty repair)

So, 3 months ago someone @Botreps30 Wrote a post in which he described a problem with his LG refrigerator, with a 10-year warranty on the compressor. In brief, after the expiration of the basic warranty (1 year) on the refrigerator, he broke the compressor. He went to the ASC of LG, he was diagnosed and told that the compressor will be free, but for the replacement of the work to be paid 6 000. I then advised him to read the terms of the warranty more carefully and file a claim to the ASC, this advice helped him save money, and he all repaired, free of charge under warranty. Why am I writing all this??! My fridge has a burnt compressor again! SECOND!Let me tell you the timeline! And you’ll be wondering if it’s worth buying this brand of refrigerator!?So, my refrigerator model LG-GA-B419SQUL was bought in DNS. Novokuznetsk 10.02.2019. (If anyone is interested, bought in “Nika” on the advice of a sales consultant named Oleg, the main argument in his work, was Accent to a 10-year warranty and I agreed. FUCK! Don’t do what I did! Read reviews before buying)

First compressor malfunctioned on 19.09.2020, NEW, from the time of purchase, it worked 19 months, and the compressor burned out.

Dying, it had been running for a couple months, very loud. I measured the noise level with the noise meter app on my phone and it reads from 55-60db It’s very loud especially at night when there’s silence around. The week before it died, the compressor did not start the first time. it would start to pick up speed, and before it reached the working speed, it would “click” with a very loud metallic sound, as if someone was hitting the iron table with a hammer. After that, probably the “brains” of the fridge thought that the compressor worked and did not try to restart, so the fridge for a few hours just stood there and the temperature in both chambers was gradually increasing. Finally died, the compressor just stopped working and the fridge “melted”.

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And then a week ago, our miracle fridge, again died to hell, with the same symptoms. The second compressor after the replacement worked for less than 12 months! I did not like it categorically! Again, turning to a hot line LG, during a conversation with the operator, I asked him, “Your company will change my compressor every year, and I’ll think every year, where to put the food from the freezer, and then think where to get new?”to which I didn’t get an intelligible answer. And it is understandable, such as I in support call every day by 100 times! I thought, there is a “Consumer Protection Act”! So I decided to try to resolve the issue with the seller! In paragraph 3 of Article 19, there is such a phrase:

According to this paragraph, having 10-year warranty on the compressor, I have the right to complain to the seller about the defects of the goods, after the expiration of the basic warranty, which is equal to 1 year according to the receipt, and expired by 10.02.2020.According to Art.18 “On Protection of Consumer Rights” I decided to demand a refund of money paid for the goods or an exchange for a similar one, but of a different brand. Sorry, but I will not take the LG refrigerator, even if they pay me more.

So, on the day of the breakdown, immediately after talking to the hotline, I came to the store where I bought my refrigerator and wrote a complaint in which I described the situation and outlined my requirements. Got the stamp of acceptance, the seal of the store, and I went home to solve the problem where to store the fridge while sorting things out with the seller and LG! The DNS store should give me an answer to my complaint next week. I’ll keep you posted! I will write the next post as soon as I get the answer to the claim from the store.

Freezer drawer repair.

Oh, this Indesit, then the washing machine breaks, then in the fridge, the food drawer is all broken. What will they do? Everything needs to be redone.

The front wall is broken. I tried to reanimate the front wall after the first break, I put patches on the cracks and rivets on it. But that transparent plastic is just treacherously brittle, you can’t touch it. Apparently, the manufacturers of Indesit don’t have any idea what people keep in their refrigerators. We should tell them that it’s mostly meat there, not ice cream from the supermarket.

I’m making a new wall. In short, I threw those pieces away. I had to pick up a piece of plywood as a template for the future front wall of the drawer. And what do I do?? It would be nice to have a piece of thick plexiglass, but I don’t have it in my cherished corner! And there is plywood. It’s opaque, but it’s secure.

Cut out the workpiece. A tape measure, a square and a pencil were found, not a problem, so I accurately marked and sawed out the necessary form with a jigsaw.

Grinding the edges. If everything is left as it is, it will be difficult for my hands, and they will all be in splinters. But the belt sander with success leveled all, and then and manually sanded all edges and corners. Now it’s nice and smooth to the touch.

Wall bracing. And here the necessary galvanized angles, and short self-tapping screws, just the right size, and necessary washers were found. It’s neat.

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Additional inserts. I had to install additional strips on both sides, in which screws are inserted. It’s not very straightforward, of course. All right, maybe the wife will not notice.

Finished box. That’s all. Nice and noble. We should send it to the manufacturer of Indesits, maybe they will understand how to make a box for 10 kilos of minced meat. But I won’t send it. Won’t understand. The only thing they have in their fridges at home is ice for cocktails.

Repair of the fridge drawer

The solution came up with the following: I bought Cable ties 2.5 mm. for 40, 2.5 mm drill bit. for eight. I needed an electric screwdriver, wire cutters and pliers. And time, of course. I spent 40 minutes on two boxes. You can see the result in the photo. It turned out very strong: six months flight normal.

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And yes, the idea of fixing the plastic with cable ties is not new, but I think few people have thought to apply the idea here.

The second option for repairing a broken drawer

Acrylic thread, 2mm drill bit, clear epoxy. You can create art in weaving. The result in the photo.

The third option for repairing the broken drawer

I even tried to reanimate the front wall after the first break, there were patches put on the cracks, rivets attached But this plastic transparent just treacherously brittle, you can not touch. Apparently, the Indesit manufacturers have no idea what people keep in their refrigerators. You have to tell them that it’s mostly meat, not ice cream from the market.

Anyway, I threw those pieces away. I had to pick up a piece of plywood as a billet for the future new front wall of the drawer. And what to do? Of course it would be nice to have a piece of thick plexiglass, but I do not have it in my cherished corner! And there is plywood. It may not be transparent, but it’s reliable.

A tape measure, a square and a pencil were not a problem, so I carefully marked everything and sawed out the desired shape with a jigsaw.

If everything is left as it is, the hands will be tight, all will be in splinters. But the belt sander with success aligned everything, and then hand sanded all the edges and corners. Now it’s smooth, nice to the touch.

And we found the necessary galvanized corners, and short self-tapping screws, just the right size, and the necessary washers. It’s neat.

Make It Glide With UHMW Tape

I had to install additional strips on both sides, in which screws are screwed. It’s not very straightforward, of course. Well, maybe my wife won’t notice.

That’s it. Nice and dignified. We should send it to the manufacturer, maybe they will understand how to make a box for 10 kilograms of minced meat. But I won’t. They are hidden in the bar. The only ice they have in the fridge at home is ice for cocktails.

Self-removing and replacing the refrigerator door handle: step by step instructions with photos

The process of removing the handle is quite simple and straightforward, even for beginners. Don’t forget about the safety precautions. be sure to disconnect the appliance from the power grid. After that, wait a couple of minutes and get to work:

  • The knob is held in place by screws, and they’re hidden under the bar. This bar plays the role of a plug. Push it down and pull it up.
  • Do the same with the second bar.
  • Unscrew all the screws and remove the handle with gentle, gradual movements. Don’t make any sudden jerks, you might damage the door. Force may be required only when removing the plastic liner, but pressure should not be applied to the squeezing mechanism at all.
  • After removing the element, it is worth cleaning the surface of the door. You can use any familiar detergent. Be sure to wipe the door dry with a paper towel.
  • Now install the new handle. To do this, align the holes in it with the matching ones on the refrigerator. Screw in the screws and lower the strips.

What to do to restore operation

To repair the damage to the outer layer of the insulation yourself, do as follows:

  • Unplug the refrigerator;
  • With a sharp knife, remove the wet part of the insulating layer;
  • Put normal insulation in place or use assembly foam;
  • After the foam has cured, attach the metal foil on top.

If the crack was formed on the inner wall, you can seal it as follows:

  • Unplug and defrost the appliance;
  • Dry the chamber and degrease the area where the crack is located;
  • apply silicone sealant evenly;
  • Let the sealant dry and connect the refrigerator.

The plastic may have cracked as a result of a factory defect when the nuts are too tight. In this case, you need to contact the store where you bought the equipment.

What to do to get it working again

To repair the damage to the outer layer of insulation yourself, proceed as follows:

  • Unplug the refrigerator;
  • Remove the wet part of the insulating layer with a sharp knife;
  • Put normal insulation in place or use assembly foam;
  • Once the foam has cured, attach metal foil to the top.

If the crack was formed on the inner wall, you can seal it as follows

  • turn off and defrost the appliance;
  • Dry the chamber and degrease the area where the crack is located;
  • Apply silicone sealant evenly;
  • Allow the sealant to dry and connect the refrigerator.
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The plastic could be cracked as a result of a factory defect if the nuts are too tight. In this case, you need to contact the store where the equipment was purchased.

gluing the shelf in the refrigerator

I think many have faced the problem of cracked clear plastic shelves and drawers in the refrigerator. The aesthetic component suffers, but most importantly, functionality suffers.

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Buying new ones is not an option, they may not be available at all or already. You can try to glue.

Shelves are often made of polystyrene, you can tell by the PS badge on the shelf. The question arises, what is the glue.

Several times I tried to glue polystyrene parts with superglue (cyanoacrylate). Glue is bad, it takes a long time. How secure the connection I have not checked, but experience with things glued with cyanoacrylate, suggests the low reliability of such repairs.

A search turned up some model glue, which is designed for gluing polystyrene. I did not have to look for it, bought it in a children’s goods store, 70 per 12 ml. Of course there are other options, like dichloroethane, but I have decided to stop at this one. Here we go.

I do not know how to apply glue when assembling the models, I thought it was appropriate to use a disposable syringe for this purpose. The syringe didn’t melt with the glue.

Poured about 0.2 ml of glue into the syringe for the test. Slightly pressed down on the plunger and passed it over one of the glued surfaces. The glue came out easily, the evenness of the application I did not have good control at first.

The smell is very strong, do not even think about glue in an unventilated area.

After applying the glue, pressed them together. Too much glue came out. I tried to wipe it off with a paper towel. Wiped off, but left traces of glue. There’s a lot of plastic in the glue, so you can see the marks.

The glue set very quickly. I didn’t squeeze it, just let it dry. I could smell the glue after a few hours. I think it is better to wait at least 12 hours at room temperature for a satisfactory evaporation of toluene and ether.

After getting some experience, I continued with the repair. The drawer is next.

It turns out that with some skill the glue with the needle can be applied quite evenly in a thin layer, dragging the needle across the surface of the plastic. With this application, the excess glue hardly comes out of the seam.

This time the glue also seized quickly, I did not keep the piece pressed down.

It was not very straight, but there is no point in getting perfect results here.

Those who have done superglue, know that it has very little surface tension, it spreads well over the surface, there is not even the tiniest hole where it does not flow.

The model glue I used does not have that property of flowing into all the cracks. So I put it on the cracks that I could see, but I don’t think it did a very good job of preventing them from growing.

After 12 hours the shelf and drawer were washed with hot water and soap and took their place

Trying to understand why the drawers break, I came to the conclusion that the fault is not only the user’s careless attitude to the fragile plastic parts. The problem is in the construction. For example, my refrigerator has two vegetable drawers on the bottom of the main compartment. When you slide them in, they forcefully bang their tops against the front edge of the glass shelf, while the drawer tends to keep moving. In the end it broke in the place where the load was applied. There are two solutions. Either raise the shelf, or attach something soft to the back of the drawer or the compartment itself. The foam is no good here, but a piece of insulating “foam”, I think, will be just fine. It’s the same for the other problem areas. Before gluing, eliminate the causes of cracking, otherwise the repair will turn into a monkey’s work.

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