Which machine to put on the hob

Which machine to put on an electric stove with an oven a single.Phase network for 220 in

Electric stoves have long been in our use, but, unfortunately, not everyone knows how to connect them.So, if you have purchased one of these plates and are going to connect it yourself, this article will help you with this. In it, we, step by step, will try to explain how to do it competently, and most importantly safely!

It is also worth noting that although electric stoves are considered domestic, they consume a sufficiently greater power. This should be taken into account both during installation and in the further operation of heating electrical appliances in everyday life.

Before installing, carefully read the MA instructions for the installation instructions. If some points have doubted you, it is better to entrust the installation of a qualified electrician. Remember that the warranty of the manufacturer’s factory does not apply if an electric stove is connected with violation of the rules and norms for the installation of electrical equipment.

We offer to consider how to choose the right components for installation: cable, fork, outlet, circuit breaker. Connect an electric stove and oven to a single.Phase, two.Phase, three.Phase power supply network with a voltage of 220 and 380 volts with your own hands.

Connection of an electric stove 380 volts | Glory to the creators of an automatic machine with an underestimated number of amperes is able to become source of nervous stress, de.Energizing the house or individual rooms when the electric kettle is turned on, iron or vacuum cleaner. Ask, I’m in touch!

Features of connection

Electric oven and hobs belong to energy.Intensive household appliances, so they are suitable for connecting these devices with all responsibility.

Regardless of whether the oven is installed autonomously or in a bunch with the hob, the connection is carried out only subject to the following conditions:

• Good condition of the wiring. Pre.Assess the condition of the wiring. Ideally, energy.Intensive equipment is connected to the selected power lines.
• Sufficient cross.Section of the conductors. In most cases, a cable with a cross section of cores is used to power the slab and oven: in a single.Phase network. 36 mm² (consists of 3 cores, each with a cross section of 6 mm²), in three.Phase. 54 mm² (consists of 5 cores, each with a section of 4 mm²).
• The presence of a circuit breaker on the line. The device is important for de.Energizing equipment in an emergency.

If these conditions are not met, they lay a new track from the shield to the installation site of the equipment with an automatic circuit breaker of a suitable face value.

Selection of a circuit breaker on the current and load power circuit

To select a suitable machine, it is convenient to calculate the current strength per kilowatt of the load power and make the corresponding table. Applying formula (2) and power coefficient 0.95 for voltage 220 V, we get:

Given that the voltage in our electric networks often does not reach the set 220 V, it is quite correct to take a value of 5 A per 1 kW of power. Then the table of the dependence of the current strength on the load will look in table 1, as follows:

This table gives an approximate assessment of the power of alternating current flowing through a single.Phase electric network when the household electrical appliances are turned on. It should be remembered that this refers to the peak power consumption, and not the average. This information can be found in the documentation attached to the electrical product. In practice, it is more convenient to use a table of maximum loads, taking into account the fact that machine guns are available with a certain value of current (table 2):

For example, if you need to find out how much ampere you need an automaton for a power of 15 kW at a three.Phase current, then we look for the nearest more value in the table. It is 16.5 kW, which corresponds to the machine for 25 amperes.

In reality, there are restrictions on the released power. In particular, in modern city apartment buildings with an electric stove, the allocated capacity is from 10 to 12 kilowatts, and at the entrance an automatic machine is placed at 50 A. It is reasonable to divide this power into groups, taking into account the fact that the most powerful devices are concentrated in the kitchen and in the bathroom. Each group has its own machine, which allows to exclude the complete de.Energization of the apartment in case of overload on one of the lines.

In particular, it is advisable to make a separate input under the electric stove (or hob) and install an automaton on 32 or 40 amperes (depending on the power of the plate and oven), as well as a power outlet with the corresponding nominal current. Other consumers should not be connected to this group. A separate fishing line for a trimmer should have both a washing machine and the air conditioner. For them there will be enough assault rifle for 25 A.

When asked how many sockets can be connected to one machine, you can answer one phrase: as much as you like. Rosettes themselves do not consume electricity, that is, they do not create a load on the network. It is only necessary to make sure that the total power of the simultaneously included electrical appliances corresponds to the cross.Section of the wire and the power of the machine, which will be discussed below.

For a private house or cottage, an introductory machine is selected depending on the selected power. Not all owners manage to get the desired amount of kilowatts, especially in regions with disabilities of electric networks. But in any case, as for city apartments, the principle of dividing consumers into separate groups is preserved.

Choosing a device

In order for the protective machine to work, it is chosen taking into account the type of network (single.Phase or three.Phase), such as the room and the type of equipment.

For a single.Phase network (220 V), the machines of one and two.Pole are distinguished. Only 1 conductor is connected to single.Pole. Phase, to the two.Pole. Phase and zero. Single.Pole machines are placed on circuits 220 in internal lighting, on the outlet groups in rooms with conventional operating conditions.

For three.Phase networks (380 V), three- and four.Pole devices are distinguished. These circuit breakers are placed on the lines, to which all 3 phases are brought: for example, an electric stove, a three.Phase hob, oven, oven.

For other household appliances, there are enough two.Pole protection machines. They must turn off the phase and neutral.

Attention! The main rule of choosing a protective machine: the device should work until the current exceeds the possibility of electrical wiring. From this it follows that the current value of the machine should be less than the maximum current that withstands the wiring.

The choice of automation for the oven and the hob is as follows. Suppose an electric stove has a maximum connection power of 7 kW (this digit is indicated in the technical documentation for the device). Power is divided into voltage network: 7000 W/220 B = 31.8 A. Add 20% of the reserve: 31.8 A 20% = 38.1 A.

The circuit breaker select the face value that is closest to the resulting figure. In this case, the face value is 32 amperes.

Difavtomat

There is another potential threat in domestic electric networks that the circuit breaker cannot cope with. These are differential currents that can lead to a person’s defeat with electricity or fire. Such risks are warned by the difavtomat.

Reference. The difavtomat combines the protective functions of the machine and the protective shutdown (RCD). The case of the device is more compact, which is important if there is little space in the electrical panel.

Difavtomat for the hob and oven are chosen as follows. The value of the rated current is taken per step higher than for the machine. For example, if for an automaton it is 32 A, then for Dif. 40 A. Another important indicator is the sensitivity of the operation. For the hob, the indicator of 30 mA is optimal.

Where to install sockets under the hob and oven cabinet

There are no special requirements here. This is usually the basement of the kitchen and the height of the installation 10 cm (upper edge of the outlet). If the oven is mounted above the level of the table, then it is also desirable to make a socket nearby.

General rule! Do not put sockets and auxiliary equipment directly behind the equipment. Otherwise, you can get a problem. An oven or dishwasher will elapse and will not stand in its place. The same applies to other communications. They need to be displayed either next to the equipment or below its level, if the installation of equipment is planned over the floor.

Hidden installation or external

This is your choice as more convenient. The only rule is that external electrical wiring is performed in a wooden house, and all devices are installed the same. This is a requirement of electrical safety, since the tree is a combustible material and hiding wires and other sources of fire is strictly prohibited. This, by the way, applies to kitchen furniture. If you need to install a socket for the oven, and a cabinet is planned nearby, then cut a hole in the back wall and mount everything in a wall or on a wall, but not on a closet!

In the case of concrete or brick walls, you can use both options for installing an outlet for an electric stove. In terms of security, the hidden installation is preferable. But if the repair period has long been completed, external installation with the help of cable channels will also fit. When installing, exclude the contact of the wires with combustible materials such as wood, in.Depressed plastics.

Remember. You can not lay a separate wire for grounding, grounding a socket for risers or pipes. You cannot connect other kitchen devices to the power circuit of the slab or oven. It is life.Threatening.

How to connect an oven to a power supply correctly. What wire and assault machine need?

To connect the oven with a maximum power of not more than 3.5 kW, you must have the following materials in stock:

3-residential cable VVGNG-LS 32.5mm2

ordinary euro.Rosette at 16a, with contacts under the grounding conductor

Fork at 16A. It is preferably angular in order to take less space between the posterior wall of the kitchen and the wall of the kitchen room.

Diffavtomat on 16a, or RCD of Diffavtomat

The oven of an electric cabinet should always be connected through its separate machine. He can stand either in the distribution or in the immediate vicinity of the electrical appliance (more on that below).

If you have an apartment at the repair stage, then start working with strokes of the walls and laying the VVGNG-LS 32.5 cable from the electrical panel to the future outlet. If the repair is already made, then the cable can be laid in a plastic channel or a decorative skirting board without spoiling the wallpaper.

Many have a question, whether it is possible to connect an electric oven from an existing ordinary outlet, which was previously installed in the kitchen for a teapot, microwave, etc.P.?

It is possible, the main thing is that 3 conditions are met at the same time:

the oven should be a power of not more than 3.5 kW

The outlet is connected by a three.Core copper cable from the shield with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm22

In electrical panel, replace a regular machine with a thermal release with a differential machine with a nominal current of not more than 16A

When replacing a single machine for sockets with differential 16a and connecting the oven through it, it will not be possible to use other electrical appliances while the oven works and food is prepared.

Here you will already have to make a choice yourself, or in favor of savings (not to lay out new wiring, a separate outlet, etc.D.), or in favor of comfort and convenience. Leave in the shield an ordinary modular machine without protection from leakage currents, when connecting an oven to an old outlet, is not recommended.

The height of the installation of a new outlet under the oven should be no more than 90 cm from the floor. Although it is also not rarely put at the level of the legs of the kitchen.

The most important thing here is the convenience of operation. By safety precautions, with wet cleaning and wiping the oven with a wet rag, it must be disconnected from the mains.

And climbing every time to the bottom of the kitchen to pull the fork is not always convenient. In addition, here you need to take into account such possible situations as leakage of water and flooding of the kitchen. Therefore, 5-10cm above the floor, the outlet should still be raised.

Another moment in safety precautions when installing a socket: if a gas supply passes nearby, for example, on a hob (let’s say it is gas rather than electric), then the outlet should be at least 60 cm from it at a distance.

When the outlet was determined with the location of the socket, it is necessary to connect it.

The phase and zero core of the cable connect to the extreme contacts of the outlet. At the same time, it does not matter where the phase will be located, and where zero is on the right or on the left. The grounding core (yellow-green) connect to the ground terminal (usually average).

Put in place a frame or decorative cover.

If the oven goes with a factory fork, then it may not be collapsible, but whole cast. And then her cutting offers the loss of guarantee, be careful in this matter.

And guessing the manufacturer which fork where you need, is simply not profitable.

You clean the wire from the oven, criminalize the NShV tips and pass through the plug body. Phase and zero (usually the conductors of gray = brown and blue colors) Plant the plugs of the extreme contacts.

Again, no matter where what, phasing here is not important here. Yellow-green grounding core-for average contact. So that the wire does not dangle inside, fix it with a pushing clamp and twist the plug body.

Important remark: when connecting wires to a fork, never orientate only by the colors of the insulation of the veins. Be sure to unscrew the cover of the terminal pad on email.The oven and check where what kind of wiring is started (the correct connection to the terminals is said below).

Когда по какой-то причине нет доступа к клеммам, или там стоит гарантийная пломба, используйте обычный китайский тестер-мультиметр. Grounding core should be connected to the oven body.

And therefore, when the probes are connected in the insulation measurement mode to the wow and to the body, the sound signal should be heard or zero is displayed on the display. That is, the resistance r = 0 ohm. Thus you will find the “Earth”, the remaining two wires will be a phase and zero.

When connecting ovens with a capacity of more than 3.5 kW (as a rule, a microwave is still built in them), several other materials are needed:

Connection in the mains is carried out through a powerful outlet 32a.

In fact, all installation is similar to connecting the hob panel. How to do this, in detail with step.By.Step drawings and photos can be read in the article “Connection of the hob”.

Consider in more detail the connection of the connecting wire directly to the oven cabinet.

Unscrew the protective panel behind and bring to the contacts the PVS 36 wire. There is a hole for this from below.

The insulation is removed from the veins and the tips of NSHV are crimped. Next, the connection itself is performed:

Phase vein (gray or brown) start under the terminal with the letter “l”

Features of connection

Electric oven and hobs belong to energy.Intensive household appliances, so they are suitable for connecting these devices with all responsibility.

Regardless of whether the oven is installed autonomously or in a bunch with the hob, the connection is carried out only subject to the following conditions:

• Good condition of the wiring. Pre.Assess the condition of the wiring. Ideally, energy.Intensive equipment is connected to the selected power lines.
• Sufficient cross.Section of the conductors. In most cases, a cable with a cross section of cores is used to power the slab and oven: in a single.Phase network. 36 mm² (consists of 3 cores, each with a cross section of 6 mm²), in three.Phase. 54 mm² (consists of 5 cores, each with a section of 4 mm²).
• The presence of a circuit breaker on the line. The device is important for de.Energizing equipment in an emergency.

If these conditions are not met, they lay a new track from the shield to the installation site of the equipment with an automatic circuit breaker of a suitable face value.

Connection of the oven (oven) to the mains

When buying powerful household appliances, the question inevitably arises about its installation and connection. You can, of course, trust the master, but the connection of the oven is cost 25. And this is if there is already a wiring. That is, in order to include in the outlet, install in place, fasten to the ends of the kitchen cabinet. If you need to pull the wiring, the cost of work increases significantly. Therefore, many are thinking about doing everything on their own.

DIY overshielding requires the knowledge of some rules. We will talk consistently about everything. Thinking through the nuances, the first thing to do is evaluate the state of the current wiring and find out its section. If the wiring was laid recently, made according to all the rules, a 2.5 mm cable goes to the outlet group and it costs an assault rifle for 16 A (or more), you can connect any oven using a network cord, fork and outlet. Everything is really simple, but there are disadvantages:

• During the operation of the oven, it is impossible to include some powerful technique in the same outlet group-it will knock out the machine gun.
• Periodically, you will have to change the melted outlets, since they are not calculated for long.Term passing of significant currents.

If you agree with this, the connection of the oven is really very simple: installed, fixed, turned on.

Laying wiring for connecting household appliances preferably at the repair stage

It is undesirable to connect a solid load on the old wires, but if the wiring condition is normal, it is three.Wire with a normally working ground, this is possible. To check the state of insulation, we measure the insulation resistance of the cores. Do this with a megommeter. In accordance with the norms (at least 0.5 MOM), the oven can be connected. One important point: the cross section of the wire should be at least 2.5 mm 2 (copper), and an automatic machine is installed (16 a) is installed.

Cross.Section of the veins and nominal machine gun

If you have to pull a new fishing line for a trimmer, first you need to decide on the cross.Section of the cable veins. On average, the maximum power consumption of ovens consumed is 3-3.8 kW. But these are peak loads in which the equipment works very rarely. In normal mode, consumption is rarely more than 2 kW.

However, correctly calculate the wiring for maximum consumption. For cables with copper veins, the recommended section is 2.5 mm 2. Automatic. At 16 A. This is with a solid supply of power (recommended load up to 5.9 kW), but these are the recommendations of almost all manufacturers and only under such conditions they retain their warranty obligations.

Another nuance: all modern household appliances are designed for grounding. Therefore, the cables use three.Core. For laying in a house or apartment, you can use VVGng, VVGNGLS and its other non.Combustible varieties. NYM is also suitable. These cables are optimal in terms of price/quality ratio. Three.Sting will be needed. 32.5. Only when choosing, measure the diameter of the wire and calculate the section. Too many manufacturers began to make veins thinner than stated. Therefore, control is required.

When installing more powerful ovens. With built.In steam generators. It is recommended to use cables with a section of wires 4 mm 2. A machine is placed on a trimmer fishing line for 25 A.

In general, the connection of the oven to electricity with the recommendations for the cable used and the laborers of protective equipment (machine guns) is described in detail in the product passport. And it is better to listen to the recommendations of the manufacturer. They are not interested in breaking their own products and issue recommendations with a margin of strength.

RCD. Is it necessary or not

In addition to an automatic protective switch on the oven, it is recommended to install an RCD. The machine protects the fishing line for a trimmer from overheating and from short.Circuit currents. At the same time, he is not able to protect against breakdown to the case, and this is a real danger. That is why it is recommended to put a bunch of RCD AB or difavtomat (a device in which all functions are combined). Then, with the breakdown of isolation on the case or in case of accidental touch to the phase, no one will suffer.

Scheme for connecting an oven with an RCD

The choice of the face value of the RCD is simple: a step above the machine gun. If on the line there is an automatic machine for 16 A, the RCD should be at 25 A. Also you need to choose a leakage current. For highlighted lines, this is 10 mA.

Methods of laying wiring

In general, it is customary to lay the wiring secretly. In plaster or strobes. But this is dusty and destructive work that leaves noticeable traces. Well, if you can easily fix the wallpaper or repainting the walls. If not, you have to use other ways of laying the cable.

The first way is to lay in cable channels. These are plastic or metal boxes in which cables are laid. They are screwed to the walls and have removable lids. The aesthetics of such a solution is controversial. In some cases, just an outstretched cable attracts less attention. Another thing is that on combustible grounds (wooden walls or ceilings) it is necessary to pull it in the corrugation and this is definitely noticeable. In general, the option is possible, but not very beautiful.

Laying in the cable channel and special skirting boards

The second way is to stretch the fishing line for a trimmer in special skirting boards. They are higher and wider than usual, but the wire can be covered secretly, it is protected from mechanical damage and the aesthetics of this solution at the height. In addition, it is performed easily, without dust and special problems.

Hob and oven.

Good day. Tell. How to connect a hob and a remote oven correctly.

The wire will be extended from the shield into the kitchen with a separate contour, charm, section 4k. (220, one phase)

Brig wrote: How to connect a hob and a remote oven correctly.

The hob is connected directly from the shield through the machine gun 32-40A cable with copper residential 3×6.0. The oven is connected, as a rule, by a separate line of 3×2.5 through an ordinary household outlet with ZK, which is protected by a gun 16A.

Thanks a lot. I apologize described. It is not 4k, but named 3×6. And 3×2.5 is not enough? Will not bask at full power? After all, there are about 3 kwatt.

And further. I can put this separate fishing line for a trimmer of the oven on the machine gun of the kitchen (it is just 16a.) or necessarily separate?

Brig wrote: I can put this separate fishing line for a trimmer of the oven on a roseter of the kitchen (it is just 16a.)

You can include your oven in any outlet, but the work of other devices in this group during the operation of the oven will not always be successful. The automatic machine is possible.

I did this. Correct or not? Before connecting, the forum and tips read from the 3×6 shield. Hob 3×4 PVS oven. There was a regular one, in appearance 3×2.5.

B@tu. Naturally wrong. Substruction of the PVS on the hob below the normative 3×6. The wire on the oven should be protected by automatic 16a. However, it will work. Before the fire. At your peril.

About the cable. Hob. 7KV in case of maximum consumption. Honestly, I do not really imagine the situation of such a need. But let’s say. Here “here” here “here” here: “Here” here “and here”

The machine gun on the hob and on the oven is general, I don’t remember the face value. But we are talking about a new building with a knowingly correct (hope) option. Discussion like my option here “although contradictory. I did not understand what the risk of connecting in my case. Clarify please.

By the way, it is curious, and with what connectors are now equipped with panels and oven? I looked at how it was connected. It is clear but it is clear that there is no outlet, also a terminal. There are photos indicating that there is a terminal on the hob itself. So you can just pull the wire out of the wall without any sockets? Actually I have an object. An apartment, and I am interested in what to put on a stove. You can wait with the connectors themselves, but whether the sockets are needed? One or two (oven panel)? This issue must be resolved now.

B@tu you brought a lot of links, but the conclusion was not true. On a single.Phase plate (dependent hob. Oven) cable 3×6, this is a requirement of standards. If independent, two options:

I see you understand. Then answer: what is the fundamental difference in the general terminal (like mine) and

Finally, what is the potential danger of my connection?

One.Why is the 3×4 wire not sufficient to connect cooking if it withstands the 7 kV with a noticeable margin that I need?

2.What is the difference between the set of “dependent VPED” and “Independent VP Independent ED”. All their constructive difference that the mechanism of control of independent is carried out outside the oven. While, consumption/load of individual heating elements of the same. At the same time, you suffer that: dependent VPED (in total ok. 10 sq) wire 3×6 independent (in the amount of the same ok. 10kv) wire 3x63x2.5 = 3×8.5 (!)

• It is logical that the main danger of connecting. A low-power device (ED, 2.5 kV) through an automaton by 35a is that it simply will not work if the permissible current is exceeded with some kind of breakdown (not a short circuit!) and the device will fail. Then, sorry for the stupid question, how this situation is fundamentally different from the “hanging” of the same ED in the built.In kit or for a stationary stove?

• 3×4 is enough, but below the regulatory requirement 3×6.
• You can come up with yourself as many justification. It just won’t comply with the norm.
• After 1-2 months, the screw terminal will “weaken” and it will have to be pulled up.

Evgenygrig wrote: after 1-2 months, the screw terminal will “weaken” and it will have to be pulled up.

2b@tu is now far from the computer, so briefly. Basically, the answer is given to you.

• The requirement of standards is a single.Phase plate. 3×6, why. To the authors.
• With independent VP and ED, look at them as separate devices with your own inputs. 3×6 cable can be divided (since there is no desire to conduct an independent group), but the cross section on ED should correspond to the protection machine in this group. But in this case, you deprive the defense of Ed, and the cable to it under protection

And where to find such machines. Who? For example, the line has a line: 32a, 40a, 50a, 63a. And all. Otherwise I myself would not hurt me. The customer has a hob at 7.1 kW, this is 32.27A it turns out. Automat 32a I think it will be at the limit and it can knock it out.

Sonic wrote: I think will be at the limit and can be knocked out.

Put 40A and do not rack your head. It is enough to protect 6 copper squares.

Sonic wrote:. And where to find such machines.

, Rather, an error, and in the square. I wanted to write 32. And in truth (today checked) it stands at all on an automatic machine, and a 25a RCD from builders. This seems not enough for 10 kW?

Avmal wrote: Put 40A and do not rack your head. It is enough to protect 6 copper squares.

Could you explain. I thought that the ropar of the machine gun depends on consumers, and not on the cable.

B@tu wrote: Could you explain. I thought that the ropar of the machine gun depends on consumers, and not on the cable.

The machine is placed to protect the cable.

B@tu wrote: stands at all on an automaton, and an RCD 25A from builders

Whatever I do not carry, I take a picture of the counter. I think you will understand. By the way, there are also questions.